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What Focal Length For Basketball
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TGM1234
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I now use Canon’s new f/1.4 on a FF. I used to use a 135/2.
I stay away from any 2.8 lenses (e.g. 70-200) as I prefer keeping my ISO below 3200.
ScooterShooter
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85mm is a good prime to use, though I use a 70-200mm as well. One benefit of the 85 is you can get a relatively inexpensive f/1.8.
garykohs
Veteran Member
I shoot most often with an 85/1.8, but there are a lot of variables. If you're shooting in a major college or professional gym, you'll probably want to go wider to get some of the glorious background.
The big problem with an 85 is that in a typical high school gym the perfect angle on the bucket puts the referee between you and it for half the possessions. 135 is better for covering guard play up the floor but it will put you in the corners for action at the bucket. So when I'm shooting one I move around a lot, which means I'm not sitting so the angles aren't as dramatic.
50-70mm means you can be right in the middle of the floor, which gives the the best angle on most shots and usually eliminates the refs. However, it's a dangerous place to be for you, your camera and the players.
The big problem with an 85 is that in a typical high school gym the perfect angle on the bucket puts the referee between you and it for half the possessions. 135 is better for covering guard play up the floor but it will put you in the corners for action at the bucket. So when I'm shooting one I move around a lot, which means I'm not sitting so the angles aren't as dramatic.
50-70mm means you can be right in the middle of the floor, which gives the the best angle on most shots and usually eliminates the refs. However, it's a dangerous place to be for you, your camera and the players.
Thanks for the replies. I forgot to mention I shoot M 4/3 so based on responses so far, the 90 equivalent 1.8 might be a good choice. I’ve got a 80-300 equivalent 2.8 but getting into higher ISO with this one when I set the shutter speed high enough to feeeze action.
garykohs
Veteran Member
We could tell that you're shooting M 4/3 from your gear list. I think you're on the right track. If there's something like a 30/1/4 that might be even better.
ZurichPhoto
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If I could only carry one lens for basketball it would be an 85MM 1.8, or the equivalent thereof (i.e. Sigma 50-100MM 1.8)
Lighting in most non pro/D1 gyms is so bad that unless your have stellar equipment, you are going to fight with and lose to high ISO. You can tame it at 1.8 generally
And if you have unrestricted access, just shoot one end of the court on defense and the other three on offense. You'll be more than close enough.
And always do a custom white balance in every gym you shoot. To me that's just as important than the lens.
Lighting in most non pro/D1 gyms is so bad that unless your have stellar equipment, you are going to fight with and lose to high ISO. You can tame it at 1.8 generally
And if you have unrestricted access, just shoot one end of the court on defense and the other three on offense. You'll be more than close enough.
And always do a custom white balance in every gym you shoot. To me that's just as important than the lens.
Going to give it shot tomorrow with my 45 1.8 which is 90 eq. I’ll report back and post a couple if I get some decent shots. Thanks to everyone for the advice.
dad_of_four
Veteran Member
If you study the movement of the referees, they are actually pretty predictable.
They are always on opposite sidelines. The trailing referee will come past half-court. The leading referee will come all the way down to the baseline and hook around roughly at the intersection of the baseline and the free-throw lane.
As each play starts, you can predict where the referee will be, and give yourself time to move to the other side of the freethrow lane. The you don't need to worry about the ref blocking your shot, or getting in their way.
p.s. All the refs I've ever encountered enjoy having their picture taken during a time-out.
Even if you do nothing about it, they feel good that you thought enough of them to take a pic.
They are always on opposite sidelines. The trailing referee will come past half-court. The leading referee will come all the way down to the baseline and hook around roughly at the intersection of the baseline and the free-throw lane.
As each play starts, you can predict where the referee will be, and give yourself time to move to the other side of the freethrow lane. The you don't need to worry about the ref blocking your shot, or getting in their way.
p.s. All the refs I've ever encountered enjoy having their picture taken during a time-out.
Even if you do nothing about it, they feel good that you thought enough of them to take a pic.
ZurichPhoto
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A few thoughts .... and some are based on guesses looking at the pictures,. So I apologize if these guesses are off....
1) You are absolutely going to miss focus in basketball photography. That's a given. The question is what is your baseline on focus accuracy and how does this particular lens/camera combo compare.
2) Was it all missed focus or was some motion blur? At 1/500th you will get quite a few soft shots. No question about it. Looks like you can push that ISO a it in favor of 640 or 800.
4) It's ok to shoot landscape mode. By going landscape you get a good sense of the game developing on the court -- you can see the play developing. Portrait is great for player isolation but it can get repetitious. Shoot at least one quarter -- or two -- in landscape.
5) You seem to be directly under the net and possibly standing. That's a tough spot. I've attached a chart here with some angles you may want to consider. With a 90MM, you are really going to want to be on those corners and low.
5) Put yourself in position of the viewer -- shoot with variety in mind! Shoot the "go team" signs on the wall. Throw in a coach picture. Always make a picture of the final score on the board and the scorer's book. You aren't covering basketball you are covering an event. The color and texture are important. Keep your head on a swivel!
1) You are absolutely going to miss focus in basketball photography. That's a given. The question is what is your baseline on focus accuracy and how does this particular lens/camera combo compare.
2) Was it all missed focus or was some motion blur? At 1/500th you will get quite a few soft shots. No question about it. Looks like you can push that ISO a it in favor of 640 or 800.
4) It's ok to shoot landscape mode. By going landscape you get a good sense of the game developing on the court -- you can see the play developing. Portrait is great for player isolation but it can get repetitious. Shoot at least one quarter -- or two -- in landscape.
5) You seem to be directly under the net and possibly standing. That's a tough spot. I've attached a chart here with some angles you may want to consider. With a 90MM, you are really going to want to be on those corners and low.
5) Put yourself in position of the viewer -- shoot with variety in mind! Shoot the "go team" signs on the wall. Throw in a coach picture. Always make a picture of the final score on the board and the scorer's book. You aren't covering basketball you are covering an event. The color and texture are important. Keep your head on a swivel!
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