Z-Cam E1 notes, tips, feedback

Just noticed on a Z-CAM E1 Facebook page a post suggesting one can purchase spare batteries and a desktop charger on this website .
Need to get on a computer that translates - but as a rough guide we might be talking AUD$15-20 for battery and AUD$20-25 for charger (plus freight?). AUD$1 is about US$ 78 cents. Plus exchange “margin” of course.

This seems more hopeful than IZugar.

The little video is impressive as well - how many camera to you need to get that 3-D effect?

But it would seem that we have not heard the end of Z-Cam if they could ever get their product to market to sell at more mass-market level pricing.

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Tom Caldwell
 
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None of my FourThirds lenses, on an Olympus MMF-3 adapter, will focus at all. The camera switches to manual focus mode with one mounted and you cannot change that. MF doesn't work either, the focusing ring on the lens does nothing. Even the CDAF-compatible Olympus 14-54mm f/2,8-3,5 II will not focus.
 
Has anyone tried the alternate setting for the buttons for what they must be useful for:

Fn

Setting (default) Alternatives: MF Assistant, EV, Iris, Focus Area, Wi-Fi

[These are all virtually short cuts but I am worried about the loss of the very necessary Setting function if I change it to something else]

Power Button

None (default) Alternatives LCD off, MF Assistant, Switch Mode,

[I have changed this to MF Assistant for the moment but this button seems a better candidate for an extra function as on/off is a long press and the selected over-ride function is a shot press. If I used “Switch Mode” then the Mode button would be only useful for long press (playback)]

The Mode butotn does not seem to have alternate assignements and therefore presmably would remain functional to “Switch Mode”.

I have tried “Automatic Level” = On but it tends to overwhelm the screen - I have turned it off again until I get more used to the camera.
 
Yes, I have "MF assist" on the power button and since I shoot in Aperture Priority 90% of the time, I have set the Fn button to "Iris".

[ATTACH alt="I get to "Setting" through the "Menu" button."]1794694[/ATTACH]
I get to "Setting" through the "Menu" button.

I have the feeling that the electronic level gets more sensitive the closer to horizontal the camera is.

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Ragnar
 

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I found these on GitHub.

Build your own apps: SDK document for Z camera.
There's also a description of the I/O connector.

OpenFrameworks addon to use the API of the Z Camera model E1

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Ragnar
Thanks Ragnar - this might go into my “when I get some spare time” locker.

I hope some others actually having some spare time and the talent to go with it can produce some extra useful features.
I have one of those lockers too... :-(
But in reality the camera already has all the most essential features required and uses its limited control strctures very intelligently and sweetly.
I use flash a lot and that's a feature I would like to have. I have no idea if it's feasible or not, but nevertheless I have ordered a couple of plugs for the I/O connector. We'll see if I can come up with something.
... dabblers to dabble.
Hey, I resemble that remark!

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Ragnar
 
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There is something about exploring a new thing where you truly get to know it by pushing it to the boundary line.

Like trying the Metabones adapted Sigma DC 4.5mm f2.8 circular fisheye. Not so much as a common lens but the Metabones adapter interfaces any EF mount lenses well with the standard M4/3 mount system bodies.

I already knew that this lens works brilliantly with any Olympus/Panasonic body.

Tried it again with a GM5

Switch on - practically instantaneous - Set to 1:1 capture (easy), point camera at subject - AF quick and accurate (first shutter press) - EV was pre-set to -2/3 - leave it there as it is working well and self sorting out DR - f5.6 - maybe the shutter could have been faster, but the ISO adjusts easily to shoot both indoors available light and outdoors (bright light today) - EV copes well, no need to fiddle. Oh, battery expires gracefully in the middle of the test - no worries I have a spare already charged - insert, place dead battery on charger and keep going. Ready for next shot immediately - great buffer no fuss.

Z-Cam experience

Switch on - waiting, waiting, top screen icon shows - we know we have life - shortly afterwards lcd staggers into view. Only shoots 4:3 - no options. Point camera at subject - has DR problems with EV needing to be optimised for different lighting conditions - dark foreground partly backit and bright background send EV and DR into a tither - but it can be compensated for - just needs a little work. Press shutter - AF struggles then fails. Try the up-down buttons for capture - up (focus) needs a couple of tries but will auto focus most subjects (use patience) - moving focus ring on lens will auto magnify lcd screen into MF assist mode and over-ride AF focus attempt (useful), press down button (capture) capture made. I had set jpg + dng and it takes longer to record. But it is possible to keep capturing more shots while the record light keeps winking away. Battery flat? - no it did not happen, but if it had then I would have had the spare of course but recharging would have to wait until I could connect camera to a power source and then it would have to be a sequential in-camera re-charging effort (in mobile use down time).

I suspect that all chipped M4/3 mount lenses will work nomally. But adapted EF lenses might be more hit or miss. I cannot say that the Sigma lens I tried was an abject failure but it certainly did not work as well on the Z E1 as well as Olympus or Panasonic bodies. The Canon EF 50/1.2 worked quite well on the Z E1 when adapted with an Ultra but needed a bit of EV setting fiddling to image well (which it could do).

Not that adapting EF lenses to a Z E1 is a normal thing that users would be expected to do but my trial exposes where the limits might lie in a torture test.

I have yet to try adapting a “normal” dumb lens to it - that might be my next project :)

I am not trying to damage the Z E1 cameras credibility - I still think that it is an interesting camera that needs respect. I am only seeing where the boundaries lie. It may pip the GM series camera in the video area. Its boxy format might also suit video more - it certainly does not help make it more pleasant to use as a stills camera. In fact the GM1 might be wider but it is also considerably slimmer. When the displaced volume is compared I suggest that there is very little in it. The Z E1 might be a fraction less volume but I am not about to put either into a bucket of water to test out the Archimedes factor.

Nor would I recommend the Z E1 to those that found the GM1 difficult to grip or those that complained about “the wheel”.

Once I find the use-boundaries I will use mine within these boundaries and be happy.
 
Just tried the Z-E1 with my favorite old Jupiter-11 135mm f4.0 lens.

Here putting the MF Assist function on to a “quick” press of the off/on button proved to be useful - no need to go to this function via the Menu - and screen magnification can be applied easily at will. Still had to fiddle with the EV for differing light conditions but this was not a huge bother. The Menu system seems to remember the last adjusted function.

Basically (with A mode in play) set desired aperture on the lens, invoke MF assist (if necessary) - adjust EV if it looks stupid, focus, press the shutter button - capture made - a whole lot quicker to save if you are not also saving DNG.

Use of dumb MF lenses quite achievable.

Cannot really check for good focus with no playback magnification available, but from what I can see the results are ok.
 
Also I'm having problems figuring out how to set the highest frame rate available in 720P video mode. Supposedly one can shoot 240fps at that resolution but I can't seem to find that setting. Perhaps somebody can enlighten me.
The available frame rates are different depending on the chosen video system.
I'm in Sweden, so of course I chose PAL. But then I only have 25 and 50 fps available.
I switched to NTSC and the 24, 30, 60, 120 and 240 frame rates became available, but 25 and 50 were gone.
 
I'll add some comments here about things I have run into.

I'm using an older android phone and have the following issues so far (not to say they can't be remedied, just haven't figured out how yet):

The android version of the Z cam app will only play back (gallery) videos and pictures over wifi..not over bluetooth.

The app will not give me a live preview of what the camera is capturing (via BT or Wifi). I am only using MF lenses on it so far, so perhaps that has something to do with it? I.e. it wouldn't be able to do the selectable/touch two-focus point thing with these lenses.

The camera gets pretty warm (whether using the app or not, even just sitting there doing nothing but powered on).

I'll keep dabbling and update this thread with findings. Let me know if anyone else has the live preview showing on their android phone while using manual focus lenses
 
Yes, I have "MF assist" on the power button and since I shoot in Aperture Priority 90% of the time, I have set the Fn button to "Iris".

[ATTACH alt="I get to "Setting" through the "Menu" button."]1794694[/ATTACH]
I get to "Setting" through the "Menu" button.

I have the feeling that the electronic level gets more sensitive the closer to horizontal the camera is.

--
Ragnar
Ragnar,

I think that I have just about plumbed the depths of what I need to know about this camera. I don’t really need to know much more unless we can find some more undocumented tricks - like magnifying the playback screen or changing the crop ratio.

I will switch on the electronic level back on again soon.

The camera is probably a good one for video and may even be an option for drone work for the brave who might venture their expensive lenses of choice on it.

It might also be very good for remote shooting needs - something I have yet to explore.

Lens wise it would be best to stick to oem M4/3 lenses or LTM/LM adapted MF lenses.

Using adapted MF “slr” or even EF lenses might be interesting for a little while but if you really had to do this - then use a regular Olympus/Panasonic body.

Why the superfine jpg images are notceably smaller than what the GM series produces is odd. Is it really using a 16mp sensor or is it something smaller?

Now if I can just figure out how to make a mount for my VEfinder device for the Z-E1 I could have a faux optical viewfinder off the lcd as well :)

--
Tom Caldwell
 
The camera is probably a good one for video and may even be an option for drone work for the brave who might venture their expensive lenses of choice on it.
Like you, I'm mainly a stills shooter. But I must confess that this little thing has piqued my interest in video and I'll likely delve deeper into it.
It might also be very good for remote shooting needs - something I have yet to explore.
In a couple of months, I'll be shooting a horse jumping competition. The shooting will be "slightly" remote, at times I'll have a camera on a tall monopod. With the camera at the end of a long stick, every gram counts. I think the Z cam will do nicely.
Lens wise it would be best to stick to oem M4/3 lenses or LTM/LM adapted MF lenses.

Using adapted MF “slr” or even EF lenses might be interesting for a little while but if you really had to do this - then use a regular Olympus/Panasonic body.
How about enlarger lenses? ;-)

Rodenstock Apo Rodagon N 50/2.8
Rodenstock Apo Rodagon N 50/2.8

I've just started digitizing a large stack of documents - mostly maps and architect's drawings - and I've found this lens excellent for the task.
Why the superfine jpg images are notceably smaller than what the GM series produces is odd. Is it really using a 16mp sensor or is it something smaller?
The Z cam compresses the files more. JPEG compression has "Quality" levels from 0 to 100. Super Fine JPGs from my Olympus E-M1 are saved with Q=100, with a file size at 9 - 10 MB. The Z saves its Super Fines with Q=98. Ever so slightly lower quality, but the file size shrinks quite a lot.
Now if I can just figure out how to make a mount for my VEfinder device for the Z-E1 I could have a faux optical viewfinder off the lcd as well :)
I've just told my dear wife that I really, really need that 3D printer :-D

--
Ragnar
 
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The camera is probably a good one for video and may even be an option for drone work for the brave who might venture their expensive lenses of choice on it.
Like you, I'm mainly a stills shooter. But I must confess that this little thing has piqued my interest in video and I'll likely delve deeper into it.
It might also be very good for remote shooting needs - something I have yet to explore.
In a couple of months, I'll be shooting a horse jumping competition. The shooting will be "slightly" remote, at times I'll have a camera on a tall monopod. With the camera at the end of a long stick, every gram counts. I think the Z cam will do nicely.
I think so as well. Years ago I used a Ricoh GRD on a light monopod - set the self timer and raised the pole and pointed in the general direction. Helped perspective considerably but of course was not that accurate as it was unsighted. This was all “before WiFi apps”. Since then I have always been “going” to resurrect the idea. I even made a bracket to hold a compact tablet computer on the foot of the monopod so that I could hoist and use the remote at the same time. Sadly I never got around to using it. Must find it again as the idea was a good one.

The quick and dirty self timer idea can still work but would be better with a tlt screen so that some more accurate idea of framing could be used.
Lens wise it would be best to stick to oem M4/3 lenses or LTM/LM adapted MF lenses.

Using adapted MF “slr” or even EF lenses might be interesting for a little while but if you really had to do this - then use a regular Olympus/Panasonic body.
How about enlarger lenses? ;-)

Rodenstock Apo Rodagon N 50/2.8
Rodenstock Apo Rodagon N 50/2.8

I've just started digitizing a large stack of documents - mostly maps and architect's drawings - and I've found this lens excellent for the task.
I bought a cheap copying stand (made for digital cameras) which I can use with any camera/lens. But it is restricted to the size of docments that can be fitted under it.
Why the superfine jpg images are notceably smaller than what the GM series produces is odd. Is it really using a 16mp sensor or is it something smaller?
The Z cam compresses the files more. JPEG compression has "Quality" levels from 0 to 100. Super Fine JPGs from my Olympus E-M1 are saved with Q=100, with a file size at 9 - 10 MB. The Z saves its Super Fines with Q=98. Ever so slightly lower quality, but the file size shrinks quite a lot.
Ah! That explains it. Thanks for that insight. Noteworthy is that most cameras have various resolution jpg iimages and that the Z-E1 superfine is not as superfine as the rest :)

I should have known as I am well aware that that jpg that is too large to email can suddenly be much easier at 90% size compression.

Notably the superfine jpg only takes a couple blinks to record but the jpg + dng has it blinking away for a while. But this does not seem to stop further captures - must be a sort of FIFO buffer and a hold over from fast video recording.
Now if I can just figure out how to make a mount for my VEfinder device for the Z-E1 I could have a faux optical viewfinder off the lcd as well :)
I've just told my dear wife that I really, really need that 3D printer :-D
I have one but I have to master the CAD side to get what I want. It has been sitting there winking at me for quite a while now. I have some mechnaical drawing basics and have programmed some serious end product so I am sure that “I can do it” but again it is a “time” thing and requires more than a couple of hours of concentration In sessions.

We live in a wonderful climate and we don’t get seasons where we are bored and completely house-bound. Even when it does rain - it usually pours for a few days and then “everything is forgiven and we are back in sunshine as if the rain had not happened. Besides I have acres to look after and also “so many interests” that I don’t know how I ever managed before I retired.

I should have taken up golf - then it would be easy - what do i do today? Play more golf ... :)

Oh, I had a little milling machine which I left in the corner of the workshop for quite a while. Then I decided to learn how to use it. I made myself these VEfinder “thingies” which effecively are a lens on a “stick” attached by a rare earth magnet and can make the lcd into a usable evf. I have mounts for the Ricoh GXR/GR the Pentax Q and the Panasonic GM1.

I have figured out how I can make one for the Z-E1 - I just have to get motivated to do it.

My milling was improving last time I did it. But whilst the machine is small but capable it is the old fashioned one that involves a lot of winding wheels and arcane measurements and counting. Good fun but very slow if mentally stimulating. One has a new respect for those machinists who made camera gear to high tolerance levels before computerisation.
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Ragnar


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Tom Caldwell
 
I hope that we can keep this thread alive for long enough to at least basically explore what the Z-E1 can do.

I have been quite blunt at what I see as shortcomings but there is no use trying to paper over faults - but I do find the camera interesting and worthy of trying to master it warts and all. I contrast this with my interest in the very popular and no doubt effective Sony A7R which drove me quite crazy with its arcane human interface to the point that some years later I have still never used it seriously. The Z-E1 on the other hand has its own issues but the simple and very effective interface is not one of them.

Unfortunately as forums go the M4/3 forum (quite reasonably) is interested in the new and high performing and as easy to use as possible. Any sign of trouble, difficulties and a helping hand might be offered but with no wide knowledge of this camera I fear that few can help and nobody is going to buy one of these odd little beasts simply to become a Good Samaritan. Banging ones head against a wall is not a necessary condition of membership :)

Even the (now becoming rehabilitated) GM1 was punished by its “small size” and “the wheel” that nobody really wished to know about. And the GM1 is actually a fairly sophisticated camera by comparison with the Z-E1 and effectively they are both the same volume even if their shapes are different.

One of the hardest things to figure out about the Z-E1 is just what it is supposed to do.

It seems that a remotely controlled camera is one of them. It is less suited to being a hand-held stills camera from lack of wrist strap mounting points and its square not entirely friendly to the hand body shape.

I note that the external mount lugs favoured by the M4/3 manufactrers - even for tiny bodies are very passe. Think Ricoh which for many years has incorporated recesses in the body mouldings where straps can be attached without lug protrusions.

Lack of magnified playback to check a capture is an issue but I have found that the captured images generally look better than their playback on camera (lcd resolution issue). But that does not excuse the problem - merely highlighting a “click and pray” situation that is simply “not quite as bad” as it was in the days of film.
I'll add some comments here about things I have run into.

I'm using an older android phone and have the following issues so far (not to say they can't be remedied, just haven't figured out how yet):

The android version of the Z cam app will only play back (gallery) videos and pictures over wifi..not over bluetooth.

The app will not give me a live preview of what the camera is capturing (via BT or Wifi). I am only using MF lenses on it so far, so perhaps that has something to do with it? I.e. it wouldn't be able to do the selectable/touch two-focus point thing with these lenses.

The camera gets pretty warm (whether using the app or not, even just sitting there doing nothing but powered on).
I have seen this criticism in several places - it does get warm. I have also read that it has a magnesium chassis which can act as a heat sink. So perhaps the “warm” is simply the chassis transferring heat to the outer casing. It has not become uncomfortable on my copy to my experience.
I'll keep dabbling and update this thread with findings. Let me know if anyone else has the live preview showing on their android phone while using manual focus lenses
Please do as I don’t think that what the camera can do has been fully explored as yet. As I don’t “do” video it is good that we get some feedback regarding the video capability.
 
Has anyone processed DNG capture still images from the Z-E1 yet?

I hope to find the time to check this shortly.

Capturing JPG + DNG take much longer to store, but does not seem to affect repeat shots as far as I can see. No doubt the bffer could be filled though.
 
Has anyone processed DNG capture still images from the Z-E1 yet?

I hope to find the time to check this shortly.

Capturing JPG + DNG take much longer to store, but does not seem to affect repeat shots as far as I can see. No doubt the bffer could be filled though.

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Tom Caldwell
There is a search capability in this forum... :)

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/60468131

This has examples of jpegs made from DNG raw stills using Lightroom defaults. And the shooting was in Zlog.
 
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Seems like one can select between small and large size focus area in photo mode but only the large one is available in video mode.

Or am I missing something?
Can confirm large/small and multi-point in still photography but have not tried video.
 

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