Best way to get rid of mirror vibration when using Bracket mode with the D810?

When using a remote release and the bracketing mode can I also use MUP and 3 second delay?

Thanks!
Sure why not. And set the electronic shutter option while you're at it.
 
No need to set M-up.

Use the Custom Setting Menu/ shooting display and set to 3s delay.

On shutter press the mirror comes up waits 3 seconds then the shutter releases.
 
If you did want to use Electronic Front-Curtain as "onetruepath" suggested, the D810 has to be in M-up mode.
 
In other words to get the benefit of EFCS and MUP I would indeed need to use the 3 second delay mode.... If you just release the shutter in MUP mode the D810 waits a full 30 seconds before releasing the shutter.
What I do is set mirror up mode on the left top dial, set Electronic front curtain in the menu (d5 in shooting menu), and use a remote. First press does metering (including pre-flash if you have flash enabled), raises the mirror and opens the shutter, then you wait until you are happy vibration has stopped, second press takes the photo 'electronically', ie it zeroes the sensor readout, waits 'shutter time', and closes the shutter. No need for the d4 delay mode if you are using a remote.
 
No need to set M-up.

Use the Custom Setting Menu/ shooting display and set to 3s delay.

On shutter press the mirror comes up waits 3 seconds then the shutter releases.
Is this possible on a D800 also?

Thank you
 
No need to set M-up.

Use the Custom Setting Menu/ shooting display and set to 3s delay.

On shutter press the mirror comes up waits 3 seconds then the shutter releases.
Is this possible on a D800 also?
Yes, exposure delay and Mup are both available, and both of them raise the mirror before releasing the shutter. Do either of those and use a good tripod and you are good to go.

And just to be clear: anything related to electronic first curtain shutter is not relevant to the D800 because that particular feature does not happen to exist in it.
 
What I do is set mirror up mode on the left top dial, set Electronic front curtain in the menu (d5 in shooting menu), and use a remote. First press does metering (including pre-flash if you have flash enabled), raises the mirror and opens the shutter, then you wait until you are happy vibration has stopped, second press takes the photo 'electronically', ie it zeroes the sensor readout, waits 'shutter time', and closes the shutter. No need for the d4 delay mode if you are using a remote.
This is what I also do to get rid of vibration. Very straight forward.

The only other thing I add is if I'm going thru all the above, I'll probably be in Live View also. Might as well get the focus sharp while I'm at it.
 
What I do is set mirror up mode on the left top dial, set Electronic front curtain in the menu (d5 in shooting menu), and use a remote. First press does metering (including pre-flash if you have flash enabled), raises the mirror and opens the shutter, then you wait until you are happy vibration has stopped, second press takes the photo 'electronically', ie it zeroes the sensor readout, waits 'shutter time', and closes the shutter. No need for the d4 delay mode if you are using a remote.
This is what I also do to get rid of vibration. Very straight forward.

The only other thing I add is if I'm going thru all the above, I'll probably be in Live View also. Might as well get the focus sharp while I'm at it.
Bearing in mind that you lose electronic shutter if you do, unless you switch back out of LV before taking the shot. I do this as well if focus is tricky.

Why did Nikon disable Electronic front curtain in LV mode?

Nobody knows...
 
What I do is set mirror up mode on the left top dial, set Electronic front curtain in the menu (d5 in shooting menu), and use a remote. First press does metering (including pre-flash if you have flash enabled), raises the mirror and opens the shutter, then you wait until you are happy vibration has stopped, second press takes the photo 'electronically', ie it zeroes the sensor readout, waits 'shutter time', and closes the shutter. No need for the d4 delay mode if you are using a remote.
This is what I also do to get rid of vibration. Very straight forward.

The only other thing I add is if I'm going thru all the above, I'll probably be in Live View also. Might as well get the focus sharp while I'm at it.
Bearing in mind that you lose electronic shutter if you do, unless you switch back out of LV before taking the shot. I do this as well if focus is tricky.

Why did Nikon disable Electronic front curtain in LV mode?

Nobody knows...
THat is not true. EFC works as it should in LV. But you have to be in Mup release mode. Does not work on other release modes.

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In other words to get the benefit of EFCS and MUP I would indeed need to use the 3 second delay mode.... If you just release the shutter in MUP mode the D810 waits a full 30 seconds before releasing the shutter.
THat is not correct. Are you releasing the shutter twice? First for the mirror up/sensor state and the second for the actual exposure.
 
When using a remote release and the bracketing mode can I also use MUP and 3 second delay?

Thanks!
Firstly, you want to get rid of shutter vibration as well as mirror vibration. The best way to do this is with EFC (d5) set to on, LV, MuP and yes there is SOME logic to a 3 second delay. These are the steps the mirror, sensor and shutter are undertaking in this configuration when the shutter is released and you can see there is no mechanical vibration introduced by the camera whatsoever:

1. Mirror is up, mechanical shutter is open so sensor is exposed.

2. First press of the shutter does nothing visible (mechanical) but probably changes the sensor state in some way.

3. Second press of the shutter starts the 3 second delay timer after which the exposure starts electronically. No mechanical movement (assuming you are using remote shutter release) is involved in starting the exposure this way therefore no possibility of camera induced image softening.

4. The exposure ends by a mechanical closing of the shutter and the sensor offloads its data. The shutter has moved causing some vibration but since the exposure has already ended there is no possibility of camera induced image softening.

5. The shutter opens again ready for the next exposure. This is where the 3 second delay timer MAY have some merit. Because in opening for the next exposure, the shutter will introduce some degree of vibration. If you commence the next exposure in the the bracket sequence too soon after the shutter has re-opened, there may be residual shutter vibration still present which could impact this next exposure. Frankly though I doubt it. Especially since you need the time to press the shutter twice. Personally I would suggest that the 3 second delay is of real benefit only when you are not using a remote release. But it can do no harm.
 
In other words to get the benefit of EFCS and MUP I would indeed need to use the 3 second delay mode.... If you just release the shutter in MUP mode the D810 waits a full 30 seconds before releasing the shutter.
What I do is set mirror up mode on the left top dial, set Electronic front curtain in the menu (d5 in shooting menu), and use a remote. First press does metering (including pre-flash if you have flash enabled), raises the mirror and opens the shutter, then you wait until you are happy vibration has stopped, second press takes the photo 'electronically', ie it zeroes the sensor readout, waits 'shutter time', and closes the shutter. No need for the d4 delay mode if you are using a remote.
I broadly concur with this method except that I prefer to use LV as it eliminates the mirror movement completely during a bracketing sequence. EFC works fine in LV as long as you are in Mup release mode.
 
What I do is set mirror up mode on the left top dial, set Electronic front curtain in the menu (d5 in shooting menu), and use a remote. First press does metering (including pre-flash if you have flash enabled), raises the mirror and opens the shutter, then you wait until you are happy vibration has stopped, second press takes the photo 'electronically', ie it zeroes the sensor readout, waits 'shutter time', and closes the shutter. No need for the d4 delay mode if you are using a remote.
This is what I also do to get rid of vibration. Very straight forward.

The only other thing I add is if I'm going thru all the above, I'll probably be in Live View also. Might as well get the focus sharp while I'm at it.
Bearing in mind that you lose electronic shutter if you do, unless you switch back out of LV before taking the shot. I do this as well if focus is tricky.

Why did Nikon disable Electronic front curtain in LV mode?

Nobody knows...
THat is not true. EFC works as it should in LV. But you have to be in Mup release mode. Does not work on other release modes.
Ah yes you are correct. It's strange to click the remote twice and have absolutely no reaction from the camera, until you hear a faint click as the shutter closes five seconds after the second click. This is with a 5-second exposure of course.

I assume the first click does metering and nothing else except a piece of code that says "check if mirror up and shutter open... already up... do nothing... set flag to say ready for second click"

The second click presumably just zeroes the sensor and starts the exposure timer.

What Nikon didn't do which they could have, is allow EFC and shutter delay to be set, then without using mirror up mode, a single click could start the whole process and end up a few seconds later without bothering to click again. This could then be used in interval timer mode for example.
 
2. First press of the shutter does nothing visible (mechanical) but probably changes the sensor state in some way.
This is the point at which the camera meters, so I presume it examines the data stream from the sensor which is currently going to the LV display to get metering info. The LV display goes black also so the LV video feed is switched off preparatory to waiting 'exposure delay'. Whether the camera gets enough metering info from the LV feed up to that point I don't know... it might do another check by zeroing and then reading the sensor... I doubt it though. If you set 'exposure delay' to zero then this would introduce an unexplained delay.
 
What I do is set mirror up mode on the left top dial, set Electronic front curtain in the menu (d5 in shooting menu), and use a remote. First press does metering (including pre-flash if you have flash enabled), raises the mirror and opens the shutter, then you wait until you are happy vibration has stopped, second press takes the photo 'electronically', ie it zeroes the sensor readout, waits 'shutter time', and closes the shutter. No need for the d4 delay mode if you are using a remote.
This is what I also do to get rid of vibration. Very straight forward.

The only other thing I add is if I'm going thru all the above, I'll probably be in Live View also. Might as well get the focus sharp while I'm at it.
Bearing in mind that you lose electronic shutter if you do, unless you switch back out of LV before taking the shot. I do this as well if focus is tricky.

Why did Nikon disable Electronic front curtain in LV mode?

Nobody knows...
THat is not true. EFC works as it should in LV. But you have to be in Mup release mode. Does not work on other release modes.
Ah yes you are correct. It's strange to click the remote twice and have absolutely no reaction from the camera, until you hear a faint click as the shutter closes five seconds after the second click. This is with a 5-second exposure of course.

I assume the first click does metering and nothing else except a piece of code that says "check if mirror up and shutter open... already up... do nothing... set flag to say ready for second click"

The second click presumably just zeroes the sensor and starts the exposure timer.

What Nikon didn't do which they could have, is allow EFC and shutter delay to be set, then without using mirror up mode, a single click could start the whole process and end up a few seconds later without bothering to click again. This could then be used in interval timer mode for example.
Yes, that would be a far better implementation. Perhaps Nikon will release a firmware update introducing it.
 
Just to reemphasize, the ONLY way to get EFC to work, whether you're in LV or not, is to be in Mup mode.
 

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