DR Modes: The Truth and Nothing but the Truth - long post

nixda

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There is often confusion among beginners, and even among some of those with more experience with Fuji cameras and photography in general, about what the DR expansion modes do and how they do it.

The most widespread belief and the typical answer for “what do the DR modes do?” is: “they change the exposure”

Even DPR’s Richard Butler writes: The DR100% mode is comparable to the way any other camera treats ISO. But when you switch to DR200%, the camera halves the exposure (which you'll see as a jump in the lowest available ISO setting) but leaves hardware amplification the same, brightening the image later while incorporating that extra stop of highlight information (essentially using a flatter JPEG tone curve). DR400% does this again: another 1EV drop in exposure without a change in amplification, to protect an extra stop of highlight information.

(https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-pro2/6)

But is that really true?

To find out, let’s start with a very simple experiment:

Experiment 1
Set your camera to ISO800, DR100, choose an aperture, and half-press the shutter button for the camera to determine the exposure time. Note the exposure time. Then, leaving everything else the same, switch to DR200 and half-press the shutter button. Note the exposure time. Finally, repeat for DR400.

You will see that the exposure time is always the same, and since aperture is constant as well, exposure is constant.

Invoking DR200 or DR400 does not change the exposure!

Now that that is debunked, what actually happens when the DR modes are engaged?

Let’s go one step back. The auto-exposure system on a camera is designed to balance exposure with the final, desired image brightness through amplification of the signal. Say, the target image brightness is that of middle gray; given a certain exposure, the system will adjust amplification through the ISO setting so that, ultimately, an image with the target brightness is generated. Most commonly, exposure is controlled by aperture and exposure time. Thus, we have that “triangle” of aperture, exposure time and ISO that must be balanced to give the target image brightness.

Note, the term originally coined by Bryan Peterson for this triangle is Photographic Triangle. Unfortunately, someone, somewhere, somehow made a mistake and used the term “exposure triangle”, and even more unfortunately, that term stuck, causing endless confusion and misunderstandings among photographers. But that is a discussion for some other time.

So, let’s do another simple experiment, one that you have probably already done countless times:

Experiment 2
Set your camera to ISO200, DR100, choose an aperture, and half-press the shutter button for the camera to determine the exposure time. Note the exposure time. Then, leaving everything else the same, switch to ISO400 and half-press the shutter button. Note the exposure time. Finally, repeat for DR800.

You will see that the exposure times will decrease as the ISO increases, or in other words, the exposure will decrease with increasing ISO. That is the Photographic Triangle at work. When the exposure gets lower, the amount of amplification needs to be increased to maintain the target image brightness. Or the other way around: if one pre-sets increasing amounts of amplification upfront, the exposure will need to decrease to maintain the target image brightness.

So, we know that the ISO setting relates to the amplification of the captured signal. But we are dealing with digital cameras, and it turns out that there are two basic types of amplification: analog amplification and digital amplification. Analog amplification, in a nutshell, amplifies the signal (and noise) electronically before the conversion to digital numbers by the analog-to-digital converter (ADC). These digital numbers can typically be captured in form of “raw data” written to a “raw file”. The second type of amplification, digital amplification, acts on these numbers, simply by multiplication, and it happens anywhere along the image processing pipeline, from applying a constant multiplication factor to all numbers, applying different multiplication factors to the numbers by applying a tone curve, etc, even through adjusting the brightness of a monitor that is used to display the image.

It is important to point out that the ISO setting in the camera specifies the total amount of amplification applied to the captured signal, the sum of analog and digital amplification.

With that out of the way, we can take a closer look at what happened when we changed the DR setting in experiment 1 above. We know that ISO stayed constant throughout the experiment, thus the total amount of amplification stayed constant as well. But when we look at the raw data, we’ll see that the recorded intensities in fact decrease with increasing DR setting. If you want examine the raw data yourself, you’ll need a special tool, such as RawDigger (welcome, Iliah ;-) So, from all that we conclude that changing the DR setting changes the amount of analog amplification: DR200 reduces the amount of analog amplification by 1EV, DR400 reduces the amount of analog amplification by 2EV. However, since the total amount of amplification, specified by the ISO setting, hasn’t changed, the amount of digital amplification needs to increased by 1EV (for DR200) and by 2EV, respectively, for DR400. More on how that is done later.

Now we know what the DR modes do:

The DR settings, for a given ISO and a given exposure, change the relative amounts of analog and digital amplification while maintaining the total amount of amplification as specified by the ISO setting.

There is an interesting upshot to all of this: as mentioned already, exposure is typically adjusted through aperture and exposure time, but the third major parameter, scene luminance, is also in play. We can affect scene luminance, for example, with a flash or by mounting ND filters. And we know that the ISO setting refers to both analog and digital amplification. So, we now have five parameters that are under our control and that can be balanced to achieve a desired image brightness. The Photographic Triangle has become a Photographic Pentagon!

So then, where does the widespread notion come from that the DR settings change exposure? That notion is the result of an assumption that isn’t always valid, and it is a result of a misunderstanding of cause and effect.

The assumption is that the reference for what the DR modes do is ISO200. At ISO200, with a certain exposure set, the amount of analog amplification is already minimum. It cannot be lowered further. So, if we want to use a DR mode, we need to first go up in ISO by at least 1EV (for DR200) or at least 2EV (for DR400). As we have seen, the ISO setting specifies the total amount of amplification; raising the ISO increases the amplification, and in order to keep the Photographic Pentagon balanced, we need to reduce exposure. Therefore, it is easy to conclude that changing DR changes the exposure. But it is in fact the change in ISO that changes the exposure. As we’ve seen above, DR has no effect on exposure when ISO does not change.

Why is it important to point out that it is not DR that changes the exposure, but that it is a change in ISO when such a change is required as a consequence of a change in DR? It’s not semantics. Understanding this point helps understanding why the DR modes are so interesting.

The practical purpose of the DR modes is to reduce the chances of clipping.

Again, one step back: As a good approximation, clipping can occur at three stages:
  1. the sensor receives more light than it can accurately and precisely respond to
  2. analog amplification exceeds the range of the ADC
  3. digital amplification exceeds what a given data format can specify
Explanation:
  1. This type of clipping is sensor clipping: the only way to reduce sensor clipping is by reducing exposure.
  2. This type of clipping is the result of analog amplification. The sensor capacity may not have been exceeded, but subsequent analog amplification of the readout exceeds the capacity of the ADC: this is where the DR modes come in. For the JPEG shooter, they provide a unique way of addressing this type of clipping while maintaining the overall image brightness. It cannot be achieved in any other way.
  3. This type of clipping is a result of digital amplification: applying less brightening, using different tone curves, and even decreasing the monitor brightness will address this type of clipping.
Now, let’s look at two typical scenarios for using the DR modes, and we are looking at them from the point of view of the JPEG shooter, i.e., someone who wants to walk away with an SOOC file that encodes an image with proper brightness:
  • We sit at ISO200, and we have dialed in the exposure, but we are afraid that important highlights might get clipped. At ISO200, the amount of analog amplification is already minimum, so we know that any clipping here is likely caused by either over-exposure of the sensor or by too much digital amplification. If we assume that the JPEG engine won’t blow out highlights on its own (not a really good assumption), then we can conclude that clipping here is a result from too much light falling onto the sensor. We can simply reduce the exposure (by means of EC compensation) and not get any clipping, without ever invoking the DR modes. Or we can invoke the DR modes, which will then require to raise the ISO, which in turn will reduce the exposure to maintain image brightness. Same effect. The drawback of this approach, though, is that the DR modes work in 1EV increments. Often, much smaller adjustments are sufficient to make sure the sensor isn’t over-exposed, thus small EC adjustments are probably preferable, rather than using the DR modes.
  • We sit at a higher ISO, say ISO800, which typically happens when there is rather little light, e.g., in indoor scenarios. The AE system has determined some exposure setting, but we are afraid that important highlights are going to be clipped. Very likely, the sensor isn’t saturated in this scenario, so we know the culprit isn’t sensor clipping. It is likely clipping caused by the analog amplification stage and/or clipping caused by the digital amplification stage. Using the DR modes, we can now reduce the amount of clipping due to analog amplification and then push in post (automatically, if your raw converter of choice recognizes the DR flag) to compensate. That, in my opinion, is a much more appropriate scenario than scenario 1. But mind you, scenario 2 emerges practically automatically from scenario 1 as soon as we change the ISO.
But wait! you might say. If I reduce analog amplification by 1EV and then boost it again afterwards digitally by 1EV, won’t I get clipping again? Yes, you probably would. But here is the rub: the DR modes don’t make up for reduced analog amplification by “mindlessly” adding 1EV to every intensity. Instead, a tone curve is applied that is different from the normal tone curve that is used with DR100. The modified tone curve applies more amplification to the shadow regions than it does to the highlight regions. Overall, the total amount of amplification, on average, is still preserved, according to the ISO setting, but how the amplification is applied to specific intensities is different, compared to DR100. It’s similar to pseudo-HDR.

IMO, the approach that the DR modes represent is very smart. There is no other way for the JPEG shooter to affect something (analog amplification) that they would not normally think of adjusting. And it is the only way to address this point of potential clipping in the image-generation pipeline.

To conclude, what are the DR Expansion Modes called this way?
As we have seen, the DR modes reduce the amount of analog amplification. The amount of analog amplification also determines the DR of the sensor. The DR is largest at the lowest amount of analog amplification (typically that specified by the base-ISO setting) and it then decreases with increasing amounts of analog amplification. At a given ISO setting, reducing the amount of analog amplification through use of the DR modes increases the DR compared to DR100. But keep in mind that the DR can never exceed that of the base-ISO setting.
 
where does the widespread notion come from that the DR settings change exposure?
From the widespread use of the word exposure to mean image brightness. DR200 gives an image that is one stop darker than DR100. DR400 gives an image that is two stops darker than DR100.
 
where does the widespread notion come from that the DR settings change exposure?
From the widespread use of the word exposure to mean image brightness. DR200 gives an image that is one stop darker than DR100. DR400 gives an image that is two stops darker than DR100.
Really?

The raw intensities are half for DR200 compared to DR100, and they are half for DR400 compared to DR200. But the average brightness of the OOC-JPEG is roughly the same.
 
Right now, I leave DR and WB on auto because I feel the camera does a better job at setting either than I would. But I read a recent article on another forum that said it's better to leave DR on 100 and forget about it. Any thoughts on that?

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Right now, I leave DR and WB on auto because I feel the camera does a better job at setting either than I would. But I read a recent article on another forum that said it's better to leave DR on 100 and forget about it. Any thoughts on that?
Better for what? The DR modes provide a unique way for the JPEG shooter to address one point where clipping often occurs, namely at the point of hardware amplification. There is no other way to accomplish this. I think it is therefore beneficial to use the DR modes, and AutoDR is a good approach, particularly when combined with AutoISO.
 
Thanks for your advice. It's appreciated and you obviously did a lot of research on this.
 
As a JPEG shooter I agree auto DR is a great feature. IMHO it's the only way to set DR - the camera will always know the limitations of its sensor better than I in any given situation and be quicker and more accurate in applying, or not applying the required mode.

What I don't understand (and have commented on before) is why my X-Pro1 is able to apply the full range of DR100, 200 or 400 automatically in Auto DR, correctly in my view, but my X-E2 cannot and is limited to 100 or 200 only. I'd much rather trust the application of DR 400 to the camera, rather than have to set it manually and then inevitably end up using it when it's not required, or forgetting to use it when it is.
 
As a JPEG shooter I agree auto DR is a great feature. IMHO it's the only way to set DR - the camera will always know the limitations of its sensor better than I in any given situation and be quicker and more accurate in applying, or not applying the required mode.

What I don't understand (and have commented on before) is why my X-Pro1 is able to apply the full range of DR100, 200 or 400 automatically in Auto DR, correctly in my view, but my X-E2 cannot and is limited to 100 or 200 only. I'd much rather trust the application of DR 400 to the camera, rather than have to set it manually and then inevitably end up using it when it's not required, or forgetting to use it when it is.
Fuji's ways are mysterious sometimes. Besides restricting the maximum DR, it is also not clear why the DR modes work in increments of 1 stop. That is a pretty big increment, and it's not always necessary. Smaller increments and letting the user define the maximum DR mode for AutoDR would be good features to have.
 
What are your views on using DR expansion modes when shooting RAW and processing in LightRoom? Sensible, a waste of time, or harmful?
 
What are your views on using DR expansion modes when shooting RAW and processing in LightRoom? Sensible, a waste of time, or harmful?
It depends on how much of a raw shooter you are.

If you shoot raw+jpeg with the intent to walk away with a usable SOOC-Jpeg every now and then, then you'll probably expose for JPEG, in which case the DR expansion modes will be quite useful.

If, on the other hand you shoot raw with ETTR, it's better to take full control: adjust the amount of hardware (analog) amplification through the ISO setting, then apply the tone curve in post to your liking.

The DR expansion modes work in increments of 1EV, which is often way too much. As a raw shooter you would have much finer control.
 
As a JPEG shooter I agree auto DR is a great feature. IMHO it's the only way to set DR - the camera will always know the limitations of its sensor better than I in any given situation and be quicker and more accurate in applying, or not applying the required mode.

What I don't understand (and have commented on before) is why my X-Pro1 is able to apply the full range of DR100, 200 or 400 automatically in Auto DR, correctly in my view, but my X-E2 cannot and is limited to 100 or 200 only. I'd much rather trust the application of DR 400 to the camera, rather than have to set it manually and then inevitably end up using it when it's not required, or forgetting to use it when it is.
Do you need to shoot in an ISO of at least 400 for the auto DR to work? Put another way, if you set ISO 200 and auto DR, will the camera automatically move to ISO 400 if it determines that a DR setting of 200 is needed?
 
As a JPEG shooter I agree auto DR is a great feature. IMHO it's the only way to set DR - the camera will always know the limitations of its sensor better than I in any given situation and be quicker and more accurate in applying, or not applying the required mode.

What I don't understand (and have commented on before) is why my X-Pro1 is able to apply the full range of DR100, 200 or 400 automatically in Auto DR, correctly in my view, but my X-E2 cannot and is limited to 100 or 200 only. I'd much rather trust the application of DR 400 to the camera, rather than have to set it manually and then inevitably end up using it when it's not required, or forgetting to use it when it is.
Do you need to shoot in an ISO of at least 400 for the auto DR to work?
Yes.

The ISO setting specifies the amount of total amplification, and with it, the amount of analog amplification. DR overrides that setting to some extent, in that it reduces the amount of analog amplification (and increases the amount of digital amplification to keep the total amount of amplification the same). At base ISO (200), analog amplification is already at the minimum. Therefore, in order to use a DR mode, ISO needs to be set higher.
Put another way, if you set ISO 200 and auto DR, will the camera automatically move to ISO 400 if it determines that a DR setting of 200 is needed?
No. If you set ISO200 explicitly, that's what you get. The camera will not overrule something that's set explicitly. You need to set ISO to 400, or use an AutoISO mode, in conjunction with AutoDR, in which case the camera will adjust the ISO. Using AutoISO has the advantage that the camera has access to ISO200/DR100 when it thinks it's ok. The auto-exposure system is designed such that, at ISO200, it will maximize the exposure (amount of light falling onto the sensor). If you set your ISO to 400, you will always get a lower exposure.
 
If you are reading through this thread, you may come across my using the term 'digital amplification'.

I am no longer using that term after being educated by electrical engineers who feel very strongly about this topic.

The term 'digital amplification' refers to the method of brightening images by manipulating digital numbers, e.g., raising an sRGB value of 116 to 200. Amplification, however, refers to (analog) amplification of a signal, which typically is a voltage.

Please replace, in your heads, any occurrence of the term 'digital amplification' with 'scaling/mapping/mathematical manipulation/etc., whatever you prefer.

But don't use 'digital amplification'. Don't want to tick off any electrical engineers ;-) I took the hits for you guys!
 
Kudos to Nixda!

Great info to help me understand my X-T20 better but also ISO in general.

Thanks for your time.
 
Very interesting and informative post, thank you.
 
If you are reading through this thread, you may come across my using the term 'digital amplification'.

I am no longer using that term after being educated by electrical engineers who feel very strongly about this topic.

The term 'digital amplification' refers to the method of brightening images by manipulating digital numbers, e.g., raising an sRGB value of 116 to 200. Amplification, however, refers to (analog) amplification of a signal, which typically is a voltage.

Please replace, in your heads, any occurrence of the term 'digital amplification' with 'scaling/mapping/mathematical manipulation/etc., whatever you prefer.

But don't use 'digital amplification'. Don't want to tick off any electrical engineers ;-) I took the hits for you guys!
In the industrie the term digital is sometimes used in such combinations.

For example Zeiss uses the term "digital gain" for digital enhancement of signal from photon multiplayer tubes (or other detectors), such as in their laser scanning microscopes.

I asked why it should be used when i could do the same manipulations with specialized software. The answer was interesting. They said that they understand far better the physical properties of their detectors (which are form Hamamatsu), and have optimized algoritms to get best results. The manipulations occur also on the level of signal which is not stored in the final raw files. Maybe something is also true for the methods used by Fuji.

The term "mathematical manipulation" is something their marketing department would always prevent for political reason. I think also some hardcore sooc shoters would not like to hear it.
 
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Very interesting and informative post, thank you.
Yes it is! I read it a short time ago, not 5 months ago when it was posted.

When I buy a Fuji X camera I'll definitely experiment with settings, but I will probably use Auto dynamic range (DR) with highlight tone (HT) -2 and shadow tone (ST) -1 or -2.

Then shoot JPEG+Raw in case I'm unhappy with JPEG results and want to try editing Raw.

Imaging-Resource.com has examples of all the HT, ST, and DR settings, but not in combination with each other. Auto DR seems safer than DR 400 to avoid increasing ISO.
 

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