Remote Shutter Release

[npfarm]

I was wondering what everyone is using for remote shutter release? Wired vs tethered?

I've heard wired is more reliable and tethered less camera shake possibility?

Which do you use?

Thank you.

 

[GSWayne]

I use an app on my smart phone called DSLR Remote. I have also used the cheap IR remotes, but with the phone app I don't need to carry an extra bit of gear.

 

[Tristimulus]

I use wired timer remotes - reliability, and running several cameras simoustanely the few good nights we have per year at my location. No problem with vibration at all (modern electric cable releases are very different from the old mechanical ones).

Wireless is handy, but one phone per camera is not quite my way.

Anyway, wireless is the future simply because making mechanical contacts are more expensive than adding wireless capability.

 

[Gary Zuercher]

I use a Vello Shutterboss II wired intervelometer. Good piece of kit.

 

[AustinMN]

I use the JJC IR remote. It's a lot cheaper than a smartphone.

But...every once in a while, it stops working until I take out the battery and put it back in. It can be a nuisance.

 

[W5JCK]

I use a wired intervalometer. Using WiFi eats batteries in a hurry, at least with my two cameras.

 

[jrsm]

Wired is more reliable and less moving parts. As far as camera shake is concerned there is no difference between a wired or tethered connection. A wired remote can take advantage of mirror locks; not every tethered connection can. (BYN can't)

For long exposures untethered I use an interval timer and depending on the exposure time I will use the exposure delay function in the camera to raise the mirror a few seconds prior to exposure.

Using wireless connections or even a laptop is only useful when you have power. I don't like to rely on cellphone or laptop batteries in the field.

 

[npfarm]

Thank you for the insight. What remote do you use? I was thinking a vello shutter boss but I am not sure of the mirror lock capability.

 

[Sir Canon]

i use magic lantern. it has an intervalometer and a bulb timer so you can take exposures all the way up to 8 hours

 

[Vcize]

Those of you using wired intervalometers, you don't run into problems with the mechanism hanging by wire during long exposures or long timelapses? I can't imagine standing there holding it still for a long time, and if it's hanging couldn't the sway cause camera shake?

 

[W5JCK]

Those of you using wired intervalometers, you don't run into problems with the mechanism hanging by wire during long exposures or long timelapses? I can't imagine standing there holding it still for a long time, and if it's hanging couldn't the sway cause camera shake?

I use a bit of velcro to hold the wired intervalometer to the tripod or tracking mount. I do have to watch where I lay the wire though as it is possible for it to get tangled during the tracking session if I'm not careful. The velcro keeps the intervalometer held in place though, and that keeps accidents down to a bare minimum.

Personally, I like using an app that is installed in my Sony cameras that provides internal intervalometer. It is pretty good, though not as versatile as a wired intervalometer.

 

[User0072362798]

Im using an app called Cascable ... works wirelessly on my Iphone and Ipad. Can take single images, or time lapse as an invelometer. Seems to work fine. And its free.

Just my $.02 worth.

 

[W5JCK]

You guys that are using smartphone/tablet apps need to connect via BT or WiFi. Keep in mind those connections burn up battery charge, especially WiFi. Just something to think about if you find you are running low on battery power on long shoots.

 

[Tristimulus]

You guys that are using smartphone/tablet apps need to connect via BT or WiFi. Keep in mind those connections burn up battery charge, especially WiFi. Just something to think about if you find you are running low on battery power on long shoots.

One phone and several cameras - trouble.

Several cameras each with a cabled timer remote - happiness all the way.

--
Best Regards,
Jack
Website: http://w5jck.com/nightscapes-gallery.html
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jackswinden
Sony RX100M3, a6000, and a7

 

[dgeffs]

Cam Ranger. It's a bit more than a release but I find it useful.

 

[Rick_in_madison]

So sad that TriggerTrap is no more. Still using their Mobile product -- a dongle that plugs into phone's earphone jack, with a socket for a cheap adapter cable to various cameras. They went bust trying to produce The Remote Trigger for The Ages.

Not absolutely foolproof -- once in a while I have to putz with it for minutes at a time to get the camera to listen to it. In particular, the volume has to be maxed-out to make it work, and Android carefully tries to safeguard my hearing by defaulting to 3/4 at most, and "Are you sure"-ing the daylights out of me for higher.

But once it's going, it goes very, very well, without WiFi or BT or any of those battery-sucking radios. You can extend the cable quite a bit with a standard 3.5mm audio cable, if you like. And of course you've got a nice big screen for your remote instead of a little LCD. You might be able to pick it up used somewhere.

TT's going-out-of-business note

 

[1llusive]

Wired is more reliable and less moving parts. As far as camera shake is concerned there is no difference between a wired or tethered connection. A wired remote can take advantage of mirror locks; not every tethered connection can. (BYN can't)

BYN does in fact has an option to activate exposure delay.

For long exposures untethered I use an interval timer and depending on the exposure time I will use the exposure delay function in the camera to raise the mirror a few seconds prior to exposure.

Using wireless connections or even a laptop is only useful when you have power. I don't like to rely on cellphone or laptop batteries in the field.

I agree with the KISS principle. However, how do you check framing & focus through the night? You can't rely on the camera LCD because that requires touching the camera.

 

[Tristimulus]

Wired is more reliable and less moving parts. As far as camera shake is concerned there is no difference between a wired or tethered connection. A wired remote can take advantage of mirror locks; not every tethered connection can. (BYN can't)

BYN does in fact has an option to activate exposure delay.

For long exposures untethered I use an interval timer and depending on the exposure time I will use the exposure delay function in the camera to raise the mirror a few seconds prior to exposure.

Using wireless connections or even a laptop is only useful when you have power. I don't like to rely on cellphone or laptop batteries in the field.

I agree with the KISS principle. However, how do you check framing & focus through the night? You can't rely on the camera LCD because that requires touching the camera.

In my case the typical run is two times 32x30sec and adjusting focus in between, then 64x30sec and adjusting focus in between. Get stars and not blobs this way...

Cabled timer remotes and running several cameras simultanously, simple and reliable.

Especially when taking warm lenses outside focus will creep quite fast initially and then stabilize. If temperatures drop all night focus will also creep all night. Telephoto lenses are more affected than wider angle lenses.

 

[nkistrup]

Im using an app called Cascable ... works wirelessly on my Iphone and Ipad. Can take single images, or time lapse as an invelometer. Seems to work fine. And its free.

Just my $.02 worth.

What camera body & WiFi setup are you using? The Nikon D7100 / WU-1a combo is sluggish w. Cascable.

 

[User0072362798]

Im using an app called Cascable ... works wirelessly on my Iphone and Ipad. Can take single images, or time lapse as an invelometer. Seems to work fine. And its free.

Just my $.02 worth.

What camera body & WiFi setup are you using? The Nikon D7100 / WU-1a combo is sluggish w. Cascable.

I'm using a Canon 70D.

I dont know what Wifi setup is involved ... I dont understand the technical stuff, but I just activate the Wifi setting on the camera and the Iphone/Ipad recognizes it.

Doesnt seem sluggish ... I use it for time lapse and there's no slowing down between images.

Hope thats helpful.