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camera settings while using strobes
- Thread starter MJSparks
- Start date
antares103
Senior Member
Assuming you mean studio lights, you can trigger them with a speedlight, but it should be set to manual mode. TTL mode will fire a preflash, firing the studio lights prematurely.
As for camera settings, generally ISO 100 (or 200 if that is as low as you can get), 1/160 (maybe up to 1/250, but generally won't matter anyway), and select the aperture you want based on the effect it gives (i.e. for sharpness or for depth of filed). Set the flash to match those settings. If you cannot get bright enough, use a higher ISO or wider aperture. If you cannot get dark enough, use a lower ISO if possible, back the light off, use an ND filter on the lens or flash or use a smaller aperture.
As for camera settings, generally ISO 100 (or 200 if that is as low as you can get), 1/160 (maybe up to 1/250, but generally won't matter anyway), and select the aperture you want based on the effect it gives (i.e. for sharpness or for depth of filed). Set the flash to match those settings. If you cannot get bright enough, use a higher ISO or wider aperture. If you cannot get dark enough, use a lower ISO if possible, back the light off, use an ND filter on the lens or flash or use a smaller aperture.
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For a meaningful answer please provide more detail as to exactly what you are doing, the gear you are using and your settings. Posting an image with EXIF data intact would be helpful.
Without knowing more let me guess you are shooting multiple frame in rapid sequence. That might explain the inconsistent images if the strobe doesn't have time to recycle.. Completely white image means way too much light. Have you tried reducing the strobe's power setting? What does the other images look like?
The typical optical sensor built into studio strobes will try to trigger the strobe twice upon seeing a preflash containing flash from a hot-shoe flash set to TTL mode. When set to manual power the preflash is usually eliminated.
One downside of optically triggering is when the triggering light burst shows up as unwanted light in your image. This isn't an issue when using radio triggers.
- John
Sailor Blue
Forum Pro
Here is some general information. but as Steve said, to understand your problem and give meaningful information we should know about the camera, flash, and strobes.
By external flash I am assuming that you are talking about a hot-shoe flash mounted on your camera's hot-shoe.
Set both the camera and flash to Manual Mode. You do not want any pre-flash from the flash so don't use TTL.
As Steve said, set the camera to ISO 100, 1/160sec, and start with an aperture of f/8. Leave about 2 seconds between shots to allow your studio strobes to fully recharge.
Set the hot-shoe flash power to 1/64 of full power. All you want is for it to produce a weak flash of light that will trigger at least one of your studio strobes via the built-in optical slave sensor.
The setting for your studio strobe will depend on the power of the strobe and the size of the diffuser used, if any.
Here is an example.
If you have a 300Ws strobe that is being used with a 43"-45" umbrella located 4' from the subject then expect to be at about 1/2 of full power. You have to adjust the exposure if you change the distance to the diffuser - move the umbrella to 8' and you would reduce the intensity of light by about 2 stops. You could change the strobe power, aperture, and/or ISO to keep getting a good exposure.
You will have to adjust the camera or strobe settings if you are using a strobe with a different power or a diffuser with a different size.
By external flash I am assuming that you are talking about a hot-shoe flash mounted on your camera's hot-shoe.
Set both the camera and flash to Manual Mode. You do not want any pre-flash from the flash so don't use TTL.
As Steve said, set the camera to ISO 100, 1/160sec, and start with an aperture of f/8. Leave about 2 seconds between shots to allow your studio strobes to fully recharge.
Set the hot-shoe flash power to 1/64 of full power. All you want is for it to produce a weak flash of light that will trigger at least one of your studio strobes via the built-in optical slave sensor.
The setting for your studio strobe will depend on the power of the strobe and the size of the diffuser used, if any.
Here is an example.
If you have a 300Ws strobe that is being used with a 43"-45" umbrella located 4' from the subject then expect to be at about 1/2 of full power. You have to adjust the exposure if you change the distance to the diffuser - move the umbrella to 8' and you would reduce the intensity of light by about 2 stops. You could change the strobe power, aperture, and/or ISO to keep getting a good exposure.
You will have to adjust the camera or strobe settings if you are using a strobe with a different power or a diffuser with a different size.
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