Eos 1D MK 3, 4 split image focussing

xeftilas

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I tried before manual focussing with 50mm EF F1.2 but since id=s focussing is done by the wire never manage to get the focussing achieved with the T90 and an FD 50mm F1.2 . Can any body tried an FD lens with the appropriate split screen on the 1D MK 3 + 4 which I know can take a split image focussing screen? I tried manual focussing with 4/3s and Sony A7 which is OK when the lens is closed down to F5.6 . Thanks . Chris at 68 yrs old still hoping for that elusive shot .
 
I tried before manual focussing with 50mm EF F1.2 but since id=s focussing is done by the wire never manage to get the focussing achieved with the T90 and an FD 50mm F1.2 . Can any body tried an FD lens with the appropriate split screen on the 1D MK 3 + 4 which I know can take a split image focussing screen? I tried manual focussing with 4/3s and Sony A7 which is OK when the lens is closed down to F5.6 . Thanks . Chris at 68 yrs old still hoping for that elusive shot .
I don't know about 4/3 but manual focus with m43 is very very easy. I have used some old slr's and I don't think that manual focusing with a split prism comes anywhere near the ease, speed, and accuracy of current evf technology.
 
Thank you for taking the time to comment. Focussing manually with EVF it is easy especially if you close the lens down to F5.6, but I have problems with F1.4 , maybe I have a faulty sample. Again Thanks. Chris
 
Thank you for taking the time to comment. Focussing manually with EVF it is easy especially if you close the lens down to F5.6, but I have problems with F1.4 , maybe I have a faulty sample. Again Thanks. Chris
What camera are you trying to focus with? The Olympus em1 or em5 mark II are very good for manual focus, as is the gx8. I personally consider the em5 mark II the best as it has an extremely good peaking implementation and a very clear large viewfinder. I do all of my shooting with manual focus lenses and 2 of the 3 lenses in my bag are very often shot at f0.95

It really just takes a bit of practice. Peaking makes things easier as does in viewfinder magnification.

The a7 cameras are actually pretty crudey in comparison. The viewfinders have good specs but are not really that good in practice.
 
Thank for taking further time to explain more. I have both the Olympus EM1 and Sony A7R II and use Metabone adapters . I tried again with the Sony and a 100mm ( Minolta MD). The problem is that the peaking colour comes on with little variation when the lens ring is moved say between 6-7 feet. One foot is quite a lot when you need critical focussing - say focus on the eye of the sitter .

I did learn that if you get the peaking to occur from the focussing point and extend to beyond the focussing point you will have more success .

Regards Chris
 
Thank for taking further time to explain more. I have both the Olympus EM1 and Sony A7R II and use Metabone adapters . I tried again with the Sony and a 100mm ( Minolta MD). The problem is that the peaking colour comes on with little variation when the lens ring is moved say between 6-7 feet. One foot is quite a lot when you need critical focussing - say focus on the eye of the sitter .

I did learn that if you get the peaking to occur from the focussing point and extend to beyond the focussing point you will have more success .

Regards Chris
I have only tested the sony peaking in passing. But it sounds like the peaking on the camera is just badly implemented. So far the best I have used is the em5 mark II. Fantastic accuracy and no issue gaining focus. The em1 with all updates might be similar in comparison. IDK I can't stand the em1 grip long enough to find out haha
 

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