A review of the Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 45-175 F/4-F/5.6

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To summarise this lens is to say a few things. First of all for best results its best on an Olympus body to go into your auto focus menu, gear (cog) AF/MF and turn reset lens to off. This is another one of those annoying Olympus habits of doing things that are detrimental like disabling the live Super Control Panel. I have no idea why. I also have no idea why this is coming up but if it needs to be moved so should it.

feccdf4b3dae407aaae3941a504dbd83.jpg.png

This lens is a Panasonic G X series lens and so it has some amount of build quality of it beyond a basic kit lens, I'm looking at you Olympus 45-150 R. The focus ring and zoom ring comparatively feels smooth and buttery where the Olympus feels coarse, with one short coming. The Panasonic lens is fly by wire so there are no physical stops and so this could become problematic especially when shooting at night. Despite this the engagement feels weighted surprisingly well and but for the electronics moving about you wouldn't know this lens was focus by wire.

On that note the zoom mechanism, this is a power zoom lens, hence why I recommended to turn off the lens reset otherwise you pick your camera up after powering down as a member of the Battery Conservation Wilderness Society and you find your lens is set back to 45mm, it's annoying but there is a simple fix, just turn lens reset off.

In terms of sharpness? Well this lens requires a little extra help in post, but the results that do come up are pretty sharp above 100mm reaching full sharpness between 135 at F/5.6 to F/8 and then all the way to 175mm where it falls off a little bit reaching that. The results are bright and vibrant, and I had to turn down the saturation and vibrancy in post processing and this one fell out of the range of best sharpness but its hard to tell as the lens does not record the focal length on the LCD display unless you're holding down the focus button as you zoom, so you have to guesstimate exactly where that point is on Olympus cameras and then get it right while focusing, doing a bit of a dance, or hoping that you've just hit the lenses sweet spot by chance.

04c1bb6a76764d50ad53f7a40d4a2823.jpg

6ca67fdd557f425faf5c9d47b3fd7a96.jpg

On an especially hazy day this lens breaks up as with every other lens. Could I get a usable result from this lens at this distance? Probably but I'd have to do a lot of work in post-processing, but this is atmospheric haze and not a lens issue. I'm a landscape photographer primarily but this is 15kilometres, or 9.5miles as the crow flyies between Point Arkwright and Hells Gate on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland.

f4e3c9365e5d4cbd837c7d2a2f9f7ac7.jpg

As to the so called power zoom features itself, yes it does have a zoom leaver, which might be useful if you're coming from a point and shoot or high end compact camera, but I'd best try to avoid it. They say its for the camcorder user who likes to zoom in and out, but amateur hour is over here guys. If you want to learn how to pan and zoom properly like the big boys in sports photography you're gonna have to get used to using that zoom ring.

You might like Power zoom, but I especially dislike Power Zoom in any sense, mostly because nine times out of 10 when you want to actually zoom to something Power Zoom motors don't tend to move nearly fast enough and secondly, with all that internal electronic business and with powered stepper motors to actuate the zoom mechanism its just another layer of complexity that should not exist in a lens and can break down over time.

I used it once and I suspect I wont use it again, it just reminds me of why I don't like advanced compact, bridge, or point and shoot cameras with electronic motors for everything. You're always in a situation where something is at a point of compromise and in video (what its stated aim is for) that is not being able to pull focus or shift point of view nearly fast enough in a pan and zoom motion.

Overall I like this lens a lot its not a telescopic lens so all its mechanics are internal, it is a made in Japan lens as I've grown to expect from Panasonic, its a G X series lens so its a step up from your basic kit lens in terms of build quality, its quite stodgy for a lens, and almost interferes with the battery grip on my OM-D but it doesn't. It feels like an SLR lens, its made out of durable plastic with a metal lens mount and comes with a lens and hood, something that is essential at this focal length but not included by Olympus.

I'm going to go ahead and give it a 4 out of 5. If it does have a quirk its in the facts of the matter, it doesn't have an OIS switch so on an Olympus body the IBIS takes over and there is no opportunity to say otherwise. Love it or hate it the Power Zoom feature is there like a bug bear from shooting with one too many compacts, the switch is best avoided. It also requires a little helping hand in terms of sharpness you'll find that it goes to something like 25 or so in Light Room or Camera Raw by default, this does not deteriorate the image in any noticeable way. It's challenged in low light and will struggle to focus on subjects closer than 1metre (3feet) away. I could harp on about atmospheric haze but that is nature and not the lens itself at fault. It's just a challenge.

If you like using a travel zoom you might enjoy the power zoom feature, otherwise its best avoided, to be left aside for when you learn how to pan and zoom properly. The last bit I fear is that with an electronically controlled zoom motor you can't just use the zoom at will, all that constant zoom action will eventually wear down the motor.

As they say though folks I'll leave it at that, yibida, yibida and all that.

giphy.gif
 
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Hi, Thanks for posting but please repost this in the appropriate M43 forum.

Just a few comments:

The PZ motor is unlikely to wear out. There are many owners of FZ1000 and other FZ and TZ cameras with no PZ failures or problems after many thousands of exposures.

That 45-175 lens is highly prone to blurred pictures due to shutter shock. It is best used with Olympus Anti Shock or Panasonic E-Shutter in the shutter speed range 1/40-1/320 sec.

Andrew
 
I will experiment with that, I have 2 second anti-shock enabled. My next camera body proper is likely to be a Panasonic GX8, or G7 which will take care of that issue altogether. Although the Elite OM-D E-M5 doesn't tend to have shutter shock as badly as some other cameras.
 
Last edited:
Thanks goes to Martin for bumping this over here :-)
 
Hi, Thanks for posting but please repost this in the appropriate M43 forum.

Just a few comments:

The PZ motor is unlikely to wear out. There are many owners of FZ1000 and other FZ and TZ cameras with no PZ failures or problems after many thousands of exposures.

That 45-175 lens is highly prone to blurred pictures due to shutter shock. It is best used with Olympus Anti Shock or Panasonic E-Shutter in the shutter speed range 1/40-1/320 sec.

Andrew
Yes, I found that - in fact so bad that I found it unusable on my em-5 a couple of years ago. I gave it to my Dad on permanent loan for use on his Panny as a result.

I'm going to see him in a couple of weeks, and plan to see how it behaves on my EM-1 with the latest antishock settings.
 
Well, my next camera body is likely to be a Panasonic GX8 at this stage. But either way, I don't use zooms below 1/250th so I shouldn't see the issue. If I need to shoot something in low light I almost always walk out the door with one of my primes firmly attached to the camera. I just tested this lens out in moderate/low light where you would encounter such situations and even from a moderate distance the lens would not lock on to the silver lens cap of my Olympus 12/2. I thought it would be an easy enough target.

This is purely a daylight only usage lens. F/4 at night and all of a sudden your shutter speed drops to 1/8th of a second or your pushing your ISO up to 800 just to get the shot. There's a reason here why I own a bag full of primes. On those rare occasions should I choose to use it for landscape photography the 2second anti-shock will be on to deal with that. An easy enough target from 3feet away.

I could sit there and try to get it to AF in the end I manual focused it just to prove a point and then used my 45 F/1.8 instead. I'll add this as an addendum of annoying things this lens can't do as below for anyone that is interested. The 45 F/1.8 has no problem with this.

67230fcc1aed47de8e702cf1f2e9cfed.jpg
 
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I use the 45-175 on the GM5, GX7, GX8 and GH4 with no problems. I suspect that it is one of those lenses which function better on a Pana body.
 
Hi, Thanks for posting but please repost this in the appropriate M43 forum.
as noted by the message yellow-highlighted by Martin and moved to the M4/3's forum by Martin. Martin has requested the classification of this lens be corrected by the Admins.

Steve
 
When first released this lens had problems with unsharp images at certain shutter speeds. I ran into this and was disappointed. A firmware release cleared up this problem.

Larry
 
To summarise this lens is to say a few things. First of all for best results its best on an Olympus body to go into your auto focus menu, gear (cog) AF/MF and turn reset lens to off. This is another one of those annoying Olympus habits of doing things that are detrimental like disabling the live Super Control Panel. I have no idea why. I also have no idea why this is coming up but if it needs to be moved so should it.

feccdf4b3dae407aaae3941a504dbd83.jpg.png

This lens is a Panasonic G X series lens and so it has some amount of build quality of it beyond a basic kit lens, I'm looking at you Olympus 45-150 R. The focus ring and zoom ring comparatively feels smooth and buttery where the Olympus feels coarse, with one short coming. The Panasonic lens is fly by wire so there are no physical stops and so this could become problematic especially when shooting at night. Despite this the engagement feels weighted surprisingly well and but for the electronics moving about you wouldn't know this lens was focus by wire.

On that note the zoom mechanism, this is a power zoom lens, hence why I recommended to turn off the lens reset otherwise you pick your camera up after powering down as a member of the Battery Conservation Wilderness Society and you find your lens is set back to 45mm, it's annoying but there is a simple fix, just turn lens reset off.

In terms of sharpness? Well this lens requires a little extra help in post, but the results that do come up are pretty sharp above 100mm reaching full sharpness between 135 at F/5.6 to F/8 and then all the way to 175mm where it falls off a little bit reaching that. The results are bright and vibrant, and I had to turn down the saturation and vibrancy in post processing and this one fell out of the range of best sharpness but its hard to tell as the lens does not record the focal length on the LCD display unless you're holding down the focus button as you zoom, so you have to guesstimate exactly where that point is on Olympus cameras and then get it right while focusing, doing a bit of a dance, or hoping that you've just hit the lenses sweet spot by chance.

04c1bb6a76764d50ad53f7a40d4a2823.jpg

6ca67fdd557f425faf5c9d47b3fd7a96.jpg

On an especially hazy day this lens breaks up as with every other lens. Could I get a usable result from this lens at this distance? Probably but I'd have to do a lot of work in post-processing, but this is atmospheric haze and not a lens issue. I'm a landscape photographer primarily but this is 15kilometres, or 9.5miles as the crow flyies between Point Arkwright and Hells Gate on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland.

f4e3c9365e5d4cbd837c7d2a2f9f7ac7.jpg

As to the so called power zoom features itself, yes it does have a zoom leaver, which might be useful if you're coming from a point and shoot or high end compact camera, but I'd best try to avoid it. They say its for the camcorder user who likes to zoom in and out, but amateur hour is over here guys. If you want to learn how to pan and zoom properly like the big boys in sports photography you're gonna have to get used to using that zoom ring.

You might like Power zoom, but I especially dislike Power Zoom in any sense, mostly because nine times out of 10 when you want to actually zoom to something Power Zoom motors don't tend to move nearly fast enough and secondly, with all that internal electronic business and with powered stepper motors to actuate the zoom mechanism its just another layer of complexity that should not exist in a lens and can break down over time.

I used it once and I suspect I wont use it again, it just reminds me of why I don't like advanced compact, bridge, or point and shoot cameras with electronic motors for everything. You're always in a situation where something is at a point of compromise and in video (what its stated aim is for) that is not being able to pull focus or shift point of view nearly fast enough in a pan and zoom motion.

Overall I like this lens a lot its not a telescopic lens so all its mechanics are internal, it is a made in Japan lens as I've grown to expect from Panasonic, its a G X series lens so its a step up from your basic kit lens in terms of build quality, its quite stodgy for a lens, and almost interferes with the battery grip on my OM-D but it doesn't. It feels like an SLR lens, its made out of durable plastic with a metal lens mount and comes with a lens and hood, something that is essential at this focal length but not included by Olympus.

I'm going to go ahead and give it a 4 out of 5. If it does have a quirk its in the facts of the matter, it doesn't have an OIS switch so on an Olympus body the IBIS takes over and there is no opportunity to say otherwise. Love it or hate it the Power Zoom feature is there like a bug bear from shooting with one too many compacts, the switch is best avoided. It also requires a little helping hand in terms of sharpness you'll find that it goes to something like 25 or so in Light Room or Camera Raw by default, this does not deteriorate the image in any noticeable way. It's challenged in low light and will struggle to focus on subjects closer than 1metre (3feet) away. I could harp on about atmospheric haze but that is nature and not the lens itself at fault. It's just a challenge.

If you like using a travel zoom you might enjoy the power zoom feature, otherwise its best avoided, to be left aside for when you learn how to pan and zoom properly. The last bit I fear is that with an electronically controlled zoom motor you can't just use the zoom at will, all that constant zoom action will eventually wear down the motor.

As they say though folks I'll leave it at that, yibida, yibida and all that.

giphy.gif
First off, I'll start off by saying this is my favorite zoom lens for the system. Some of the things I'll address were in later posts in this thread and not necessarily by the OP.

1. Power zoom lever/switch.

I actually use this most of the time and I like it, especially for video, where it achieves a nice, smooth, camcorder-like result. There is absolutely no evidence that this mechanism would be more likely to break. They're certainly not prone to breaking on Panasonic compact cameras, of which I have several, many up to a decade old.

2. Sharpness

This is actually the sharpest of the slow zooms above 100mm. I'm not sure what you mean by it needing "help", as this lens is really not too far off from the Oly 40-150 Pro for center sharpness above 100mm. This lens is really tack sharp at the longer focal lengths and handily beats the other slow zooms from both Panasonic and Olympus. And, for a lens this size with no extension, this is the sharpest 350mm eq. lens I know of of this size. I don't know of anything (for any system) with this physical length that's this sharp at 350mm EFL. And I don't think it's close.

3. Shutter shock

This lens was definitely worse with the older firmwares, with obvious shutter shock between 1/60s and 1/250s. After firmware 1.1 (I believe), the shutter shock was much reduced. It still has shutter shock at 1/160s, but it's much, much less both above and below 1/160s. The only shutter speed I avoid now is 1/160s.

4. Low light shooting

I agree that because of the speed of this lens, you have to bump up the ISO to shoot in low light situations, such as indoor sports. But, after trying DxO Prime, I find I'm able to bump up the ISO dramatically and still get very good results. I'm now able to shoot at ISO5000 with excellent results (i.e. perfectly sharp and nearly noise free) with this lens on the Panasonic G3! And, if people don't believe me, I'd be happy to post a sample demonstrating this.

I now feel comfortable shooting indoor sports with this lens in some gyms.

And, if you don't need fast shutter speeds to freeze motion, the OIS on this lens can give perfectly usable results at 1/20s (at least in my hands) at 175mm.

5. Focus speed.

In a word, brilliant. This lens is as good as it gets for focus speed and accuracy. If you're having any trouble with speed or accuracy at all, you can be assured that the body you're using is the problem, not the lens. This lens is perfect on Panasonic bodies, BTW.



In conclusion, this is an awesome lens. Highly underrated.
 
Last edited:
To summarise this lens is to say a few things. First of all for best results its best on an Olympus body to go into your auto focus menu, gear (cog) AF/MF and turn reset lens to off. This is another one of those annoying Olympus habits of doing things that are detrimental like disabling the live Super Control Panel. I have no idea why. I also have no idea why this is coming up but if it needs to be moved so should it.

feccdf4b3dae407aaae3941a504dbd83.jpg.png

This lens is a Panasonic G X series lens and so it has some amount of build quality of it beyond a basic kit lens, I'm looking at you Olympus 45-150 R. The focus ring and zoom ring comparatively feels smooth and buttery where the Olympus feels coarse, with one short coming. The Panasonic lens is fly by wire so there are no physical stops and so this could become problematic especially when shooting at night. Despite this the engagement feels weighted surprisingly well and but for the electronics moving about you wouldn't know this lens was focus by wire.

On that note the zoom mechanism, this is a power zoom lens, hence why I recommended to turn off the lens reset otherwise you pick your camera up after powering down as a member of the Battery Conservation Wilderness Society and you find your lens is set back to 45mm, it's annoying but there is a simple fix, just turn lens reset off.

In terms of sharpness? Well this lens requires a little extra help in post, but the results that do come up are pretty sharp above 100mm reaching full sharpness between 135 at F/5.6 to F/8 and then all the way to 175mm where it falls off a little bit reaching that. The results are bright and vibrant, and I had to turn down the saturation and vibrancy in post processing and this one fell out of the range of best sharpness but its hard to tell as the lens does not record the focal length on the LCD display unless you're holding down the focus button as you zoom, so you have to guesstimate exactly where that point is on Olympus cameras and then get it right while focusing, doing a bit of a dance, or hoping that you've just hit the lenses sweet spot by chance.

04c1bb6a76764d50ad53f7a40d4a2823.jpg

6ca67fdd557f425faf5c9d47b3fd7a96.jpg

On an especially hazy day this lens breaks up as with every other lens. Could I get a usable result from this lens at this distance? Probably but I'd have to do a lot of work in post-processing, but this is atmospheric haze and not a lens issue. I'm a landscape photographer primarily but this is 15kilometres, or 9.5miles as the crow flyies between Point Arkwright and Hells Gate on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland.

f4e3c9365e5d4cbd837c7d2a2f9f7ac7.jpg

As to the so called power zoom features itself, yes it does have a zoom leaver, which might be useful if you're coming from a point and shoot or high end compact camera, but I'd best try to avoid it. They say its for the camcorder user who likes to zoom in and out, but amateur hour is over here guys. If you want to learn how to pan and zoom properly like the big boys in sports photography you're gonna have to get used to using that zoom ring.

You might like Power zoom, but I especially dislike Power Zoom in any sense, mostly because nine times out of 10 when you want to actually zoom to something Power Zoom motors don't tend to move nearly fast enough and secondly, with all that internal electronic business and with powered stepper motors to actuate the zoom mechanism its just another layer of complexity that should not exist in a lens and can break down over time.

I used it once and I suspect I wont use it again, it just reminds me of why I don't like advanced compact, bridge, or point and shoot cameras with electronic motors for everything. You're always in a situation where something is at a point of compromise and in video (what its stated aim is for) that is not being able to pull focus or shift point of view nearly fast enough in a pan and zoom motion.

Overall I like this lens a lot its not a telescopic lens so all its mechanics are internal, it is a made in Japan lens as I've grown to expect from Panasonic, its a G X series lens so its a step up from your basic kit lens in terms of build quality, its quite stodgy for a lens, and almost interferes with the battery grip on my OM-D but it doesn't. It feels like an SLR lens, its made out of durable plastic with a metal lens mount and comes with a lens and hood, something that is essential at this focal length but not included by Olympus.

I'm going to go ahead and give it a 4 out of 5. If it does have a quirk its in the facts of the matter, it doesn't have an OIS switch so on an Olympus body the IBIS takes over and there is no opportunity to say otherwise. Love it or hate it the Power Zoom feature is there like a bug bear from shooting with one too many compacts, the switch is best avoided. It also requires a little helping hand in terms of sharpness you'll find that it goes to something like 25 or so in Light Room or Camera Raw by default, this does not deteriorate the image in any noticeable way. It's challenged in low light and will struggle to focus on subjects closer than 1metre (3feet) away. I could harp on about atmospheric haze but that is nature and not the lens itself at fault. It's just a challenge.

If you like using a travel zoom you might enjoy the power zoom feature, otherwise its best avoided, to be left aside for when you learn how to pan and zoom properly. The last bit I fear is that with an electronically controlled zoom motor you can't just use the zoom at will, all that constant zoom action will eventually wear down the motor.

As they say though folks I'll leave it at that, yibida, yibida and all that.

giphy.gif
First off, I'll start off by saying this is my favorite zoom lens for the system. Some of the things I'll address were in later posts in this thread and not necessarily by the OP.

1. Power zoom lever/switch.

I actually use this most of the time and I like it, especially for video, where it achieves a nice, smooth, camcorder-like result. There is absolutely no evidence that this mechanism would be more likely to break. They're certainly not prone to breaking on Panasonic compact cameras, of which I have several, many up to a decade old.

2. Sharpness

This is actually the sharpest of the slow zooms above 100mm. I'm not sure what you mean by it needing "help", as this lens is really not too far off from the Oly 40-150 Pro for center sharpness above 100mm. This lens is really tack sharp at the longer focal lengths and handily beats the other slow zooms from both Panasonic and Olympus. And, for a lens this size with no extension, this is the sharpest 350mm eq. lens I know of of this size. I don't know of anything (for any system) with this physical length that's this sharp at 350mm EFL. And I don't think it's close.

3. Shutter shock

This lens was definitely worse with the older firmwares, with obvious shutter shock between 1/60s and 1/250s. After firmware 1.1 (I believe), the shutter shock was much reduced. It still has shutter shock at 1/160s, but it's much, much less both above and below 1/160s. The only shutter speed I avoid now is 1/160s.

4. Low light shooting

I agree that because of the speed of this lens, you have to bump up the ISO to shoot in low light situations, such as indoor sports. But, after trying DxO Prime, I find I'm able to bump up the ISO dramatically and still get very good results. I'm now able to shoot at ISO5000 with excellent results (i.e. perfectly sharp and nearly noise free) with this lens on the Panasonic G3! And, if people don't believe me, I'd be happy to post a sample demonstrating this.

I now feel comfortable shooting indoor sports with this lens in some gyms.

And, if you don't need fast shutter speeds to freeze motion, the OIS on this lens can give perfectly usable results at 1/20s (at least in my hands) at 175mm.

5. Focus speed.

In a word, brilliant. This lens is as good as it gets for focus speed and accuracy. If you're having any trouble with speed or accuracy at all, you can be assured that the body you're using is the problem, not the lens. This lens is perfect on Panasonic bodies, BTW.

In conclusion, this is an awesome lens. Highly underrated.
I'm inclined to agree with much of what you said ... when it worked I was impressed by the quality if the lens (esp considering the price). Unfortunately for me, the 1/60 to 1/250 range was where I used it a lot (I used it for panned shots of boats and aircraft), and got extremely frustrated by the inconsistent results ... at the time I didn't know much about shutter shock, and so was blaming it on technique.

Really keen to give it another try, as it is an extremely useful focal range for me.

--
Colin K. Work
www.ckwphoto.com
www.pixstel.com
 
This lens has both types of zoom control; a zoom ring that rotates and a toggle switch. I prefer the zoom ring, feels more like a regular zoom.

For me, the big advantage to this lens (and why I have it and the Olympus 12-50), is that you can control the zoom remotely from a smartphone. Great for both video and stills when the camera is up on a boom.
 
You might like Power zoom, but I especially dislike Power Zoom in any sense, mostly because nine times out of 10 when you want to actually zoom to something Power Zoom motors don't tend to move nearly fast enough and secondly, with all that internal electronic business and with powered stepper motors to actuate the zoom mechanism its just another layer of complexity that should not exist in a lens and can break down over time.

I used it once and I suspect I wont use it again, it just reminds me of why I don't like advanced compact, bridge, or point and shoot cameras with electronic motors for everything. You're always in a situation where something is at a point of compromise and in video (what its stated aim is for) that is not being able to pull focus or shift point of view nearly fast enough in a pan and zoom motion.

* * *

If you like using a travel zoom you might enjoy the power zoom feature, otherwise its best avoided, to be left aside for when you learn how to pan and zoom properly. The last bit I fear is that with an electronically controlled zoom motor you can't just use the zoom at will, all that constant zoom action will eventually wear down the motor.
I will note that using the power zooms with Panasonic cameras allow you to control the zoom speed for stills and video separately through settings in the power zoom menu. This allows for lightning quick zooms for still use and slow smooth pulls and pushes in video. Another advantage of using power zooms with wifi capable Panasonic (and maybe Olympus, I haven't tried my PZ with Olympus) bodies is that you can control the zoom from inside the wifi app.

Finally, though the power zoom may seem like something for "amateur" video, I will say that having worked as a photog in sports broadcasting, our equipment was almost always power zoom, whether is was a platform position or a sideline cam, so we could zoom with one hand and focus with the other. I suspect the even some of the more advanced video users would find benefit in the smoothness of the power zoom for slow pulls or similar camera moves.
 
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Your picture here is pretty highly compressed, so it is not n ideal subject, but I gave it a go.

I am using PhotoLine (pl32.com, under US$100, incredible value), so I opened the pic, went to Filter > Quality > Dehaze, let auto choose the color, and gave it pretty much a maximum burst (slider well over to the left). I have only just started using this after being a PL user for years -- I just didn't notice it in the menu! Good grief.

Then Tool > Curves and pulled in both the foot and the top of the curve, then pulled the middle of the curve up to lighten it. Then Filter > Focus magic (a PS compatible plug-in) > Out of Focus, and let it auto pick the required sharpening (I often reduce that, but not in this case).

Then PL Web > Web Export (I have not used this until recently when I discovered it to my astonishment -- I have been doing everything by hand).

Here is the result:

2e5e2cac23f447b0ab549fe832deaaa5.jpg

As I said, the quality of the file on input limited what could be done. But the big thing is the dehaze filter -- takes a moment to use with amazing results.

As for the lens. Yes, I bought the 45-150 because it was available although I was very interested in the 45-175 (I wanted that little bit of extra reach).

Now there is the problem of the f2.8 35-100 to add to the decision making thoughts.

Sigh!

--
Geoffrey Heard
Down and out in Rabaul in the South Pacific
 
Thanks for the tips, I'll get onto getting online and seeing whether there are any lens firmware updates that need to be done. I've used Power Zoom on a range of compact cameras from Panasonic in the past, I'm not the greatest fan of it. I figure I can get more steady results doing it myself. I can see where it could be an advantage for certain instances.

Dehaze might be a useful tool at some point I've been manually adjusting photos using the adjustment brush in Lightroom/ACR and painting in more contrast/clarity where necessary.

I'm not the biggest believer in shutter shock but I guess I might have met my match with this lens. As far as adding sharpness, if I back off the sharpness in ACR I end up with a slightly blurred image that might have just been me, I need some time with this lens to learn its habits. There is always a getting aclimatised period.

EDIT:

I'm just pulling the latest firmware update down now for my E-M5 body, the one that's supposed to help with OIS lenses for the E-M5 I'm not sure it will help with this one though. It seems that my lens is up to the latest firmware update now though, so this is about as good as I can do.

I suppose it may have done something as I can hear the IBIS motor going when the IBIS is turned off.
 
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As with everything I never seem to get the best instant impressions. I may have been a little unfair. This guy was following me around today, so I thought this might be as good an opportunity as any to do some testing on what I can pull out of one of these images. Say hello to Mr. Pelican. Unfortunately from where I was I couldn't get an eye level exposure to really make the most out of the shot, but its plenty sharp enough.

 

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To summarise this lens is to say a few things. First of all for best results its best on an Olympus body to go into your auto focus menu, gear (cog) AF/MF and turn reset lens to off. This is another one of those annoying Olympus habits of doing things that are detrimental like disabling the live Super Control Panel. I have no idea why. I also have no idea why this is coming up but if it needs to be moved so should it.

feccdf4b3dae407aaae3941a504dbd83.jpg.png

This lens is a Panasonic G X series lens and so it has some amount of build quality of it beyond a basic kit lens, I'm looking at you Olympus 45-150 R. The focus ring and zoom ring comparatively feels smooth and buttery where the Olympus feels coarse, with one short coming. The Panasonic lens is fly by wire so there are no physical stops and so this could become problematic especially when shooting at night. Despite this the engagement feels weighted surprisingly well and but for the electronics moving about you wouldn't know this lens was focus by wire.

On that note the zoom mechanism, this is a power zoom lens, hence why I recommended to turn off the lens reset otherwise you pick your camera up after powering down as a member of the Battery Conservation Wilderness Society and you find your lens is set back to 45mm, it's annoying but there is a simple fix, just turn lens reset off.

In terms of sharpness? Well this lens requires a little extra help in post, but the results that do come up are pretty sharp above 100mm reaching full sharpness between 135 at F/5.6 to F/8 and then all the way to 175mm where it falls off a little bit reaching that. The results are bright and vibrant, and I had to turn down the saturation and vibrancy in post processing and this one fell out of the range of best sharpness but its hard to tell as the lens does not record the focal length on the LCD display unless you're holding down the focus button as you zoom, so you have to guesstimate exactly where that point is on Olympus cameras and then get it right while focusing, doing a bit of a dance, or hoping that you've just hit the lenses sweet spot by chance.

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On an especially hazy day this lens breaks up as with every other lens. Could I get a usable result from this lens at this distance? Probably but I'd have to do a lot of work in post-processing, but this is atmospheric haze and not a lens issue. I'm a landscape photographer primarily but this is 15kilometres, or 9.5miles as the crow flyies between Point Arkwright and Hells Gate on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland.

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As to the so called power zoom features itself, yes it does have a zoom leaver, which might be useful if you're coming from a point and shoot or high end compact camera, but I'd best try to avoid it. They say its for the camcorder user who likes to zoom in and out, but amateur hour is over here guys. If you want to learn how to pan and zoom properly like the big boys in sports photography you're gonna have to get used to using that zoom ring.

You might like Power zoom, but I especially dislike Power Zoom in any sense, mostly because nine times out of 10 when you want to actually zoom to something Power Zoom motors don't tend to move nearly fast enough and secondly, with all that internal electronic business and with powered stepper motors to actuate the zoom mechanism its just another layer of complexity that should not exist in a lens and can break down over time.

I used it once and I suspect I wont use it again, it just reminds me of why I don't like advanced compact, bridge, or point and shoot cameras with electronic motors for everything. You're always in a situation where something is at a point of compromise and in video (what its stated aim is for) that is not being able to pull focus or shift point of view nearly fast enough in a pan and zoom motion.

Overall I like this lens a lot its not a telescopic lens so all its mechanics are internal, it is a made in Japan lens as I've grown to expect from Panasonic, its a G X series lens so its a step up from your basic kit lens in terms of build quality, its quite stodgy for a lens, and almost interferes with the battery grip on my OM-D but it doesn't. It feels like an SLR lens, its made out of durable plastic with a metal lens mount and comes with a lens and hood, something that is essential at this focal length but not included by Olympus.

I'm going to go ahead and give it a 4 out of 5. If it does have a quirk its in the facts of the matter, it doesn't have an OIS switch so on an Olympus body the IBIS takes over and there is no opportunity to say otherwise. Love it or hate it the Power Zoom feature is there like a bug bear from shooting with one too many compacts, the switch is best avoided. It also requires a little helping hand in terms of sharpness you'll find that it goes to something like 25 or so in Light Room or Camera Raw by default, this does not deteriorate the image in any noticeable way. It's challenged in low light and will struggle to focus on subjects closer than 1metre (3feet) away. I could harp on about atmospheric haze but that is nature and not the lens itself at fault. It's just a challenge.

If you like using a travel zoom you might enjoy the power zoom feature, otherwise its best avoided, to be left aside for when you learn how to pan and zoom properly. The last bit I fear is that with an electronically controlled zoom motor you can't just use the zoom at will, all that constant zoom action will eventually wear down the motor.

As they say though folks I'll leave it at that, yibida, yibida and all that.

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First off, I'll start off by saying this is my favorite zoom lens for the system. Some of the things I'll address were in later posts in this thread and not necessarily by the OP.

1. Power zoom lever/switch.

I actually use this most of the time and I like it, especially for video, where it achieves a nice, smooth, camcorder-like result. There is absolutely no evidence that this mechanism would be more likely to break. They're certainly not prone to breaking on Panasonic compact cameras, of which I have several, many up to a decade old.

2. Sharpness

This is actually the sharpest of the slow zooms above 100mm. I'm not sure what you mean by it needing "help", as this lens is really not too far off from the Oly 40-150 Pro for center sharpness above 100mm. This lens is really tack sharp at the longer focal lengths and handily beats the other slow zooms from both Panasonic and Olympus. And, for a lens this size with no extension, this is the sharpest 350mm eq. lens I know of of this size. I don't know of anything (for any system) with this physical length that's this sharp at 350mm EFL. And I don't think it's close.

3. Shutter shock

This lens was definitely worse with the older firmwares, with obvious shutter shock between 1/60s and 1/250s. After firmware 1.1 (I believe), the shutter shock was much reduced. It still has shutter shock at 1/160s, but it's much, much less both above and below 1/160s. The only shutter speed I avoid now is 1/160s.

4. Low light shooting

I agree that because of the speed of this lens, you have to bump up the ISO to shoot in low light situations, such as indoor sports. But, after trying DxO Prime, I find I'm able to bump up the ISO dramatically and still get very good results. I'm now able to shoot at ISO5000 with excellent results (i.e. perfectly sharp and nearly noise free) with this lens on the Panasonic G3! And, if people don't believe me, I'd be happy to post a sample demonstrating this.

I now feel comfortable shooting indoor sports with this lens in some gyms.

And, if you don't need fast shutter speeds to freeze motion, the OIS on this lens can give perfectly usable results at 1/20s (at least in my hands) at 175mm.

5. Focus speed.

In a word, brilliant. This lens is as good as it gets for focus speed and accuracy. If you're having any trouble with speed or accuracy at all, you can be assured that the body you're using is the problem, not the lens. This lens is perfect on Panasonic bodies, BTW.

In conclusion, this is an awesome lens. Highly underrated.
In terms of sharpness what about the last 55-200 dx from Nikon?

 

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