Glasses, progressives or bifocals best for location photoshoots?

mpiper

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I've reached that vaunted age where you can either focus on distance or close-up. Without my glasses I can see the image in the viewfinder prefect and the back of the camera, but the subject is blurry to my own eyes. Or I can wear glasses and the subject I'd prefect clear, and I can assist the viewfinder diopter, but the ban of the camera is blurred.

So, I'm looking at getting bifocals or progressives.

Who has them, which kind, and what are your suggestions/warnings?

Has anyone tried both and found one better than the other? If so, why?
 
I have been wearing bifocals since I was 22, and I have never even tried progressives. Just trying out the sample lenses makes me nauseated- passing my attention through the transition area is like riding a roller coaster for me. Very unpleasant. Learning to use standard bifocals is not a thrill but the oddness passes in a day or two and it quickly becomes a habit.

One piece of advice: regardless of what type of dual correction specs you choose, get your first set fitted by a first class eye doctor. Don't use one of those quickie joints in a mall or big box store. The fitting should be done by someone with taste and experience, preferably someone who knows you well. There are a lot of different ways to set up a pair of bifocals: the reading area can vary in size and shape and be placed in different parts of the main lens.

Make sure the doctor knows you are a photographer! Bring your camera and be ready to demonstrate how you use it. He or she will be able to get you a pair of glasses that will work well for you. I've been shooting, drawing, writing and reading with standard bifocals for more than thirty years without any problems whatsoever. But that's because my first pair was set up by my childhood eye doctor. He was a friend of my parents and he'd known me pretty much all my life. He knew I was a photographer and an artist and a keen student and that I did a ton of reading and writing, and he made me a set of glasses with a much larger than standard reading area in a particular place. I have been wearing the same style of frame ever since and my lenses to this day are exact copies of that original set. (They have to be cut out of a larger blank and are a pain to make but they are worth every penny they cost.)

When you get your new glasses, you will have to adjust your diopter correction, but once you do that and you get used to using your new lenses, you should have no further trouble.
 
I started needing reading glasses progressing ( aging ! ) onto bifocals but I was aware of the gap between the close and distance part of the lens. I opted to try progressives about 15 years ago, there was a difficult learning period but once I became familiar with the required head movements etc everything was brilliant, I wear my glasses when using the camera without any issues. I would endorse the comment above about the type of optician you consult, I use an old school business who take extra care with the eye test checking for signs of other possible medical problems other than eye issues and extra time selecting and fitting the frame to ensure the various parts of the lens strengths are in the appropriate place relevant to the eye.
 
I always needed glasses for astigmatism and then about ten years or so ago the optician told me I was getting into presbyopia territory and recommended progressives. I had absolutely no trouble adapting to them.

The advantage over bifocals is that you can focus at any distance with a slight tilt of the head. So to chimp I can focus on my screen at 10" (25cm) which is generally taken as the close focus distance for healthy eyes. I'm currently viewing my computer screen at a distance of about 2' (60cm)through a slightly higher part of my lenses and I can focus anywhere from there to the horizon depending on exactly the tilt of my head, which rapidly becomes automatic.

I also have a pair of single prescription close focusing specs for use only when I am doing detailed work close-to in awkward positions -- in my case electronics. The thought of actually switching between those and a longer focus set every time I switch activities, let alone for something like photography, definitely does not appeal to me.
 
I use a varifocal, which may be the same as what you are referring to as progressives - these have different areas without the visible dividing lines...

They work very well, although there are times when I still just want to move to glasses up to my forehead and view directly - I'm told it pays to go for the costlier options where there is less 'soft focus' effect - I went for a middle of the range for my glasses, but would probably go for top of the range when the prescription changes (I was unsure if I would even be able to get on with bifocal-type lenses).
 
Thanks for the feedback so far folks.

I currently have a pair of progressives. Just picked them up 2 days ago. I got these because when I told the staff I was a photographer and video editor, they recommended these for the ability of a wider range of distances.

The challenge so far, is that the very top of the lens has a chromatic distortion, and soft focus. The center is perfect for distance, nice and sharp. But just to the left or right, things have the chromatic distortion. Then, down the "reading strip" the details stay sharp, but it seems very narrow, about the width of a long word or two medium words. Then the lower left and right are out of focus and also have the chromatic shift. They also distort vertically, so if I move my head left and right, the horizon looks like I'm on a boat. These are the Zeiss top-of-the-line lenses that are supposed to have the widest focus strip.

I can see through them. But the narrowness of the perfect vision makes me feel as if they are either not the perfect cut/prescription and need to be recut, or that traditional bifocals would work better. But these are my first ever multi-focal glasses. So I'm reading the comments here to see whats the prevalent type used, and what techniques people use to shoot while wearing them.
 
If you are interested in varifocals ( progressives ) you should do it first as if you go bifocals first it is much harder to adapt. My first pair of varifocals took a bit of time to get over the sea sickness like effect, but once past that they were fine. Different brands of progressives have different widths of good vision. Some are wider and some are not. Ask at different eye centers about the specs of different lenses. They are more expensive than bifocals, but once you get used to them they are good. I don't know if bifocals experience the distortion on the ends or not. Don't buy something cheap as you will regret it.
 
This may not help, so apologies if it doesn't.

I went a different route - I got soft contact lenses for normal use and cehap reading glasses for when I need detail close t hand.

I have found the the contact lenses do a good enough job in most circumstances for me not to need the readers most of the time - poor light is the likeliest case where I'll need them.

It's a compromise and it's not for everyone. But I hated the smaple varifocals I tried and, as someone else pointed out, found them very disorientating when switching "viewing mode"

Anyway, hope that's some help
 
I've never noticed any distortion in my bifocals. Just a good lens for each correction and a neat line between them. When the glasses are properly fitted you seldom if ever see the line unless you deliberately look for it.
 
I have found that there are different variations in width of the sweet spot depending on how deep your pocket is, I have what are described as the best for my prescription which gives me quite a wide sweet spot before the oof area becomes noticeable but once familiar with the characteristics the slight head movements required are done automatically.
 
From your description your glasses are just wrong. You should have sharp vision at long distance at the top of the lens, and how close you can get good focus at the bottom will depend on how large the lenses are and how wide each "zone" is. If this is not what you have, send them back and tell them to try again.

I see well uncorrected at about 20 feet so I usually use my camera EVF sans glasses and adjust its eyepiece to my vision. I often use my glasses when using the screen. Your situation may differ. This also means that I can see sharply in the EVF near the center of my glasses.

Glasses,whether progressive or bifocal is an individual matter and both take some learning. Some people never get comfortable with one or the other but if you are starting on multifocal, progressive are the best to try first. Presbyopia does not get less severe so eventually no bifocal is going to work at all distances so the sooner you get used to progressive the better, if you can.
 
This may not help, so apologies if it doesn't.

I went a different route - I got soft contact lenses for normal use and cehap reading glasses for when I need detail close t hand.

I have found the the contact lenses do a good enough job in most circumstances for me not to need the readers most of the time - poor light is the likeliest case where I'll need them.

It's a compromise and it's not for everyone. But I hated the smaple varifocals I tried and, as someone else pointed out, found them very disorientating when switching "viewing mode"

Anyway, hope that's some help
I tried something similar. I've been using contacts since 1986 as a high school senior. Never needed any additional visual assistance until last year. But when I shoot in the field, I can't be putting on and taking off glasses. (I shoot corporate safety videos, so some shots are a 1-time only shot with no repeats.) I tried "multifocal" contacts, which are supposed to be the contacts version of bifocals. They never quite worked. I ended up with one eye using one brand that gave me 99% clear distance vision and better than none close vision, and another brand in the other eye, which gave me great close up vision and driving-quality distance vision. Between the two, I could see the full range of vision, but the best it ever got was like a soft-focus lens. never any razor-sharp lines.

That's why I'm trying glasses, where different sections of the lens are dedicated to a specific vision, so its razor sharp. The problem at this point is I feel the clear vision field of view is very limited. But bifocals only give 2(or 3 for trifocals) distance ranges, and my wife doesn't like them. so I'm trying to figure out the best option for photography and videography work.

For those with Progressives, do you find the narrow field of vision on the middle-close distances to be a problem checking focus and exposures in the field? With Bifocals, does the lower section also have a small focus section, or is it large enough for a full, clear view of the entire camera back?

Thanks to everyone for the responses so far!
 
From your description your glasses are just wrong. You should have sharp vision at long distance at the top of the lens, and how close you can get good focus at the bottom will depend on how large the lenses are and how wide each "zone" is. If this is not what you have, send them back and tell them to try again.
That's part of what I'm trying to figure out. Having never worn them, I can only compare them to what the literature says. And these are not as wide as the marketing portrays. But, the parts that ARE in focus are great.
I see well uncorrected at about 20 feet so I usually use my camera EVF sans glasses and adjust its eyepiece to my vision. I often use my glasses when using the screen. Your situation may differ. This also means that I can see sharply in the EVF near the center of my glasses.
With my distance glasses, I can see razor sharp down to about 2 feet away and can't focus closer than about 16-18 inches. Without them, I can see razor sharp about 6 inches away from my nose, but looking under my glasses is very awkward. So I'm trying to get the best possible for near and far in one lens.
Glasses,whether progressive or bifocal is an individual matter and both take some learning. Some people never get comfortable with one or the other but if you are starting on multifocal, progressive are the best to try first. Presbyopia does not get less severe so eventually no bifocal is going to work at all distances so the sooner you get used to progressive the better, if you can.
So far, I seem to be adapting to the progressives decently. No nausea, just a minor headache. Walking and going up and down stairs is no problem. I can drive fine, since the blurry sides of the lenses are still good enough to see large details and I can turn my head to bring street signs into perfect focus.

Right now, I'm stumped on 2 things. 1) are these lenses made correctly for me and my eyes, and 2) what is the best way to use them (quirks, tips, tricks) on location during a shoot without slowing down the event.
 
...but have you tried contact lenses?

I have a heavier prescription in my right eye than in my left and I found that if I only put a disposable contact lens in my right eye and none in my left, it did allow me to do distance and read close-up... effectively your brain ignores the OoF image from whichever eye is mismatched to whet you are looking at.

You lose some binocular vision (ie don't ry it when playing cricket or baseball), but it can work quite well.
 
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I wear progressives all the time, and on my location shoots. At first, it does take some time getting used them, especially when you turn your head side to side. But, once your brain acclimates to them, you will appreciate being able to take a shot then look down at your camera's LCD screen for a review. I will say that my progressives are trifocals. I like the seamless quality when my eyes look down from the top of my glass to the bottom.

Dana
 
No offense, but I wouldn't worry too much about your wife's opinion on this. Normally I am all in favor of spouses respecting each other's points of view and working together to build a happy life--I've been married to the same person for 30 years and I know that compromise is almost always the order of the day.

But any spouse of mine who presumed to offer more than the most casual opinion on the topic of my glasses would be promptly told where to get off. There's nothing more personal, and few things more important, than your vision.

The Other Old Pentaxian's thick trifocals in old school wire frames are hardly beautiful, but my advice was neither asked for nor offered, and the same goes with my oddball bifocals with the massive astigmatism correction. And that's exactly the way it should be.
 
As I wrote your description strongly suggest they got them wrong. As with things involving professionals, take suggestions for strangers like me on the internet but return to your provider and raise these issues with them. This is their business and they want to get them right.
 
I wear progressive lineless bifocals. They also darken (a lot!) in direct sunlight to double as excellent sunglasses.

I use the progressive bifocals because they make me a little less old. No, I'm not sensitive. But clients want editorial/photojournalism guys to look pretty perky and gung ho. I could be completely wrong about this--but I think I'm right.

--
photojournalist
http://craighartley.zenfolio.com/
 
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Ah, the second pair! For specific activities they can't be beat. I have a pair of studio bifocals, with my standard reading/close correction in the lower lens and a special correction at arm's length for work on the monitor and at the drawing table. I've been doing this for years and it works well. I can't drive, take pictures or watch TV with these glasses on, although I can cook. They live in my studio and have increased my productivity dramatically.

As for the race against time re bifocals vs. progressives, I'm "lucky" in that I am also racing against time with cataracts. My eye doctor thinks that before the time when bifocals stop working for me I will need cataract surgery on both eyes. At that time I will have the best laser correction they can do and hopefully be back to where I can use my normal glasses again.
 
Just one, perhaps silly, question:

What size and shape are those progressives?

Shapes of specs go through fashions. I always try to get the biggest lens area I can, but sometimes there is not much choice.

If you look at the three styles in this image which one would you expect to accommodate all the zones of a progressive lens with room to see clearly?



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--
Albert
(The one in France)
Every photograph is an abstraction from reality.
 

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