At which point does a SCT outperform a refractor?

inmyprime123

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Is there a rule of thumb at which apertures a reflector starts to outperform a refractor?

For example would an 81mm refractor do better than an 8" SCT or Newtonian for either observing or imaging? I would in particular like to compare the William Optics GT81 and the Celestron EdgeHD 8"

Will the Celestron do worse?

I realise this is not a straight-forward question but perhaps some people own both or similar scopes and could offer some thoughts.

thanks, inmyprime
 
Is there a rule of thumb at which apertures a reflector starts to outperform a refractor?

For example would an 81mm refractor do better than an 8" SCT or Newtonian for either observing or imaging? I would in particular like to compare the William Optics GT81 and the Celestron EdgeHD 8"

Will the Celestron do worse?

I realise this is not a straight-forward question but perhaps some people own both or similar scopes and could offer some thoughts.

thanks, inmyprime
Greetings!

If you wanna go for details - you need diameter, more diameter, more details in your picture/visual view IF (!!!) the conditons - calm atmosphere, dark sky and so on are good too.

If you want to photograph - you are in need of a low aperture - something around f5, lower aperture, less exposure time you do need to collect photons.

So, to sum it up - there is no "one for all" telescope - if you prefer to stay in the solar system, want to visually look at moon and the interesting planets - Mars, Jupiter and Saturn, large aperture and large focal length like a SCT is fine. You too can use a webcam like camera to make fine pictures, depending on the quality of sky, atmosphere - see above, with the "lucky imaging technique".

If its photographing you want - getting photos to hang up on your wall at home - you better use a Newton or refractor.

kind regards,
 
Is there a rule of thumb at which apertures a reflector starts to outperform a refractor?

For example would an 81mm refractor do better than an 8" SCT or Newtonian for either observing or imaging? I would in particular like to compare the William Optics GT81 and the Celestron EdgeHD 8"

Will the Celestron do worse?

I realise this is not a straight-forward question but perhaps some people own both or similar scopes and could offer some thoughts.

thanks, inmyprime
The C8 will outperform the 81mm refractor all the time except for grab and go astronomy. If too much fuzz the telescope will not get much used. There is no best in astronomy...
 
"The C8 will outperform the 81mm refractor all the time except for grab and go astronomy. If too much fuzz the telescope will not get much used. There is no best in astronomy..."

Thanks, that's the general wisdom. I had both of them out the other night and felt the 81mm refractor in fact showed more detail. Perhaps my testing wasn't very rigorous!

I will give it another go.

thanks!
 
Is there a rule of thumb at which apertures a reflector starts to outperform a refractor?

For example would an 81mm refractor do better than an 8" SCT or Newtonian for either observing or imaging? I would in particular like to compare the William Optics GT81 and the Celestron EdgeHD 8"

Will the Celestron do worse?

I realise this is not a straight-forward question but perhaps some people own both or similar scopes and could offer some thoughts.

thanks, inmyprime
Several years ago there was a good discussion on refractors vs reflectors. You might look through this thread:

Refractor or Reflector – Which is “Best” for Astrophotography?
 
"The C8 will outperform the 81mm refractor all the time except for grab and go astronomy. If too much fuzz the telescope will not get much used. There is no best in astronomy..."

Thanks, that's the general wisdom. I had both of them out the other night and felt the 81mm refractor in fact showed more detail. Perhaps my testing wasn't very rigorous!

I will give it another go.

thanks!
Small good refractors can deliver very contrasty images. Even if resolution is missing what is seen is seen better than in a rather low contrast reflecting telescope. But if looking carefully the less contrasty image from the C8 should usually show more detail than the higher contrast but lower resolution refractor - that is: if the atmosphere is rather calm and without too lively turbulence...

Quite complicated stuff this but that is exactly what merkes if interesting - and spur discussions...
 
Is there a rule of thumb at which apertures a reflector starts to outperform a refractor?

For example would an 81mm refractor do better than an 8" SCT or Newtonian for either observing or imaging? I would in particular like to compare the William Optics GT81 and the Celestron EdgeHD 8"

Will the Celestron do worse?

I realise this is not a straight-forward question but perhaps some people own both or similar scopes and could offer some thoughts.

thanks, inmyprime
I've heard that the Nexstar 8 SE behaves like a 5.5" APO refractor. Its secondary mirror is 2.5" wide, so 8"-2.5"=5.5" :)
 
I've heard that the Nexstar 8 SE behaves like a 5.5" APO refractor. Its secondary mirror is 2.5" wide, so 8"-2.5"=5.5" :)
There are quite a few misconceptions in this thread. I'll try and clear some up.

If one is concerned about light gathering, subtract the area of the secondary, not the diameter. sqrt(8^2-2.5^2) = 7.6 inches. So the 8-inch is equivalent to an unobstructed 7.6 inch telescope.
Trollmannx wrote:
Small good refractors can deliver very contrasty images. Even if resolution is missing what is seen is seen better than in a rather low contrast reflecting telescope. But if looking carefully the less contrasty image from the C8 should usually show more detail than the higher contrast but lower resolution refractor - that is: if the atmosphere is rather calm and without too lively turbulence...
First about contrast larger than the diffraction disk. It really depends on how well each instrument is made and the coatings, not what kind of instrument. For example, refractors have 6 to 6 surfaces, SCT 4. Lens surfaces much be well polished and have excellent anti reflective coatings. Mirror surfaces must be polished very well. Small pits left from inadequate polishing result in flare and loss of contrast. Refractors, with multiple strongly curved surfaces are more prone to reflections between surfaces reducing contrast, especially if the best anti reflection coatings are not present.

Where contrast typically differs between reflectors and refractors is near the diffraction limit. The secondary obstruction in SCTs and Newtonian telescopes throws light from the central diffraction disk to the outer diffraction rings. Thus, for planetary detail, a slightly smaller refractor will resolve finer planetary detail than a reflector with a central obstruction. This is where the idea that about a 6-inch refractor shows similar planetary detail to an 8-inch reflector. But in this day with stacking, the problem is more about light gathering to build S/N and stacked videos to produce the best planetary image is probably done better by the larger aperture, not whether refractor or reflector. And this effect is totally irrelevant to astrophotography where seeing limits resolution and fine contrast, not diffraction. Thus, this refractor/reflector effect really only applies to visual observing of planets and the moon and sun.
Michael S. wrote:
If you want to photograph - you are in need of a low aperture - something around f5, lower aperture, less exposure time you do need to collect photons.
The above confuses camera exposure with subject exposure. For example, an 8-inch f/10 SCT (7.6 inch unobstructed aperture, 193 mm) collects (193/81)^2 = 5.6 times more light from the subject. For example, if the 81 mm were f/5 (400 mm focal length), compared to the 8-inch f/10 (2000 mm focal length), make 2 images with each telescope with the same total exposure time. The ratio of the focal lengths is 5, so bin the image from the SCT 5x5 pixels and you would have the same resolution on the subject with 5.6 times more light per pixel. And if binning is a goal, use a focal reducer to get a head start.

Aperture area is key in astrophotography, both in resolution and light collection. The only question is will the intended subject fit in the field of view with a given focal length? Contrast depends more on build quality than a particular design.

Am 8-inch f/10 SCT versus an 81 mm lens (f/5?) is really for different targets. Although if you are spending that much money on an 8-inch telescope, also consider a larger aperture lens.

Roger
 
Just some free thinking about telescopes...

Have been using small and quite good refractors for a long time and visually the images are very appealing with high contrast, and if using good eyepieces, also rather free from reflexes. To me the view through a refractor is like fine wine - to be enjoyed.

I have had some reflectors from Cave and Meade and Intes and Vixen and none but the Cave have shown good or impressive contrast. The high dollar reflectors have not entered my back yard. But looking through one of those verify that contrast is not a refractor thing alone...

Another fun moment here is turbulence. My atmosphere is lively and when so the secondary is enhancing the effect of the turbulence. Smaller refractors seems to deliver a more calm and steady visual image under such conditions. Note the wording: seems to...

The good lunar and planetary images floating around seems to be taken with 10 - 16 inch reflectors of different kinds. Smaller refractors seems to lag behind in this game.

But then I am a simple mainly lens turned mind loving a simple life with not too big and bulky telescopes and mounts to struggle with. Each telescope has its sky!

Here is what my WO 110 mm refractor is up to under rather good conditions:


110/770mm refractor at f/21 + Imaging Source camera. Not that bad but not impressive...
 
when you need focal length really bad. like shooting the crab, ring, and other planetary nebula. as for visual observing, the more aperture the better, when you train the 26" 8000mm sct telescope my local observatory houses on the core of m31, the eyepiece becomes about as luminous as a small flashlight!

--
I tend to overdo things
 
Last edited:
Michael S. wrote:
If you want to photograph - you are in need of a low aperture - something around f5, lower aperture, less exposure time you do need to collect photons.
The above confuses camera exposure with subject exposure. For example, an 8-inch f/10 SCT (7.6 inch unobstructed aperture, 193 mm) collects (193/81)^2 = 5.6 times more light from the subject. For example, if the 81 mm were f/5 (400 mm focal length), compared to the 8-inch f/10 (2000 mm focal length), make 2 images with each telescope with the same total exposure time. The ratio of the focal lengths is 5, so bin the image from the SCT 5x5 pixels and you would have the same resolution on the subject with 5.6 times more light per pixel. And if binning is a goal, use a focal reducer to get a head start.
Good Morning!

No confusion made by me Roger...aperture is aperture. f5 on a 12inch and f5 on a 4inch is the same according taking a photograph - as I've written - "If you want to photograph...".

And of course you do get far more detail IF atmosphere allows it, with 12inch vs 4inch but of course you have to think about your field of view.
To sum it up - don't see what in my post may cause "confusion" as I was clearly saying "photograph" an object.

kind regards,
 
Michael S. wrote:
If you want to photograph - you are in need of a low aperture - something around f5, lower aperture, less exposure time you do need to collect photons.
The above confuses camera exposure with subject exposure. For example, an 8-inch f/10 SCT (7.6 inch unobstructed aperture, 193 mm) collects (193/81)^2 = 5.6 times more light from the subject. For example, if the 81 mm were f/5 (400 mm focal length), compared to the 8-inch f/10 (2000 mm focal length), make 2 images with each telescope with the same total exposure time. The ratio of the focal lengths is 5, so bin the image from the SCT 5x5 pixels and you would have the same resolution on the subject with 5.6 times more light per pixel. And if binning is a goal, use a focal reducer to get a head start.
Good Morning!
No confusion made by me Roger...aperture is aperture. f5 on a 12inch and f5 on a 4inch is the same according taking a photograph - as I've written - "If you want to photograph...".

And of course you do get far more detail IF atmosphere allows it, with 12inch vs 4inch but of course you have to think about your field of view.
To sum it up - don't see what in my post may cause "confusion" as I was clearly saying "photograph" an object.
Well, if you made a 1 minute exposure with a 12-inch telescope and a 1-minute exposure with a 4-inch telescope, what would be the faintest stars each records? The 12 inch would record stars 9 times fainter, or over 2 magnitudes.

Scale this to a 1-inch f/4 telescope and a 30-inch f/4 telescope. Which records the faintest star? The 30-inch records stars over 7 magnitudes fainter in the same exposure time.

F/ratio tells light density, but not total light from the subject,
and gathering total light from the subject is the all important factor in astrophotography, and that is controlled by clear aperture.

It is also true in regular photography. See my series on exposure:
http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/exposure/

Roger
 
Well, if you made a 1 minute exposure with a 12-inch telescope and a 1-minute exposure with a 4-inch telescope, what would be the faintest stars each records? The 12 inch would record stars 9 times fainter, or over 2 magnitudes.
Ok...you're passing through my words. Of course does a 12inch scope collect more light than a 4inch one - I never doubted that, but for your DSLR mounted on both scopes - you still have the same aperture and therefore use the same settings - exposure time and iso.
You'll find more of the fainter stars in the 12inch picture due to better light gathering but your Halpha of the nebula will not be more, except for fine details.

kind regards,
 
I've heard that the Nexstar 8 SE behaves like a 5.5" APO refractor. Its secondary mirror is 2.5" wide, so 8"-2.5"=5.5" :)
There are quite a few misconceptions in this thread. I'll try and clear some up.

If one is concerned about light gathering, subtract the area of the secondary, not the diameter. sqrt(8^2-2.5^2) = 7.6 inches. So the 8-inch is equivalent to an unobstructed 7.6 inch telescope.
Trollmannx wrote:
Small good refractors can deliver very contrasty images. Even if resolution is missing what is seen is seen better than in a rather low contrast reflecting telescope. But if looking carefully the less contrasty image from the C8 should usually show more detail than the higher contrast but lower resolution refractor - that is: if the atmosphere is rather calm and without too lively turbulence...
First about contrast larger than the diffraction disk. It really depends on how well each instrument is made and the coatings, not what kind of instrument. For example, refractors have 6 to 6 surfaces, SCT 4. Lens surfaces much be well polished and have excellent anti reflective coatings. Mirror surfaces must be polished very well. Small pits left from inadequate polishing result in flare and loss of contrast. Refractors, with multiple strongly curved surfaces are more prone to reflections between surfaces reducing contrast, especially if the best anti reflection coatings are not present.

Where contrast typically differs between reflectors and refractors is near the diffraction limit. The secondary obstruction in SCTs and Newtonian telescopes throws light from the central diffraction disk to the outer diffraction rings. Thus, for planetary detail, a slightly smaller refractor will resolve finer planetary detail than a reflector with a central obstruction. This is where the idea that about a 6-inch refractor shows similar planetary detail to an 8-inch reflector. But in this day with stacking, the problem is more about light gathering to build S/N and stacked videos to produce the best planetary image is probably done better by the larger aperture, not whether refractor or reflector. And this effect is totally irrelevant to astrophotography where seeing limits resolution and fine contrast, not diffraction. Thus, this refractor/reflector effect really only applies to visual observing of planets and the moon and sun.
Michael S. wrote:
If you want to photograph - you are in need of a low aperture - something around f5, lower aperture, less exposure time you do need to collect photons.
The above confuses camera exposure with subject exposure. For example, an 8-inch f/10 SCT (7.6 inch unobstructed aperture, 193 mm) collects (193/81)^2 = 5.6 times more light from the subject. For example, if the 81 mm were f/5 (400 mm focal length), compared to the 8-inch f/10 (2000 mm focal length), make 2 images with each telescope with the same total exposure time. The ratio of the focal lengths is 5, so bin the image from the SCT 5x5 pixels and you would have the same resolution on the subject with 5.6 times more light per pixel. And if binning is a goal, use a focal reducer to get a head start.

Aperture area is key in astrophotography, both in resolution and light collection. The only question is will the intended subject fit in the field of view with a given focal length? Contrast depends more on build quality than a particular design.

Am 8-inch f/10 SCT versus an 81 mm lens (f/5?) is really for different targets. Although if you are spending that much money on an 8-inch telescope, also consider a larger aperture lens.

Roger
Thanks for the help, Roger! I find the SCT more flexible than a refractor, you can get it to f/6.3 with the Celestron Reducer/Corrector. The only thing I find slightly annoying about the SCT is the quality of the starfield toward the edges and the sometimes secondary shadowing effect that I get.
 
Michael S. wrote:
If you want to photograph - you are in need of a low aperture - something around f5, lower aperture, less exposure time you do need to collect photons.
The above confuses camera exposure with subject exposure. For example, an 8-inch f/10 SCT (7.6 inch unobstructed aperture, 193 mm) collects (193/81)^2 = 5.6 times more light from the subject. For example, if the 81 mm were f/5 (400 mm focal length), compared to the 8-inch f/10 (2000 mm focal length), make 2 images with each telescope with the same total exposure time. The ratio of the focal lengths is 5, so bin the image from the SCT 5x5 pixels and you would have the same resolution on the subject with 5.6 times more light per pixel. And if binning is a goal, use a focal reducer to get a head start.
Good Morning!
No confusion made by me Roger...aperture is aperture. f5 on a 12inch and f5 on a 4inch is the same according taking a photograph - as I've written - "If you want to photograph...".

And of course you do get far more detail IF atmosphere allows it, with 12inch vs 4inch but of course you have to think about your field of view.
To sum it up - don't see what in my post may cause "confusion" as I was clearly saying "photograph" an object.
Well, if you made a 1 minute exposure with a 12-inch telescope and a 1-minute exposure with a 4-inch telescope, what would be the faintest stars each records? The 12 inch would record stars 9 times fainter, or over 2 magnitudes.

Scale this to a 1-inch f/4 telescope and a 30-inch f/4 telescope. Which records the faintest star? The 30-inch records stars over 7 magnitudes fainter in the same exposure time.

F/ratio tells light density, but not total light from the subject,
and gathering total light from the subject is the all important factor in astrophotography, and that is controlled by clear aperture.

It is also true in regular photography. See my series on exposure:
http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/exposure/

Roger
Question, Roger, how many images does one have to stack with photos taken with a 4 inch telescope to get stars as faint as one can get with a single exposure taken with an 8 inch telescope? Thanks!
 
Roger,

I recall a while back S&T had an article regarding the impact of the secondary in the great refractor/reflector debate and the conclusion was a general rule of thumb that you subtract the diameter of the secondary from the overall mirror diameter to get the refractor equivalent. I am sure it had something to do with the amount of light thrown into the airy disk.

I will try to dig out the source article.
 
Roger,

I recall a while back S&T had an article regarding the impact of the secondary in the great refractor/reflector debate and the conclusion was a general rule of thumb that you subtract the diameter of the secondary from the overall mirror diameter to get the refractor equivalent. I am sure it had something to do with the amount of light thrown into the airy disk.

I will try to dig out the source article.
 
Roger,

I recall a while back S&T had an article regarding the impact of the secondary in the great refractor/reflector debate and the conclusion was a general rule of thumb that you subtract the diameter of the secondary from the overall mirror diameter to get the refractor equivalent. I am sure it had something to do with the amount of light thrown into the airy disk.

I will try to dig out the source article.
Steve, the Sky and Telescope articles you reference were discussed in this DPReview thread:

Refractor or Reflector – Which is “Best” for Astrophotography?

The articles themselves, entitled "Rules of Thumb for Planetary Scopes", are found in Sky and Telescope in the following locations:
  • August, 1993 pg. 91
  • September 1993, pg. 83
These articles are a great read.
 
when you need focal length really bad. like shooting the crab, ring, and other planetary nebula. as for visual observing, the more aperture the better, when you train the 26" 8000mm sct telescope my local observatory houses on the core of m31, the eyepiece becomes about as luminous as a small flashlight!
I would add to your comment the SCT becomes much more cost effective when the faintness of your subject and its small angular size requires larger aperture and longer focal length. Refractors, however great their images can be, are basically out of the question at apertures larger than 4-5 inches. Sure there are some who have great refractors at over 5 inch aperture. But we're talking about big bucks in that situation.

In my view in general refractors are very good for objects of larger angular size that won't fit in the FOV of the longer focal length (and larger aperture) SCT or Newtonian reflector. By that I don't mean you can't use a small refractor for smaller objects. You just will need to boost the focal length or crop a lot to get adequate image scale.

There are trade-offs with any design. Objects of different size and brightness will benefit from different focal lengths and apertures. The main characteristics of any optical system when used in astrophotography are:
  • Focal Length
  • Aperture (diameter)
  • Relative Aperture (f-ratio)
Refractors, SCT and Newts have different combinations of these characteristics, best suited to different objects and imaging budgets.
 
Thanks. I just got home from work and don't have to look them up now.

I was wondering whether they were specific to contrast and planetary viewing/imaging.
 

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