speedtron flashes

[baneling]

The lights are this model which I believe are older, but I dont' know how old:

http://www.speedotron.com/products/details/black_line/black_light_units/201/spec

as for safety, can I just use wireless triggers?

Start with the sunny 16 rule, and adjust your camera by looking at how sharp shadows are, for outdoors pictures.

Indoors with no flash, just use your experience to determine the ballpark, and then reshoot and look, reshoot and look, until you get your shot.

As for danger: if these are recent models, there's no need to worry too much, but you could take them to http://www.khbphotografix.com/ in Mississauga and get them checked out.

This company knows a lot about keeping flash units working properly. They did a repair on my Dynalite 1000 pack.

Go visit Chapters and look in the photography book section.

BAK

 

[Ellis Vener]

Here's one reason for hear lights aren't for you: you keep thinks by the flash head is the important part of the system. It's not. It's the pack that is more important.

 

[Ellis Vener]

Here's one reason for hear lights aren't for you: you keep thinks by the flash head is the important part of the system. It's not. It's the pack that is more important.

The 102A or 202VF heads will work with any Speedotron Blackline pack. The pack converts the AC current to DC current and stores it in capacitors. When the flash fires, the current flows in a 900 volt stream to the head. If the head isn't plugged in correctly the results are loud and damages the pack and the head.

Here's another reason: this system sounds like it has been sitting around, unused, for awhile. Flash systems need to be exercised regularly to stay healthy, if this system hasn't been you might not get the life out of them that you expect.

Another reason: unless you like wasting time , yes you do need a flash meter unless you plan to set up the lights the same way every time.

 

[baneling]

well i know now. but I know the power back is what controls the lights. the lights get plugged into the pack. the camera sends the signal to the power pack and the pack sends the current to the lights and the lights go flash. is that right?

Here's one reason for hear lights aren't for you: you keep thinks by the flash head is the important part of the system. It's not. It's the pack that is more important.

 

[baneling]

yes the seller did say he hasn't used them in 2 years. is that a long time?

Here's one reason for hear lights aren't for you: you keep thinks by the flash head is the important part of the system. It's not. It's the pack that is more important.

The 102A or 202VF heads will work with any Speedotron Blackline pack. The pack converts the AC current to DC current and stores it in capacitors. When the flash fires, the current flows in a 900 volt stream to the head. If the head isn't plugged in correctly the results are loud and damages the pack and the head.

Here's another reason: this system sounds like it has been sitting around, unused, for awhile. Flash systems need to be exercised regularly to stay healthy, if this system hasn't been you might not get the life out of them that you expect.

Another reason: unless you like wasting time , yes you do need a flash meter unless you plan to set up the lights the same way every time.

 

[Brooke Meyer]

well i know now. but I know the power back is what controls the lights. the lights get plugged into the pack. the camera sends the signal to the power pack and the pack sends the current to the lights and the lights go flash. is that right?

The magic of the internet allows mfr's to make their product manuals available to anyone for free! Speedtron Manuals

And in this age of free phone calls, you can always call them up and ask any questions the manual doesn't answer. They are expert on their products.

When I'm buy something I have no experience with, I download and read the manual before I buy. We read much faster than we type questions. And it's much cheaper than having to return something or discovering the product is impractical for your purpose.

When my camera bodies, lenses, meters, tungsten lights, monolights, flashes, triggers, light stands, background support, backgrounds, monitor calibration, digitizer, scanner, color checker, etc, etc, etc arrived, I knew how they worked before I opened the box. I read the manual.

All you have to do is read the manual. Its free!

In the case of lighting and regardless of gear, understanding exposure, light properties, light ratios and keys are essential. Without that, its a journey with neither a map or a destination.

There will always be inexpensive used gear available. It is not a silver bullet. The fact that you ask such basic questions suggest you aren't interested or curious enough to invest your time in learning how to use it and may believe that a few tips from the more experienced is all you need. There are no shortcuts and you will have to invest your time to learn and understand.

 

[BAK]

You write >>s for safety, can I just use wireless triggers?<< but wireless triggers have nothing to do with the shock-factor of pack-to-cable heads.

As for wireless triggers being usable, you still have not told us the model number of the power pack.

I also am curious, based on your other questions, whether you have the flash head model right. Why the thousand dollar head when there are $500 heads?

BAK

 

[baneling]

You write >>s for safety, can I just use wireless triggers?<< but wireless triggers have nothing to do with the shock-factor of pack-to-cable heads.

oh ok, I thought it was the shock factor of the pack to camera.

As for wireless triggers being usable, you still have not told us the model number of the power pack.

the seller doesn't have the model of the power pack. he said its rubbed off.

I also am curious, based on your other questions, whether you have the flash head model right. Why the thousand dollar head when there are $500 heads?

BAK

the link in my original post is what he gave me. he's had these for several years. do you have a rough idea as to when these lights were released?

 

[BAK]

Read the manual and pay attention to the ratio information.

Every time you press a ratio switch or button, the light output changes. Do you want to try to look at the back of the camera ten times to see various combinations of highlights and shadow and background? This is where a meter is valuable.

And yes, you can plug a wireless trigger into the sync cord socket, as long as power requirements match.

BAK

 

[Don89]

ok..

1 - dont buy. in over your head.

2 - buy the entire set, sell nothing. buy a meter and trigger/receiver. set it up using only ONE light for 6 months to a year and LEARN how to use one light. once you master everything about using one light, only then, add another light. mastering one light will get you to understand lighting. if you skip this step, you are lost. get humble and learn from every mistake you can. mistake number one is not using a meter.

3 - read. tons of free info on your unit and using lighting all over the internet.

4- stay humble and learn. set it up with one light and take pics at least weekly if not every day.

5 - if you jump to more then one light in the first 6 months, you will have stopped learning and started confusing yourself forever. practice with one light with all the light modifiers and reflectors you can. once you shoot with one light and make it look like you're shooting with two or more lights - then you might consider adding an additional light.

I just got back from an outdoor motorcycle/babe shoot using up to 6 lights. lit the bike separate from the model. every light had a job to do and was individually metered. each light had a modifier/reflector and grid except one. if I did not understand and control light from a single unit i'd be lost and have failed the shoot. i designed it all on paper a week before the shoot. f-stop, location, everything. each modifier and grid had a purpose.

learn from one light before you dare do anything else. its not sexy fumbling around with your lights and chimping each shot.

 

[Ellis Vener]

Pack to head cable arcing (usually caused by user error) is far more common than a pack to camera shock.

But old electronic flash gear tends to be a high voltage current and Canon cameras tend to have a lower threshold where the camera can be damaged than Nikon bodies.

"the seller doesn't have the model of the power pack. he said its rubbed off."

Get a photo of the pack . There were a couple of fairly obscure brands that also used Speedotron heads.

 

[BAK]

I'm starting to wonder.

I can't find any Blackline 800 WS units. All I find are Brownline.

The Speedotron logo and model number appear on the top and at least one side. How would they be rubbed off both places?

The $1000 flash head still makes no sense.

In a world of camera phones, it would not be hard to show us a photo of the real power pack, and the real flash heads, if they actually exist.

BAK

 

[Ellis Vener]

I'm starting to wonder.

I can't find any Blackline 800 WS units. All I find are Brownline.

http://www.adorama.com/SZ11245.html?discontinued=t

Speedotron on made a different version of the 800 w-s Blackline pack in the eighties. As I recall the major difference is that the newer pack has a rheostat to more finely control output. There were at least older two 800 w-s designs which looked different. On one of them the power was controlled with switches.

The Speedotron logo and model number appear on the top and at least one side. How would they be rubbed off both places?

yes that is weird.

The $1000 flash head still makes no sense.

no kidding.

In a world of camera phones, it would not be hard to show us a photo of the real power pack, and the real flash heads, if they actually exist.

agreed.

BAK

 

[BAK]

I missed that Blackline model.

Adorama sure are precise in their measurements, down to one one thousandths of an inch.: 4.375x7.185x8.625"

Anyway, I hope our original poster does not send any money until he knows more, for sure.

BAK

 

[Don89]

i'd not pay a cent until i saw and checked out the unit first hand. if theres no way to do it, caveat emptor...

would you buy anything like this sight unseen? think.

 

[baneling]

thanks everyone for all your input, I really appreciate it. I've decided to not buy the equipment. plus i'm saving up for a new camera.