Print glued to foam board is warping

John Little

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I used 3M General Purpose 45 photo-safe spray adhesive to glue a print (8x10, Canon Pro Luster paper) to acid-free 3/16" foam core. After about 5 days it's warping. Is that normal? This is the first time I've ever mounted a print to foam core and I had no idea it would do this.

I anticipate the question, "Why did you use that adhesive?" instead of some photo-specific adhesive and the answer is that the reviews are positive and it was available. I'd never heard of this stuff but the sprays I was looking for weren't available so I took what I could find.

Thanks
 
I anticipate the question, "Why did you use that adhesive?"
Why did you use that adhesive?

Seriously, I would NEVER glue a photo to anything. The photo and the substrate likely do not handle moisture at the same rate. Trouble. For me, I use only archival hinging tape to attach prints to mount board in two locations, allowing the print to essentially float. But, if you must permanently affix the print, you should have it dry mounted with dry mount tissue. Good luck.
 
A probable cause is moisture in the print or substrate. Prior to mounting, including dry mounting, it is imperative that both print and mount are dry!

A dry-mount press is the best way to dry the print and substrate prior to mounting. AND you must let the print ink dry for at least 24 hours before heating the print to dry it..

That said, I have used 3M mounting spray #77 (nasty stuff, BTW) with success without press-drying, but I may accept more "warping" than you do...

Some people are squeamish about heating the print, but I have not experienced problems.
 
well the propet way to mount any print is to matt or dry mount usually using contact adhesive and the print as well ad the backing must be throghly prepared dry and clean. since foam core usually won't change much the warping is likely a matter of the print itself.

and yes the 3M spray adhesive is not the best for this but its ok so long its done right so might be just do a 2nd try or better visit specialist art supply store for mounting specific needs
 
A probable cause is moisture in the print or substrate. Prior to mounting, including dry mounting, it is imperative that both print and mount are dry!

A dry-mount press is the best way to dry the print and substrate prior to mounting. AND you must let the print ink dry for at least 24 hours before heating the print to dry it..

That said, I have used 3M mounting spray #77 (nasty stuff, BTW) with success without press-drying, but I may accept more "warping" than you do...

Some people are squeamish about heating the print, but I have not experienced problems.
 
A probable cause is moisture in the print or substrate. Prior to mounting, including dry mounting, it is imperative that both print and mount are dry!

A dry-mount press is the best way to dry the print and substrate prior to mounting. AND you must let the print ink dry for at least 24 hours before heating the print to dry it..

That said, I have used 3M mounting spray #77 (nasty stuff, BTW) with success without press-drying, but I may accept more "warping" than you do...

Some people are squeamish about heating the print, but I have not experienced problems.
 
Well, a dry-mount press is out of the question, and the print was weeks old and in a house with central air, so it was about as dry as it could be without using something like a press to dry it. Guess I'll try a different paper/foam core combination.

Thanks, guys.
 
Well, a dry-mount press is out of the question, and the print was weeks old and in a house with central air, so it was about as dry as it could be without using something like a press to dry it. Guess I'll try a different paper/foam core combination.

Thanks, guys.
Have you considered using 1/8 inch Masonite Board. I use this for sizes 5 x 7 through 17 x 25 inch Photos with no issues. Also, I use 3M Super 77 Adhesive for mounting. Both work well with no problems with any of our mounted Photos over more than 10 years.
 
Well, a dry-mount press is out of the question, and the print was weeks old and in a house with central air, so it was about as dry as it could be without using something like a press to dry it. Guess I'll try a different paper/foam core combination.

Thanks, guys.
Have you considered using 1/8 inch Masonite Board. I use this for sizes 5 x 7 through 17 x 25 inch Photos with no issues. Also, I use 3M Super 77 Adhesive for mounting. Both work well with no problems with any of our mounted Photos over more than 10 years.
 
A probable cause is moisture in the print or substrate. Prior to mounting, including dry mounting, it is imperative that both print and mount are dry!

A dry-mount press is the best way to dry the print and substrate prior to mounting. AND you must let the print ink dry for at least 24 hours before heating the print to dry it..

That said, I have used 3M mounting spray #77 (nasty stuff, BTW) with success without press-drying, but I may accept more "warping" than you do...

Some people are squeamish about heating the print, but I have not experienced problems.
 
Well, a dry-mount press is out of the question, and the print was weeks old and in a house with central air, so it was about as dry as it could be without using something like a press to dry it. Guess I'll try a different paper/foam core combination.

Thanks, guys.
Have you considered using 1/8 inch Masonite Board. I use this for sizes 5 x 7 through 17 x 25 inch Photos with no issues. Also, I use 3M Super 77 Adhesive for mounting. Both work well with no problems with any of our mounted Photos over more than 10 years.
 
Have you tried Gator Board. I started to use it with my canvas printouts and to me it's great. I use 3/16" gator board, very easy to cut with a razor knife, very light ,rigid as a horse in heat and does not warp. The adhesive I use (roll on) is either Laminol or Miracle Muck. This combination works very well with canvas and I'm sure it will also work as well with paper media.

The only drawback with Gator Board, it is a little expensive.

Andrew
 
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I used 3M General Purpose 45 photo-safe spray adhesive to glue a print (8x10, Canon Pro Luster paper) to acid-free 3/16" foam core. After about 5 days it's warping. Is that normal? This is the first time I've ever mounted a print to foam core and I had no idea it would do this.

I anticipate the question, "Why did you use that adhesive?" instead of some photo-specific adhesive and the answer is that the reviews are positive and it was available. I'd never heard of this stuff but the sprays I was looking for weren't available so I took what I could find.

Thanks
Hi John,

I use foam core a lot for misplaying my prints in my studio. Some do warp when the season (and hence the humidity) changes, but most of the time, they are very well behave.

If warping bothers you too much, try the following trick. a) make sure your print and foam core are dry. b) Mount your print in the usual manner, and c), mount a dry blank paper (the same you used for the print) on the back side. This should take care of the warping business, and is certainly a lot less expensive (time and money wise) than switching to gator board or other stuff.

Hope this helps.

BillT
 
I've never seen foam board that doesn't eventually warp (unless it's 1/2" thick), especially if it's exposed to any degree of temperature or humidity changes. Gator Board is the best way to go for permanent high quality mounting, either using spray, dry mount or hanging. Masonite can work, but it's heavy and not archival.
 
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Spayed adhesive is a form of dry mounting, if it isn't a water based adhesive.

Gator will warp, but very rarely. Foam board, not matter what thickness is terrible stuff, but we all use it.

Masonite will also sometimes warp, and more often than Gator. But there are acid free equivalents to Masonite.

Brian A
 
Spayed adhesive is a form of dry mounting, if it isn't a water based adhesive.

Gator will warp, but very rarely. Foam board, not matter what thickness is terrible stuff, but we all use it.

Masonite will also sometimes warp, and more often than Gator. But there are acid free equivalents to Masonite.

Brian A
So, what is the best DIY alternative to foam core then that won't break the bank?
 
Spayed adhesive is a form of dry mounting, if it isn't a water based adhesive.

Gator will warp, but very rarely. Foam board, not matter what thickness is terrible stuff, but we all use it.

Masonite will also sometimes warp, and more often than Gator. But there are acid free equivalents to Masonite.

Brian A
So, what is the best DIY alternative to foam core then that won't break the bank?
 
Spayed adhesive is a form of dry mounting, if it isn't a water based adhesive.

Gator will warp, but very rarely. Foam board, not matter what thickness is terrible stuff, but we all use it.

Masonite will also sometimes warp, and more often than Gator. But there are acid free equivalents to Masonite.

Brian A
So, what is the best DIY alternative to foam core then that won't break the bank?
 
Spayed adhesive is a form of dry mounting, if it isn't a water based adhesive.

Gator will warp, but very rarely. Foam board, not matter what thickness is terrible stuff, but we all use it.

Masonite will also sometimes warp, and more often than Gator. But there are acid free equivalents to Masonite.

Brian A
So, what is the best DIY alternative to foam core then that won't break the bank?

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Canon 60D, Sigma 17-50mm 2.8, canon 18-200mm, 50mm 1.8, and 85mm 1.8
Foam core works fine as long as it's held rigidly within a frame, mat board and glass. It only fails if used by itself.
Well that's depressing then... Was planning on using is by itself for home use...

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Canon 60D, Sigma 17-50mm 2.8, canon 18-200mm, 50mm 1.8, and 85mm 1.8
But it also depends on what you're going to do with it at home. If it's sitting or hanging quietly, and you're not using it for a frisbee, it's fine. After all, it does fine sitting in your supply cabinet; it's not like it's going to fall apart. Then again, mine warped, so it just depends on what you want to do with it.
 

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