Df focusing screen swaps - sobering thoughts

[T O Shooter]

It takes me 90 seconds flat (maybe faster when I'm drunk) to change the focusing screen on my Df. No dust, no fingerprint. I even made a video of how I do it:

I shoot with the Noct-Nikkor which requires extreme accuracy at f/1.2. I use the EC-B Matte screen.. the Noct and all my glass are dead accurate on this focusing screen. I like how I can now preview my fast lenses' DOF on the viewfinder. I Love how the image pops in and out of focus SOOOO easily as I turn the ring. It's a little darker than the stock screen but the bokeh man.. seeing it on the viewfinder is just AMAZING.

I read about the need for shimming and gave up on it. Basically it's the same, in your case, as switching screens in the old FE style bodies. A couple of fellows on here turned it into a major operation. Like you said, 90 seconds. Do you leave the EC-B screen in for AF lenses or do you switch back and forth?

 

[steelhead3]

I change screens all the time on my Sony A900 (user friendly) but I have to go into the menu to reset the screen type for metering differences. Does the DF have that step?

 

[T O Shooter]

I change screens all the time on my Sony A900 (user friendly) but I have to go into the menu to reset the screen type for metering differences. Does the DF have that step?

We're not that far advanced

 

[Mark McCormick]

I find the green dot very accurate, more accurate than the split prism screen I have. The green dot is using the same PDAF information as the AF system uses, so to say that AF is more precise is just wrong. You may not be able to use it as precisely as an AF lens can, but that's not because of any lack of precision. The problem with it is it's hard to mentally focus on the composition and framing while looking at the green dot area to make sure focus is good.

Why didn't they provide the cue at the focus point on the screen? Probably because manual focus lenses do not make Nikon money, it isn't a priority.

I agree that it would be great if the focus point on the screen would show green when you'd locked focus so your eye could stay in that one critical place. Short of that I find the split prism screen a real help because I can much more quickly and easily get the focus extremely close while keeping the framing and composition front and center, and then just a quick glance at the green dot for that last bit of fine tuning.

It takes a bit of practice, but I found I could learn to see the green confirmation light change in my peripheral vision without having to glance at it directly. For me the trick was to always approach the green confirmation light from the same focusing direction. By that I mean I will visually or zone focus the lens close but still near focused initially, then move the focusing ring just a little more while looking for the switch from the arrow light to the green dot without actually glancing down at it. Again, take a bit of practice, but I got good at it. That said, I do wish Nikon would allow the focus points to light up as an option when using manual lenses. That would be best of all worlds and only require a camera firmware update to accomplish, IMHO.

Also, with either my 25mm Zeiss f2.0, or my 28mm f2.8 AIS Nikkor lens, I find I can handle candid photography really easily by setting auto ISO, setting for f5.6 or f8, zone focus using the focusing scale on the lens, then when the action gets interesting I just lift the camera quickly and fire off a shot or two. the critical focus success rate is astonishing high on the Df when using that technique, and when shooting fast paced scenes, it's actually way faster than waiting for autofocus to kick in.

best,
Mark

--
Mark McCormick

 

[TOF guy]

Interesting video, thank you.

It's definitely way easier on the Df than other Nikon dSLRs. My comments do not apply to the Df.

 

[jcvjcvjcvjcv]

Forget about touching the focusing screen... what about the mirror...

I got my used D810 with part of a fingerprint near the upper edge of the focusing screen. I wish I never touched it. That thing is hard to clean, very easy to damage and is indeed a dust sucker. Dust on both sides!

You can buy a new one for about 35 bucks though.

For MF; use Live view.

 

[leicabiker]

Interesting how polarized the responses are to the idea of swapping screens, some saying it's dead easy and definitely beneficial and some saying don't do it's a nightmare with no upside. All comments made in good faith, I'm sure - but it doesn't help the uninformed (me) to make a decision!!!!

 

[regos]

I am one of the people who had a very bad experience changing the screen of my Df. I had posted earlier in this thread about how easy it is to do, based on me having changed screens before in a D7000 and a D700. After my post I received the screen and went to install it, thinking, piece of cake. Wrong. I had forgotten how I did it earlier, so I referred to the instructions provided by focusingscreens.com. Those instructions are misleading and confusing, as well as being written in very unclear English. Long story short, I scratched the new screen, smudged the prism and could not replace the shims. I gave up before I did more damage. I ordered a new screen (the scratch made the old one unusable, a loss of $108). When the new screen came I took it to a good camera repair facility to install, which they did for $20. Unfortunately their expert installation was also defective, as the new screen was not seated properly, which I pointed out to them. The center auto focusing spot should fall in the middle of the split; on mine it was below it. They re did it, with the same results. Both the technician and I thought that it was as good as it could be and I accepted it. Took it home for more tests and found the screen backfocused noticeably. Back to the repair place (a 3 hour drive, round trip, from my house) where I had to leave it this time, along with the extra shims that were included with the screen. Several days later I returned (another 3 hour round trip, the third) and finally, for another $40, I have a Df with a split image screen that is properly seated (maybe a different tech worked on it) and properly calibrated.

After all that, I have to say I really enjoy shooting with the split image screen, all my old Ai converted and non Ai lenses are fully useable, and I finally have the Nikon DSLR that I always wanted!

 

[xtm]

It takes me 90 seconds flat (maybe faster when I'm drunk) to change the focusing screen on my Df. No dust, no fingerprint. I even made a video of how I do it:

I shoot with the Noct-Nikkor which requires extreme accuracy at f/1.2. I use the EC-B Matte screen.. the Noct and all my glass are dead accurate on this focusing screen. I like how I can now preview my fast lenses' DOF on the viewfinder. I Love how the image pops in and out of focus SOOOO easily as I turn the ring. It's a little darker than the stock screen but the bokeh man.. seeing it on the viewfinder is just AMAZING.

I read about the need for shimming and gave up on it. Basically it's the same, in your case, as switching screens in the old FE style bodies. A couple of fellows on here turned it into a major operation. Like you said, 90 seconds. Do you leave the EC-B screen in for AF lenses or do you switch back and forth?

 

[xtm]

Interesting video, thank you.

It's definitely way easier on the Df than other Nikon dSLRs. My comments do not apply to the Df.

 

[xtm]

As someone who regularly swaps Df screens (I have the Stock screen, a Matte EC-B, and Split) I must offer my advice to anyone who wants to embark on such a challenge.

First off, check my video above.. it takes me roughly 90 seconds to install a screen. The key is FAMILIARIZING youself first with the inner workings of the Df.. meaning, you don't want to fumble around when the stock focusing is out and the dust can seep in. You want to learn where the spring clip is, the entry point, how to orient the shims, etc BEFORE starting.

Next, if you're purchasing from focusingscreen.com, I say disregard that instruction "manual" they provide, as it is close to useless. DO NOT under any circumstance, use that metal tongs they provide to handle your focusing screen as it will scratch it. Use the plastic clipper thingy, but even better if you can use your fingers (with the rubber condom gloves that they provide) which brings us to the next point........

WASH YOUR HANDS thoroughly before starting. Once you put some oil on that matte screen, you'll be on the hook for another 30 minutes of cleaning that smudge. Here's a tip - I use alcohol and Q-tip and VERY CAREFULLY clean off the smudges in a light, circular fashion. Use a clean rocket blower to dry it off. Treat it as if you're a neurosurgeon and you're working on some dude's open brain. 1 dust and your patient is dead! So prevent dust as much as possible.

Ok, the shims... some Df's need shims, some don't. The procedure is... put no shim, test. Focus is off? Add 1 shim, put a lens, test. Still backfocusing? Put 2 shims, put back the focusing screen, then test. It's important to know that the STOCK DF shim is (my estimate) 1.25x thicker than the focusingscreen.com shims, meaning you can combine them to get the most accurate focusing as needed.

The ONLY time you'll use the metal tweezer is when you're laying down the shims.. DO NOT EVER USE it to handle the screen itself!

To summarize:

Work slowly and patiently. Plan in advance and familiarize the nooks and crannies of the Df. Use the provided finger condoms. Don't use the metal tweezer to handle the screen, and wash your hands thoroughly. Lay out the shims with metal tweezer and experiment with focusing.

 

[leicabiker]

Thanks xtm. Good advice & your vid does make it look straightforward. One question - at the beginning, after removing the the lens, how is the focus screen housing released? You seem to just flick it up with your finger?

 

[RichRMA]

The fact this conversation even needs to be heard proves that the aging DSLR is rapidly becoming anachronistic. Despite continued dominance (when they are calibrated and working) in the AF realm, DSLRs and their optical viewfinders have fallen so far back of modern EVF's that the idea of trying to secure accurate manual focus except in the most perfect conditions (daylight) is daunting, especially when 24-50mp images are on the line. The depth of perfect focus is so razor thin with high-quality fast lenses today, I'm amazed that people using optical viewfinders can ever really achieve it. Kudos to them.

 

[leicabiker]

The fact this conversation even needs to be heard proves that the aging DSLR is rapidly becoming anachronistic. Despite continued dominance (when they are calibrated and working) in the AF realm, DSLRs and their optical viewfinders have fallen so far back of modern EVF's that the idea of trying to secure accurate manual focus except in the most perfect conditions (daylight) is daunting, especially when 24-50mp images are on the line. The depth of perfect focus is so razor thin with high-quality fast lenses today, I'm amazed that people using optical viewfinders can ever really achieve it. Kudos to them.

My experience of manual focusing with EVFs and LCDs is limited but it didn't suggest to me that it achieves a more accurate result than a dSLR. Looking at an LCD in bright sunlight (the ones I've used anyway) has limitations and focus peaking on an EVF seems ok but no better than a dSLR. I haven't used the latest (Sony?) mirrorless - you are saying that MF is considerably improved in this new generation of cameras?

Even if dSLRs aren't ideally suited to manual focus I'm not sure it demonstrates that they are anachronistic. The vast majority of buyers keep 'em on AF - it's only a small minority who would even care about MF capability. I don't doubt that mirrors will disappear one day...but I don't think it will be because of manual focus issues.

 

[ravduc]

Seems like a lot of trouble and risk of damaging the camera; yet not not being able to be sure that it will MF more accurately than the stock focusing screen used in conjunction with the green dot and a Nikon magnifier. And, what about AF accuracy once that screen has been changed?

 

[steelhead3]

AF shouldn't be affected but metering definitely is

 

[jcvjcvjcvjcv]

It takes me 90 seconds flat (maybe faster when I'm drunk) to change the focusing screen on my Df. No dust, no fingerprint. I even made a video of how I do it:

I shoot with the Noct-Nikkor which requires extreme accuracy at f/1.2. I use the EC-B Matte screen.. the Noct and all my glass are dead accurate on this focusing screen. I like how I can now preview my fast lenses' DOF on the viewfinder. I Love how the image pops in and out of focus SOOOO easily as I turn the ring. It's a little darker than the stock screen but the bokeh man.. seeing it on the viewfinder is just AMAZING.

Uhuu. So now you have fingerprints or parts of [..] on both the focussing screens. Likely in addition to dust... perhaps on both sides.

 

[RichRMA]

The fact this conversation even needs to be heard proves that the aging DSLR is rapidly becoming anachronistic. Despite continued dominance (when they are calibrated and working) in the AF realm, DSLRs and their optical viewfinders have fallen so far back of modern EVF's that the idea of trying to secure accurate manual focus except in the most perfect conditions (daylight) is daunting, especially when 24-50mp images are on the line. The depth of perfect focus is so razor thin with high-quality fast lenses today, I'm amazed that people using optical viewfinders can ever really achieve it. Kudos to them.

My experience of manual focusing with EVFs and LCDs is limited but it didn't suggest to me that it achieves a more accurate result than a dSLR. Looking at an LCD in bright sunlight (the ones I've used anyway) has limitations and focus peaking on an EVF seems ok but no better than a dSLR. I haven't used the latest (Sony?) mirrorless - you are saying that MF is considerably improved in this new generation of cameras?

Even if dSLRs aren't ideally suited to manual focus I'm not sure it demonstrates that they are anachronistic. The vast majority of buyers keep 'em on AF - it's only a small minority who would even care about MF capability. I don't doubt that mirrors will disappear one day...but I don't think it will be because of manual focus issues.

Forget LCD's, they'll likely never be good enough to use in sunlight. You don't need focus peaking on modern EVF's as the resolution is such that you know by eye when best focus is achieved, especially when one touch can increase magnification from 2 to 14x.

 

[xtm]

Thanks xtm. Good advice & your vid does make it look straightforward. One question - at the beginning, after removing the the lens, how is the focus screen housing released? You seem to just flick it up with your finger?

There is a metal retaining clip that you just flick out of the tiny plastic tab with your fingernail. DO NOT use any metal tool with this, you do't really need to.

 

[xtm]

It takes me 90 seconds flat (maybe faster when I'm drunk) to change the focusing screen on my Df. No dust, no fingerprint. I even made a video of how I do it:

I shoot with the Noct-Nikkor which requires extreme accuracy at f/1.2. I use the EC-B Matte screen.. the Noct and all my glass are dead accurate on this focusing screen. I like how I can now preview my fast lenses' DOF on the viewfinder. I Love how the image pops in and out of focus SOOOO easily as I turn the ring. It's a little darker than the stock screen but the bokeh man.. seeing it on the viewfinder is just AMAZING.

Uhuu. So now you have fingerprints or parts of [..] on both the focussing screens. Likely in addition to dust... perhaps on both sides.

no