-
Welcome to the new forums! Please read this first. For known issues we are working to resolve, click here.
Nikon DF and manual-focus lenses (after adjustment)
- Thread starter philosomatographer
- Start date
Just buy the very small one's at a hardware store. They do protect the camera against wear caused by the metal strap rings. Install them first around the lugs and then install the strap rings on the lugs. Once installed, you won't even notice them.
Last edited:
philosomatographer
Leading Member
I received and fitted my focusingscreen.com Df S-type focusing screen (made from the Canon Ec-S high-recision matte screen).
Ovbiously the viewfinder is really dark compared to my Nikon F, F2, and the contrast is visibly softer than the stock screen, but focusing accuracy seems to be superb. Depth of field is accurately shown for fast lenses (1.4, 2.0) and it's especially useful in good light.
This screen highlighted the fact that Nikon still didn't shim the focus screen in my Df accurately (still had a tiny bit of back-focus, masked by the deep field shown by the stock screen), and I had to add another shim, but manual focusing is now surprisingly accurate.
All my ad-hoc tests shooting a fast 50mm wide open, focusing on e.g. a portrait's eyelashes far away from the centre of the frame, appears spot-on. I'll post some examples later on.
It's wonderful to be using one of the great 50mm lenses in history - the Nikkor-H.C. 50mm f/2 from the 1960s - on a sensor with the dynamic range to match black and white film for all intents and purposes, and to be able to focus it accurately.
This camera (especially in black) is much prettier in person than what it appears in pictures. I think it's a severe mistake to put the stupid locks on the dials - as opposed to just making solid, stiff, dials like e.g. the Fujis and Leicas have - but its a mean, compact, image-making machine otherwise.
Nikon Df, Zeiss Makro-Planar 2/100, processed in Darktable
Ovbiously the viewfinder is really dark compared to my Nikon F, F2, and the contrast is visibly softer than the stock screen, but focusing accuracy seems to be superb. Depth of field is accurately shown for fast lenses (1.4, 2.0) and it's especially useful in good light.
This screen highlighted the fact that Nikon still didn't shim the focus screen in my Df accurately (still had a tiny bit of back-focus, masked by the deep field shown by the stock screen), and I had to add another shim, but manual focusing is now surprisingly accurate.
All my ad-hoc tests shooting a fast 50mm wide open, focusing on e.g. a portrait's eyelashes far away from the centre of the frame, appears spot-on. I'll post some examples later on.
It's wonderful to be using one of the great 50mm lenses in history - the Nikkor-H.C. 50mm f/2 from the 1960s - on a sensor with the dynamic range to match black and white film for all intents and purposes, and to be able to focus it accurately.
This camera (especially in black) is much prettier in person than what it appears in pictures. I think it's a severe mistake to put the stupid locks on the dials - as opposed to just making solid, stiff, dials like e.g. the Fujis and Leicas have - but its a mean, compact, image-making machine otherwise.
Nikon Df, Zeiss Makro-Planar 2/100, processed in Darktable
I just installed an Ec-B screen from focusingscreen.com in my DF. I was afraid I'd really effed up the camera because when I thought I was taking out the original screen, it turns out I took the metal clip out - ALL the way out. So then I took the original screen out and the little clear sheet that was below it - not sure if that was a standard shim or what it's for - and very painstakingly reinserted the clip. Very tiny holes that the ends of that thing fits into in the back of the camera - I needed a LOT of light to see well enough to get it back in. But once I did, I was fully acquainted with the inside of the DF's cavity and getting the clear shim and the new screen in was a breeze, and clipping it back in place.
And DAMN, what a difference! I never had any trouble focussing with the stock screen in the DF, but having that split screen bit in the middle, like with my old film SLRs, increases the ease of manual focusing enormously. And it seems that the stock shim (if that's what it was) that was in the camera was perfect for use with the new screen too. Focusingscreens.com included another shim in their package if you need it, but mine is spot on without it. The lines come together at exactly the same point the green dot comes on. So using the split screen and then noting the green dot out of the corner of my eye makes the process notably easier than with the stock DF screen, where I was paying closer attention to the green dot since using the screen itself seemed less precise.
If anyone is thinking about changing out the focus screen in your Nikon, I absolutely recommend doing it. I'd been thinking about it for a while, and finally bit the bullet after reading through this thread. Extremely glad I did. Maybe now I'll start saving for that Zeiss 135 I've wanted but didn't have enough confidence that I'd be able to use effectively.
-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
And DAMN, what a difference! I never had any trouble focussing with the stock screen in the DF, but having that split screen bit in the middle, like with my old film SLRs, increases the ease of manual focusing enormously. And it seems that the stock shim (if that's what it was) that was in the camera was perfect for use with the new screen too. Focusingscreens.com included another shim in their package if you need it, but mine is spot on without it. The lines come together at exactly the same point the green dot comes on. So using the split screen and then noting the green dot out of the corner of my eye makes the process notably easier than with the stock DF screen, where I was paying closer attention to the green dot since using the screen itself seemed less precise.
If anyone is thinking about changing out the focus screen in your Nikon, I absolutely recommend doing it. I'd been thinking about it for a while, and finally bit the bullet after reading through this thread. Extremely glad I did. Maybe now I'll start saving for that Zeiss 135 I've wanted but didn't have enough confidence that I'd be able to use effectively.
-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
Digital Shutterbug
Veteran Member
Thanks, Ray. I've been kicking the idea around, but hesitant to jump in there and maybe do what you did (or worse). Did you get instructions with the screen that were helpful? The website makes me nervous about anything they print in English.
BrianHalcYoN
Leading Member
I used the green dot and live view to dial in the shimming. I, too, needed one shim from the packaging. I have yet to install my new ones. #soon
Except for my own stupid mistake, it was really pretty easy. The English in their instructions is a bit tortured, but the pictures on their site (which is where the install instructions are) are clear enough. It's a little scary going in for the first time, but once you've done it, you realize it's really quite simple and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. It should have been blatantly obvious to me that I was pulling the little wire clamp out rather than the screen, but somehow it wasn't. I'm quite sure you wouldn't make that mistake twice! And it was a mild pain in the rear to get it back in place, but if I could do it, it's not like it's a highly technical exercise! Most half-way observant people wouldn't make that mistake...
The shimming and focus adjustment instructions weren't all that clear, but I guess I was lucky - mine was dead on without using any of their provided shims. I mean, if I focus on a vertical line, the dual lines become one precisely as the green dot comes on. The lines stay together over a slightly larger amount of focus change than the green dot stays on, so I guess the green dot is slightly more precise. But from my initial tests, the split circle is precise enough. And I guess if you're focussing on something without enough lines or contrast to be able to discern the split circle, then the green dot is a good fallback...
I'd go for it. I'm not particularly good at this type of thing - I'm just generally willing to give it a shot. And once you get in there and get it all apart once, it's not difficult to get it all back in place...
-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
Jzpunltd
Well-known member
I ordered mine and waiting for delivery. A better Translation would always be appreciated.
ImageAmateur
Veteran Member
Glad it is working for you. I have a couple of questions.
- the S Type is a full matte screen, no split prism, correct? Why did you choose this one?
From reading above, S Type can focus anywhere on the screen, are the screens with the Split prism, say the K3, harder to focus in non central (away from prism) areas, do you know?
Just how dark are we talking re the screen, compared to stock? Can you still see clothes textures and colors, landscape flowers and leaves etc easily in twilight?
Thank you!
--
Wishing You Good Light.
Last edited:
philosomatographer
Leading Member
Because it's a special high-precision, fine-grained matte screen that shows the actual DOF of a lens at f/1.4, unlike most screens. I can visibly see the difference when I stop a f/1.4 down to 2.0. The stock Df screen shows almost no difference between f/1.4 and f/2.8.
I remember this screen from they days when I used Canon (up to 2008), and it's great.
Most of the split prism screens have a matte area similar to the stock Df screen. Brighter and more contrasty, but less accurate - only showing f/2.8 DOF. The screens in my old F and F2 are perfect though, don't know why such heights can seemingly never be achieved again, 50 years later?
I certainly can. Difficult to explain, but the Ec-S screen is definitely dimmer, and less contrasty, than the stock screen. But it's really accurate, showing the precise location of the focus plane. Requires good eyesight, and a properly calibrated (shimmed) screen though.
I need to adjust the shims in mine - it's out by a tiny amount, front-focusing by about 10cm at a distance of 10m with my 100mm f/2.0. This screen is so accurate, you can actually see that, whereas you wouldn't with the stock screen.
Give it a try. If you don't damage your stock screen when you take it out, you can always put it back
My pleasure!
Digital Shutterbug
Veteran Member
nt
ImageAmateur
Veteran Member
Lol.... for sure. When my D610 arrives, I will see how my MF lenses do and if I really enjoy the results, I surely will try the S screen for regular use.Because it's a special high-precision, fine-grained matte screen that shows the actual DOF of a lens at f/1.4, unlike most screens. I can visibly see the difference when I stop a f/1.4 down to 2.0. The stock Df screen shows almost no difference between f/1.4 and f/2.8.
I remember this screen from they days when I used Canon (up to 2008), and it's great.
Most of the split prism screens have a matte area similar to the stock Df screen. Brighter and more contrasty, but less accurate - only showing f/2.8 DOF. The screens in my old F and F2 are perfect though, don't know why such heights can seemingly never be achieved again, 50 years later?
I certainly can. Difficult to explain, but the Ec-S screen is definitely dimmer, and less contrasty, than the stock screen. But it's really accurate, showing the precise location of the focus plane. Requires good eyesight, and a properly calibrated (shimmed) screen though.
I need to adjust the shims in mine - it's out by a tiny amount, front-focusing by about 10cm at a distance of 10m with my 100mm f/2.0. This screen is so accurate, you can actually see that, whereas you wouldn't with the stock screen.
Give it a try. If you don't damage your stock screen when you take it out, you can always put it back
One more query, how is it when you use your AF lenses (i.e. I know its a different optical path, but can you see the scene in the viewfinder okay)? Or do you not use any AF lenses with it? That might decide if I try the S Screen or the Split Prism for MF assist (not a fan of the green dot as a default).
Thanks!
Much thanks, thank you for the detailed explanations!!
Have a lovely evening.
--
Wishing You Good Light.
Last edited:
No impact on AF in either direction. Except you might not use it as much...
-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
Wish I'd seen that before I tried doing it. I think I was anticipating it being much more difficult than it was, and so I MADE it much more difficult than it needed to be. I also used the various tools they provided with the kit to open the little metal clip and to remove/replace the screen. I can see doing it by hand is just as effective and probably easier...
-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
Digital Shutterbug
Veteran Member
I've heard that it will impact metering w/ flash pretty significantly. I don't know if that's true or not. With a Df, that would mean if you were using an external flash.
helltormentor
Leading Member
Keyboard shortcuts
- f
- Forum