flash advice

[wanger]

Hi.

I'm very inexperienced when it comes to flash photography but I think it's time I got experienced

I shoot medium format (gw690, rb67) and occasionally digital (5dII)

I have an older flash that I have used occasionally with the gw690. I'm now looking for something that has a variable output. I need more control.

I would like to be able to use the flash on my 5d and use TTL for very quick use. whilst also using it with my film cameras

I know older flashes can't be used on newer cameras without breaking them. Does this work both ways and will a newer flash work with the older systems? I can shoot via sync cable or wirelessly if needs be.

I'm also looking for a lightmeter that can measure the flash.

when shooting medium format I'm going to need some accuracy and don't really want to be setting my 5d, shooting a test, and then plugging things into my film systems just to take a shot accurately. so a lightmeter is going to be needed

so essentially - flash recommendation with TTL and variable power output, that will work with 5dII and rb67. and a light meter to help me measure without having to switch between digital and film!

Of course, i'm looking to spend as little money as possible!

Thanks

 

[DuaneV]

I know older flashes can't be used on newer cameras without breaking them. Does this work both ways and will a newer flash work with the older systems? I can shoot via sync cable or wirelessly if needs be.

I've used Nikon SB-16's (circa the EARLY '80's) on a D800 no problem. Its not the age that matters, its the voltage that matters.

 

[PenPix]

Hi.

I'm very inexperienced when it comes to flash photography but I think it's time I got experienced

I shoot medium format (gw690, rb67) and occasionally digital (5dII)

I have an older flash that I have used occasionally with the gw690. I'm now looking for something that has a variable output. I need more control.

I would like to be able to use the flash on my 5d and use TTL for very quick use. whilst also using it with my film cameras

I know older flashes can't be used on newer cameras without breaking them. Does this work both ways and will a newer flash work with the older systems? I can shoot via sync cable or wirelessly if needs be.

Don't bother with long cables… I was fortunate to catch my light stand before it could hit the ground when I stretched the cable too far! Now I use Pocket Wizards with everything, old and new.

BTW, I use a Vivitar 285HV flash with my D200 all the time. Nothing has blown up yet. Make sure everything is off before attaching or removing it.

I'm also looking for a lightmeter that can measure the flash.

when shooting medium format I'm going to need some accuracy and don't really want to be setting my 5d, shooting a test, and then plugging things into my film systems just to take a shot accurately. so a lightmeter is going to be needed

ANY flash meter will work. Do a few test to make sure the suggest reading gives you the correct exposure. Some higher end meters will allow you to input correction values, but I know that I need to drop my exposure by 1/2 stop to get the exposure I want. It will vary with the camera and lens combination you are using.

I have been using Sekonic for decades, but that's because it's easily available where I live.

so essentially - flash recommendation with TTL and variable power output, that will work with 5dII and rb67. and a light meter to help me measure without having to switch between digital and film!

I'm not familiar with the Canon flashes (430 and 600), but if they are anything like my Nikon SB-700 or Metz 58, they can be operated manually. Yonguno is a Chinese brand that has good feedback and 1/2 price of the major names.

Of course, i'm looking to spend as little money as possible!

Buy used?

Thanks

 

[Sailor Blue]

The problem with older hot-shoe flash units and new digital cameras is that the older flash units used to short the high voltage capacitor through the camera to make the flash fire. The high voltage discharge from the old flash units would fry the electronics of a digital camera.

New flash units use a low voltage trigger so you shouldn't have a problem (no guarantee) using a new low voltage flash units with an older camera as long as the flash will fit the hot-shoe. A new TTL flash, however, would be limited to Manual flash power control on the RB67.

For your 5D II you can use a Canon 430EX II, a used Canon 580EX II (out of production), the Canon 600EX RT or various third party flashes to give you E-TTL capabilities. You should then be able to use the same flash on the RB67 as long as the hot-shoe of the flash fits and the center pin and the metal surround make contact.

Speedlights.net | Canon 430EX II Speedlite Flash Review

Speedlights.net | Canon Speedlite 580EX II Flash Review

Review – Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT « Canon Rumors

For third party E-TTL flash units look at the Nissin Di622 II, the Nissin Di866 II which are about the same professional quality as the Canon flash units. For amateur use there is the Yongnuo YN-500EX and YN-568EX II and those from several other companies.

Speedlights.net | Nissin Flash Review: Di622-II (flash for Canon / Nikon)

Speedlights.net | Nissin Di866 II (Mark 2) | Speedlights.net

FLASH HAVOC - YongNuo YN-500EX – Mini – TTL and HSS Flash – Review

FLASH HAVOC - YongNuo YN-568EX II – for Canon (and Nikon) Review

For a meter I recommend the Sekonic L-308 if all you want to do is measure flash (only shutter priority measurement). If you can find a good used L-358 (discontinued) it is a better meter and good for both ambient and flash since it has both shutter and aperture priority modes. The new L-486 is even better with a very easy to use touch screen. For spot measurements go to the L-758.

Sekonic > Products > Exposure Meters

Gossen also makes very good meters. The Digipro F2 is a very nice meter and for spot measurements Gossen has the Starlite 2.

GOSSEN Foto- und Lichtmesstechnik

 

[ScratchDisk]

Quote from Chuck Westfall: Canon DSLRs from the 20D onwards should be safe up to 250V.

That includes your 5D II.

(Note Powershot units are excluded.)

Some old flash units exceded 300V !! - see:

The Botzilla Strobes Page

I use and really like 580ExIIs, old 550Exs and trigger using the sublimely reliable Odin and Mitros+ system. You would need ?Yn 603 Mk II triggers for the RB67 and remember to disable 'Sleep' on its networked Speedlites.

A Sekonic 308 is basic and useable.

 

[BAK]

Several thoughts.

I don't remember a hotshoe on an RB67. What I remember is the need to plug a sync cord into the lens.

If you spend lots of money, you can attach a Pocket Wizard to the camera body, and a short cord from PW to the sync terminal on the lens.

I can't remember if the Fuji has a hot shoe. I never used little flashes with mine, and I plugged in my Dynalights via the sync terminal.

PROBLEM: lots of modern flash guns have no sync terminal, so you can't use a cord from flash to Fuji or RB67.

You can buy adapters that fit under the flash gun, and accepts a sync cord.

As mentioned TTL has no way of working with the Fuji or Mamiya. But some flash guns have an A or Automatic setting that is not TTL, and works pretty well.

With A, light goes from flash to subject, bounces back to a sensor in the flash unit (not in the camera where TTL is) and the flash turns itself off when enough light has illuminated the subject. Generally works amazingly well, depending on angles, etc.

Flash meters work fine with manual flash guns, but become troublesome with E-TTL and A for Automatic. Check if a flash can be set for full manual, and check if there is a socket for a sync cord.

BAK

 

[Sailor Blue]

Several thoughts.

I don't remember a hotshoe on an RB67. What I remember is the need to plug a sync cord into the lens.

If you spend lots of money, you can attach a Pocket Wizard to the camera body, and a short cord from PW to the sync terminal on the lens.

I can't remember if the Fuji has a hot shoe. I never used little flashes with mine, and I plugged in my Dynalights via the sync terminal.

PROBLEM: lots of modern flash guns have no sync terminal, so you can't use a cord from flash to Fuji or RB67.

Sounds like a good reason to buy the Nissin Di866 II flash.

The Di866 II has a PC port and it unlike the Canon flash units it has a built-in optical trigger so they don't require the use of a Canon Master Flash to make them flash. This means it is easy to use a Di866 II with studio strobes if desired.

You can buy adapters that fit under the flash gun, and accepts a sync cord.

As mentioned TTL has no way of working with the Fuji or Mamiya. But some flash guns have an A or Automatic setting that is not TTL, and works pretty well.

With A, light goes from flash to subject, bounces back to a sensor in the flash unit (not in the camera where TTL is) and the flash turns itself off when enough light has illuminated the subject. Generally works amazingly well, depending on angles, etc.

The Di866 II has a full Manual mode where you set the flash power manually on the back of the flsh units.

The Di-866 II also has an Av mode where, "The flash light is automatically controlled by the photo sensor built-in the flash unit instead of TTL metering." The Av mode is a simple TTL system that is built into the Di-866 II flash.

Flash meters work fine with manual flash guns, but become troublesome with E-TTL and A for Automatic. Check if a flash can be set for full manual, and check if there is a socket for a sync cord.

Flash meters read the first flash of light so they simply don't work with TTL of any type.

BAK