Nikon Df - One Year Later

Shotcents

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Now that most of the noise has died down and the Df has found a stabile audience, perhaps it's time to re-evaluate the Df as it now faces competition from newer models.

IQ - This camera has the best IQ over the widest possible ISO range of ANY Nikon DSLR made and achieves this in a small and quiet body. Only the D4s is of this caliber, and I wouldn't buy that over the Df because the huge size is a deal breaker for me (and many others).

D750 vs. Df - The d750 is my "new" favorite, but it does not replace the Df. It still isn't as good at high ISO and just doesn't offer the kind of handling connection that the Df offers to its fans. On the other hand I do suggest the D750 over the D810 as it does too many things better for more applications, while the D810 really only enjoys a single advantage that serves a smaller group.

FOCUS - A year later I now know that my Df rarely missed focus, but that is based on my usage. I also had no trouble with a D600 AF and even my D5100, D5200, and D5300 got the job done. I've used the Df at events with no troubles, but I was a pro doing fashion shows, I'd want a D4s for the speed and focus combined. In that venue I'd put up with the size of the D4s. As for manual focus, as people like Bjorn Rorslett and Thom Hogan made clear, the Df will net more keepers. Images DO snap into focus better with the Df, but people who don't do much MF won't see much difference. It's a small, but welcome upgrade.

ERGONOMICS - I think a lot of people don't understand that proper ergonomics are not written in stone, especially when it comes to using an artistic tool. This is where the Df generates considerable controversey, as many of the elements of the Df that are a hindrance to some shooters, are of benefit to others. But if you examine the nay-sayers on this topic, you'll notice the majority are not owners, thus never really learned the camera. Still, if the grip of the Df seems lacking, adding a case or the new Nikon designed grip may be all you need.

SUMMARY - So the question is this? Would I buy a Df today in the wake of cameras like the D750 and D810? The answer is YES, but there are some qualifications. My Df is my personal camera. I don't use it for jobs very often. I treat it like a expensive watch. It's in my "B" kit with its own lenses and flash. My D800 is the hammer. It's used for jobs more and I treat it like a tool and nothing more. I can use it smoothly, but I have minimal connection to it because it somehow feels like less of a "camera" to me. As Df owners keep pointing out, the Df helps that accomplish a different level of shooting. It's not always a BETTER level, but different means a lot these days. Until the next Df is released, this is a unique camera and pure enjoyment to use. But if everyone else felt the same way, it would be...A D750 or D810, just another great DSLR from Nikon.

And that's the whole point of the Df; to offer a different shooting experience to SOME. Nikon's somewhat pretentious marketing campaign was actually right on the money. The faster modern car is not always the better car for everyone. Some of us enjoy the shape of MGs, Challengers and old Thunderbirds, along with the specifics of their handling and feel. Sometimes you just love the way something can work with you that defies mere specification. As a writer, sailor and photographer, I know this all too well.

Cheers and happy shooting!

Robert
 
Last night I saw that Nikon came out with the additional grip plate which sealed the decision to acquire a Df again.
Yes; only $130 for a grip without any electronics. Nikon treats us so well!

Nikon-DF-GR1-camera-grip-550x206.jpg






It is rather pricey.

But it was not cheap to design, develop, test and market. It's also not an item expected to sell in large quantity, thus profits will be less than on grips for a D750.

130 bucks isn't crazy. I'll probably try one at some point.



Robert
 
Shotcents wrote:I always enjoy the car analogies!
take the locks off the dials, give me the AF assist light and make the whole camera just a bit smaller. If they up the MP of the sensor on the Df2, make sure it can do what the Df can or get very very close.
No no no, and no. It's like people never used a manual focus Nikon SLR before. OK, first of all, the ISO speed dial always has a lock on it on a Nikon manual focus SLR. Why? Because you set your ISO and forget it when shooting film. You generally don't need to change it while shooting.

On the Df you have all these dials. OK so you set your base ISO. Now go in and set up Auto ISO and set your Max ISO. Now you have this all ready. You can also tell the camera what you would like to use as your minimum shutter speed. I leave mine set to Auto, which means the shutter speed varies based on the focal length (it is generally 1/focal length, which works well for me). The cool part is you can change the camera from A or P (whichever you use) in to M, which then gives you full control over shutter speed and aperture. So if you want to up your shutter speed or lower your shutter speed, you can do that. Easy, right?

So to say the ISO dial shouldn't have a lock really exposes the lack of understanding on how to operate the camera.

You can easily take the camera in and out of Auto ISO through the i menu on the rear screen (granted it isn't as easy as it is on the D700 or D800, which is merely pressing the ISO button and rotating the front command dial to take it out of Auto ISO.

When I discovered Auto ISO and how well it worked, I was thrilled! Saves me huge time. I set ISO 12800 as my top ISO on the Df (6400 on the D700, which used to be the high ISO king) and just leave it and shoot! No more having to manually take it higher when you walk inside, then having to remember to take it out of high ISO when you go back outside - or you forget and then shoot outside at high ISO for a while until you remember to change it back to 100 - oops!

AF assist light? Did a manual focus Nikon SLR have one? Nope. Why do you need one?? I can focus my Df in near blackness. Did you ever try? I shot the stars with my Df and a 50mm lens. If it's too dark for the AF to work, you're not using the AF right, or just switch to manual focus!

Need more pixels? Buy the D750 or D810. Me, 16MP is the sweet spot. I was so satisfied with 12MP, prints are gorgeous, and I frame in camera so I don't need the "cropping room" the D800 gave me (sold it a while ago, definitely don't miss it).

All in all, you either like the Df for what it is, and it is an absolute Nikon classic and a triumph (so small and lightweight but the images it produces are so outstanding).
 
Shotcents wrote:I always enjoy the car analogies!

take the locks off the dials, give me the AF assist light and make the whole camera just a bit smaller. If they up the MP of the sensor on the Df2, make sure it can do what the Df can or get very very close.
No no no, and no. It's like people never used a manual focus Nikon SLR before. OK, first of all, the ISO speed dial always has a lock on it on a Nikon manual focus SLR. Why? Because you set your ISO and forget it when shooting film. You generally don't need to change it while shooting.
On the Df you have all these dials. OK so you set your base ISO. Now go in and set up Auto ISO and set your Max ISO. Now you have this all ready. You can also tell the camera what you would like to use as your minimum shutter speed. I leave mine set to Auto, which means the shutter speed varies based on the focal length (it is generally 1/focal length, which works well for me). The cool part is you can change the camera from A or P (whichever you use) in to M, which then gives you full control over shutter speed and aperture. So if you want to up your shutter speed or lower your shutter speed, you can do that. Easy, right?
So to say the ISO dial shouldn't have a lock really exposes the lack of understanding on how to operate the camera.

You can easily take the camera in and out of Auto ISO through the i menu on the rear screen (granted it isn't as easy as it is on the D700 or D800, which is merely pressing the ISO button and rotating the front command dial to take it out of Auto ISO.

When I discovered Auto ISO and how well it worked, I was thrilled! Saves me huge time. I set ISO 12800 as my top ISO on the Df (6400 on the D700, which used to be the high ISO king) and just leave it and shoot! No more having to manually take it higher when you walk inside, then having to remember to take it out of high ISO when you go back outside - or you forget and then shoot outside at high ISO for a while until you remember to change it back to 100 - oops!

AF assist light? Did a manual focus Nikon SLR have one? Nope. Why do you need one?? I can focus my Df in near blackness. Did you ever try? I shot the stars with my Df and a 50mm lens. If it's too dark for the AF to work, you're not using the AF right, or just switch to manual focus!

Need more pixels? Buy the D750 or D810. Me, 16MP is the sweet spot. I was so satisfied with 12MP, prints are gorgeous, and I frame in camera so I don't need the "cropping room" the D800 gave me (sold it a while ago, definitely don't miss it).

All in all, you either like the Df for what it is, and it is an absolute Nikon classic and a triumph (so small and lightweight but the images it produces are so outstanding).
That's one good way to shoot with it - I'm almost always in auto ISO myself - but far from the only way. And for those who like to adjust ISO manually and sometimes from shot to shot, it would be easy to provide toggle lock buttons rather than always locked buttons on the dials so that the user can decide whether to keep the dial locked or unlocked. The Fuji XT1 does this and it's one of the areas I think it gets it dead right and that the Df could have done better. Same with exposure comp, a control I use a lot - why not let the user decide whether to lock the dial or not? You can like the Df for what it is and still find room for improvement...

-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
 
This would be a good solution and would satisfy almost everyone. The way I use the camera, I really don't mind the locks the way they are. I use auto-iso as well with my base or starting iso set at 100, and the camera mode dial set at M for all of my mf lenses.
 
You said:

'Those working primarily at lower ISO would be best served by a D810 or D750'.

Not for me, mainly because I use a lot of older lenses, and as I indicated previously, I think that the 16 megapixel sensor is a better match for these lenses. I also like to use very high shutter speeds in M mode, thus having the option of shooting at higher iso's as well.
 
Shotcents wrote:I always enjoy the car analogies!

take the locks off the dials, give me the AF assist light and make the whole camera just a bit smaller. If they up the MP of the sensor on the Df2, make sure it can do what the Df can or get very very close.
No no no, and no. It's like people never used a manual focus Nikon SLR before. OK, first of all, the ISO speed dial always has a lock on it on a Nikon manual focus SLR. Why? Because you set your ISO and forget it when shooting film. You generally don't need to change it while shooting.
On the Df you have all these dials. OK so you set your base ISO. Now go in and set up Auto ISO and set your Max ISO. Now you have this all ready. You can also tell the camera what you would like to use as your minimum shutter speed. I leave mine set to Auto, which means the shutter speed varies based on the focal length (it is generally 1/focal length, which works well for me). The cool part is you can change the camera from A or P (whichever you use) in to M, which then gives you full control over shutter speed and aperture. So if you want to up your shutter speed or lower your shutter speed, you can do that. Easy, right?
So to say the ISO dial shouldn't have a lock really exposes the lack of understanding on how to operate the camera.

You can easily take the camera in and out of Auto ISO through the i menu on the rear screen (granted it isn't as easy as it is on the D700 or D800, which is merely pressing the ISO button and rotating the front command dial to take it out of Auto ISO.

When I discovered Auto ISO and how well it worked, I was thrilled! Saves me huge time. I set ISO 12800 as my top ISO on the Df (6400 on the D700, which used to be the high ISO king) and just leave it and shoot! No more having to manually take it higher when you walk inside, then having to remember to take it out of high ISO when you go back outside - or you forget and then shoot outside at high ISO for a while until you remember to change it back to 100 - oops!

AF assist light? Did a manual focus Nikon SLR have one? Nope. Why do you need one?? I can focus my Df in near blackness. Did you ever try? I shot the stars with my Df and a 50mm lens. If it's too dark for the AF to work, you're not using the AF right, or just switch to manual focus!

Need more pixels? Buy the D750 or D810. Me, 16MP is the sweet spot. I was so satisfied with 12MP, prints are gorgeous, and I frame in camera so I don't need the "cropping room" the D800 gave me (sold it a while ago, definitely don't miss it).

All in all, you either like the Df for what it is, and it is an absolute Nikon classic and a triumph (so small and lightweight but the images it produces are so outstanding).
That's one good way to shoot with it - I'm almost always in auto ISO myself - but far from the only way. And for those who like to adjust ISO manually and sometimes from shot to shot, it would be easy to provide toggle lock buttons rather than always locked buttons on the dials so that the user can decide whether to keep the dial locked or unlocked. The Fuji XT1 does this and it's one of the areas I think it gets it dead right and that the Df could have done better. Same with exposure comp, a control I use a lot - why not let the user decide whether to lock the dial or not? You can like the Df for what it is and still find room for improvement...

-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/




I used auto ISO last night...







It's to always the way I want to shoot. At that point the locks are a minor annoyance. I just don't see the point of them. I don't accidentally move the shutter speed dial, so why have them on ISO and comp?

At least make it so I can choose to use them. I agree that Fuji did a better job on this.

Still, shooting last night at a school concert, there is no better pick than this sensor in the Df. And a D4s would had me standing out like a sore thumb. With the Df I was pretty much unnoticed.



Robert
 
Nice review.

Many criticism was put on Df AF subsystem and there where many theories why Nikon fit "lesser" AF into Df. I found that Df AF actually more precise then D700 one. Less sensitive, but more precise - there are almost no misfocuses in my copy while D700 misfocus from time to time. Also Df (as least my copy) does not require any fine AF tuning - it spot on with all my lenses. My personal conspiracy theory that AF module in Df is very well adjusted as all subsystem in Df - body with zero issues. And somehow Nikon found that it is easier adjust 36 point module then 51 one. Also "green dot" MF method works better in Df than in D700.

Anyway while I desire low-light AF performance to be better, I am more than happy with it accuracy.
I have joined your conspiracy theory. Made in Japan with more fine tuning in the factory thus producing a zero issue camera and explaining the higher cost. Solid, Precise, Quiet!!!
 
Auto ISO is good stuff, very liberating when you setup the camera this way.

Normally, I would want to control ISO and on any other DSLR I would do just that, make sure I am shooting a ISO that the camera can handle and aiming for the best ISO the camera can produce. It was the same for the D810, very nice camera, but not an ISO monster like some claim it to be. Not sure about the D750, maybe I will try one when Nikon get's it all sorted out. I would have been comfortable with the D810 to 3200 and maybe 6400 in a pinch. The DF is easily good to 6400 and I am not worried too much about it going up to 12800.

The DF is the first camera where I have confidence that everything it makes will probably be good. Fonfeince scale for ability to shoot difficult situations ranks 9 out of 10 because of the ISO.

Last 3 outings I have shot this way with Auto ISO Max and then set the desired on the ISO dial, even action and have no regrets.

I do vote yes on the AF assist light, its a minor tweak and would give the DF an even greater extra edge. In fact, if there were any one thing I would want in a DF2 an AF assist would be at the top of my list overall all other features.

That might sound harsh, but you have to understand my context for this, everything else works for me and is not an issue. There have been a few times where an AF assist would have made life easier. The shot below is an example where the Df had a little bit of an issue getting focus on the lower left Bank which is where I decided to focus this one for DOF.



I do have an AF assist for the hotshoe and it works reasonably well, but I think one has to be in SPOT for it to work. I don't mind that either as I usually like to set my DOF manually with a little visual zone method I use and probably another reason why I don't care about the AF system or rely on it as much as maybe others may want. Action, I will set the camera up per the manual and set Auto ISO and then set the minimum for the lighting, usually somewhere around 3200 for a gym and basketball.

--
Gallery BLOLG - www.roaringstar.com
Book - www.AM4L.com
Mark
 
Auto ISO is good stuff, very liberating when you setup the camera this way.

.......Action, I will set the camera up per the manual and set Auto ISO and then set the minimum for the lighting, usually somewhere around 3200 for a gym and basketball.
Mark,

Just out of curiosity, why set a minimum higher than 100? If you use the minimum shutter speed feature of auto-ISO in aperture priority mode and set the minimum shutter speed you need for the action you're shooting, the camera will find the ISO it needs to hit that shutter speed (unless there's just not enough light, in which case it will drop to a slower shutter, but the base ISO wouldn't affect that). On other cameras with a less robust auto-ISO setup (ie, no good way to set the minimum shutter speed), I've used a higher base ISO to force higher shutter speeds. But with the Df (or any of the other Nikon DSLRs), setting the minimum shutter speed seems to make that unnecessary.

Just wondering if I'm missing something???

-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
 
Auto ISO is good stuff, very liberating when you setup the camera this way.

.......Action, I will set the camera up per the manual and set Auto ISO and then set the minimum for the lighting, usually somewhere around 3200 for a gym and basketball.
Mark,

Just out of curiosity, why set a minimum higher than 100? If you use the minimum shutter speed feature of auto-ISO in aperture priority mode and set the minimum shutter speed you need for the action you're shooting, the camera will find the ISO it needs to hit that shutter speed (unless there's just not enough light, in which case it will drop to a slower shutter, but the base ISO wouldn't affect that). On other cameras with a less robust auto-ISO setup (ie, no good way to set the minimum shutter speed), I've used a higher base ISO to force higher shutter speeds. But with the Df (or any of the other Nikon DSLRs), setting the minimum shutter speed seems to make that unnecessary.

Just wondering if I'm missing something???

-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/
Its a fair question, not going to guarantee my answer will be satisfying, but here it is.

After playing around in the gym and taking test shots of warm ups, I realized that if I set it lower than 3200 my keeper rate decreased. In essence my determination was that between freezing motion and adequate lighting, 3200 was going to be the minimum to get acceptable solid shots. I just preferred to force my will and get the high keeper rate rather than let the DF choose based on the results I was seeing.

It comes form the older school I guess of metering ones scene and then setting up the camera for guaranteed success on action. Doing this yielded me 90% keepers.

In Landscape work I set 100, there is no worries about the DF for the vast majority. I guess with the quasi street stuff I did in Frisco I set 400 minimum because of the grey day and I was extremely please with how that turned out. I shot a lot of wide with the 12-14 that trip, but its a slower wide, and while it works really well, I want to eventually replace that one with a faster stabilized wide. Its on my wish list for this year.

I don't see this as a DF thing, because if someone handed me a D810 or other camera again, the experiment was so convincing that I would set any camera up this way that I use.

Next time out, maybe tonight, I will take my Seconic and look at WB to see if I can make improvements there. Have to look at manual to see if I can set manual WB, I used to do that years ago on my D2X and had some nice success, especially in the studio work I did. In some ways it is not all that important because I use FX in post for the stuff I want more artsy, but for sports I try to keep it real. I am forever a Fuji color fan and that's why if one looks closely I bias red and saturate quite a bit.

If not manual on the WB then I can always dial it in on Post if I capture the actual value and see what happens.

I had stepped out of being active in photography for several years and so I am slowly working my way back into implementing little tricks or kludges if you will to get things the way I like them, which granted, is not how a lot of other people like them.

I have to brush up a lot here in the next months to shoot one of my daughters wedding.. I had done about 5 in years past, but its been a lonnnnnng time! I may rent a second camera for backup, maybe a D4s.
 
Auto ISO is good stuff, very liberating when you setup the camera this way.

.......Action, I will set the camera up per the manual and set Auto ISO and then set the minimum for the lighting, usually somewhere around 3200 for a gym and basketball.
Mark,

Just out of curiosity, why set a minimum higher than 100? If you use the minimum shutter speed feature of auto-ISO in aperture priority mode and set the minimum shutter speed you need for the action you're shooting, the camera will find the ISO it needs to hit that shutter speed (unless there's just not enough light, in which case it will drop to a slower shutter, but the base ISO wouldn't affect that). On other cameras with a less robust auto-ISO setup (ie, no good way to set the minimum shutter speed), I've used a higher base ISO to force higher shutter speeds. But with the Df (or any of the other Nikon DSLRs), setting the minimum shutter speed seems to make that unnecessary.

Just wondering if I'm missing something???

-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/
Its a fair question, not going to guarantee my answer will be satisfying, but here it is.

After playing around in the gym and taking test shots of warm ups, I realized that if I set it lower than 3200 my keeper rate decreased. In essence my determination was that between freezing motion and adequate lighting, 3200 was going to be the minimum to get acceptable solid shots. I just preferred to force my will and get the high keeper rate rather than let the DF choose based on the results I was seeing.

It comes form the older school I guess of metering ones scene and then setting up the camera for guaranteed success on action. Doing this yielded me 90% keepers.
Yeah, I hear the older school and taking some time off. I shot seriously with film (darkroom work, the whole bit), took about 25 years off of anything beyond the current point and shoot family stuff, and then got back into digital heavily about five years ago. It's taken me a while to learn how to use some of the new tricks to my best advantage. Even being able to adjust ISO from shot to shot was a paradigm change for me after the film days!

But auto-ISO is one of the things I've come to really appreciate as sensors have gotten good enough at higher ISO. The way I use it, I shoot with a base of 100 even in very low light with the minimum shutter speed pulling the actual ISO up to whatever level is needed up to the max I set. I do this for low light street shooting, where I'll set base at 100, max at 12,800, and a minimum shutter speed around 1/500 (assuming I'm shooting a lot while moving). For action I may bump the minimum shutter speed to 1/1000 or more depending on the focal length I'm using. The camera handles the tradeoffs between ISO and shutter speed exactly as I would if I was making the adjustments manually and it does it quicker from shot to shot. Sometimes it'll use an ISO of 3200 if that's what's needed to maintain my minimum shutter speed. Sometimes it'll only need 800, sometimes I'll peg itself at 12,800 and then start dropping the shutter speed below my minimum, but that's when things are getting really dark.

There are a lot of ways to skin the cat and no way is right or wrong, but that approach works for me in an amazing range of situations. In this setup I set the aperture for as much DOF as I feel I want, balanced against how much light I might need to let in. Only when I specifically want a slower shutter speed does it not work, so then I take a quick journey over to either manual or shutter priority mode. The only time I tend to actually change the base ISO is to override the maximum ISO, which is a nice little trick the Df lets you do that I don't know if any of the other models do. If my max is 3200 for some sort of higher IQ work but I need to go to 4000 or 6400 on a specific shot, I'll just turn the ISO dial to that point and it'll over ride the auto-maximum of 3200 for a shot or two before I turn it back down to 100...
In Landscape work I set 100, there is no worries about the DF for the vast majority. I guess with the quasi street stuff I did in Frisco I set 400 minimum because of the grey day and I was extremely please with how that turned out. I shot a lot of wide with the 12-14 that trip, but its a slower wide, and while it works really well, I want to eventually replace that one with a faster stabilized wide. Its on my wish list for this year.

I don't see this as a DF thing, because if someone handed me a D810 or other camera again, the experiment was so convincing that I would set any camera up this way that I use.
Yeah, all of the Nikon DSLR's seem to work basically the same way in this regard. It's as good an auto-ISO implementation as I've seen in any camera and better than most (Samsung is as good, Fuji is getting closer, maybe Pentax but I'm not sure - nobody else is close yet IMHO). The only trick the Df does that I don't think any of the others do is the way you can use the ISO dial to over-ride the maximum by adjusting the base to a higher value than the max - pretty cool, but not something I really end up using much...
Next time out, maybe tonight, I will take my Seconic and look at WB to see if I can make improvements there. Have to look at manual to see if I can set manual WB, I used to do that years ago on my D2X and had some nice success, especially in the studio work I did. In some ways it is not all that important because I use FX in post for the stuff I want more artsy, but for sports I try to keep it real. I am forever a Fuji color fan and that's why if one looks closely I bias red and saturate quite a bit.

If not manual on the WB then I can always dial it in on Post if I capture the actual value and see what happens.

I had stepped out of being active in photography for several years and so I am slowly working my way back into implementing little tricks or kludges if you will to get things the way I like them, which granted, is not how a lot of other people like them.
It's fun figuring it all out again, isn't it... I remember when I first got back in I needed a primer on the basics of exposure again. It came back really fast, but digital was and is such a different animal...
I have to brush up a lot here in the next months to shoot one of my daughters wedding.. I had done about 5 in years past, but its been a lonnnnnng time! I may rent a second camera for backup, maybe a D4s.
Wow - good on you. I don't think I'd want to be the main shooter for a wedding, let alone for my own daughter! I'd be too emotionally wrapped up in the event to want to have to get the shot. I'd love to be a second or third shooter and maybe shoot some for fun when circumstances allowed, but I couldn't commit myself to that role I don't think! So good luck to you on that one!

-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
 
You said:

'Those working primarily at lower ISO would be best served by a D810 or D750'.

Not for me, mainly because I use a lot of older lenses, and as I indicated previously, I think that the 16 megapixel sensor is a better match for these lenses. I also like to use very high shutter speeds in M mode, thus having the option of shooting at higher iso's as well.
would have been better and more "natural an fluid" if the Df allowed for different focusing screen, and/or focus peaking in Liveview. My Canon FF can do the first and my Sony can do the later.
 
But auto-ISO is one of the things I've come to really appreciate as sensors have gotten good enough at higher ISO. The way I use it, I shoot with a base of 100 even in very low light with the minimum shutter speed pulling the actual ISO up to whatever level is needed up to the max I set. I do this for low light street shooting, where I'll set base at 100, max at 12,800, and a minimum shutter speed around 1/500 (assuming I'm shooting a lot while moving). For action I may bump the minimum shutter speed to 1/1000 or more depending on the focal length I'm using. The camera handles the tradeoffs between ISO and shutter speed exactly as I would if I was making the adjustments manually and it does it quicker from shot to shot. Sometimes it'll use an ISO of 3200 if that's what's needed to maintain my minimum shutter speed. Sometimes it'll only need 800, sometimes I'll peg itself at 12,800 and then start dropping the shutter speed below my minimum, but that's when things are getting really dark.
-Ray
--------------------------------------
We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/
Ray, I forgot to mention that I am always in Aperture priority, be that wrong, right or indifferent. My mind has always operate from Aperture first, then everything else second to fit the first.

I suppose that's because by heart I am a landscape/general shooter first and I like my DOF very deep in most cases. I will shoot shallower on people unless its street, then I still like the DOF deep.

Pier39TreeNDF_3584-Edit.jpg




--
Gallery BLOLG - www.roaringstar.com
Book - www.AM4L.com
Mark
 
I think that most DF owners would agree that the option of changing screens would have been nice. There are screens available for the DF from third party vendors. However, I have no problems focusing my lenses with the standard screen and with the focusing dot.
 
Amazing sensor that makes you lose all interest in ever changing cameras even if technology changes.
 
Last night I saw that Nikon came out with the additional grip plate which sealed the decision to acquire a Df again.
Yes; only $130 for a grip without any electronics. Nikon treats us so well!
....Yet nobody complains when RRS comes out with an L-bracket for about the same price!
 
Last night I saw that Nikon came out with the additional grip plate which sealed the decision to acquire a Df again.
Yes; only $130 for a grip without any electronics. Nikon treats us so well!
....Yet nobody complains when RRS comes out with an L-bracket for about the same price!
Good point.

Nikon's price is really not that bad. The D800 battery grip is the all-time consumer violation! ;-)

Robert
 
OP has obviously not used a D810...The DF is very good but it ain't small and it ain't the best
 
OP has obviously not used a D810...The DF is very good but it ain't small and it ain't the best
I believe he has. The Df is the smallest Nikon full frame DSLR and maybe of any current full frame DSLR. And I don't believe anyone here is claiming it's "the best", but it clearly is for some some of us, "the best" being a subjective judgement based on different criteria for different shooters after all.

-Ray
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We judge photographers by the photographs we see. We judge cameras by the photographs we miss - Haim Zamir
 

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