Canon G12: how to repair a broken sensor

Yetanfou

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...or the story of a G12 which came in from the cold.



Searching for Christmas presents I happened upon a second-hand store which had, on a lost shelf, a box with a notice on it: 'Canon G12. Sensor broken, repair will cost around 1000kr (Swedish kronor, ~$130 US), newprice around 6000 kr ($780 US... Swedish prices are often rather inflated...). Price: 45 kr ($5.75 US). Talk about an offer you can't refuse...

Of course I bought the camera - which came in its original box, with all accessories included except the lens ring (previous owner seems to have used the lens barrel extension). Once the battery was charged it powered up, but the display looked... interesting. The pictures it took, even more so.

This is a lamp. It does not really look like this.

This is a lamp. It does not really look like this.



My daughter, in heavy rain or fog...

My daughter, in heavy rain or fog...

Interestingly, the problems disappeared when I pressed on the back of the camera, next to the dial...

Picture taken with broken G12, while pressing on back of camera (next to dial)

Picture taken with broken G12, while pressing on back of camera (next to dial)

This clearly indicated a bad connection between the sensor and the main board or on the mainboard itself. Once opened up and carefully prodded with a bamboo skewer, the defect seemed to be located in the connector on the flexcable between the sensor and the main board, or the socket on the mainboard.

Left side of flex cable connector

Left side of flex cable connector



Right side of connector

Right side of connector

The camera seems to have fallen, given the presence of a small indentation on the bottom left front. The connector, once mounted in the socket, forces the flex cable down over the ridge next to it, stressing the solder connections. The picture shows how small these connections are - they can not take much stress. As the connector is only held on the cable by the solder connections, it does not take much of an impact to cause problems. This, in my opinion, is clearly a design problem which could be alleviated either by lowering the ridge over which the flex cable has to pass right next to the connector, or by adding a physical restraint (epoxy, screw connections, etc) to hold that connector in place on the flex cable.

Repairing a camera which shows these problems is rather easy if you have access to a hot air repair station or another type of temperature-controlled hot air solder system. Just put a small nozzle on the wand, set it to ca. 340°C and, while holding the connector in place with a pair of tweezers, reflow the solder on both sides of the connector. You do not need to remove the sensor from the camera for this repair, just be careful not to bend the flex cable to much.

If this repair fails, 'new' (?) sensors can be had for as little as 55 kr ($7 US) including shipping on eBay or AliExpress.

If you don't feel comfortable repairing your camera yourself, you might know someone who can do it for you. It should be clear that this is not a big or difficult repair, and it should not be priced as such. It does not take much time to remove those 8 screws, remove the back, lift the connector, reflow the solder, put the connector back and reassemble the camera - maybe 10-15 minutes if you've never done it before. The prices I've seen quoted for a repair like this rival that of the needed hot air repair station so it might even be worth investing in one of those instead.



An offer you can't refuse - $5.75 for a G12 :-)

An offer you can't refuse - $5.75 for a G12 :-)
 
Interestingly, the problems disappeared when I pressed on the back of the camera, next to the dial...
Dropped my G12 today and broke it .. display, menu etc. all seem to work fine, but photos coming out black. Googled, found and read your post, and sure enough, the problem disappears when I press on the back of the camera! Thanks for this, this is helpful.
 
Thank you for the in depth tutorial. I have a friends Canon G12 which she dropped and black picture . I bought a "new" CCD off ebay for $20 but it gave me white lines and no picture. So I just tried the reflow on the connector as you described ( though I had it out of the camera ). And it worked ! I think this is now my Canon G12 since my friend had already bought a new camera . Thanks again for the info - I am so happy I found it. And good to know the Chinese ebay seller refunded my money for the bad CCD.
 
I guess I spoke too soon - while I have the image back, when I took some photo's outside today the green colors look kind of reddish colored. I tried a few different settings but can't seem to get it to show up green.
 
Just read your post. Hope it's not too late and that you still have your old sensor at hand...

I came across the same problem : see the following page.


In my case, what they call the "hot mirror filter" actually stayed stuck on the old sensor. Once I had it back in place, everything was fine !

Good luck
 
Hello Yetanfou

Thank you for this thread. i'm happy to have found some information, and a bit impressed of your knowledge.

My camera has exactly the same problem with the sensor, and when i press on the back-cover its "short-time" solved.

Actually i have no 340 *C heating system and so i'm looking for the physical solution. the problem is, that i dont find out where to put the thing to set the contact. I mean, when i press on the back cover, it makes proper photos. but, with the open casing i can press anywhere while triggering, the photos come with the known purple stripes. and then i close the casing (even whitout the screws), and the pressure in the center of the back-cover solves the problem again.

can't i just set a little piece of plastic inside, which presses the right point? and can you tell me on which point the pressure has to come?



834d7073f81f49deb25eadf4c78ba840.jpg



This (red arrow) is the plug from the sensor i think. but pressure on it has no effect...

thanks already... and greetings from trogen (CH)
 

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