shooting the moon

[Fuji lover]

Any tricks to shooting the moon with a Fuji has 50 would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Orion12]

Any tricks to shooting the moon with a Fuji has 50 would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Fuji Lover,

Camera Settings ( based on my Moon-Shot experiences )

1. Select ( SPOT Metering ) Absolute & Essential Setting for Moon Shots

2. Check & If Needed Select ( Auto White Balance ) You can get Blue Moons ect. with Other W/B settings.

3. Select Fine + RAW / Image 4:3 Ratio "M" or "L" Depending on what EXR Mode you use

4. Select EXR HS mode IF you want a 16-Mp Photo / Raw File : ISO-100
Select EXR SN mode IF you want a 8-Mp Photo / Raw File : ISO-100
* In either case you'll get the Same Object Size relative to Full Frame Images
* You could also choose Auto-ISOxxx and in Most Cases the Camera Will Select ISO-100 anyway
* Both of these Dialed EXR modes are locked into DR=100 so their are No DR Options

5. If Tripod Shooting then use the 2-Sec Hands-Off Delay

NOTE : You'll Get BIG Arguments about Selecting "L" Size as a "MUST"
I've Shot Several High Quality Moon Shots Using BOTH "M" Size & "L" Size. . .
IF I'm Going to Do RAW Processing : At this Point I Personally Select 8-Mp "M" Size / EXR : SN Mode as I like the Clarity of this Mode and it Works Well with Photo Ninja Raw Converter.

Here's a Flickr link that has some of my HS50EXR Moon Shots that were Tripod Shot mostly in EXR HR Mode / 16-Mp. . .

Loading…

www.flickr.com

There's a More Recent Moon Shot / Hand-Held & shot using EXR : SN / 8-Mp mode. . .


8-Mp SN / From In-Camera Jpeg


Dialed EXR : SN mode / Raw Processed 8-Mp / 100% Crop 1:1 Sensor Pixel Mapped / Hand-Held

Good Luck / Good Shooting & Cheers from Orion

 

[photoreddi]

Any tricks to shooting the moon with a Fuji has 50 would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Fuji Lover,

Camera Settings ( based on my Moon-Shot experiences )

1. Select ( SPOT Metering ) Absolute & Essential Setting for Moon Shots

Metering shouldn't be needed. Have you heard of the "Sunny 16" rule? It's pretty reliable if clouds, trees or buildings don't block the light. There's a similar "Looney 11" rule for the moon that's much more reliable, since it has no clouds of objects to obstruct light from reaching its surface (other than when it's blocked by the Earth, of course). Besides, this will give everyone an excuse to shoot using Manual mode.

In lunar photography, the Looney 11 rule (also known as the Looney f/11 rule) is a method of estimating correct exposures without a light meter. For daylight photography, there is a similar rule called the Sunny 16 rule.

The basic rule is, '"For astronomical photos of the moon's surface, set aperture to f/11 and shutter speed to the [reciprocal of the] ISO film speed [or ISO setting]."

With ISO 100 film / setting in the camera, one sets the aperture to f/11 and the shutter speed to 1/100 or 1/125 second (on some cameras 1/125 second is the available setting nearest to 1/100 second).
With ISO 200 film / setting and aperture at f/11, set shutter speed to 1/200 or 1/250.
With ISO 400 film / setting and aperture at f/11, set shutter speed to 1/400 or 1/500.

As with other light readings, shutter speed can be changed as long as the f-number is altered to compensate, e.g. 1/250 second at f/8 gives equivalent exposure to 1/125 second at f/11. Generally, the adjustment is done such that for each step in aperture increase (i.e., decreasing the f-number), the exposure time has to be halved (or equivalently, the shutter speed doubled), and vice versa.
...
The intensity of visible sunlight striking the surface of the moon is essentially the same as at the surface of the earth. The albedo of the moon's surface material is lower (darker) than that of the earth's surface, and the Looney 11 rule increases exposure by one stop versus the Sunny 16 rule. Many photographers simply use the f/16-based Sunny 16 rule, unmodified, for lunar photographs.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Looney_11_rule

.

2. Check & If Needed Select ( Auto White Balance ) You can get Blue Moons ect. with Other W/B settings.

I rarely do that, only once in a blue moon.

.

3. Select Fine + RAW / Image 4:3 Ratio "M" or "L" Depending on what EXR Mode you use

4. Select EXR HS mode IF you want a 16-Mp Photo / Raw File : ISO-100
Select EXR SN mode IF you want a 8-Mp Photo / Raw File : ISO-100
* In either case you'll get the Same Object Size relative to Full Frame Images
* You could also choose Auto-ISOxxx and in Most Cases the Camera Will Select ISO-100 anyway
* Both of these Dialed EXR modes are locked into DR=100 so their are No DR Options

5. If Tripod Shooting then use the 2-Sec Hands-Off Delay

NOTE : You'll Get BIG Arguments about Selecting "L" Size as a "MUST"
I've Shot Several High Quality Moon Shots Using BOTH "M" Size & "L" Size. . .
IF I'm Going to Do RAW Processing : At this Point I Personally Select 8-Mp "M" Size / EXR : SN Mode as I like the Clarity of this Mode and it Works Well with Photo Ninja Raw Converter.

M size usually works better with low contrast fine details, which I believe is what you get over most of the surface when shooting full moons. When light hits the rilles and craters at an angle, the higher contrast with the shadows might make L size the better choice, especially near the terminator. I'll let someone with clearer skies and warmer weather check this out.

 

[Orion12]

Any tricks to shooting the moon with a Fuji has 50 would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Fuji Lover,

Camera Settings ( based on my Moon-Shot experiences )

1. Select ( SPOT Metering ) Absolute & Essential Setting for Moon Shots

Metering shouldn't be needed.

True for Manual mode ( Which You mention below ). . . (Although I did make use of the EVF Meter)
I've shot the Moon several times using Manual Modes & in particular Experimenting with F11, F10, F9, F8, F7.1, F6.4 & F5.6. . .

My experience was F11, F10, F9 & F8 produced a noticeably less defined image than F7.1, F6.4 & F5.6. . . ( This was Kind of Disappointing but was MY Result none the less )

The Difference between F7.1 & F6.4 & F5.6 was not great and sometimes was difficult to separate out because even small changes in atmospheric conditions change the Quality of a Moon Shot. . .
There was NO CLEAR WINNER. . .

My End Result was adopting the Dialed EXR Modes ie HR ( 16-Mp ) "L" Size or SN ( 8-Mp ) "M" Size
with their In-Camera Metering - These are a Semi-Auto mode but allowing Full Control of All Camera Functions Except Direct Shutter Speed & Aperture. . .
I had concluded that Fuji Engineers had done Extensive Evaluation along these lines and Effectively Choose the OPTIMUM Aperture which at 185mm ( 1000mm 35mm Equiv. ) is Usually F5.6

Have you heard of the "Sunny 16" rule?

Seen it yes & played around with it but never demanded of myself to Strictly Apply it. (0-metering)

It's pretty reliable if clouds, trees or buildings don't block the light. There's a similar "Looney 11" rule for the moon that's much more reliable, since it has no clouds of objects to obstruct light from reaching its surface (other than when it's blocked by the Earth, of course). Besides, this will give everyone an excuse to shoot using Manual mode.

In lunar photography, the Looney 11 rule (also known as the Looney f/11 rule) is a method of estimating correct exposures without a light meter. For daylight photography, there is a similar rule called the Sunny 16 rule.

The basic rule is, '"For astronomical photos of the moon's surface, set aperture to f/11 and shutter speed to the [reciprocal of the] ISO film speed [or ISO setting]."

With ISO 100 film / setting in the camera, one sets the aperture to f/11 and the shutter speed to 1/100 or 1/125 second (on some cameras 1/125 second is the available setting nearest to 1/100 second).
With ISO 200 film / setting and aperture at f/11, set shutter speed to 1/200 or 1/250.
With ISO 400 film / setting and aperture at f/11, set shutter speed to 1/400 or 1/500.

As with other light readings, shutter speed can be changed as long as the f-number is altered to compensate, e.g. 1/250 second at f/8 gives equivalent exposure to 1/125 second at f/11. Generally, the adjustment is done such that for each step in aperture increase (i.e., decreasing the f-number), the exposure time has to be halved (or equivalently, the shutter speed doubled), and vice versa.
...
The intensity of visible sunlight striking the surface of the moon is essentially the same as at the surface of the earth. The albedo of the moon's surface material is lower (darker) than that of the earth's surface, and the Looney 11 rule increases exposure by one stop versus the Sunny 16 rule. Many photographers simply use the f/16-based Sunny 16 rule, unmodified, for lunar photographs.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Looney_11_rule

Interesting Stuff but I do find the HS50EXR Bridge Camera very specifically Engineered & the Built-In Metering & Exposure Methods work well as a general rule. . .

I also almost ALWAYS do some shooting Experimentation & Field Check Results. . .

.

2. Check & If Needed Select ( Auto White Balance ) You can get Blue Moons ect. with Other W/B settings.

I rarely do that, only once in a blue moon.

I Ended Up with a few Accidental Blue Moons ( Lot's of my Indoor shooting uses Custom W/B )

.

3. Select Fine + RAW / Image 4:3 Ratio "M" or "L" Depending on what EXR Mode you use

4. Select EXR HS mode IF you want a 16-Mp Photo / Raw File : ISO-100
Select EXR SN mode IF you want a 8-Mp Photo / Raw File : ISO-100
* In either case you'll get the Same Object Size relative to Full Frame Images
* You could also choose Auto-ISOxxx and in Most Cases the Camera Will Select ISO-100 anyway
* Both of these Dialed EXR modes are locked into DR=100 so their are No DR Options

5. If Tripod Shooting then use the 2-Sec Hands-Off Delay

NOTE : You'll Get BIG Arguments about Selecting "L" Size as a "MUST"
I've Shot Several High Quality Moon Shots Using BOTH "M" Size & "L" Size. . .
IF I'm Going to Do RAW Processing : At this Point I Personally Select 8-Mp "M" Size / EXR : SN Mode as I like the Clarity of this Mode and it Works Well with Photo Ninja Raw Converter.

M size usually works better with low contrast fine details, which I believe is what you get over most of the surface when shooting full moons. When light hits the rilles and craters at an angle, the higher contrast with the shadows might make L size the better choice, especially near the terminator. I'll let someone with clearer skies and warmer weather check this out.

My Best In-Camera Moon-Shot Jpeg was from an 8-Mp Dialed EXR:SN mode BUT that Night was VERY COLD and Exceptionally Clear so it's Not a Definitive PROOF of anything. . . The Shot was detailed & the Moon Colors were notably richer than usual. . .


Hand-Held from a City Lighted Parking Lot - Dialed EXR : SN mode with Raynox 1.54X TC Attached 1,540mm (Note: their was a Very Light Cloud covering the Moon during this shot)

Looking Forward to some New-Rounds of Moon-Shots & Will Maybe Hone-In some New Parameters
Cheers from Orion :-D

 

[DickyAus]

Looking Forward to some New-Rounds of Moon-Shots & Will Maybe Hone-In some New Parameters
Cheers from Orion :-D

Hi Orion,

Have you tried Image Size = Auto in EXR auto mode?

Dicky.

 

[jcmarfilph]

Any tricks to shooting the moon with a Fuji has 50 would be greatly appreciated.

In PMode, you would set the metering to Spot, in Manual mode, follow the Sunny 16 or Moony 11 rule. Usually it will end up with 1/250s-1/320s and aperture of f/5.6. If you shoot in JPEG, just turn NR to lowest and sharpness to standard otherwise in RAW to maximize the detail and exposure handling. And of course ISO-100. Handheld if you are steady, tripod if not and disable IS. And last but not the least... LSize.

I've tried every mode mentioned here and nobody does it but chit-chat saying MSize will produce better result than LSize. It is a myth... =D

Here is the side-by-side comparison...

MSize DR400 (Left), EXR SN (Center), LSize DR100 (Right). LSize was reduced to 8MP.



And here is the poll result..

Here is JPEG vs. Stacked JPEG and RAW











-=[ Joms ]=-

 

[jcmarfilph]

Any tricks to shooting the moon with a Fuji has 50 would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Fuji Lover,

Camera Settings ( based on my Moon-Shot experiences )

1. Select ( SPOT Metering ) Absolute & Essential Setting for Moon Shots

2. Check & If Needed Select ( Auto White Balance ) You can get Blue Moons ect. with Other W/B settings.

3. Select Fine + RAW / Image 4:3 Ratio "M" or "L" Depending on what EXR Mode you use

4. Select EXR HS mode IF you want a 16-Mp Photo / Raw File : ISO-100
Select EXR SN mode IF you want a 8-Mp Photo / Raw File : ISO-100
* In either case you'll get the Same Object Size relative to Full Frame Images
* You could also choose Auto-ISOxxx and in Most Cases the Camera Will Select ISO-100 anyway
* Both of these Dialed EXR modes are locked into DR=100 so their are No DR Options

5. If Tripod Shooting then use the 2-Sec Hands-Off Delay

NOTE : You'll Get BIG Arguments about Selecting "L" Size as a "MUST"

I've Shot Several High Quality Moon Shots Using BOTH "M" Size & "L" Size. . .
IF I'm Going to Do RAW Processing : At this Point I Personally Select 8-Mp "M" Size / EXR : SN Mode as I like the Clarity of this Mode and it Works Well with Photo Ninja Raw Converter.

Here's a Flickr link that has some of my HS50EXR Moon Shots that were Tripod Shot mostly in EXR HR Mode / 16-Mp. . .

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99004284@N05/

There's a More Recent Moon Shot / Hand-Held & shot using EXR : SN / 8-Mp mode. . .

Good Luck / Good Shooting & Cheers from Orion

There is only one solution to this, go out and shoot the moon both with LSize and MSize and post here the side-by-side comparison. I bet you have done it and did not want to post the result. =D

There is a melting-like artifact on your Photo-ninja moon shot and that is the reason why I don't like it.

-=[ Joms ]=-

 

[Orion12]

Looking Forward to some New-Rounds of Moon-Shots & Will Maybe Hone-In some New Parameters
Cheers from Orion :-D

Hi Orion,

Have you tried Image Size = Auto in EXR auto mode?

Yes BUT Not for a Telephoto / Moon Shot - The Dialed EXR : AUTO mode has NEVER Selected Spot-Metering when I've Tried using it to "Shoot the Moon". . .

Spot-Metering is the ONLY Metering Mode that's worked well for Telephoto End "Moon Surface" Exposure Control.

I was sort of bummed out about this as I also wanted to get some shots of the Moon using EXR : SN + DR mode which is ONLY Available in dialed EXR : AUTO mode / That Special EXR File Type also suports RAW. ( Just for Reference the Pro Low Light mode - is a Jpeg Output ONLY Modality )

Cheers from Orion

 

[Orion12]

There is only one solution to this, go out and shoot the moon both with LSize and MSize and post here the side-by-side comparison. I bet you have done it and did not want to post the result. =D

Many of us know these Realities will NEVER align with the "Joms Perspective" that's Ok they don't have to. . . I've ALREADY Shot it Both Ways & Have Got Good Results BOTH Ways. . .

There is a melting-like artifact on your Photo-ninja moon shot and that is the reason why I don't like it.

Not Everyone Likes Everything - I like it but thanks for your Detailed Opinion. . .

Cheers from Orion

 

[jcmarfilph]

There is only one solution to this, go out and shoot the moon both with LSize and MSize and post here the side-by-side comparison. I bet you have done it and did not want to post the result. =D

Many of us know these Realities will NEVER align with the "Joms Perspective" that's Ok they don't have to. . . I've ALREADY Shot it Both Ways & Have Got Good Results BOTH Ways. . .

Here is another way... Stop claiming MSize is better than LSize because you can't provide side-by-side comparison but just pure hyperbole - all talk no picture i.e.

There is a melting-like artifact on your Photo-ninja moon shot and that is the reason why I don't like it.

Not Everyone Likes Everything - I like it but thanks for your Detailed Opinion. . .

No problem. If you will send me the download link for your RAF, I will be happy to show you that SilkyPix is better than PhotoNinja and that you are not maximizing detail by shooting in 8MP mode.

Cheers from Orion

-=[ Joms ]=-

 

[Orion12]

There is only one solution to this, go out and shoot the moon both with LSize and MSize and post here the side-by-side comparison. I bet you have done it and did not want to post the result. =D

Many of us know these Realities will NEVER align with the "Joms Perspective" that's Ok they don't have to. . . I've ALREADY Shot it Both Ways & Have Got Good Results BOTH Ways. . .

Here is another way... Stop claiming MSize is better than LSize because you can't provide side-by-side comparison but just pure hyperbole - all talk no picture i.e.

Please Learn to Read BEFORE You Blindly Blast Back YOUR Already Stated Opinion. . .
YOU ARE JUST CREATING POINTS TO ARGUE !
Hears what I said. . . "I've ALREADY Shot it Both Ways & Have Got Good Results BOTH Ways. . ."
Just Cool Your Jets. . .

Now Go Shoot some Moon Pictures for YourSelf. . . Good Shooting !

IF You want to Look at some Moon Pics of Mine then Here They Are. . . http://www.flickr.com/photos/99004284@N05/with/12474764413

Cheers from Orion