Best lens for large group fotos

[Kodisa]

I have been asked to take some group pictures of classes at my school. The groups are up to 40 people in 4 rows. I have a D7100 and the following lenses: Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8; Nikkor 10-24mm and Nikkor 35mm f1.8G
I would also appreciate info on best settings. There will be adequate natural light,but it can be supplemented with an SB900
Thank you for helping me.

 

[qunamax]

Why not bring them all, shoot the first group with all three lenses and later decide which one's output you like the best and stick to that, or even better just make them all different if situations will allow you and avoid all photos looking the same (unless it's asked for specifically)?

Since you already own those those lenses i see no point in asking rather than seeing for yourself.

 

[TacticDesigns]

I have been asked to take some group pictures of classes at my school. The groups are up to 40 people in 4 rows. I have a D7100 and the following lenses: Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8; Nikkor 10-24mm and Nikkor 35mm f1.8G
I would also appreciate info on best settings. There will be adequate natural light,but it can be supplemented with an SB900
Thank you for helping me.

I haven't shot 40 people . . . but I've been up around 20 . . .

I think the lens is probably going to be based on where you get to stand (ie. how far away from the group of 40 people) If you've got your back against a wall . . . and you can't step back to get the group in . . . you'll have to go wider . . .

I would suspect you'd want to be at around f5.6 - 8 (maybe more?) to get more depth of field to get more people in focus . . . which might cut into the light and shutter speed. But shoot and check to make sure everyone is in relative focus . . .

I would try to take lots of pictures even of the same sitting. With 40 people . . . its going to be hard to get everyone looking at the camera at the same time. With 20 people . . . I'd grab half a dozen shots if possible . . . then choose the best shot . . . if 1 or 2 people aren't looking at the camera . . . look through the other shots to see if they were looking in those shots and edit them in . . .

Good luck!

 

[winparkman]

I have been asked to take some group pictures of classes at my school. The groups are up to 40 people in 4 rows. I have a D7100 and the following lenses: Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8; Nikkor 10-24mm and Nikkor 35mm f1.8G
I would also appreciate info on best settings. There will be adequate natural light,but it can be supplemented with an SB900
Thank you for helping me.

40 people! Tough. I'd bring along a ladder because if they are in 4 rows, you'll have faces blocked. The ladder, even a small step ladder, will let you get up higher and uncover the faces. The posing part will take several minutes for each shot and you've got to frame and re-frame constantly. Give folks plenty of warning before you take the shot with the last warning about a second before clicking the shutter. Put the camera in continuous and get several shots. I'd start with the 24-70 making sure that you leave enough on the edges to prevent distorting the folks on the side.

Take a helper. Good luck!

 

[David Lal]

40 people! Tough. I'd bring along a ladder because if they are in 4 rows, you'll have faces blocked. The ladder, even a small step ladder, will let you get up higher and uncover the faces. The posing part will take several minutes for each shot and you've got to frame and re-frame constantly. Give folks plenty of warning before you take the shot with the last warning about a second before clicking the shutter. Put the camera in continuous and get several shots. I'd start with the 24-70 making sure that you leave enough on the edges to prevent distorting the folks on the side.

Take a helper. Good luck!

--
OK, not so purely a hobby.

Kodisa, this is excellent practical advice from Winparkman. Listen to him. The photography part is easy, organising the people is not (and I'm terrible at it myself). I have seen the step-ladder 'trick' used several times. Good idea.

Personally I'd use your SB900, if for no other reason than to put a nice catchlight in peoples' eyes.

David

 

[jkjond]

I'd use the longest lens that gets everybody in. Wide angle will make the outer people look wider than they are - which you can compensate to some extent by compressing the edges, but best avoided in the first instance. If you have limited space, see if three layers of people will keep them tighter - it will have the advantage of keeping the finished photo closer to a standard frame size rather than a pano crop. But compose to a standard frame anyway.

Check your lenses for edge to edge performance, f5.6 to f8 is likely the best for this - and as stated, will increase dof, though if you are back from the group dof is not likely to be an issue.

Tripod for group shots can be an advantage as you can watch people far easier when stood to the side of the camera. Stand it on a table if necessary.

Have everyone on the front row synchronise arms - holding both hands together on laps is safe.

Safe, I hate safe. Get them to pick their noses, or better still, the nose of the person next to them. it will create a far more memorable shot.

Here's a rig from a graduation ceremony - note the two cameras, I think camera 2 was for the hat throwing shot. Also the precarious three chair tripod extension! He was a good 40 yards back from the group. The flash was for fill as it was very sunny day.





Here's what he was photographing. I was slightly closer than he was, 40mm for this shot.





Here's my fave group shot. Go to a good location and the poses and expressions don't matter. This one was 17mm, way too wide! I was elevated and stood on a chair to get the line of waves clear of their heads. Looks great as a double page spread at 40" x 20" in their album.







--

Wedding and fine art photographer based in the Lake District, UK

 

[herbymel]

I'd use the longest lens that gets everybody in. Wide angle will make the outer people look wider than they are - which you can compensate to some extent by compressing the edges, but best avoided in the first instance.

Check your lenses for edge to edge performance, f5.6 to f8 is likely the best for this - and as stated, will increase dof, though if you are back from the group dof is not likely to be an issue.

Tripod for group shots can be an advantage as you can watch people far easier when stood to the side of the camera. Stand it on a table if necessary.

Have everyone on the front row synchronise arms - holding both hands together on laps is safe.

Safe, I hate safe. Get them to pick their noses, or better still, the nose of the person next to them. it will create a far more memorable shot.

I'm glad I had my breakfast already

It's always good to do a safe shot, and a fun shot...the fun shot usually is the one people like to go with, as it's for a school...who knows they may have a big stick up their (nose). Have them dress up as the principle, or their favorite teacher. Good technique if you're capable with photoshop is to take a few different shots and be able to swap heads of between shots of those who aren't looking in one particular image. 40 isn't too bad, had it been a bigger group I'd suggest breaking them up into smaller groups, shooting them separately and making a composite shot of them.

--

Wedding and fine art photographer based in the Lake District, UK

 

[jkjond]

Safe, I hate safe. Get them to pick their noses, or better still, the nose of the person next to them. it will create a far more memorable shot.

I'm glad I had my breakfast already

I hate to think what you had :~0

 

[tripleC]

Check out the latest issue of popular photography, they have an excellent article on shooting large groups. Good luck.

 

[AikenMooney]

+1

 

[Kodisa]

Thanks for all the wonderful advice and your time. I don't think organising will be such a problem because students will be in well defined rows. First row on floor, second on chairs, third row standing and last row stands on elevated platform. I will have ample space to move back to fit them all in.
Once again, thank you all so much.