Astro photography with D600 tips

Messages
24
Reaction score
4
Location
Perth, AU
This weekend I'm heading out about 2 hours from Perth, Western Australia, to get some astro shots. My friend knows a place in the middle of nowhere with zero light pollution.

I'm taking D600 with Sigma 35mm 1.4 and Nikon 24mm 2.8D. Also might take 80-200 ED.

Anyone got any good tips for getting the Milky Way, I haven't tried this before? What settings on the D600 would be a good start?

Thanks for any advice.
 
There's a few different ways to shot night stars. Personally, here's my set up.

- An aperture that is as wide open as you can get.

- Complete Manual mode, so you can set the aperture and then set shutter to "bulb" mode so you can control the shutter speed beyond 30secs.

- You may see some folks tell you to use high ISO's, but don't. Use either 100 or 200 ISO, but no more than 400.

- When focusing, go all the way to infinity, then dial it back a hair or two.

- You can do between 30secs to 1 minute, but the closer you get to 1 minute exposures, you'll start to get star trails.

- Take off all filters, no UV, no polarizing...nothing. Take it all off.

- Use a tripod and shutter remote

- Last but not least, get a star map app for a phone or something to tell you where the stars you want to shoot are located at the time you're there.

Extras

Bring a flash light and experiment with light painting your foreground during the exposure. I typically paint the foreground about 5-10 seconds before the end of a 30-45sec exposure.

Hope that helps. Have fun.
 
perthwestaustralia wrote:

This weekend I'm heading out about 2 hours from Perth, Western Australia, to get some astro shots. My friend knows a place in the middle of nowhere with zero light pollution.

I'm taking D600 with Sigma 35mm 1.4 and Nikon 24mm 2.8D. Also might take 80-200 ED.

Anyone got any good tips for getting the Milky Way, I haven't tried this before? What settings on the D600 would be a good start?

Thanks for any advice.
It's REALLY easy.

- Tripod

- Set camera to full manual

- Infinity focus, or focus on a horizon and recompose (D600 has no problem grabbing focus in near-darkness)

- 15-30 second exposures, any more and star trails get pretty noticeable (IMO).

- Lowest ISO you can get away with, but you will likely end up using 800+ to avoid star trails.

- Long exposure NR on if you want, it does a very good job if the higher ISO's are necessary.

- Exposure delay mode (flips mirror up before opening shutter)

I was using a 16-35/4 so I was doing 30 sec at ISO 3200-6400 and F4 and I still had to add 1.0 EV or so of exposure in PP (which the D600 handles no problem by the way). You will be able to get away with significantly lower ISO if you use the 1.4. All of my pictures had star trails at 30 sec, try get it 15 sec or less.

Here's one from the top of Mauna Kea in Hawaii:

DSC_1580-XL.jpg
 
Last edited:
The guy who said don't go above ISO 400 and do 1 minute exposures is completely wrong. I'm not sure if he's ever tried astrophotography before but that is terrible advice.

The D600 handles noise very well in RAW files. The image below was ISO 2000 and a 20 sec exposure. The most critical park is acquiring tack sharp focus, so make sure you do that first. I usually open up to f/2.8, but if you open up longer you can get away with either shorter exposures or lower ISO.

89b89e29b69b4a0d888ff29afcd4d479.jpg



--
Check me out on Flickr: http://flic.kr/ps/2mmLcx
 
KingSpence wrote:

The guy who said don't go above ISO 400 and do 1 minute exposures is completely wrong. I'm not sure if he's ever tried astrophotography before but that is terrible advice.

The D600 handles noise very well in RAW files. The image below was ISO 2000 and a 20 sec exposure. The most critical park is acquiring tack sharp focus, so make sure you do that first. I usually open up to f/2.8, but if you open up longer you can get away with either shorter exposures or lower ISO.
 
Most of my photography is now after sunset. I only use my D600/14-24f2.8 for night shoots, daytime I use my E-M5. To shoot the Milky Way you need f2.8 or better, high iso 3200 to 6400, shutter speed of 10 to 30 secs with the D600. I find most of my milky way shots are taken at 15sec iso5000 and I bracket each composition so I will shoot 10s 15s 20s all at iso5000. I do go up to iso6400 and 30sec if I want to capture a milky way reflection off water but normally I use the settings above for the milky way.

Moon, lighthouses+milky way, stars and all other night shots will differ from above but for the milky way (as you asked) do as I suggest and you won't go wrong.
 
Trewavas.
Trewavas.

First photo is 20sec@iso6400



Tater-du.
Tater-du.



Second photo is 10sec@iso5000. Both work but give a different amount of Milky Way detail so 15sec@iso5000 is in the middle and works fine. Noise at these iso is easily handled (I use Topaz Denoise 5 mostly)and with the 14/24 still gives great detail, other lenses will differ and as the 14-24 imo and testing is as good as it gets at f2.8.
 
perthwestaustralia wrote:

This weekend I'm heading out about 2 hours from Perth, Western Australia, to get some astro shots. My friend knows a place in the middle of nowhere with zero light pollution.

I'm taking D600 with Sigma 35mm 1.4 and Nikon 24mm 2.8D. Also might take 80-200 ED.

Anyone got any good tips for getting the Milky Way, I haven't tried this before? What settings on the D600 would be a good start?

Thanks for any advice.
I got a D600 last month for this very purpose. (Upgraded from my D90)

The most useful thing I was told, from back in my D90 days but it still applies, was a "rule" of thumb. The rule of 600!

It's not 100% perfect but if you divide 600 by your affective focal length you'll be somewhere in the region of the maximum shutter speed you can get away with. My choice lens is 16mm sp 600/16 which comes to around 37 seconds.
You'll find that this is affected by angle and stuff too so is not 100% accurate but it's a good ball-park figure. I tend to scale it back again further for pinpoint stars, my last shoot had me snapping at about 24 seconds IIRC.

So you'll soon realise that the wider angle you can get the longer shutter you can shoot at which gives you more wiggle room with iso and potentially, aperture.

Naturally you want your aperture fully wide open really which means your focusing will be a lot tighter, you've got to find infinity, in the dark, manually. (Ensure your lens is capable of manual focus and infinity focus. Not all lenses go to infinity, though a wide-angle certainly should)
If you need glasses, bring them, focusing on infinity in the dark is a tricky matter, a distant light is useful if it's available but you'll need to be able to focus on it physically with your eye.

Also when you start up on a nights shoting don't be so restrictive with your ISO. The D600 is pretty good with high ISO, though i'm still quite new to it and tend to stick to ISO 800 due to my D90 experience myself.
However, bump up your ISO, way up, for your first few shots. In so doing you can do shorter shutter times, possibly even handheld, and get an idea for what you're shooting at. You can probably get your shutter speed down to 2-6 seconds, maybe less than 1 with a massively high ISO. The images will be useless for noise BUT you can see how your image composition is without waiting twenty seconds, adjusting tripod, waiting twenty seconds, adjusting tripod, etc.

Once you've lined up the composition you want to experiment with the ISO and shutter speed, bringing back the ISO as low as you can without the stars trailing, starting from th shutter speed as calculated above.

Finally, nothing to do with the camera.
Have you checked the heavens? And the weather? (I nearly always forgot my first few trips out and was frustratingly either met with full moons or cloudy skies.) And if you're going coastal, you might want to check the tides too.

To check the heavens for an idea as to where the Milkyway is and for where the moon might be grab a program called stellarium. (http://www.stellarium.org/ ) There are alternatives, i just don't know them.

You can drop in the gps coordinates for where you intend to shoot from and change the time so you can see what is visible when and what directions you should be facing for what you want to grab. :)

Hope that's helpful.
 
Last edited:
Using a wide or ultrawide lens, an exposure of ISO6400, f2.8, 30 seconds works well. Longer than 30 seconds with a wide lens results in noticeable trails. I have used the 14-24 at these settings, and exposures were very good.
 
LMCasey wrote:

Using a wide or ultrawide lens, an exposure of ISO6400, f2.8, 30 seconds works well. Longer than 30 seconds with a wide lens results in noticeable trails. I have used the 14-24 at these settings, and exposures were very good.
How do you handle the noise in post for ISO6400 or do you find it's serviceable as is?
 
In my limited experience, it was not necessary to use NR (though there is a small amount of chroma NR used in ACR by default). Be aware though that I used the long exposure noise reduction in-camera.
 
LMCasey wrote:

In my limited experience, it was not necessary to use NR (though there is a small amount of chroma NR used in ACR by default). Be aware though that I used the long exposure noise reduction in-camera.
Ah! I always have that swiched off by habit. I mgiht try switching it on on my next run to see how good it is.

Usually I do timelapses though so need less hesitation between shots.
 
MTWewerka wrote:
KingSpence wrote:

The guy who said don't go above ISO 400 and do 1 minute exposures is completely wrong. I'm not sure if he's ever tried astrophotography before but that is terrible advice.

The D600 handles noise very well in RAW files. The image below was ISO 2000 and a 20 sec exposure. The most critical park is acquiring tack sharp focus, so make sure you do that first. I usually open up to f/2.8, but if you open up longer you can get away with either shorter exposures or lower ISO.
 
VERY nice. Did you have white balance on "tungsten". My photo viewing program claims this. If so, it obviously works, but why that setting?
 
howd the trip turn out?..where did you go..im also in perth and would be keen

perthwestaustralia wrote:

This weekend I'm heading out about 2 hours from Perth, Western Australia, to get some astro shots. My friend knows a place in the middle of nowhere with zero light pollution.

I'm taking D600 with Sigma 35mm 1.4 and Nikon 24mm 2.8D. Also might take 80-200 ED.

Anyone got any good tips for getting the Milky Way, I haven't tried this before? What settings on the D600 would be a good start?

Thanks for any advice.
 
EYeye wrote:

VERY nice. Did you have white balance on "tungsten". My photo viewing program claims this. If so, it obviously works, but why that setting?
Thanks! I forget exactly what WB I used, but I did change it. It makes the sky look blue instead of purple, which to my eyes looked better. I thought it was fluorescent but it may have been tungsten.

This is the difference the WB makes in star photos:



DSC_1604-L.jpg




DSC_1579-L.jpg




DSC_1577-L.jpg
 
tricky photography wrote:
LMCasey wrote:

In my limited experience, it was not necessary to use NR (though there is a small amount of chroma NR used in ACR by default). Be aware though that I used the long exposure noise reduction in-camera.
Ah! I always have that swiched off by habit. I mgiht try switching it on on my next run to see how good it is.

Usually I do timelapses though so need less hesitation between shots.
Long exposure noise reduction is always good since it uses dark frame substraction and maps the sensor noise out of the image for a substantial quantity.
It's good explained here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dark-frame_subtraction
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top