What's the best Nikon lens for real estate interiors?

Marleck

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I'm looking to start shooting real estate interiors. Would anyone "with experience" be willing to recommend the best lens for that? Zoom or fixed?

I have a new D800 and want to get the best lens AND flash.

Thanks for your help:)
 
Marleck wrote:

I'm looking to start shooting real estate interiors. Would anyone "with experience" be willing to recommend the best lens for that? Zoom or fixed?
Although I haven't done too much of this type of photography, I would think most lenes would work. I think making sure the camera is fairly level when shooting thus avoiding any "keystone" effect would be important. I could very well be wrong but I think one of the most important things would be the lighting, you certainly have to make it look as natural as possible.

Terry
Graham Fine Art Photography
Remember, it's not the CPU that's in your camera that makes great images, it's the one located about 4" behind the viewfinder that does.
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I love my Nikon 17-35 f2.8 lens for a working and project lens. I do think you need a zoom for close courter type shooting, especially inside but also outside, more efficent. I would avoid the Nikon 16-35 f4.0 because of huge distortion at 16-18 mm focal length and also f4.0 is slow.

Larry
 
Real estate photography has been a nice little chunk of my business for several years. I find the 14-24mm indispensable. The caveat is that 14mm is not always the best focal length, and with any ultrawide, composition makes the difference between an effective interior and a shot that just looks weird. I also use the new 18-35mm, which allows me to use a polarizer when necessary, and to go a bit less wide on exterior shots.

BTW, I use a D800 and find that you need not be shy about cranking up the ISO when necessary.

Denis

--
I have made this letter a rather long one, only because I didn't have the leisure to make it shorter. Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662
 
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Take a look here for some good information on cameras, lenses, lighting and technique


I use a 14-24mm, 24PC, 45PC
 
I use a Samyang 14mm, Samyang 24mm and Nikon 28mm F3.5 PC

But most important is a TRIPOD. You could probably replace those with a 14-24 Nikon if you have the cash.

The ability to remove your self from Mirrors using the shift lens is a very good thing to have. If I could get a 17-18mm shift lens that would become my primary lens for this. ( I mainly shoot bathrooms )

The 28mm PC lens is a very good lens for this sort of photography if a little narrow.

Flash wise I use a SB910 and a dome diffuser
 
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I think the D800 is an overkill unless you are truly doing high ends custom stuff, which there are only a few. You can get away with a point and shoot camera for your typical tract homes. To be on the safe side, use a camera that looks big and heavy, and color black. An 18-55mm f2.8 on a DX camera should be adequate.
 
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Really not the correct question. Instead learn to use PS CS6 and its Transform filter. Then the Nikon 18-35 will work great on a Nikon FX - any FX. Or, use any Nikon DX and the Nikon 12-24. A cheaper solution and JUST as viable. This is a serious reply. Been there.
 
Steve Bingham wrote:

Really not the correct question. Instead learn to use PS CS6 and its Transform filter. Then the Nikon 18-35 will work great on a Nikon FX - any FX. Or, use any Nikon DX and the Nikon 12-24. A cheaper solution and JUST as viable. This is a serious reply. Been there.
 
larrywilson wrote:

I love my Nikon 17-35 f2.8 lens for a working and project lens. I do think you need a zoom for close courter type shooting, especially inside but also outside, more efficent. I would avoid the Nikon 16-35 f4.0 because of huge distortion at 16-18 mm focal length and also f4.0 is slow.
This is one time I will have to respectfully disagree with you, Larry. F4 might be slow, but that is partly why it has VR and VR is damned useful when light is low, just like interiors tend to be, and I have used it extensively inside churches, cathedrals and castles in Europe etc. Also, f4 gives more decent DOF over f2.8 for interiors when you are generally shooting at close range and when at close range, DOF is more limited. Distortion is easily correctible in post process.

Here is a shot inside Gloucester Cathedral. The walls are bending outwards because I was pointing the camera downwards (keystone) to get more of the floor, but the walls are at least straight not curved after some mild treatment of corrections in post process.

D700 + 16-35 f4 VR, 1/10s f/13.0 at 16.0mm iso3200 handheld

original.jpg




Here is a crop of the right lower corner to show that there is no corner softness.

original.jpg




D700 + 16-35 f4 VR, 1/6s f/8 at 16.0mm iso3200 handheld

Again, what distortion was there has been easily removed in post process and the walls are straight. However, VR was a great help at 1/6sec!!

original.jpg




D700 + 16-35 f4 VR, 1/10s f/8 at 16.0mm iso800 handheld

No issue with curved walls here either:

original.jpg




D700 + 16-35 f4 VR, 1/8s f/9 at 16.0mm iso2500 handheld

No issue with curved walls here either:

original.jpg


--
Lance B
 
larrywilson wrote:

I love my Nikon 17-35 f2.8 lens for a working and project lens. I do think you need a zoom for close courter type shooting, especially inside but also outside, more efficent. I would avoid the Nikon 16-35 f4.0 because of huge distortion at 16-18 mm focal length and also f4.0 is slow.

Larry

Do you shoot real estate interiors at f2.8 ?
 
The Tokina 16-28 2.8 is a great lens, but heavy! A heavy lens is a drag when shooting house interiors. The same goes for the 14-24. But if I want the best results, those are among the best choices. Either can be used wide open with very sharp results and I have shot both.

Distortion on the Nikon 16-35 can be corrected, but why bother? Either the Tokina 16-28 or Nikon 14-24 are better lenses and faster glass.

Robert
 
Shotcents wrote:

The Tokina 16-28 2.8 is a great lens, but heavy! A heavy lens is a drag when shooting house interiors. The same goes for the 14-24. But if I want the best results, those are among the best choices. Either can be used wide open with very sharp results and I have shot both.

Distortion on the Nikon 16-35 can be corrected, but why bother?
Because you still have to correct the Tokina 16-28 and the Nikon 14-24 anyway. So, if you're needing to correct these lenses anyway, then having to correct them you may as well correct the 16-35. Sheesh.
Either the Tokina 16-28 or Nikon 14-24 are better lenses and faster glass.
Well, that's very debatable, better in what way? They don't have VR? No? So, 16-35 is better as it has VR. Can they go to 35mm? No? then the 16-35 is a better lens for me and many others. Can they take screw in filters? Again no? Then the 16-35 is a better option for me many others. Faster glass is irrelevent when shooting interiors as f2.8 gives you no DOF. The 16-35 allows you to use decent apertures for DOF because it has VR and will allow a slower shutter speeds.

I own both the 16-35 and the 14-24 and I can tell you that the difference is minimal at best and I more foten than not select the 16-35 over the 14-24. The 14-24 has a slight edge under 20mm, but the 16-35 is better above 20mm and has VR and has an extended zoom range and can use filters etc etc.

When you say "better", you really need to quantify that, but then we've covered this sort of thing all before, haven't we.
 
I have both a 6D and a D800. Is that okay? I'm trying to decide the best real estate lens for either of the systems. So logically, I asked the Canon group and the Nikon group -- makes sense to me!!
 

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