papillon_65
Forum Pro
It uses CDAF focusing, why would it?perry rhodan wrote:
"The lens didn’t have any front or back focus tendency either." (see page 10)
Seriously?
regards perry
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It uses CDAF focusing, why would it?perry rhodan wrote:
"The lens didn’t have any front or back focus tendency either." (see page 10)
Seriously?
regards perry
Probably the latter, I'm sure they know reallyperry rhodan wrote:
Suppose you're asking LensTip? I do understand the concept of mirrorless not suffering from FF or BF.
It's their statement, makes it look they do not get it (seems highly unlikely) or simply a bad copy paste job.
;P
What I can't understand is people who make the assumption that CDAF on mirrorless is somehow immune to focus errors. Yet there are CDAF camera/lens combinations that give focus errors !?!perry rhodan wrote:
Suppose you're asking LensTip? I do understand the concept of mirrorless not suffering from FF or BF.
In my experience the only errors you get is when there is a chance that the focusing system can pick the background out in preference to the subject in front. Knowing this usually means it can be avoided. It's certainly more reliable than PDAF systems and you never need to worry about calibrating lenses and all that nonsense.Big Ga wrote:
What I can't understand is people who make the assumption that CDAF on mirrorless is somehow immune to focus errors. Yet there are CDAF camera/lens combinations that give focus errors !?!perry rhodan wrote:
Suppose you're asking LensTip? I do understand the concept of mirrorless not suffering from FF or BF.
I've always put this down to the fact that lenstip are using a camera that does not do any auto correction for panasonic lenses, such as barrel or ca correction, whereas photozone use one that auto corrects. Lenstip also use a raw converter dcraw that does not apply any corrections, a quote from their websiteSergey Borachev wrote:
I doubt that it is sample variation too. This is not helpful, when reviewers seem to disagree about this lens' performance. Photozone has reservation too about it s IQ.....
The lack of experience on your part doesn't change reality.papillon_65 wrote:
In my experience the only errors you get is when there is a chance that the focusing system can pick the background out in preference to the subject in front.Big Ga wrote:
What I can't understand is people who make the assumption that CDAF on mirrorless is somehow immune to focus errors. Yet there are CDAF camera/lens combinations that give focus errors !?!perry rhodan wrote:
Suppose you're asking LensTip? I do understand the concept of mirrorless not suffering from FF or BF.
Well I beg to differ as I've owned and used a considerable number of cameras, both DSLR's and mirrorless, but let me guess, you know something everybody else doesn't right???Big Ga wrote:
The lack of experience on your part doesn't change reality.papillon_65 wrote:
In my experience the only errors you get is when there is a chance that the focusing system can pick the background out in preference to the subject in front.Big Ga wrote:
What I can't understand is people who make the assumption that CDAF on mirrorless is somehow immune to focus errors. Yet there are CDAF camera/lens combinations that give focus errors !?!perry rhodan wrote:
Suppose you're asking LensTip? I do understand the concept of mirrorless not suffering from FF or BF.
I've started using the Lumix 12-35mm after DxO Optics (which automatically corrects vignetting) became part of my routine for developing RAW to JPEGs. So this is not a problem for me : even if DXO Optics wouldn't do its job perfectly, I wouldn't see vignetting unless that's very obvious. I simply don't have an eye for that.tjuster1 wrote:
Actually, to me the biggest issue isn't the flare but the vignetting--which appears to be really extreme at wide apertures. Has anyone noticed this in real photos being a problem?
Well, the flare samples at Lenstip don't look good. Though it should be admitted that their flare studies are not consistent across different lenses.daddyo wrote:
In regard to Flare, I generally avoid shooting into the sun (Photography 101), but when I have shot towards the sun, I have not seen any big problem with lens flare on my 12-35mm.
I think vignetting wide-open is a bit above certain standards. It may indeed be corrected in post, but sometimes this is not without cost - for instance, the dynamic range is reduced, and the known issues of lifting shadows tend to appear.In regard to vignetting, that too is basically a non-issue. Actually, I often add a tiny bit of vignette in post for artistic impact -- especially for portraits![]()
That's most important of allI personally, am extremely pleased with the performance of my 12-35mm.
And likely different at different FL's._sem_ wrote:
I think Lenstip reviews are mostly relevant and consistent.
Personally I guess I'd be bothered most by the nervous background bokeh (seems front bokeh is smooth but that's rarely useful). Though, some of the image samples show better bokeh than the test images. I guess bokeh looks different at different distances...
Right on. It's been my experience as well, whatever luxurious-sounding coating technologies are claimed. However, in most cases, you have to be very careful to obtain these fantastic light spots. Small perturbations in positioning and they weaken considerably and even disappear altogether. You have to try hard to get them, and don't need to try too hard to avoid them. I think this is the reason why a lot of users of this lens say that in real situations this is not that bad a problem at all.Well, the flare samples at Lenstip don't look good. Though it should be admitted that their flare studies are not consistent across different lenses.daddyo wrote:
In regard to Flare, I generally avoid shooting into the sun (Photography 101), but when I have shot towards the sun, I have not seen any big problem with lens flare on my 12-35mm.
I have a particular issue with one point:
"What’s more, artifacts can appear even if a source of bright light is outside the frame. Such problems shouldn’t have happened to a lens of this class."
I've been checking a few cameras and lenses lately, following the findings of Anders W regarding the 7-14 on OM-D, and I believe this is in fact a much more common issue that one may think. Really odd and intense effects tend to show up if you have a strong light source (the sun, LED flashlight) just outside the otherwise dark frame at certain angles. I believe this is a sort of a diffraction phenomenon.
How practically this affects pictures can be debated. I have an example from a lens at an aperture which is supposed to vignette really badly (PL25 wide open). As can be seen the vignetting is evident, but most people who viewed the photo have not noticed it. This is in an example scene where you'd think vignetting would be highly undesirable with a lens set to an aperture noted for a high level of vignetting, and in practice it did not matter that much. In most other situations this level of vignetting (kind of similar to what the 12-35 is capable of) would probably hurt even less.I think vignetting wide-open is a bit above certain standards. It may indeed be corrected in post, but sometimes this is not without cost - for instance, the dynamic range is reduced, and the known issues of lifting shadows tend to appear.In regard to vignetting, that too is basically a non-issue. Actually, I often add a tiny bit of vignette in post for artistic impact -- especially for portraits![]()
ExactlyThat's most important of allI personally, am extremely pleased with the performance of my 12-35mm.![]()
With a single spot, it should indeed be possible to work around by changing the angle or shading the lens (a circular hood doesn't help here, and the hood typically doesn't help with a zoom - it'd take a zooming petal one). But I think it is more difficult with large lights or reflections which "cover" problem areas, producing a veil. I wander if there is perhaps a solution to this on the lens mount or sensor side.tt321 wrote:
Right on. It's been my experience as well, whatever luxurious-sounding coating technologies are claimed. However, in most cases, you have to be very careful to obtain these fantastic light spots. Small perturbations in positioning and they weaken considerably and even disappear altogether. You have to try hard to get them, and don't need to try too hard to avoid them. I think this is the reason why a lot of users of this lens say that in real situations this is not that bad a problem at all."What’s more, artifacts can appear even if a source of bright light is outside the frame. Such problems shouldn’t have happened to a lens of this class."
I've been checking a few cameras and lenses lately, following the findings of Anders W regarding the 7-14 on OM-D, and I believe this is in fact a much more common issue than one may think. Really odd and intense effects tend to show up if you have a strong light source (the sun, LED flashlight) just outside the otherwise dark frame at certain angles. I believe this is a sort of a diffraction phenomenon.
That would be a good place to startHmmm.Sergey Borachev wrote:
Thanks. An excellent review. The "bad" flare problem is the only signficant one found by Lentip.
Interestingly, there was no problem at all for Steve Huff, who listed flare control as a Pro for this lens
I think what that tells me is that I need to be very suspicious of any Steve Huff reviews ......
I doubt it. When we had the 7-14/4 discussion a while back, my samples were in very bright sunlight in Asia (Cambodia). Another's were from a desert town, again with very strong sun. These were the worst examples posted. Others samples with evidently less strong light were not as severe, which to me suggested a correlation between the intensity of the source and severity of the flare, but I don't think everyone agreed (lol, it is the m43 forum).Could the flare issue be due to sample variation?