Could anyone PP-rescue this ghastly pic for me?? - I can't re-take it.

Mikedigi

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Nikon D90 on AWB, no flash, 1600 ISO, in a friend's house up north, may have been tungsten lighting on a dimmer switch???

I have attacked it with PSE5, Arcsoft PhotoStudio6, Picasa and FastStone, but have failed to get the colour reasonable. This is a reduction of the OOC JPEG.

If you can help, I would presumably need your direct email address via private message, so that I can attach the full size file to an email???

I don't want it cropped, I can just about manage that myself!

If you succeed, I would like to know roughly how!!!

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Regards,

Mike
 
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Within the limitations of JPG, using PSE 7, I opened your picture and went to Levels. I then corrected the red. after that I corrected the blue channel.

The result seemed acceptable to me. Anyway much better than the original picture!




Arnoud

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--
keep on shooting!
 
Mike a quick 20 seconds with Photogene. Main change was to tint, with PSE this would be under Enhancements and colour/ hue adjustment. Also, depending on original, saturation would need to be tweaked. PM me if you'd like me work on the original, which I'd do on my PC. Stuart

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Well, at least I have found the reason for the problem. The bulbs in the wall lamps on either side are the old tungsten type, golf ball-ish size, only 40W, and tinted red.

I should have checked first.

Mike
 
Wow !!..that is REALLY bad...I've got pics from a 10-year old P&S that are better... it was very surely a VERY wrong setting somewhere. and it just doresn't seem to have such a great sharpness..maybe the result of the bad lighting NON-correction.~
I can't even begin to remember ALL the things and Filters I tried in CS.. but although I suppose it's better..I'm not sure it is what you may think presentable...

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ericn31/BadColorpic-CS.jpg
 
Mike, this is what I'd do with it. 20 secs with Filtered B&W, Autocontrast and Fill-light in Picasa. Do you really want to keep those colours?

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Richard

Mr Ichiro Kitao of Panasonic, please update the FZ50. The ergonomics in a superzoom remain unsurpassed.
 
Work on the colours a bit depending on what 'you' saw in real life, use detail brush to tweak skin tones...




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I would crop it to hide the curtain rod.

BTW I am in this forum because I am interested in the LX7 ;-)




Cropped
Cropped




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Ben
C&C are always welcome.
 





Great thread Mike, it is fun to try to rescue shots like this & it's great color practice.

This is my attempt, only problem is all the color bending revealed alot of noise & hot pixels in the shot.

I started in Photoshop, adjusted color for skin tone, opened in DXO Filmpack & selected color positive film "Polaroid 690".



Dan.
 
Looks like you had some good attempts above with your image.

This is classic reason why you should shoot Raw or at least Raw + Jpeg, that way you have both files and can easily tweak the white balance of the Raw file in post ;)


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ericN2 wrote:

Wow !!..that is REALLY bad...I've got pics from a 10-year old P&S that are better . . . .
Eric, as I said above, it was not the camera:

"Well, at least I have found the reason for the problem. The bulbs in the wall lamps on either side are the old tungsten type, golf ball-ish size, only 40W, and tinted red."

So the camera had little chance

Mike
 
Hi Mike. That's a pretty raucous crowd you've got there :-)

Here's my attempt. I used Photoshop's Auto Tone, Contrast, and Color menu items followed by a Levels Adjustment Layer and a Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer where I worked to adjust the individual colors.

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Roger



 

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Mike,

My wife did this with a program called Digital ROC (restoration of color) using its defautl settings. If you have a good image of the actual wall and drapes color, and/or a suitable "white" spot I suspect she could get a more accurate correction.

Sherm
 
Yikes! At work we used to get pix like this now and then, I recall smacking the back of several photogs heads over stuff like this....

You have something we used to call colour cross over where no matter which way you went you had problems. The other problem is the camera blew out the highlights which means any automatic programs are probably going to make things worse.

You probably will never get anything close to the right colour, I really like the B&W versions as they are a lot better. But with some CS picking apart by using curves, hue and satch, and shadow/highlight I can make something that looks a bit less yellow but basically in terms of ever getting it close colour wise I kind of doubt it.




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