Badminton (indoor action) photos - need advice

[Alex Buchanan]

Hi all,

Today I finally made a variety of tests taking some badminton action pics inside my club, where the lighting is quite tough and flash is a no-no.

I've come out with some semi-satisfactory results but would like to know if I can change anything to improve the quality of the photos.

As of yet, only 800 and 1600 ISO photos are usable, and they tend to look crummy at anything larger than 320x240 resolution (grainy and very imprecise) I've been using 1/60 shutter speed and f/2.8 aperture.

Samples are posted here: http://www.pbase.com/alexbuchanan/badmintontests

Any suggestions on how I could improve results? It looks absolutely fine cropped to a small image but I'd like to get an as-crisp-as-possible photo at at least 640x480 and higher.

Any comments would be dearly appreciated

Many thanks,

alex

--
Alex Buchanan ([email protected])
Montreal, QC, Canada
http://www.bh.qc.ca

 

[ga-ga]

Alex,
I can't think of any other stops you can pull out!
probrably why you've not had much response.........
Interesting post of the three ISO's at full capacity (1/60th 2.8)
demonstrates just how useful the 1600 can be....!
you might try slower shutter speeds and multi exposure (last 5)

with shots of movement some instants have less movement and different effect on results (eg just waiting for the bird to fall..)

your only other option is improve the lighting - (which might be good for the badminton too) and/or try a different hall.....

Hi all,

Today I finally made a variety of tests taking some badminton
action pics inside my club, where the lighting is quite tough and
flash is a no-no.

I've come out with some semi-satisfactory results but would like to
know if I can change anything to improve the quality of the photos.

As of yet, only 800 and 1600 ISO photos are usable, and they tend
to look crummy at anything larger than 320x240 resolution (grainy
and very imprecise) I've been using 1/60 shutter speed and f/2.8
aperture.

Samples are posted here:
http://www.pbase.com/alexbuchanan/badmintontests

Any suggestions on how I could improve results? It looks
absolutely fine cropped to a small image but I'd like to get an
as-crisp-as-possible photo at at least 640x480 and higher.

Any comments would be dearly appreciated

Many thanks,

alex

--
Alex Buchanan ([email protected])
Montreal, QC, Canada
http://www.bh.qc.ca

 

[Alex Buchanan]

Thanks ga-ga,

I'll experiment a little more tonight with some different shutter speeds and multi-exposure. I'll see if I can crank anything else out. I can get some pretty nice pics with flash mode on, but they'll have to be non-official.

And I can't do much about lighting, this is a national tournament centre so it already adheres to all the lighting standards.

I will post some more try-outs later on.

alex

Alex,
I can't think of any other stops you can pull out!
probrably why you've not had much response.........
Interesting post of the three ISO's at full capacity (1/60th 2.8)
demonstrates just how useful the 1600 can be....!
you might try slower shutter speeds and multi exposure (last 5)
with shots of movement some instants have less movement and
different effect on results (eg just waiting for the bird to fall..)
your only other option is improve the lighting - (which might be
good for the badminton too) and/or try a different hall.....

--

Alex Buchanan ([email protected])
Montreal, QC, Canada
http://www.bh.qc.ca

 

[Pieter Gordebeke]

Thanks ga-ga,

I'll experiment a little more tonight with some different shutter
speeds and multi-exposure. I'll see if I can crank anything else
out. I can get some pretty nice pics with flash mode on, but
they'll have to be non-official.

When you say multi-exposure, you probably mean auto bracketing, right? In addition, you could try exposure compensation to make the image a little lighter.

You said you can't use a flash - do you mean it's not allowed? Surely you are close enough to use a good external flash. If so, you should get great results at ISO 160 or 200.

Pieter

 

[Alex Buchanan]

Well in a competitive match, flashes are not really permitted since it would bother the athletes. In a non-critical moment, it would be ok to use the flash. I've taken some pictures at ISO 160 with flash and close-up and they come out great, so that's always a good option.

When you say multi-exposure, you probably mean auto bracketing,
right? In addition, you could try exposure compensation to make the
image a little lighter.

You said you can't use a flash - do you mean it's not allowed?
Surely you are close enough to use a good external flash. If so,
you should get great results at ISO 160 or 200.

Pieter

--
Alex Buchanan ([email protected])
Montreal, QC, Canada
http://www.bh.qc.ca

 

[RJNedimyer]

Hi all,

Today I finally made a variety of tests taking some badminton
action pics inside my club, where the lighting is quite tough and
flash is a no-no.

I've come out with some semi-satisfactory results but would like to
know if I can change anything to improve the quality of the photos.

As of yet, only 800 and 1600 ISO photos are usable, and they tend
to look crummy at anything larger than 320x240 resolution (grainy
and very imprecise) I've been using 1/60 shutter speed and f/2.8
aperture.

Samples are posted here:
http://www.pbase.com/alexbuchanan/badmintontests

Any suggestions on how I could improve results? It looks
absolutely fine cropped to a small image but I'd like to get an
as-crisp-as-possible photo at at least 640x480 and higher.

Any comments would be dearly appreciated

Many thanks,

alex

--
Alex Buchanan ([email protected])
Montreal, QC, Canada
http://www.bh.qc.ca

I took your 400 ISO shot (only the 600X800 shot since my time is limited) and did the following:
1. gama to 2.0
2. Brightness increased by 35%
3. Contrast increased by 30%
4. White balanced it (took 2 tries)

I t did not look too bad (better than the 800ISO shot and about equal to the 1600 shot) Remember I did not use the full shot if you yours should bre much better.

Consider the following:
1. a monopod

2. setting the camera ISO at 400 and doing some work after wards [PSP or PS amoung others]. Try this ahead of time
3. INCREASE Lighting!!!
A. make sure all lights are on
B. see if you can add lights

C. Try a strong flash bounced off ceiling and see it that bothers the competitors prior to matches (probably will not but check and if it does not and allows a good shutter speed Ask for permission)
4. MOST important shoot in the 3 or 6 MP setting with a good white balance

Good luck you are pusing the limits of physics with this one.

The only other options I can think of is get a S2 {or other SLR} with a very fast fixed lens (f1.4) that will gain you 2 stops but really cost you big $$$$

--
Ray
RJNedimyer

 

[Alex Buchanan]

Hi Ray,

Thanks for the tips. I'll try working around with the ISO400 pics with your settings. Unfortunately, there's nothing much I can do about lighting for true candid photos since the game has requirements in terms of lighting and flash, etc.. in a "studio" situation, I could pump in some extra lighting to get some fake shots, but that's about it.

Unfortunately my budget doesn't allow for SLRs! I'd love to have one though. I've seen action shots with the Canon SLR.. incredible

The ceiling is way too high for flash bouncing.. (appx 150 feet high)

I shall continue tweaking around and research the best possible settings and techniques for getting that right shot.

Thanks,

Alex

I took your 400 ISO shot (only the 600X800 shot since my time is
limited) and did the following:
1. gama to 2.0
2. Brightness increased by 35%
3. Contrast increased by 30%
4. White balanced it (took 2 tries)

I t did not look too bad (better than the 800ISO shot and about
equal to the 1600 shot) Remember I did not use the full shot if you
yours should bre much better.

Consider the following:
1. a monopod
2. setting the camera ISO at 400 and doing some work after wards
[PSP or PS amoung others]. Try this ahead of time
3. INCREASE Lighting!!!
A. make sure all lights are on
B. see if you can add lights
C. Try a strong flash bounced off ceiling and see it that bothers
the competitors prior to matches (probably will not but check and
if it does not and allows a good shutter speed Ask for permission)
4. MOST important shoot in the 3 or 6 MP setting with a good white
balance

Good luck you are pusing the limits of physics with this one.

The only other options I can think of is get a S2 {or other SLR}
with a very fast fixed lens (f1.4) that will gain you 2 stops but
really cost you big $$$$

--
Ray
RJNedimyer

--
Alex Buchanan ([email protected])
Montreal, QC, Canada
http://www.bh.qc.ca