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Macro Lens to shoot Jewelry....
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Messiah Complex
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Cheap and easy solution is a set of Extension Tubes. Just make sure you get ones with electronic contacts for aperture control.
amosf
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Is the 18-55 not quite enough? like if you crop the shot?
I will have to try my Tamron 90mm 2.8 on jewellery. I do mostly bugs and stuff. Nice lens tho if you want a specific macro lens at a reasonable cost. Or just get an extension tube for the kit lens.
I will have to try my Tamron 90mm 2.8 on jewellery. I do mostly bugs and stuff. Nice lens tho if you want a specific macro lens at a reasonable cost. Or just get an extension tube for the kit lens.
Limburger
Veteran Member
For macro 60-100mm and for flash with relative low ceilings (bounce flashing) a 430EX II would do fine.
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Guys i am thinking of Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro Lens , whats u guys opinion? i also see some variations in that lens L and the non-L and the price difference is about 20k? can u guys let me know the difference... also is it worth spending that extra money?
amosf
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It's a nice lens. I came close to buying it, but then went with the cheaper option as it fit my needs. I think the non-L version is very good, but others will likely confirm that. The Canon has nice focus from what I hear. I wasn't too worried about that as I knew I would be doing mostly manual focus.
My favorite lens is the 100L Macro. From an optics point of view there is nothing bad to say about the 100 non L, non USM Macro which I still have. However the new L appears to be sharper (perception, no scientific test done), and the colors are just a dream. I use it as my portrait lens as well on FF body. IS is very nice too, if you see a reuse beyond Macro.
If you are on a budget, the 100 non L has a very good reputation, and the used prices seem to be very reasonable. I would not get the old non USM if you need AF, because AF totally sucks on the old version, and it can not be serviced any more in most countries. Spend the extra money for the USM non L.
There is also a 60mm 2.8 Macro for the crop bodies getting very good reports. I can't offer any direct experience with this version though.
Good luck with your choice.
billythek
Veteran Member
The main problem here is the lighting. Get a good light modifier or use a soft box (or get one of those expensive circular macro flashes).
brightcolours
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The difference is the build quality (the L version is dust and moisture sealed) and image stabilization.
You do not need either of those (indoor tripod work). The difference in optic quality is so marginal that you can not tell them apart in random photos.
I would prefer a wider lens for jewelry photography, to get a nicer perspective in the images... Not a huge fan of the tele perspective 90-105mm give on APS-C when photographing small objects.
My suggestion would be 35mm on APS-C, and 50 or 70mm on full frame.
That will give you the following options:
Canon EF 35mm f2 with 12mm + 25mm extension tube
Tokina 35mm f2.8 DX Macro
Canon EF 50mm f2.5 1:2 macro
Sigma 50mm f2.8 macro
Sigma 70mm f2.8 Macro
The shorter macro lenses won't give you enough room for lighting. The 100 would be perfect, and there is no reason to go for IS on the L.
you might be able to get away with the Canon 60 or Tamron 90 for this. I have tried to use the Sigma 50 and lighting can be a problem with the short working distances. You can get the Canon 100 nonL and a ring flash for little more than the L macro lens.
you might be able to get away with the Canon 60 or Tamron 90 for this. I have tried to use the Sigma 50 and lighting can be a problem with the short working distances. You can get the Canon 100 nonL and a ring flash for little more than the L macro lens.
I would recommend this lens. I presume when you talk about diamonds etc. that you may also go very close to the diamonds, so that the normal close-up of the standard kit lens (18-55 IS) is not enough. The latter would of course be fine for photographing a complete necklace for example.
THe L version has IS, is weather sealed etc., and perhaps a little sharper. But the Canon 100mm macro is very sharp lens, so no issues with that. And since you seem to be in the "studio", you will work off a good tripod (if you don't have one, buy a good one with the money you save buying a 100mm macro, instead of the 100mm macro L), where IS is not useful.
The 100mm range gives you more working distance than with the Canon 60mm macro (which is also a very good lens), so it will be easier to illuminate your jewels from all angles, even at the highest magnification (1:1) to make them really shine and sparkle.
neil bayin
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My suggestion is EF-S 60mm f/2.8 lens, a good tripod and a small lighting setup, the difference between a macro lens and normal lens is the macro lens is extremely sharp, you can get a very clear image with a macro that you might have trouble using a 18-55...
Also, i would suggest that you can take a look at a focus stacking software such a helicon, it can stack multiple image with different focus distance and get a high DOF image.
Also, i would suggest that you can take a look at a focus stacking software such a helicon, it can stack multiple image with different focus distance and get a high DOF image.
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I'll second the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro. For product photography on a crop sensor camera it is the perfect lens. Reasonable focal length for inanimate objects. It is the top scoring macro for the 7D on DXOMark. Super sharp and the best contrast. It is also a nice length for portraits and has the bokeh to work well for that application.
100L is also a very nice lens but more than 2X the cost. A little long for portraits on a crop but it has IS.
100L is also a very nice lens but more than 2X the cost. A little long for portraits on a crop but it has IS.
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EmmanuelStarchild
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I agree with the others that recommend the EF-S 60mm. GREAT macro lense.
The most inexepensive option, IMO, would be the 500D close up lense. They have 58mm.
The most inexepensive option, IMO, would be the 500D close up lense. They have 58mm.
pixel_peeper
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When we look at diamonds and other gems, we try to get the light almost directly behind us so that the internal reflections in the gem come straight back. In other words, the angle between the light source and the camera should be kept small for this kind of shot. That is only possible with a long lens at a long working distance. The new Sigma 180 mm is brilliant but expensive, and you might have to be careful with flare.
http://www.lenstip.com/index.php?test=obiektywu&test_ob=355
Your APS-C setup would be better than full frame because it has a longer working distance for a given framing. It would be fun experimenting with light sources (more than one?). Something close to a point source would give more sparkle. It would be important not to blow out the specular highlights because they can have brilliant colours due to the gem's dispersion.
http://www.lenstip.com/index.php?test=obiektywu&test_ob=355
Your APS-C setup would be better than full frame because it has a longer working distance for a given framing. It would be fun experimenting with light sources (more than one?). Something close to a point source would give more sparkle. It would be important not to blow out the specular highlights because they can have brilliant colours due to the gem's dispersion.
Planning for Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens , will tht be a better option if price is not a constrain?
brightcolours
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Better why?
EmmanuelStarchild
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It depends. The 60mm macro on a crop sensor will have a comparative filed of view similar to a 100mm lens on a full frame.
The 100mm lense you referenced on a crop sensor will have a comparative field of view similar to 160mm on a full frame. If you're ONLY doing jewelry and other stationary objects, then the 60mm is more than enough for your needs.
But, maybe you want to do some macro work on live objects that are skittish(insects and such)? Then yes, the 100mm would serve a great dual purpose. You could stand farther away with the longer focal length.
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EmmanuelStarchild
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As far as image quality goes, I doubt you will see any difference between the two. If fact, the 60 is a newer lens with better coatings...you might get better IQ with the 60.
Again, the only element you gain with the 100mm is the ability to stand further back.
Again, the only element you gain with the 100mm is the ability to stand further back.
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