Brand New ZS15 owner, need some help.

[MickTarheel]

First I am a camera novice, actually disabled so others have to take pictures for me so I needed a great p&s in auto mode. And panasonic seems to have the best, my old camera was a Canon Powershot A720IS. I love the zoom, love the outdoor pics in sunshine but my fear was lowlight. Now maybe no p&s will do very good indoors? Size is an issue so I need a smaller cam so others can just grab it for me and shoot. I was very happy with the size and speed. But several indoor and one outdoor pic leaves me wondering if I need to return. This lighting was actually not that dark except in a few. Once in a Cannon fourm they said the finger was too close to the flash. I know nothing about ISO, etc but I am uploading some imagies, are these normal for lower lighting shots? And the flash is set to auto, it flashes on all indoor pics except the praying mantis, outdoor but under walkway

























Thank you!

 

[Ronald A Yorko]

Camera seems fine. Flash results are typical for an on camera flash, and compact cameras have fairly small ones.

On my ZS3 I've found OK results on flash photos that are too dark by turning up the exposure compensation maybe 1/3, and down 1/3 if too bright. This can be done in Auto mode (IA). Best results are trying indoor pictures with the flash turned off and holding it steady.

Some users have had luck using an extra external slave flash because the on camera one can't cover a large area- they are inexpensive and worthwhile if you are going to take many indoor shots- here's a link to a nice one- the camera attaches to the bracket with the tripod screw.
http://www.amazon.com/Zeikos-ZE-DS12-Digital-bracket-digital/dp/B001M90S7S

The Mantis photo is just out of focus on the bug- maybe you were too close, but Auto mode (IA) should switch to Macro. When the bug is in focus the focusing square will turn green Sometimes you have to try to focus several times, maybe move back awhile.

Practicing and trying different things should get you better results as you get familiar with the camera.

 

[Andrew MM]

I don't have the camera yet but the main issue is a weak flash and a wide shooting angle. Try zooming in a little prior and the flash will have better coverage. This is very common on wide angle small cameras. Zoom out/wide for outside shots.

 

[wkay]

Nothing wrong with your camera.

1. Remember that light falls off (dimishes) by the square of the distance from the source (flash). That means really fast and way out of the dymanic range of the camera in a very short distance. Flash DOF will only be a few feet.
So,

2. Make sure your subject is the closest object to the flash and framed by the exposure brackets
3. Make sure the subject takes up a good percentage of the frame.
Your pics-
1. Dog's reflectively causes underexposure of the remainder.

2. Reflective tablecloth in front of subject causes underexposure of the subject.

3. Spot on, your subject is perfectly exposed, background is dark because of rapid falloff of light intensity from the source.

4. Daylight from the window dominates the exposure. Close the blinds or meter off the darker part of the room, dont know if your model has a fill flash option. Did flash go off at all? Set it to always on.

5. Looks about right, the white post drives the exposure, use one stop flash compensation to drive brightness up. Mantis is blurred, move to macro mode.

6. Good exposure, wide angle lens exceeds the coverage of the flash so some vignetting.

Look for external flashes to get better lighting. For ZS15 you are looking at slave flashes which will require operation in manual mode to get best exposures.

 

[MickTarheel]

Ok the camera seems fine, good to know. I had no idea about this, but I will try exposure compensation maybe 1/3 up. Indoors with flash off, no problem but holding it steady is another. In those pics, I'm in the guy in the wheelchair, paralyzed from chest down so whoever is around me grabs my cam and shoots the pic for me. That external flash is really low cost, maybe I'll look into one. The praying mantis, I agree about the focus. My friend wasn't close to it but she used the zoom and outside she may not had been able to see the green? I know i can turn up the screen for brightness. UPDATE..I have the brightness, contrast, gamma and hue turned way down on my computer. I turned them up and the pics look much better, still lacking but I'll print out a few and look.

Camera seems fine. Flash results are typical for an on camera flash, and compact cameras have fairly small ones.

 

[MickTarheel]

I don't have the camera yet but the main issue is a weak flash and a wide shooting angle. Try zooming in a little prior and the flash will have better coverage. This is very common on wide angle small cameras. Zoom out/wide for outside shots.

Thanks, zooming in a little shouldn't hurt the IQ, I'll remember these tips.

 

[MickTarheel]

Thanks wkay, great detailed info even though a little over my head. I googled underexposure but can't find a good simple explanation, but saw the full range of the sensor isn't being used. What is the best/easiest way to not underexsposure if there is one? That seems to be my main problem. Indoors, or low light the subject must be close, 5 feet or less, correct? And make sure the subject, any subject is framed. How do I turn on, or use use one stop flash compensation in Auto mode or is it available in auto mode? #4, yes the flash fired. So unless I am outdoors, set the camera to flash forced on, correct? I can buy an external flash as this cam was only $182, but I have people always shoot in Iauto only. You said use manual mode but I assume the external flash would still make the pics better using Iauto mode. Can you suggest a external flash for my ZS15? I am going to call Panny tech about underexsposure and one stop flash compensensation, how to use these features. Cannon tech was the best, Panny so far not but we'll see after this call. Your post was awesome....thanks

Nothing wrong with your camera.

1. Remember that light falls off (dimishes) by the square of the distance from the source (flash). That means really fast and way out of the dymanic range of the camera in a very short distance. Flash DOF will only be a few feet.
So,

2. Make sure your subject is the closest object to the flash and framed by the exposure brackets
3. Make sure the subject takes up a good percentage of the frame.
Your pics-
1. Dog's reflectively causes underexposure of the remainder.

2. Reflective tablecloth in front of subject causes underexposure of the subject.

3. Spot on, your subject is perfectly exposed, background is dark because of rapid falloff of light intensity from the source.

4. Daylight from the window dominates the exposure. Close the blinds or meter off the darker part of the room, dont know if your model has a fill flash option. Did flash go off at all? Set it to always on.

5. Looks about right, the white post drives the exposure, use one stop flash compensation to drive brightness up. Mantis is blurred, move to macro mode.

6. Good exposure, wide angle lens exceeds the coverage of the flash so some vignetting.

Look for external flashes to get better lighting. For ZS15 you are looking at slave flashes which will require operation in manual mode to get best exposures.

 

[MickTarheel]

Panasonic tech wasn't much, if any help. He did say my camera doesn't have a flash fill option. He had no idea what use one stop flash compensation, saying I must be talking to professional photo takers...he said my model wasn't made for a external flash and wouldn't use one. as for this suggestion:

on my ZS3 I've found OK results on flash photos that are too dark by turning up the exposure compensation maybe 1/3, and down 1/3 if too bright. This can be done in Auto mode (IA)

He said different, older model. Mine is 2012 and this isn't an option in IA, he said use Aperture mode, after I told him I only shoot in IA. So can you guys help? for underexsposure I have to use A mode according to him.

 

[Ronald A Yorko]

I don't know the degree of mobility you have with your hands. but while it costs a few bucks a tripod can be used to hold the camera. The self timer is a handy tool also when using a tripod. Good luck.

 

[Jack Brandt217]

Mick, since your photographic knowledge is a beginner, i think you might benefit from a course in basic photogaphy or, if you are unable to get out for it a book of the basics might do just as well. At least it would give you an understanding of the terminology. Good luck.

Jack
--
http://www.pbase.com/jbrandt

 

[MickTarheel]

I don't know the degree of mobility you have with your hands. but while it costs a few bucks a tripod can be used to hold the camera. The self timer is a handy tool also when using a tripod. Good luck.

I can't use my hands at all. Why I have to get others to take pics for me, but my aid could use the tripod I assume..thanks.

 

[MickTarheel]

Mick, since your photographic knowledge is a beginner, i think you might benefit from a course in basic photogaphy or, if you are unable to get out for it a book of the basics might do just as well. At least it would give you an understanding of the terminology. Good luck.

Jack
--
http://www.pbase.com/jbrandt

Thank you Jack, I will have to look into this as knowledge is power. Can someone tell me why this pic is so white/washed out. It is the exact same settings and at the same location as pic @2 in my original thread but nothing





nothing like that pic.

 

[Jack Brandt217]

Hello again Mick, That photo is an example of overexposure. That means the camera sensor has recieved too much light. That can be fixed by editing it in an editing program such as Photoshop Elements or Picasa to name just 2 of many. The best solution to that problem would be to lessen the amount of light the sensor recieves. This can be achieved by setting the exposure compensation in the camera to minus 1/3, minus 2/3 or even minus 1. There should be a way to do that in the camera's menu. Find someone who is familiar with digital cameras to do that for you and you will notice improved results. Also, you sometimes have to press the shutter button halfway and hold it there for a second so the camera has time to come to proper focus.

--I have tried to use terminology that woud be understandable to a beginner. Hope I have succeded. Keep plugging away and it will all fall into place.

Jack

http://www.pbase.com/jbrandt

 

[MickTarheel]

Yes Jack you were very helpful and I figured it was overexposure since the ones I posted that were darker were underexsposed. I am learning some stuff, actually in this thread someone said to change the exposure compensation for underexsposured by 1/3. Who that mentioned it said on his ZS3 I think, it could be done in Auto mode. I called Panasonic tech and the guy had no clue what exposure compensation was, shocked me. He said I must be talking to photo experts and the ZS3 was an earlier model and left it at that. Shutter button down until green frame is up. I did change all settings back to factory and the darker situation pics look bright. I do have Photoshop, but if my ZS15 has a exposure compensation in the menu I haven't found it..yet....thank you!

Hello again Mick, That photo is an example of overexposure. That means the camera sensor has recieved too much light. That can be fixed by editing it in an editing program such as Photoshop Elements or Picasa to name just 2 of many. The best solution to that problem would be to lessen the amount of light the sensor recieves. This can be achieved by setting the exposure compensation in the camera to minus 1/3, minus 2/3 or even minus 1. There should be a way to do that in the camera's menu. Find someone who is familiar with digital cameras to do that for you and you will notice improved results. Also, you sometimes have to press the shutter button halfway and hold it there for a second so the camera has time to come to proper focus.

--I have tried to use terminology that woud be understandable to a beginner. Hope I have succeded. Keep plugging away and it will all fall into place.

Jack

http://www.pbase.com/jbrandt

 

[mackey1001]

... I called Panasonic tech and the guy had no clue what ...

Hey, Micky! Looks like you've gotten some help and good advice from the forum, and (no surprise) little help from Panasonic tech support. I've almost never had good luck with any company tech support line, and usually end up telling them things they don't know

but if my ZS15 has a exposure compensation in the menu I haven't found it..yet

I'll add my suggestions:

• In "iA" mode, you don't have the exposure compensation option. It's available in most any other mode, for example "P" mode or even SCENE modes
• Since others will be taking pictures for you, you may want to take advantage of the "Custom" presets modes, that allow to customize settings and save them for quick use later. Then you have quick already preset options.

In your situation, I'd suggest a few ways to set up your camera:
................................

1) You can use "iA" for general usage, and times when there is no challenging lighting indoors or outdoors (set the flash to iAuto mode, by clicking the RIGHT Button and selecting)

2) For -1/3EV Exposure Compensation with Forced Flash custom C1 preset, turn to "P" mode. Click the UP button to get to +-EV, click one time the LEFT button to go from 0 to -1/3 EV, click the CENTER button to select.

Then click the RIGHT button to select FLASH MODE. Click up/down to get to FORCED FLASH ON, and then MIDDLE menu button to select and Save.

Then, click the MIDDLE menu button, click 2 times RIGHT to go to SETUP, keep clicking the DOWN button to get to CUST SET MEM, click MIDDLE button to Select, select C1 and middle button, click YES to save to C1, to save your custom settings to the C1 option on your top MODE DIAL.

3) Now, while still in "P" mode, go to FLASH MODE setup as before, and this time select FORCED FLASH OFF and MIDDLE button to select.

Then, click TOP button twice to get to AUTO BRACKET MODE. Click 2 times RIGHT, to auto bracket +-2/3 EV and then middle SELECT button to save.

Then, like above, click the MIDDLE menu button, click 2 times RIGHT to go to SETUP, keep clicking the DOWN button to get to CUST SET MEM, click MIDDLE button to Select, select C2-1 and middle button, click YES to save to C2-1, to save your custom settings to the C2 option on your top MODE DIAL.

Note C2 is different, in that when you turn the top CONTROL DIAL to C2, you have to select C2-1, -2 or -3 (this setting have three available custom presets).
................................

Hope I captured this correctly. If you do the above, you have 3 saved options for pictures that should cover most situations, and give you more chance of better photos:
................................
1) first will be iA auto mode with auto flash when needed

2) second will be a -1/3 EV setting with forced flash for indoors or backlit scene, saved to C1 mode on dial

3) third will be a bracketed exposure mode that automatically shoots 3 pictures in succession with forced flash OFF at -1 EV, -1/3EV and +1/3 EV. Then, you can select afterward which of the 3 pictures you prefer. Very convenient, and quick option, for multiple shots all at one time.

Good luck, and hope this helps
-M1

 

[wkay]

camera is guessing at the exposure.. the dark green background may have overly influenced the algorithm as it seems normally exposed. Composing shots with small onboard flash is notoriously difficult. Some cameras have flash exposure compensation, from your tech discussion this one evidently does not. Does normal exposure compensation help? Does this model offer a histogram display so that you can judge exposure accuracy?

 

[wkay]

external flash will be a slave flash. some flashes are fixed output only so you need to set f-stop using guide number calculation in your head. some auto flashes like Metz 28CS-2 allow you to set iso and f-stop on the flash to match what you set on the camera and avoid the GN calculation but again it averages what it sees. Subject really needs to be at least 5 ft infront of the background, in your photo the subjects are too close to a dark wall and the camera tries to average the whole thing. Shooting in iAuto will be a problem because the flash doesnt know what iso/f-stop the camera is using. If you want serious flash photog you need to upgrade to a camera with a TTL hot shoe..

 

[wkay]

your subjects are less than 25% of the image area, was face detection enabled?

 

[MickTarheel]

Now that is some detailed info, thank you M...I will copy and save this, yea their tech isn't very good Appreciate that knowledge my friend..

... I called Panasonic tech and the guy had no clue what ...

Hey, Micky! Looks like you've gotten some help and good advice from the forum,

 

[MickTarheel]

Why yes I saw histogram as I saw it today while looking at the options so another thanks! Now to google this feature.......

camera is guessing at the exposure.. the dark green background may have overly influenced the algorithm as it seems normally exposed. Composing shots with small onboard flash is notoriously difficult. Some cameras have flash exposure compensation, from your tech discussion this one evidently does not. Does normal exposure compensation help? Does this model offer a histogram display so that you can judge exposure accuracy?