Sharpening Software

charley5

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Hi Everyone:

Someone mentioned a sharpening software on this forum that apparently was a cut above other options. I think it was a PS plugin but I am not sure. I lost the link for it. I did a search, but no luck. Can anyone recommend any sharpening software that they have found effective?

Thanks,

-Charles
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try the trial version and see if it suits my purposes.

-Charles
 
I have always used the bicubic PhotoShop method - that works better than most I have tried - but I must confess that I use very little sharpening anyway - the quality of the lenses being the first line, every time. I still use, by choice, the older film full-format 15-30EX and 24-70EX that I got when I bought the SD9 in 2003, when they first appeared in the UK -I had one of the first that came into the country.

I am sure I remember reading a post quite some time back by Laurence Matson that confirmed he had found this method good too.

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I have always used the bicubic PhotoShop method
You have me slightly confused, surely bicubic is for re-sizing not sharpening?

I use Photoshop's Smart Sharpen which seems to do the best job. I have tried Focus Magic but I didn't think it was sufficiently better to justify the cost.

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Thanks,
Gary.
 
I have always used the bicubic PhotoShop method
You have me slightly confused, surely bicubic is for re-sizing not sharpening?

I use Photoshop's Smart Sharpen which seems to do the best job. I have tried Focus Magic but I didn't think it was sufficiently better to justify the cost.

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Thanks,
Gary.
Bicubic Smoother plus Smart Sharpen produces a very refined effect. But with an .x3f-derived file there is virtually nothing that needs refining, compared with the product of other sensors.

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Ooooops Gary! Must have been drunk in charge of my computer at the time - yes MEANT to tripe resizing for the bicubic and USM (Unsharp Mask) for the Sharpening - hardly ever need to use due making sure the image in-camera is focused properly and lens capable of getting good definition too. Think the most I have used was about Amount 100% - Radius +3 - Threshold 0 in that order for the USM in PhotoShop.

(I had just replied to a message in another forum about resizing!) ;-)

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Zone8: Although I am a handsome geniearse, when I stand in front of a mirror, I vaguely recognise the ugly idjit standing on the other side!

LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 (and other models) using black ink only PLUS other useful tips:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/epson1400-B&W.htm
Cleaning DSLR Sensors, including Kodak DSLR Factory Cleaning method:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/KodakDCS-sensorcleaning.htm
Solving back/front focus problems on Sigma and most other DSLRs
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=35565277
 
The technique called local contrast enhancement is wonderful. It sharpens a tremendous amount before the dreaded halos and specks appear. The sharpening is more full bodied, too, if that makes sense.

Basically, you extract the luminance channel or the green channel, make a high-pass filter of it, and filter the original image through it. I use Picture Window Pro, but a search engine can find equivalent Photoshop recipes. It's quick and free once you learn it.
 
I agree with Charles, using this type of sharpening approach can be very useful for Foveon image. It tends to not exacerbate any aliasing artifacts and is very "natural" looking. That said, when I have used this approach I've usually applied it in LAB mode against the Luminance channel. This is using PS CS4, in Picture Window Pro the approach of the op would be appropriate.

LAB offers a powerful color space for adjustments of Foveon images if you have the time and patience to explore it. The book Photoshop LAB Color: The Canyon Conundrum (Dan Margulis) is the recognized text on this subject.
The technique called local contrast enhancement is wonderful. It sharpens a tremendous amount before the dreaded halos and specks appear. The sharpening is more full bodied, too, if that makes sense.

Basically, you extract the luminance channel or the green channel, make a high-pass filter of it, and filter the original image through it. I use Picture Window Pro, but a search engine can find equivalent Photoshop recipes. It's quick and free once you learn it.
 
Focus Magic, Focus Fixer (Fixer Labs), InFocus (Topaz Labs) all use a technique of local microcontrast enhancement called "deconvolution".

Deconvolution is an algorithmic technique of attempting to reverse the "convolution" of a signal, the convolution being the distortion of the signal by some known (or practically estimated) variable.

The deconvolution plugins for Photoshop are pretty unsophisticated instruments as they are attempting to estimate the convolution of an image by any number of variables (camera movement, lens imperfections, focus error, etc.). Therefore they can only roughly estimate (at best) the convolution of the signal in order to calculate the deconvolution values.

For an image that already has pretty good overall sharpness, deconvolution can be a useful form of sharpening (keeping in mind that sharpening is, essentially, edge contrast enhancement). It isn't free of artifacts, however, and must be applied conservatively. For example, it tends to introduce artifacts into out of focus areas of your image (it can take nice bokeh and render it not-as-nice with ease).

Personally, I don't think of the deconvolution filters as general purpose sharpening tools. But then, I'm not sure that there is such a thing. Sharpening, the more you read and learn about it, is a complex subject dependent on your desire output medium, overall resolution, artistic desire, image quality... I could go on. And sharpening Foveon images introduces its own little kinks into the worfklow as you cannot approach it the same way as you do images derived from Bayer interpolated images.

Lots and LOTS of discussion threads on this forum over the years with some great examples, I wholly encourage their exploration. I'll try to include a post later with some specific links.
 
I agree. very good post, and left much to think about...
 
...but image restoration. There is no reason to use it for images that do not suffer from blur of some kind. However, for blur (shake, OOF, diffraction, lens flaws) removal it is the tool to use.
For an image that already has pretty good overall sharpness, deconvolution can be a useful form of sharpening (keeping in mind that sharpening is, essentially, edge contrast enhancement).
Deconvolution is not sharpening in the same sense unsharp mask is; it is not edge contrast enhancement. Instead a deconvolution kernel is applied to the image to remove the blur. If the point spread function is well known, even major blur can be restored - indeed it image restoration rather than sharpening. In typical photography the PSF can only be estimated to reasonable degree, limiting the image restoration to degree. Astrophotographers have the advantage of having point light sources to help in the hunt of the proper PSF (which itself is not the same across the image as the lens in use also modifies the function).
It isn't free of artifacts, however, and must be applied conservatively.
With a very good PSF estimation one can apply loads of deconvolution and the results will be amazing. However, if the PSF is somewhat off, the results won't be great, so it's better to be safe than sorry. Wit a decent PSF and proper use there won't be artifacts to quack of.
For example, it tends to introduce artifacts into out of focus areas of your image (it can take nice bokeh and render it not-as-nice with ease).
Only if your PSF is really off, but then your sharp areas won't look as they should either. Also, if one really needs to restore a blurred image, one is also likely to use deconvolution selectively on parts of the image.
And sharpening Foveon images introduces its own little kinks into the worfklow as you cannot approach it the same way as you do images derived from Bayer interpolated images.
This is false as long as we're not operating on the actual raw-files or capture sharpening.

There are a couple of differences with Foveon and most color filter array equipped cameras. Most importantly the antialias filter. Cameras with it do need capture sharpening, those without don't need it, and should not be given any. For output sharpening there is no difference between Foveon, Bayer, scans etc. (other than handling of noise).

I recomment anyone interested in deconvolution to try out (free/donationware) Image Analyzer ( http://meesoft.logicnet.dk/ ). It's not perfect, but instead quite easy to get into this. For heavy use there is ImageJ and a couple of plugins one may want to look into, but they're a bit more complex to use (but much more powerful).

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Quack!
 

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