v1 autofocus - is it me?

DamienM

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I've had the v1 for a few weeks and a lot of photos of my 2 year old are out of focus - both indoors and outdoors. I keep reading how fast the v1's autofocus is but I am just not seeing it in real life scenarios. I've tried different settings without success. FYI, I am neither a novice nor a professional photographer. Do you have any settings advice or suggestions?
 
First, make sure its a focus issue and not a shutter speed issue.

Take a picture of a static subject using a tripod... that should tell you if the camera is focusing properly.

Check the EXIF data on your soft shots... what shutter speed are they taken at? Even with VR, a shutter speed below 1/60s will deliver motion blur. If my kid is any indication, they blur quickly!

-Jason

Author, "The Photographer's Guide" series of eBooks for Capture NX2 and Nik Plug-ins.
 
Would be helpful if you post a few sample pictures with EXIF info intact.

Regards,

TK.
 
Some potential issues:
  • the default auto-area focus point did not work for me, as it often focused on the wrong point. I almost always user center-point focus
  • the default AF-A setting wasn't working great for me either. I switch between AF-S for single shots and AF-C for continuous shooting when the subject is moving. AF-C will let you shoot before the focus is locked on so it should only be used for moving subjects
  • auto-ISO is terrible on this camera, and often chooses shutter speeds down to 1/15 which is OK for static subjects, but not kids. Indoors, with the slow kit lens, I'll manually select ISO 1600 (or 3200 if it's really dim) and shoot in A mode with the lens wide-open to keep shutter speeds at least at 1/30, and preferably over 1/60, depending on how much light you have available. Really, to reliably capture a fast-moving kid, you need 1/100 or even higher but in 5fps burst mode, I usually get 1 or 2 shots without motion blur even if my daughter is moving and I'm shooting between 1/30 and 1/60
  • turn VR from "Active" to "Normal" for a possible small benefit in sharpness
  • ensure your lens firmware is updated
 
I agree with identity, the auto-everything setting is pretty unusable which makes me wonder, if the target customer is moving up from a P&S wouldn't they likely be using auto-everything at least until they were comfortable with the fancy new camera?

it doesn't make sense...but what do i know ;-)

--
Life is uncertain, eat dessert first.
 
Did you update the firmware for the lenses?

There was a problem with out of focus issues addressed in the new firmware.

JK
 
This is the first negative comment about the AF that I've read. On the contrary, every review I've read has praised it. Hard to believe this would be a case of emperors new clothes.
 
There's a lot of good suggestions here, and as others point out, until we see some shots with EXIF intact, it'll be really hard to diagnose what's going on.

-Jason

Author, "The Photographer's Guide" series of eBooks for Capture NX2 and Nik Plug-ins.
 
I'd just like to point out that after switching out of the auto-everything focus mode and ensuring that my shutter speed is high enough, I've gotten more in-focus action shots with my V1 than any camera I've ever had. It really is a great system but I do think the default settings are not ideal in some circumstances.
 
Thanks for all the responses! I looked at the images taken thus far and it seems as though the v1 chooses slower shutter speeds more often than not in auto-mode. Some of the out-of-focus images were in fact at speeds too slow to capture a moving person. I've attached a couple which should have been in-focus (taken in auto-mode for testing purposes) with appropriate shutter speeds.

I have not updated the firmware so that may help.

A big reason I chose this camera was so that my wife - who's moving up from a P&S - could also capture family pics in auto-mode without having to be knowledgeable about exposure settings. A lot of her shots have not been in-focus. Since there is no 'sports' setting for her, I'm not sure how the camera knows when to choose a faster S speed.

FYI, I've added a few other non-pp v1 images in my gallery: http://bit.ly/rXi2xR











 
In the first photo, it appears to be in-focus but the shutter speed is 1/80 and it looks like there's a little motion blur in your son's face.

In the second photo, which I'm guessing may be part of a continuous sequence, the focus point seems to still be behind your son as he moves down the stairs. If you shoot a continuous sequence with the subject moving towards or away from the camera, you have to be in AF-C mode to maintain focus. AF-A should do this automatically but I haven't found it to be reliable. Also, the camera may just have been choosing the wrong focus point if you still have it in auto-area focus mode.

In the last photo, it's clearly focusing on the background. The default settings should have handled this case, as it will usually try to focus on the nearest foreground object. If you haven't tried it yet, switch to single (center) point AF so you know exactly where the focus point is. It means you have to be a little more accurate in framing your shot to ensure the subject is somewhere in the center of the frame, or focus and recompose.

I was initially disappointed with the number of photos I got that had motion blur or focus issues, and it really does seem to me that full-auto settings are not adequate for many situations. It's unfortunate, but I think you have to know at least a little about the various shooting modes to get the most out of the camera.

90% of the time I'm on center-point focus, single-shot AF (AF-S), and continous shooting mode. Center-point focus ensures I always know where the focus point is. AF-S ensures that the subject focus is always locked before it lets me take a shot. If the subject is moving towards/away from the camera at any significant rate of speed, then AF-C is needed, but AF-S works well in all other cases. I leave it in continuous shooting mode even though I generally only take 1 shot (which requires a very quick shutter press and release!). When I do want to take a burst sequence, it simply takes too long to dig in to the menu to change to continuous shooting mode, so I leave the setting enabled at the risk of taking 2 or 3 shots accidentally, which may waste some storage space but also gives you 2 or 3 shots to choose from.

To ensure high shutter speeds, you can shoot in S mode but that runs the risk of underexposing if you select a shutter speed that is too high for the available light. I generally shoot in A mode with the aperature as small as possible, and leave auto-ISO enabled in good light. Indoors, or in dim lighting outdoors, I'll manually set ISO to 1600 to ensure a reasonable shutter speed, but there's no guarantees - if the light level drops too low, a well-exposed shot is going to require a slower shutter speed and there's not much that can be done other than using a flash or waiting for one of Nikon's F/1.2 or F/1.4 lenses, which I'm very much looking forward to.
 
Your first step needs to be upgrading the lens firmware. The V1 or J1 will easily handle the situations shown in your sample photos. You just need to first eliminate the possibility of the firmware causing issues, then make sure you have the appropriate settings (using the advice given in this and other posts), and finally if you're still having problems make sure you are using proper technique.
 
On the last two images, the focus is clearly on the background. What focus area setting are you using? If you are using the auto area setting, I'd change it to single point in the center. Also if the subjects are moving you probably need to set it to continuous focusing (AF-C) instead of single shot (AF-S).
 
On the last two images, the focus is clearly on the background. What focus area setting are you using? If you are using the auto area setting, I'd change it to single point in the center. Also if the subjects are moving you probably need to set it to continuous focusing (AF-C) instead of single shot (AF-S).
Did nobody read my super-long post? :D

I find AF-C to be less reliable than AF-S, and if the subject is moving across the image (distance from camera to subject isn't changing much) then I'd still stick with AF-S. Having said that, maybe I just need to learn to use AF-C more effectively.
 
On the last two images, the focus is clearly on the background. What focus area setting are you using? If you are using the auto area setting, I'd change it to single point in the center. Also if the subjects are moving you probably need to set it to continuous focusing (AF-C) instead of single shot (AF-S).
Did nobody read my super-long post? :D

I find AF-C to be less reliable than AF-S, and if the subject is moving across the image (distance from camera to subject isn't changing much) then I'd still stick with AF-S. Having said that, maybe I just need to learn to use AF-C more effectively.
I agree if the subject isn't changing distance. However, in photo 2 I think that is clearly not the case. The only thing for that photo is AF-C or having the subject stop moving.
 
On the last two images, the focus is clearly on the background. What focus area setting are you using? If you are using the auto area setting, I'd change it to single point in the center. Also if the subjects are moving you probably need to set it to continuous focusing (AF-C) instead of single shot (AF-S).
Did nobody read my super-long post? :D

I find AF-C to be less reliable than AF-S, and if the subject is moving across the image (distance from camera to subject isn't changing much) then I'd still stick with AF-S. Having said that, maybe I just need to learn to use AF-C more effectively.
I agree if the subject isn't changing distance. However, in photo 2 I think that is clearly not the case. The only thing for that photo is AF-C or having the subject stop moving.
Yup, agreed. Photo 2 would require AF-C. Luckily on the V1, focus mode is quick to change with the dedicated button.
 
+1 on Firmware. The current firmware for the 10-30 lens is version 1.02. A and B firmware should be 1.10 to support the FT-1 module.

A 1.10
B 1.10
L 1.02

Rick
 
This sort of jives with Thom Hogan's review/findings
I'd just like to point out that after switching out of the auto-everything focus mode and ensuring that my shutter speed is high enough, I've gotten more in-focus action shots with my V1 than any camera I've ever had. It really is a great system but I do think the default settings are not ideal in some circumstances.
--
terry
http://www.terrybanet.com
 
--After almost a month with this camera, I have to agree with everything you've said. Having had digital experience for over 10 yrs now, I started out with the V1 on all auto settings...something I never do with my D90. Sure enough, little by little , I have gone back to full control with this cam. I have pretty much settled on the same settings as you did.

One other thing, Due to the greater dof with the smaller sensor/lens combo, I tend to stick with lower f/stops than I would with the D90.

WSSA Member#40 ( Head Squirrel)
http://www.pbase.com/thegaber
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thegaber/

 
--After almost a month with this camera, I have to agree with everything you've said. Having had digital experience for over 10 yrs now, I started out with the V1 on all auto settings...something I never do with my D90. Sure enough, little by little , I have gone back to full control with this cam. I have pretty much settled on the same settings as you did.
Ditto

at the beginning I had similar focusing issues, but as I regained control of most functions the results are inherent

This is a great camera with fantastic results in AUTO for those P&S érs who want to move up and for the more experienced who know how to control settings manually and are more demanding

--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drdanno/
 

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