Ready to purchase DSLR

Jellybean1

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I am finally ready to purchase a DSLR. I am looking to spend between $800 - $1200. I have my eye on the Canon T3i or the Nikon 5100. Since it is holiday season there are bundle offers. I am looking for input on these cameras and any suggestion on what to look for in bundles.
 
If you mean by "bundle" those deals where you get the camera, lens, tripod, filters, bag, etc. then you should avoid them. The accessories (tripod, filters, bag) you get with those are worthless, IMO.

As for the cameras you mentioned, both are good entry level cameras.
I am finally ready to purchase a DSLR. I am looking to spend between $800 - $1200. I have my eye on the Canon T3i or the Nikon 5100. Since it is holiday season there are bundle offers. I am looking for input on these cameras and any suggestion on what to look for in bundles.
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Bruce
 
As Bruce said, avoid bundles which include assorted accessories. But the camera manufacturers often offer special deals on lenses bought with the camera; those are usually worthwhile.

The two cameras you mention are fine; pick the prettier one, or the cheaper one, or the closer one. That is, neither is noticeably better than the other.
 
If you have any feel for the kind of shots you will be taking, for example - landscape, sports, macro - then look at the lens and prices of those lenses. The two most popular brands, the most supported brands by third party companies is Canon and Nikon. Both are excellent, but remember more than the camera, you are buying into the lens system.

I use Canon, since it was dominant in the field in the late 80's and I have stayed with Canon because of the lenses I collected to use with my then SLR film camera.

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An excellent lens lasts a lifetime, an excellent DSLR, not so long.
 
Jellybean1, I suggest you purchase the following:

Panasonic G3 + 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens = $614(!) on Amazon

Olympus 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 lens: $202.94 on Amazon, $185.49 on eBay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Olympus-M-ZUIKO-DIGITAL-ED-40-150mm-f4-0-5-6-Camera-Lens-261505-Black-/290631163447?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item43aaf79e37 )

Olympus M. Zuiko 45mm f/1.8 lens: $345 on eBay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympus-M-Zuiko-Digital-ED-45mm-f-1-8-Lens-GF3-E-PL3-E-P3-L540-/300601428913?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item45fd3dcbb1 )

Total of $1144.49 and you get a great camera that is much more portable than a DSLR, a camera you can take anywhere around your neck because of how much smaller it is than a DSLR. You also get more/better/smaller lenses than with a DSLR. This is a "Micro four thirds" camera and it is the new wave of technology that is sweeping the camera industry and rendering DSLRs obsolete for everyday use. It is very close to as small as a compact and very close to as good of image quality as a DSLR (and has interchangeable lenses unlike compacts).

The Panasonic G3 is arguably the best micro 4/3 camera to date, and certainly the best value considering the price. It has a viewfinder which is important for a number of reasons, one of which is it lets you stabilize the camera and thus shoot at slower shutter speeds in low light. I cannot stress enough how much you will like the fact that it is much smaller and lighter than a DSLR and thus you can much more easily take it with you wherever you go.
 
I am finally ready to purchase a DSLR. I am looking to spend between $800 - $1200. I have my eye on the Canon T3i or the Nikon 5100. Since it is holiday season there are bundle offers. I am looking for input on these cameras and any suggestion on what to look for in bundles.
Either of these is a great choice, I would agree with the poster who said to avoid a bundle, unless that bundle is another lens (e.g. the 55-250mm canon lens). Most of the bundled stuff is pretty low quality IMO.

I would not get a Micro 4/3 instead, I have one (e-pl2, without viewfinder admittedly) and still think that you learn much more with a regular D-SLR (DOF etc, manual focus througha real viewfinder). I have a canon 500D which is 2 generations before the T3i (600D here) and which would also be fine, main difference being the articulated screen and the upgraded sensor.

Kevin
 
I think a common mistake many people make is trying to get lots of accessories with their cameras on day 1. Marketing folks take advantage of this and bundle a large amount of inferior accessories and sell them in an all-in-one package. Sure, you can spend $1000 and get a bag, a few filters, a kit lens, an extra off-brand battery, a cheap tripod, and a camera body. Or for a $1000, you can buy a camera body, kit lens, and a nicer bag, and a nicer tripod.

Here's the thing: I don't think filters are necessary on day 1. I don't think a tripod is necessary on day 1.

Most importantly, if this will be your first dSLR, then buy a lens and a camera body and practice taking photos. As you learn, you'll also learn what 'gear' you need to supplement your hobby.

Bundles sound nice, but they don't necessarily add value to your purchase - IMHO.
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I'm here to learn :)
 
I am finally ready to purchase a DSLR. I am looking to spend between $800 - $1200. I have my eye on the Canon T3i or the Nikon 5100. Since it is holiday season there are bundle offers. I am looking for input on these cameras and any suggestion on what to look for in bundles.
Either of these is a great choice, I would agree with the poster who said to avoid a bundle, unless that bundle is another lens (e.g. the 55-250mm canon lens). Most of the bundled stuff is pretty low quality IMO.

I would not get a Micro 4/3 instead, I have one (e-pl2, without viewfinder admittedly) and still think that you learn much more with a regular D-SLR (DOF etc, manual focus througha real viewfinder). I have a canon 500D which is 2 generations before the T3i (600D here) and which would also be fine, main difference being the articulated screen and the upgraded sensor.

Kevin
You can still control depth of field with Micro 4/3. Not as much at equivalent focal lengths as with an APS-C sized sensor, but with certainly more than enough with the two additional lenses I suggested beyond the kit lens - the telephoto zoom and the fast f/1.8 prime. Manual focusing can be done through any viewfinder (or the LCD), not just a "real" one, and besides, it has very limited use and is not really critical to learning photography, unless you insist on using manual focus lenses.
 
Just fyi, I would not get m43rds personally. The size difference isn't enough to matter for me, it's still not fitting in my jeans pocket so I'll be carrying it around my neck.

The weight difference is often way overhyped as well. Especially since the g3 is one of the heavier m43rds cameras.

And you do lose some image quality because m43rds uses a smaller sensor.

If size and weight are primary concerns, the t3i is fine, though I would personally be more tempted by the t2i which costs less and for the most part just doesn't have the articulating screen - something that could be very useful but when I tried it I found that Canon's really slow autofocus with the screen made it a little useless. (Both cameras use the same sensor.)

Compared to the t3i, the 60d is heavier. And they all use the same sensor. But the 60d, in my opinion, is the best price/performance point if you're looking for a midrange dslr. I really liked it's much faster burst rate (almost 6fps vs the 3fps on the t3i/t2i), much larger raw buffer (16 frame vs 6 frames), bigger grip, better viewfinder...and there were probably some other things. It's main drawback is that it costs a little more and it is a little heavier than the other models.
 
Regarding the myth of 'brand matters':

Looking at brands is actually meaningless for perhaps %95 of buyers. The same is true regarding 'looking at systems'.

Nikon, Canon, Sony, Pentax and even Olympus and Panasonic have enough in their systems (together with third party lenses, flashes, etc.) to fulfill the needs of %95 (or even more) of buyers.
 
Panasonic G3 weighs 11.84 oz
Panasonic 14-42mm kit lens weight 5.82 oz
Total = 17.66 oz (1.1 pounds)

Canon T2i weighs 18.7 oz
Canon 18-55mm IS II weighs 7.1 oz
Total = 25.8 oz (1.6 pounds)

The T3i body weighs 58% more tan the G3 body
The T3i kit weighs 46% more than the G3 kit

And if you compare other lenses, the weight difference grows larger. For instance the Canon 55-250mm IS II is 13.8 oz, the Olympus 40-150mm is just 6.7 oz, less than half the weight. It's of course much shorter too.

As far as size goes, no it's not pocketable but it's still much less conspicuous and weighty to have hanging around your neck than the big DSLRs. There is no way to calculate the exact volume, but based on their stated dimensions, if the two cameras were perfect rectangular prisms, the G3 would be only 47% the size of the T2i.

So those are the exact size and weight numbers in order to make a fair comparison.
Just fyi, I would not get m43rds personally. The size difference isn't enough to matter for me, it's still not fitting in my jeans pocket so I'll be carrying it around my neck.

The weight difference is often way overhyped as well. Especially since the g3 is one of the heavier m43rds cameras.

And you do lose some image quality because m43rds uses a smaller sensor.

If size and weight are primary concerns, the t3i is fine, though I would personally be more tempted by the t2i which costs less and for the most part just doesn't have the articulating screen - something that could be very useful but when I tried it I found that Canon's really slow autofocus with the screen made it a little useless. (Both cameras use the same sensor.)

Compared to the t3i, the 60d is heavier. And they all use the same sensor. But the 60d, in my opinion, is the best price/performance point if you're looking for a midrange dslr. I really liked it's much faster burst rate (almost 6fps vs the 3fps on the t3i/t2i), much larger raw buffer (16 frame vs 6 frames), bigger grip, better viewfinder...and there were probably some other things. It's main drawback is that it costs a little more and it is a little heavier than the other models.
 
"rendering DSLRs obsolete for everyday use"

What data do you base this claim on?

--
Bruce
 
The advice to avoid buying a bundle with things like a tripod, filters, case, etc. is good. Ignore what people are saying when it appears they're just fans of a particular camera brand or system and are trying to proselytize.

If you can, try each camera you're interested in. The way it fits in your hand (not someone else's) is important. If possible see how the controls of each operate. Different brands have different philosophies in how they set their controls and some will appeal more to you than others.

All of these cameras will take good pictures. The point is to try to find the one that will fit you like a glove so you don't get distracted by the way it operates.
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--Bob
 
Maybe obsolete was not the correct word as they are obviously still in use. I just meant that for the type of everyday shooting that the vast majority of photographers do, Micro 4/3 has becoming a better choice than an entry level DSLR. The G3 was a big step forward in this progression because it improved on the previous generation sensor's IQ, it included the viewfinder while still being pretty small and light, and it is pretty affordable at just over $600 for a kit.
 
If compactness is important go for micro four thirds. If image quality is a huge priority go full frame. The entry level dslr cameras are bulky but they don't deliver full frame quality. So my advice would be to forget the so called entry level dslr cameras. You either carry the weight and pay the cash for sull fram or you save the money and get the portability that comes with micro four thirds.
 
http://www.popphoto.com/gear/2011/09/lab-test-sony-a77-new-king-aps-c-dslrs
I am finally ready to purchase a DSLR. I am looking to spend between $800 - $1200. I have my eye on the Canon T3i or the Nikon 5100. Since it is holiday season there are bundle offers. I am looking for input on these cameras and any suggestion on what to look for in bundles.
here is a part of what pop photo says about the a77:

Video shooters should be pleased with the footage from the A77, which can shoot at up to 60-fps at 1920x1080p, the new limit of the AVCHD format. As with Sony's other transmissive mirror cameras, the A77 has fast phase-detection AF even as you record video, putting it ahead of any other video-capable DSLR. ----------------

so if you want video capability even the cheaper sonys have this.

the comments about manual focusing are interesting. manual focusing with cheap dim mirror finders on the canikon models mentioned [or any format or brand with mirror finder] just plain sucks. it isn't helped by not having any focusing aid on the focus screen. it's a universal problem with these finders as far as i know.

sony also has fast phase detect af in liveview too. another plus is you don't have to buy a kit with the slooow lenses as minolta af lenses are compatible with sony. you can pick up faster used lenses for less money.

everything has a downside and some don't like sony electronic viewfinder. i would prefer it over a dim tunnel mirror finder. some ***** about 1/3-1/2 stop light loss on the slt models.

i sold my dslr a while back and if i buy another i will be checking used sony slt models.

however if ran onto a steal on a used 5100 or t3i i'd probably jump on it.
 
DSLRs still beat all mirrorless systems on focus speed and accuracy, and there is still a larger selection of fast glass available, regardless of brand. They will become niche systems when reliable high performance PDAF is available directly on the sensor and good quality fast glass is available at good prices for mirrorless systems.

Until then it makes a lot of sense to buy a DSLR. Focus speed and accuracy is important in many non-specialized situations and remains the main advantage of a DSLR, along with superior ergonomics.

Jesper
 
They are not faster at focusing in general, only at phase detect autofocus. This is only useful for tracking subjects in continuous, fast motion, where the point of focus is constantly changing, such as when photographing sports. That being said you could still photograph sports, you would just be more limited, for instance you might have trouble capturing a player in a dead sprint with perfect focus.

For anything else, contrast detect is actually better than phase detect because it's more accurate, and on many mirrorless systems it's extremely fast, like the e-p3. I don't remember how the G3 focuses off-hand but I'm pretty sure all of the micro four thirds cameras take one second to autofocus in good light.
 

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