Eye-Fi up and running on my D3

jamesRwatson

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Hey there,

I've documented how to reconfigure the B&H SD/CF Type II adapter into a Type I format.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/816112-REG/Digieffects_SDXCF_Extreme_SD_HC_XC_to_CF.html

http://vimeo.com/30075882

I'm using it with a Type II chassis in my D3.

We've found some users mentioning that the reconfigured adapter is not being picked up by some cameras (some Nikons). D3S users will have to configure it into Type I chassis as documented in this video describing how to mount it into a Type I chassis.

http://vimeo.com/30373749

Let me know if you find success and if so what camera and card chassis you've used.

Tested and working:
Nikon D3 Eye-Fi with the Type II chassis
Nikon D3 Eye-Fi with the Type I chassis

--
James R. Watson
Artist & Photographer
 
How reliable has it been for you? Range?
--
Scott
 
With the metal plates removed (as illustrated), in a D3 and using direct mode, the max reliable range I found is 10 feet. You may get lucky to 15 feet.

You also have to turn off the power saving features (turn up the metering and display playback) in order to have power supplied to the CF for transmission.

If you don't use direct mode, and can get away with a WAP or MiFi type device you should increase your range.
--
James R. Watson
Artist & Photographer
 
Thanks for posting. I've the WT-4, but can't resist having a play for a quick and dirty solution.

Built one and tried it in a D200 and an IR converted D70 before testing it on paying cameras :-) I get an unusual reading on the shots remaining on the D70 - "2.2" with a small "k" above it. Any ideas? Oh, I haven't managed to get it running on either of those cameras.

Place regular CF cards in and they are fine. Drop the Eye-Fi card back into the D-Lux4 and it transmits the shots taken on the 70. Strange. It must be recording the shot as it sen them once it gets back into contact with the iPad.

mosman
 
The 2.2K refers to the quantity of photos it can take (it has space for over 2200+)

The cameras must be UDMA compatible, google it to see if they are able to handle the cards.

As for the Leica, it sounds like the power is being sent to the Eye-Fi properly now and it can transmit what it received on the other cameras. Mine did a similar thing before I was properly configured (when inserted into a laptop).

Make sure your power settings (metering and screen preview) on the cameras are turned up to the max so the power is being sent to the CF cards as long as possible. You can try chimping as well.
--
James R. Watson
Artist & Photographer
 
The 2.2K refers to the quantity of photos it can take (it has space for over 2200+)
Guess I've not seen that in a while :-) The settings I use with 16 and 8Gb cards on the D3/D3X will never get me into those heady numbers. Thanks for pointing that out.
The cameras must be UDMA compatible, google it to see if they are able to handle the cards.
I'll take a look and see. Gut feel is they are not given their age.
As for the Leica, it sounds like the power is being sent to the Eye-Fi properly now and it can transmit what it received on the other cameras. Mine did a similar thing before I was properly configured (when inserted into a laptop).
Leica has always been fine, as has all other native SD card cameras we have laying around - really useful with the Canon D10 as you don't have to worry about opening the card slot while it's wet.
Make sure your power settings (metering and screen preview) on the cameras are turned up to the max so the power is being sent to the CF cards as long as possible.
I'll take a look.

You can try chimping as well.

Isn't that something you do at the zoo? ;-)

Once again, thanks for sharing.

mosman
 
@ JRW, thk you for this informative post, as I now have the same setup working with my D3. The following are a few of my findings!

1) The transfer rate between Large Fine jpeg is not that much different than transferring Small Fine jpeg.

2) It (...the Eye-Fi card) works with ConnectiFy used as a virtual hotstop! Imagine that.

3) The Eye-Fi software is quite smart, for instance, if the entire image doesn't transfer,...it will stop the transfer and retry.

Here are some updates I'd like to see:

1) The capability of the Eye-Fi card to control the camera's meter vs one having to set an extended meter Time-out setting - I'm at 10 minutes with my D3 and they recommended the longest meter time-out setting.

2) Allow the "Camera's" 'write to card indicator' to "Blink" when it's transmitting images.

3) Allow the user to "Select" which WiFi setup to be active without having to 'Delete' the WiFi profile.

4) Enable a "Signal Strength Meter" with the Blinky Eye-Fi WiFi icon or with the "Thumbnail viewer.

5) Enbale the Eye-Fi on-card software to add some sort of icon to show which images have been transferred!

6) Work out a deal with Nikon and have this technology embedded in-camera!

Note, I have the Eye-Fi Pro X2 and the same SD to CF Card Reader as you use.

Thanks again and TC!

Edit! Note that the Eye-Fi Card/SD to CF Adapter,...which is mounted into a donor Type I CF card housing will only fit in Slot I of the D3,...it will not fully "seat' when placed in Slot II. At least that's my finding.

--
JMD
...D3s/WT-4 - D3/Eye-Fi'ed
......ITP Pro 2.0
.........Nikon forever~
 
Interesting,
Coincidence or is someone “actually” listening at Nikon ? :)

The D800 was a VERY smart move on Nikons part in so many ways.
  • Except for that GRIP Price ...
HG
6) Work out a deal with Nikon and have this technology embedded in-camera!

Note, I have the Eye-Fi Pro X2 and the same SD to CF Card Reader as you use.
--
http://tourist-of-light.blogspot.com/

Please feel free to criticize, make suggestions, and edit any of my photos & re-post, to help show me 'the way'. * I am trying to Elevate the Level of my 'Snap Shots' :)
 

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