HS20 first impressions and photos. (I like it).

[Fatkinson]

I may cover things that have been said already but I've been away for a few weeks.

Just thought I'd put up a few pictures with how I'd taken them and whether people had suggestions for settings etc on how they could be improved.

https://picasaweb.google.com/103743690849401184407/NorthIsland?authkey=Gv1sRgCPSXt7eO5vqCxgE#

There's some exif data there and I've put the mode used in the caption.

I've uploaded most of these to my gallery as well if you want a closer look but I seem to have hit my upload limit (although I apparently have a few Mbs to spare).

I wanted a versatile camera to replace a Nikon Coolpix L4 point and shoot. This had no manual control apart from scene modes and exposure compensation. I wanted to be able to progress and learn more but also need a camera that my partner can just pick up and use without fiddling about too much.

Finally got my HS20 when my parents brought it over from the UK two weeks ago. Took some time off work to show them a few places in New Zealand (just the North Island) so had a great opportunity to have a play.

I'm really glad it uses AAs. Already had a charger so just bought two sets of Sanyo Eneloops. I only changed them twice or maybe three times during the holiday and took about 1200 photos so can't complain.

At the start I was taking lots of photos indoors in the warmth and messing with settings, flash and video and have not yet had an overheating warning and so haven't bothered updating the firmware.

Build quality is ok. The zoom is a little stiff at first but quickly smoothes out. The battery compartment door feels pretty cheap but I doubt it will break.

I left the lens hood on most of the time, apart from when using the flash as it leaves a dark patch. Mine also shipped with a Hama UV filter which I put on mostly to protect the lens and I'm really not sure when I should be using it and when I shouldn't...

I think the camera is fairly easy to use. I especially like the menus and being able to quickly press each button down the left hand side to check I've left all the settings how I need them for the next picture. I'm happy with the automatic and EXR modes and my girlfriend is enjoying taking pictures. I didn't have a lot of time to take most of these shots but I found the settings I wanted (not necessarily the optimum ones) quickly when I needed to.

I did have some trouble with overexposure at times, especially on the ones with the wading bird on the stick (quite the ornithologist). I guess you'd expect this with the dark surroundings but had to compensate to stop the bird's white head burning my eyes.

I changed the film simulation mode from Provia (standard) to Velvia after the first few days as I like vivid colours. I was happier with the results although the green grass does jump out at you a bit.

The zoom range the camera offers is great. I've never had anything with a wider angle on it so it's nice not falling backwards over things trying to fit everything in the shot. The long end opens up new possibilities to me and I've had fun with it. The trouble comes when you are trying to track a moving subject with it as the LCD/EVF freezes as it focuses so for every surfer I had five or six empty waves. I also took some long exposure night shots and am keen to try some astrophotography. I think these will come out pretty well with some practice. It is difficult trying to focus on a star using the manual focus ring though. It magnifies the centre of the image but it's difficult to see and you can't focus on infinity. I did also suffer with lens flare in bright light.

The other features are enjoyable to use. I much prefer the sweep panorama to stitching single photos together, although on this night one the moon has a ghost next to it. The pro-focus mode works pretty well, especially for flowers and close up objects. It can't always be used though.

Overall the camera is quick enough and has been fully reliable so far.

I can't make too many comments on video as have hardly used it. The slow motion is quite fun but the resolution is fairly poor once you get it on your monitor. Normal speed does have some focus issues as have been well discussed. To be honest I'd probably get just as good a result on my iPod Nano...

All in all, the camera isn't perfect but I think I get better pictures every time I pick it up. I can take shots I've never been able to take before and I'm sure I'll get more creative as I learn. It's a lot of fun to use and there's plenty still to learn and it makes me want to go outside and take photos. I can't ask for much more than that.

 

[Ronald]

Your bellow statement pretty much sums up this camera.
btw
Make sure you read the PDF manual thats on disk

All in all, the camera isn't perfect but I think I get better pictures every time I pick it up. I can take shots I've never been able to take before and I'm sure I'll get more creative as I learn. It's a lot of fun to use and there's plenty still to learn and it makes me want to go outside and take photos. I can't ask for much more than that.

--
Ronald Nikon cp4500, tc-e2, canon tc-dc58n, Fuji S9000

 

[Fatkinson]

Yeah thanks,

I read it online before I got the camera and it definitely made a big difference to know a few of the features and my way around the buttons prior to picking it up. Will probably re-read it now I'm more familiar with it to see what I missed the first time round. Haven't tried adjusting the white balance settings yet, am intrigued by the three different types of fluorescent light to choose from...

 

[allan teo]

Hi
Your sample photo on that seabird has BLOWN highlights on the white neck..

1. Take your photos in RAW mode and use Aperature priority
2. RAW mode with EXR Dynamic range priority may not work if the bird is MOVING

 

[allan teo]

Hi
Your sample photo on that seabird has BLOWN highlights on the white neck..

1. Take your photos in RAW mode and use Aperature priority. Take a few different shots with different exposures and process them in the RAW converter.

2. RAW mode with EXR Dynamic range priority may not work if the bird is MOVING. If the bird turns its head around during the EXR DR process, the photo will be blurred.. Since in EXR mode you cannot control the shutter speed except boost the ISO = which is not good = increased noise.

Most sunning birds will normally keep very still except for the throat of the neck which can be seen moving if you get too close.

For bird photos..

Try not to take photos in such HARSH sunlight. Try to take photographs only during the hours of 8.00 AM to 10.00 AM and 4.00 PM to 6.00 PM when the sunlight is at an angle and has that GOLDEN color.. they call it the GOLDEN hour.

Also spend a day observing the bird of your interest from a distance and record the time that it starts to do something interesting.. If you note that 8.00 AM the bird does something interesting , go there way before the bird arrives and get as close as possible to a good hiding place. Wear your camo and wait.

For nice photos ,try not to use the full focal length of the HS 20 to take the photo
.. Hide in a place that allows you to use say 200 or 300 MM of the focal length.

Then you know you can use the rest of the range to recompose the photo.

To get a good photo of the bird that is interesting, you may need to take over 100-200 photos and choose the best one.. many hours of waiting for the right moment.

Also go and buy/make a remote shutter cable release for the HS20 to minimize shake. Use a tripod or a gorrila pod or a beanbang to stabilize the camera. Make a hood for the lcd screen if you want consistent lcd brightness.

turn off autofocus check to increase AF speed -
http://akiwiretrospective.blogspot.com/2011/05/hs20-exr-review-pt2-settings.html

Allan

 

[Fatkinson]

Thanks for that. I haven't tried shooting in raw yet and am only doing very minor PP in Picassa at the moment. Haven't installed the Fuji software yet or invested in Photoshop or similar. I think that bird was using the pro-focus mode but will check when I get home.

I agree with the blown highlights and I did find that this happened in several situations / subjects, especially shots with clouds. Dynamic range EXR didn't seem to help but that's something to work on.

You said about Dynamic Range EXR and movement. Are the low-light and highlight images not taken simultaneously? Also, in aperture priority mode or manual etc, when I have the image size set at M, what is the sensor doing? Are the pixels getting merged similar to when it's in the advertised high-iso, low-noise EXR mode? Should I be avoiding using the EXR modes altogether? The way they describe the dynamic range EXR mode sounds like a good idea! You can't make the camera do that in manual modes can you?

I probably haven't got the patience to get great birding shots. If you look at the link in the post to my Picassa album, it's mostly whatever I see whilst travelling around and I'm hoping to get the best results I can in short shooting sessions. Unfortunately that will mean shooting in sub-optimal lighting if I come across the subject at the wrong time so I'm keen to learn to compensate for that as best I can. Likewise with distance and focal length. The early morning / late evening, short focal length shots do come out the best though.

https://picasaweb.google.com/...07/NorthIsland?authkey=Gv1sRgCPSXt7eO5vqCxgE#

 

[allan teo]

Hi

Since memory is so cheap now, go for FINE mode. This means that the camera is doing the least compression.. However this also means that you lost the RAW files.

If you wish to experiment after you get better, set RAW+JPG mode as a permanent option.

This camera does have very slow focus compared to a Nikon P500 I was testing.
I hope fuji fixes this problem. even with Focus check off, it was very slow.

Show the HISTO GRAM on your camera information. When the graph is evenly distributed, take the shot. You can set your ISO to 400 and use P mode to experiiment making changes.

If you want to do handheld shots, ensure your shutter speed is high enough to compensate for your handshake, even with the internal anti-shake some people are just too shaky.

Allan

 

[Lee Altman]

Thanks for the review.

I'm learning mine as we speak (type).
The point about the AA batteries IS the best seller item for me.
I have had Sony's and the barrety always dies from heat and at time lack of use.
With AA's you can always stop in at any store and pick some up (Worldwide).

Thanks again,

Lee

 

[Fatkinson]

No worries, thanks for reading it.

Here's the link again, I broke it before by messing about with the folders on my computer when the album was synced with Picasa.

https://picasaweb.google.com/103743690849401184407/NorthIsland02?authkey=Gv1sRgCNXk3OCix_-UeQ#

The AA batteries are good, my last P&S used them (only two though...) and though they got changed quite a lot, the camera lasted me about 5 years.

Now I just need to find an AA battery case. Seen a few from GreenBatteries.com in the States. One leather wallet type, another a pouch with belt loop and memory card slot. Hopefully will find one closer to New Zealand where the postage doesn't cost me more than the product. If anyone knows a nice one, do tell.

 

[John Miles]

The trouble comes when you are trying to track a moving subject with it as the LCD/EVF freezes as it focuses so for every surfer I had five or six empty waves.

A tip I share form time to time. Some get it to work; others not.

Tracking a long lens can be improved by using the EVF and opening and using your left eye also. The composite image made from the view from both eyes is an overview from your left eye with the zoomed frame from your right eye superimposed.

So to targeting. Holding the camera to your eye the task is to keep BOTH your face AND the camera on target. The face part is needed to align both left and right eye. So When tracking a moving target simply keep the centre of the frame from your right eye on the target location in your left eye. Just remember to keep your face aimed at target also. You might find centre of frame is not quite right, that maybe a little right or left of centre is more appropriate. But you'll get the hang of it.

The EVF can freeze all it likes. With practiced left eye targeting, when the EVF comes back from a blackout you'll have the best chance of still being on target.

Hope it helps.

--


The FZ50: DSLR handling of a bright Leica 35-420mm lens that's this good: http://www.flickr.com/groups/panasonicfz50/pool/ (slideshow always good). And now add the LX2: http://www.flickr.com/groups/lx2/pool/
[Tomorrows camera is better and smaller than todays]