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Looks like according to pro reviews, D7000 has soft mushy non sharp pictures

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digitalman4242 said:
I dont mean to sound negative. But this is insane. So basicly if im holding the camera in my hand it's probably not going to focus well. I have to have it stationary on a tripod. Thats nuts. So when im walking around on vacation, or at a party, or taking pics of my kids playing I need to put it on a tripod. That's not realistic. What would be a great camera that doesnt cost a fortune that takes great pics without having to use a tripod. D90/t2i?
Click to expand...
The D90 is a fine camera and very user friendly.

The D7000 is also a fine machine and can certainly be used hand held, but... the new machine wants an operator who is paying attention to being a photographer. Simple P&S tactics are never going to yield consistent results with the 16 MP D7K or any other equivalent machine for that matter.

It doesn't take a rocket scientist to develop the basic skills necessary to making consistently sharp well exposed images. It does take a bit of effort up front on the part of the user.

Learn the basics of exposure. Good exposure makes good contrast, good contrast raises perceived sharpness.

Support the camera/lens well and practice this tactic. The weight is supported by the left hand, the right is a light touch and free to make adjustments and caress the shutter release. Firm contact between head and eyepiece rubber/cup. Steady respiration, elbows tucked in but not forced. One foot forward of the other, upper body weight settles comfortably to the rearward hip.

And that shutter.... oh those bloody shutters :) We always want to give them a stab in the heat of the action to catch the moment. Won't work with the D7000. Shutter release must be as smooth as possible and this is easy to achieve.

While you're sitting around the house doing nothing important, take up the camera and practice. Get to know the feel of the release stages. Practice with your eyes closed to bring that muscle memory into your inner brain. A nice shutter release needs to become second nature.

I'm a 35 year Nikon veteran who has owned most of the cool pro bodies. The D7000 kicked my butt for the first while because I had become sloppy in my shooting technique. I had to re-focus (intended) on the basics. I had to learn the different and lighter feeling shutter. Didn't take all that long and I'm now running around with the D7K and 300mm lenses making nice pictures hand held.

I'm an old fart and much less steady than in years past - if I can do it you sure as hell can :)

--
Holmes
 
DonWeston2009 said:
I guess really "good" technique varies from person to person as does what they will go through to achieve final results. I will be trying to fine tune my focus on my D7000 with my most used 28-300VR lens and see how it goes. IF after this is done, I still have issues getting consistent sharp hand held results with VR in bright day light, I might have more significant issues. Don't know if I want to go through the bother of guessing what my results are going to be with each outing. There are times when putting my camera on a tripod is a necessity for getting the image, but it is poor if I have to do that for all images. Sometimes this is impossible too. Also, if all you do is put your images on the web, or make small prints, then your demands for sharpness is different then I have for 36" prints, ymmv. no offense intended to anyone...
Click to expand...
Hi,

Good technique does not varies. What might vary is an implementation. For instance, how do you hold a camera. Do you have one hand under the lens or do you have both hands on the camera? Do you tap the shutter release button or do you roll your finger over it? If you are using AF-ON button with AF-C, do you use it properly? And so forth and so on.

Now, why are you assuming that people are saying that sharp pictures can be only achieved by using tripod. AnotherMike, Roman and others were merely saying that to properly test the camera and/or lens you have to use tripod, MLU and remote or timer to eliminate any influence of anything else. Another thing I do not understand, is why people so scared of AF fine tune and assume that when you randomly combine two components in one system, they should work flawlessly all the time. The + - 20 scale has been arbitrary chosen by Nikon and does not represent any actual distance.
--
Best regards
 
I think people are not thinking logically any longer in the forums and jumping to conclusions far too quickly.

The whole basis for shooting a D7000 on tripod with live view is to prove that the camera in itself is NOT the problem when it comes to "soft/mushy" pictures. It's not to suggest that this is the ONLY way to get sharp images.

I get very sharp images from my D7000, hand held, as long as I'm in focus and at a shutter speed where I'm not contributing blur, and (important part), now that I've done testing and realized that one of my lenses that I thought was okay (becuase it does alright on a D700) isn't in AF calibration, and I'm using other lenses.

The reason you see so many complaints is that the body is very unforgiving, and it's price point puts it within reach of people who are unwilling to learn how to use it. It's also the body with the smallest pixel density of any current Nikon - and with this comes it's own set of issues. I've shot for a long time - most folks would grade me as being extremely advanced technically. And when the D2X (remember that one?) came out - a 12mp DX body - I struggled initially - it was harder to get pin sharp shots than it was with my less resolving D70 or D100 I had at the time. But in time, instead of whining on the forums, I read, and then began to understand that it was me that was the problem, and I cleaned up my shooting technique and my focusing, to make sure it was spot on. Problems went away.

What we're seeing is another iteration of this - people who went from a D40 or something go to a D7000, shoot at too low of a shutter speed with an average lens that isn't focused properly on a target - and with the crazy pixel density of the D7000, that means soft and mushy. Yet when experienced shooters shoot with it and realize the technique is going to have to be watched and hand held shutter speeds bumped up a bit (figure on double the old film rule where a 200mm lens meant you could use 1/200th minimum), well, they're getting sharp results. Even hand held. I'm not saying there aren't a few bodies out there that are duds - gonna happen in an early production run, but most of the complaints simply are either unskilled users, users unwilling to listen, users unwilling to think things through, and/or unwilling to learn. For most of this crowd, a point and shoot is the better option.

-m
 
What I dont like though is there are plenty of people who have older nikons and they get sharp pictures with the technique they have been using for years. Now it's like your telling people if you move the camera a mm while taking a pic that might just get you a blurry shot when past cameras it didn't, Why is this with a $1500 camera that has ois built in the lense. I dont see where extra megapixels is the concern, plenty of high mp cameras like T2I dont have this issue.
Sagittarius said:
DonWeston2009 said:
I guess really "good" technique varies from person to person as does what they will go through to achieve final results. I will be trying to fine tune my focus on my D7000 with my most used 28-300VR lens and see how it goes. IF after this is done, I still have issues getting consistent sharp hand held results with VR in bright day light, I might have more significant issues. Don't know if I want to go through the bother of guessing what my results are going to be with each outing. There are times when putting my camera on a tripod is a necessity for getting the image, but it is poor if I have to do that for all images. Sometimes this is impossible too. Also, if all you do is put your images on the web, or make small prints, then your demands for sharpness is different then I have for 36" prints, ymmv. no offense intended to anyone...
Click to expand...
Hi,

Good technique does not varies. What might vary is an implementation. For instance, how do you hold a camera. Do you have one hand under the lens or do you have both hands on the camera? Do you tap the shutter release button or do you roll your finger over it? If you are using AF-ON button with AF-C, do you use it properly? And so forth and so on.

Now, why are you assuming that people are saying that sharp pictures can be only achieved by using tripod. AnotherMike, Roman and others were merely saying that to properly test the camera and/or lens you have to use tripod, MLU and remote or timer to eliminate any influence of anything else. Another thing I do not understand, is why people so scared of AF fine tune and assume that when you randomly combine two components in one system, they should work flawlessly all the time. The + - 20 scale has been arbitrary chosen by Nikon and does not represent any actual distance.
--
Best regards
Click to expand...
 
HUmmm...I am seeing a trend.

Roman
digitalman4242 said:
What I dont like though is there are plenty of people who have older nikons and they get sharp pictures with the technique they have been using for years. Now it's like your telling people if you move the camera a mm while taking a pic that might just get you a blurry shot when past cameras it didn't, Why is this with a $1500 camera that has ois built in the lense. I dont see where extra megapixels is the concern, plenty of high mp cameras like T2I dont have this issue.
Sagittarius said:
DonWeston2009 said:
I guess really "good" technique varies from person to person as does what they will go through to achieve final results. I will be trying to fine tune my focus on my D7000 with my most used 28-300VR lens and see how it goes. IF after this is done, I still have issues getting consistent sharp hand held results with VR in bright day light, I might have more significant issues. Don't know if I want to go through the bother of guessing what my results are going to be with each outing. There are times when putting my camera on a tripod is a necessity for getting the image, but it is poor if I have to do that for all images. Sometimes this is impossible too. Also, if all you do is put your images on the web, or make small prints, then your demands for sharpness is different then I have for 36" prints, ymmv. no offense intended to anyone...
Click to expand...
Hi,

Good technique does not varies. What might vary is an implementation. For instance, how do you hold a camera. Do you have one hand under the lens or do you have both hands on the camera? Do you tap the shutter release button or do you roll your finger over it? If you are using AF-ON button with AF-C, do you use it properly? And so forth and so on.

Now, why are you assuming that people are saying that sharp pictures can be only achieved by using tripod. AnotherMike, Roman and others were merely saying that to properly test the camera and/or lens you have to use tripod, MLU and remote or timer to eliminate any influence of anything else. Another thing I do not understand, is why people so scared of AF fine tune and assume that when you randomly combine two components in one system, they should work flawlessly all the time. The + - 20 scale has been arbitrary chosen by Nikon and does not represent any actual distance.
--
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--

“There is only you and your camera. The limitations in your photography are in yourself, for what we see is what we are.”
~ Ernst Haas

We are officially live!!!!
http://www.commercialfineart.com/
Old Web Site
http://www.pbase.com/romansphotos/
 
RomanJohnston said:
On tripod,

LIVE VIEW mode enabled.

Adjust focus with old contrast based focus while in live view (you should see a red square on the screen, place it on something you want dead on focus on and hold the focus button (note at least on my d300, the shutter release push 1/2 way down will not actuate focus on this mode...read your instructions on how to use live view if your not familiar). I recommend f/8 for this test.

TURN OFF auto focus after focus has been established. (so later it don't try to refocus as you take the picture)

Use a cable release or timer mode to trip shutter.

If the resulting pictures are sharp, you need to calibrate your lenses. this is becoming more and more common on modern DSLRs.
Click to expand...
Roman;

I just did this using my 18-105 VR off on a tripod and the photo looks sharp. Why is this an indication that an adjustment needs to be made?
--
'I'm not as smart today as I will be tomorrow.'
WSSA #261; Here's to 'Bo'

 
BTW - all cropped cameras, from any brand, with this level of resolution, will have the same demands on technique that the D7000 does. All of them. It is not a Nikon or Canon thing.

Now the blunt part...

You're unwilling to listen to logic and reason. Please go buy a point and shoot - seriously - you aren't qualified to use a DSLR of modern vintage - from any brand - and you won't be happy - with any of them. Good bye. Seriously. Many have tried to answer and help you out, and you're either too unknowedgeable, too stubborn, too incompetent, too much of a jerk, or simply a troll to listen. I don't know the answer and won't guess. My advice: Go buy an advanced point and shoot like a Lumix and you'll be happy - seriously. Your welcome in these forums is worn out and it is not worth replying to you. Your complete inability to apply any sort of thought to the arguments presented to you is, frankly, amazing, and causes me to make this statement. You're probably a great guy and you probably know a lot of things in other areas, but in this discussion, you're way over your head.

Good bye.
 
Here's a 100% view crop of a photo I took with my D7K at work today of the inside our IT comms cabinet.

This is a jpeg converted directly from the RAW NEF straight from the camera with absolutely NO post processing whatsoever.

Taken with a Nikon 17-55mm f2.8.





--
Dave Carter
http://www.davecarter.me.uk
 
I have a few older Nikons (F, FG, N70) and a few newer Nikons (D90, D7000). I am not "telling people if you move the camera a mm while taking a pic that might just get you a blurry shot when past cameras it didn't".

My D7000 works fine, check my gallery.
digitalman4242 said:
What I dont like though is there are plenty of people who have older nikons and they get sharp pictures with the technique they have been using for years. Now it's like your telling people if you move the camera a mm while taking a pic that might just get you a blurry shot when past cameras it didn't, Why is this with a $1500 camera that has ois built in the lense. I dont see where extra megapixels is the concern, plenty of high mp cameras like T2I dont have this issue.
Click to expand...
 
What I'm insinuating is if you want critically sharp images that will please anyone, even pixel peepers, regardless of shooting conditions, you must use a tripod, and it helps if your subject is an inanimate object that doesn't blow in the wind. Now you can do pretty well shooting with very high shutter speeds hand-held. I just now went out and took a photo with you in mind. I might post it later.

The way you have criticized I assumed you are a sharpness/noise ****. If so, use a tripod. If you just want good pictures like most of us, shoot hand-held, use good shutter speed, and have a clue about how to focus the camera. I'm pretty sure the D7000 is a whole lot better than you, so I wouldn't worry too much about whether or not the camera is up to the task. Do like I do; worry whether or not the shooter is up to the task.
 
The contrast based focus Live View uses is not part of the regular focus your camera uses with the mirror down.

Its only a show of needing to be adjusted if in normal focusing mode that they are blurry, and in live view mode it is sharp.

Or your hand holding technique needs adjustment. (IE more solid holding, faster shutter speed than normal....etc)

But doing this test proves the camera is not "faulty and needs to be serviced".

Roman
garyking said:
RomanJohnston said:
On tripod,

LIVE VIEW mode enabled.

Adjust focus with old contrast based focus while in live view (you should see a red square on the screen, place it on something you want dead on focus on and hold the focus button (note at least on my d300, the shutter release push 1/2 way down will not actuate focus on this mode...read your instructions on how to use live view if your not familiar). I recommend f/8 for this test.

TURN OFF auto focus after focus has been established. (so later it don't try to refocus as you take the picture)

Use a cable release or timer mode to trip shutter.

If the resulting pictures are sharp, you need to calibrate your lenses. this is becoming more and more common on modern DSLRs.
Click to expand...
Roman;

I just did this using my 18-105 VR off on a tripod and the photo looks sharp. Why is this an indication that an adjustment needs to be made?
--
'I'm not as smart today as I will be tomorrow.'
WSSA #261; Here's to 'Bo'

Click to expand...
--

“There is only you and your camera. The limitations in your photography are in yourself, for what we see is what we are.”
~ Ernst Haas

We are officially live!!!!
http://www.commercialfineart.com/
Old Web Site
http://www.pbase.com/romansphotos/
 
Truely awesome pics ! Thanks for sharing...

I read these posts where users trash the D7000 which make me doubt my decision to buy the D7K, and then there are brilliant photographers like you who reaffirm my faith in Nikon brand and the D7K product.

Thanks again!
 
You have gone and confused the OP with more than two objects, too many colors and technical what-all. This is what the OP needs. I took it just now, especially for this.

100% Crop, Wide Open, Hand-Held



 
I think you should shoot RAW and not jpg

Nikon NIKON D7000
1/640s f/8.0 at 500.0mm iso400
;



Nikon NIKON D7000
1/2000s f/6.3 at 14.0mm iso200
;



Nikon NIKON D7000
1/200s f/2.0 at 85.0mm iso200
;



Nikon NIKON D7000
1/160s f/1.8 at 85.0mm iso800
;



--
http://www.pbase.com/aarif/thailand_2010
 
My sister told me a joke from her horticulture days.

You can lead a horticulture, but you cant make her think.

:)

Roman
richarddd said:
RomanJohnston said:
HUmmm...I am seeing a trend.
Click to expand...
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it think?
--
http://fruminousbandersnatch.blogspot.com/
Click to expand...
--

“There is only you and your camera. The limitations in your photography are in yourself, for what we see is what we are.”
~ Ernst Haas

We are officially live!!!!
http://www.commercialfineart.com/
Old Web Site
http://www.pbase.com/romansphotos/
 
don't they need to be converted to jpeg before you can upload and display in dpr? Those aren't the RAW files are they?
--
Dave Carter
http://www.davecarter.me.uk
 
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