external flash

[stiggy]

I'm looking for an external flash for my G1. I've never used an external flash before, so any tips/suggestions on models, techniques, what to look for, etc. would be helpful. I'd like one primarily to do bounce flash for taking pictures of people in small - medium sized rooms. Thanks.

 

[hinting]

The Olympus FL-36. Not too big, and has the same feature as the pany 360.
--
:hinting
http://www.redbubble.com/people/hinting/art

 

[Godfrey]

I'm looking for an external flash for my G1. I've never used an external flash before, so any tips/suggestions on models, techniques, what to look for, etc. would be helpful. I'd like one primarily to do bounce flash for taking pictures of people in small - medium sized rooms. Thanks.

The Olympus FL-36R is a well-made, versatile, modest size dedicated flash that works perfectly with the G1. Not to big to sit on top, powerful enough for a lot of work. I use mine often.

--
Godfrey
http://godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

 

[stiggy]

Thanks hinting and Godfrey. I'll definitely look into the Olympus FL-36 and 36R. What are the differences between the two?

Also, does anyone have experience with the Vivitar DF383 or Nissin Di 466? They seem like decent, cheaper options.

 

[VariableScope]

Thanks hinting and Godfrey. I'll definitely look into the Olympus FL-36 and 36R. What are the differences between the two?

Also, does anyone have experience with the Vivitar DF383 or Nissin Di 466? They seem like decent, cheaper options.

I'm planning to get the nissin since it's a good deal cheaper. However ill miss out on a swivel head and the ability to use fp-ttl which allows shutter speeds higher than x-sync speed (1/160 right?). However it does have 4 batteries instead of two for faster recycle as well as being compact, mildly powerful and with nice controls on the back.

 

[Guy Parsons]

Thanks hinting and Godfrey. I'll definitely look into the Olympus FL-36 and 36R. What are the differences between the two?

FL-36 and FL-36R work the same on Panasonic. On Olympus the R version allows up to 3 remote flashes as wireless slaves.

Also, does anyone have experience with the Vivitar DF383 or Nissin Di 466? They seem like decent, cheaper options.

No experience but I like the idea of the battery holder of the Nissin, all batteries face the same way and can be preloaded if you can obtain a spare holder.

Some other possibilities in my list... http://homepages.tig.com.au/~parsog/panasonic/11-flash.html#flashlist currently slowly being updated and changed.....

Regards............. Guy

 

[John Glover]

If you are comfortable learning to use an automatic flash (i.e. one where you set you ISO and aperture based upon a setting on the flash), these can be had for ridiculously cheap prices on the used market. Essentially, you set your ISO and aperture, choose the correct power setting on the flash and flash w

ill adjust to provide the correct exposure within a given flash to subject distance. All the work is done by an on-board sensor on the flash. I've been using a Pentax AF280T on my G1 and it has worked beautifully....paid $35 for it a KEH.

--
John
Pentax K20D/K-x, Panasonic G1, Oly Pen E-PL1/Stylus
Canon S95/SX130is
WSSA #141PX

 

[Salvatore Castrovinci]

Goodmorning to all

I am a SIGMA & PENTAX user......

I am going to buy an E-P1 camera body to use it with my M39 screw russian lens made for ZORKY - FED - LENINRAD R.F. cameras that are the copy of the well known C.Z. Sonnar and Biogon lens made before the World War II.

I haven't dedicated flash but old models as METZ 45 CT-5, SUNPAK AUTOZOOM 3000, METZ 20 BC4, METZ 36 C2, SUNPAK POWER ZOOM 5000 AF for NIKON that are well working in auto mode ( setting ISO and corresponding f stop for the related max distance of the subjet...... ) with my SIGMA cameras.....( SD9, SD10, SD14, DP1 and now SD15 that is incoming......).

Did you know how high is the Max tension ( in V) supported at syncro contact pin of the E-P1 ?

In my SIGMA REFLEX (SD) is 250 V and in the DP1 is rounding about 15 - 25 V

For this camera I use only the METZ 45 CT-5 , the METZ 36 C2 and SUNPAK POWER ZOOM 5000 AF that have a tensiion at the syncro soket rounding between 6 -12 V.

Would please, before buy the E-P1 inform me about ?

Thanks a lot for your answers and the best light to all

Salvatore

 

[John Glover]

From Olympus america's web page FAQ......

I have a third-party electronic flash. Can I use it on the E-P1?

Flash units that are not part of the Olympus E-System may pose problems if used on the E-P1.

Thyristor-type flash units can be used with the E-P1’s Manual shooting mode as long as the sync voltage does not exceed 6.5 VDC. Third-party TTL flash units will not have TTL capability but possibly may be used with Manual exposure control. Olympus can only guarantee the operation of Olympus flash units.

So you probably shoudl use a Wein SafeSync if you want to use your current units.

--
John
Pentax K20D/K-x, Panasonic G1, Oly Pen E-PL1/Stylus
Canon S95/SX130is
WSSA #141PX

 

[Salvatore Castrovinci]

Hi John,

Thanks a lot for your quick answer.

The item is very useful..... I shall buy it quickly !

Thanks again for your suggestion.

Best regards also from Milano, Italy

Salvatore

 

[Godfrey]

Thanks hinting and Godfrey. I'll definitely look into the Olympus FL-36 and 36R. What are the differences between the two?

The R version include dedicated wireless operation with later Olympus bodies, otherwise they are identical. Panasonic does not support dedicated wireless operation on any camera so far.

The only negative to the FL36(R) that is often mentioned is that it only takes two batteries, causing slow recycle times as they become exhausted more swiftly than four battery units. While this is true, I haven't found it to be a problem in normal use. What I do when I know I'm going to be shooting a lot is just pack a couple more sets of Eneloops and change them a bit earlier. One fresh set of Eneloops has made 250+ exposures without running slow recycling times in average shooting situations (Auto TTL mode, medium size living rooms, etc). If you're running full power output all the time that number will drop by half or more, but it's rarely an issue in my use.

Also, does anyone have experience with the Vivitar DF383 or Nissin Di 466? They seem like decent, cheaper options.

No direct experience with either. I know they're missing the head swivel and a couple of the mode options of the FL36 (FP Manual operation in particular).

--
Godfrey
http://godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

 

[Michael Meissner]

Thanks hinting and Godfrey. I'll definitely look into the Olympus FL-36 and 36R. What are the differences between the two?

The FL-36 is the older flash, and the FL-36R replaced it. You won't be able to use the main new feature of the FL-36R (remote flash TTL support) on the G-1, since Panasonic doesn't support that (only the E-PL1 of the micro 4/3rds cameras supports it). The FL-36R can act as a dumb slave if you want to get into strobist type setups (the FL-36 needs a trigger to act as a dumb slave).

I put together a list of flashes that support Olympus (and Panasonic):
http://www.the-meissners.org/olympus-flash2.html

Personally, I tend to think the heavier flashes (FL-50, Metz 50/58) overwhelm the micro 43/rds cameras unless you put the flashes in brackets (and by the time you get to a bracket, the camera is no longer micro).

Also, does anyone have experience with the Vivitar DF383 or Nissin Di 466? They seem like decent, cheaper options.

The main thing that you loose is FP-TTL mode, which is useful if you are trying to use the flash as fill flash on bright sunny days, or when you are using a fast lens like the 20mm wide open. FP-TTL mode allows you to get a faster shutter speed than the normal flash sync.

Note, Vivitar has two other models (183, 283). If you go for the 283, be careful, since the Vivitar company sold the flash unit to Sekur and they reused the model number 283. The original 283 was a generic flash used by generations of photographers, but it tended to put hundreds of volts through the hot-shoe, and would likely fry your camera. The new 283 is dedicated to a given camera (in this case Olympus/Panasonci), but you get a few more features by stepping up to the 383.

The Nissan does not swivel, which means that you can't use the flash other than firing straight ahead (i.e. ceiling bounces) when the camera is in portrait orientation. You can do a ceiling bounce when shooting in landscape orientation and crop the photo to portrait format. On the other hand, the Nissan has a faster quoted recharge time (4 seconds) than either the FL-36R (8 seconds) or Vivitar 383 (9 seconds).

 

[Michael Meissner]

The only negative to the FL36(R) that is often mentioned is that it only takes two batteries, causing slow recycle times as they become exhausted more swiftly than four battery units. While this is true, I haven't found it to be a problem in normal use.

I found one nice thing about 2 batteries over 4. Greenbatteries has a holder that is just the right size for a BLS-1 battery used by my E-P2, 2 AA batteries and a SD-HC memory card, so I can minimize the number of holders when I go out:
http://www.greenbatteries.com/nylbatwal.html

 

[Guy Parsons]

I put together a list of flashes that support Olympus (and Panasonic):
http://www.the-meissners.org/olympus-flash2.html

Michael, I wasn't aware of your flash page and now I am.

I've added that as a link in my flash page that started with Panasonic LX3 compatibility. Mine is currently undergoing surgery and will not be as complete as yours, but between the two of us somebody should be able to sort out suitable flashes. http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/panasonic/11-flash.html#flashlist

Regards............ Guy

 

[compositor20]

that nissin di466 flash is really smalland lightweight! i wasimpressed when i see it minutes ago in store

but the 2 flashes for olympus and panasonic are fl-36r and metz af-50 because as the user said they have FP mode for daylight fill and they are both capable of wireless off camera flash

they both swivel and tilt and the metz has a built in bounce card and reycles faster but is not so well made as the olympus and doesnt have the dial for exposure compensation (uses buttons)

but the are the same price so probably the metz would be more usefull and future proof