Can't seem to get that Perfect Crisp Pics

[PicturePerfectPhotgraphy]

I cannot get a perfect crisp shot from my D300. I use very good glass only f/2.8 Nikkor lenses. Is there something on my camera that I am just not setting correctly? My danamic AF is set to 21 points, center weighted area is at 13mm. I still can't get a perfectly crisp shot, I can't figure it out, please help.

 

[msjhaffey]

Coukd you post a pic or two to show us?
--
Sean
http://msjhaffey.zenfolio.com/

 

[Wolf's Head]

I have that problem most of the time, too. I used to comfort myself by saying "it's just down to inferior lenses". Then I bought a set of the best lenses and sharpness still wasn't there most of the time, so I had to accept that it's me, not the kit.

I'm too lazy to use a tripod and the old guide about minimum shutter speed being 1/focal length (in 35mm terms e.g. = 1/60 at 40 mm) doesn't seem to work for digital cameras: several times that appears to give good results, but I live in the gloomy UK and don't like to go much over base ISO so I don't get many sharp photos!

I think the first thing to look at is getting the highest shutter speed you can and then look at bean bags or very solid tripods!
--
Best wishes,

Alan J

 

[Island Golfer]

Make sure that your focus point is set to only focus on the center of your viewfinder. Then, make sure that you have the focus lock when you press the shutter half way down (not set to follow things that float in & out of the scene; or that causes refocusing as you recompose your scene). If you are using f/2.8 lenses, you most likely have larger and heavier lenses) Until you perfect keeping movement of your lens-holding to a minimum, I'd suggest shooting above 1/200 sec. That may mean you will have to up your ISO to achieve that faster shutter speed. It might help get better advice if (as has been suggested) you post a couple of the images you refer to. ; and if you give a bit more information.
--
truview

 

[PicturePerfectPhotgraphy]

I will try and post a couple of pics tonight when I get home from my main job but it still may not show the detail I am wanting to achieve do to internet compression. I do use heavier lenses f/2.8's but I may try and use tripods more often to reduce camera shake. The problem seems to be that I take a shot say around 10 feet from the subjects get a full body shot and then crop closer in photoshop to say just the face only. I am just not getting the crispness at that point. What focus point settings should be used on my D300?

 

[pavi1]

Digital zoom is not that good. If you want a head shot you need to get closer.

The problem seems to be that I take a shot say around 10 feet from the subjects get a full body shot and then crop closer in photoshop to say just the face only. I am just not getting the crispness at that point.

--
Everything happens for a reason. #1 reason: poor planning
WSSA #44

 

[DezM]

Post a link to the original file so we can view what you're viewing, whether a Raw file or Jpeg.

As for very good f/2.8 glass, they are not at their sharpest wide open. Meaning, at f/2.8 you'll get less crispness than you would if you stopped down, for example at f/9 or so. Use this link to check your lens's sharpest aperture and take it from there (check MTF charts): http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests

Some here have also fine-tuned their AF settings in-camera. The D300(s) will store a database of settings per lens that's tuned.
--
Dez

http://photos.dezmix.com

 

[malch]

In addition to some other excellent tips:

Nikon cameras have relatively strong anti-alias filters to prevent moire. This can make your images look soft and many new Nikon shooters have been disappointed by this. However, it's relatively easy to compensate for that filter with a little careful sharpening in post-processing. In fact, I'd say it was required.

 

[f8BeThereToo]

... Try a monopod. I don't like tripods either so a monopod is a nice compromise. It can also be carried and used in locations where tripods are banned. Bogen makes a nice monopod head that flips from horizontal to vertical; when I purchased it years ago it was around $20.

Try decoupling autofocus from the shutter release button and use the AF-ON button instead. Locking focus is as simple as removing your finger from the button. All I want the shutter release to do is activate the camera meter and fire the shutter.... I keep my D200 set to the center-focus area and do like I did in the Good Ol' Days: focus on my subject and then recompose if the subject isn't in the center of the frame.

And like at least one other person noted images can come out of the camera rather soft, so don't be afraid to use unsharp mask to tweak the heck out of them. I keep in-camera sharpening rather high in order to take advantage of the camera LCD but I always switch to unsharp mask in post processing to get the best results. I like NX2 for the ease in which it allows sharpening of specific parts of an image.

 

[buildingsights]

I will try and post a couple of pics tonight when I get home from my main job but it still may not show the detail I am wanting to achieve do to internet compression.

compressing the image for e-mail or the internet will reduce the image quality, and will be very noticeble when zoom-in.

I do use heavier lenses f/2.8's but I may try and use tripods more often to reduce camera shake.

some sort of support (monopod, tripod, bean bag, a friendly shoulder!) is always handy and with telephoto/heavy lenses speed of 1/250 sec and above is desireble.

The problem seems to be that I take a shot say around 10 feet from the subjects get a full body shot and then crop closer in photoshop to say just the face only. I am just not getting the crispness at that point.

with any crop you are going to lose some resolution bigger the crop bigger the dissapointment.

saludos.

 

[archer69]

The problem seems to be that I take a shot say around 10 feet from the subjects get a full body shot and then crop closer in photoshop to say just the face only. I am just not getting the crispness at that point. What focus point settings should be used on my D300?

No offense, but what do you expect after cropping (deleting) 80-90% of the of the information?

You want to have a crisp head shot, then frame it that way before taking the picture. That's the way, and the only way, to get the best out of your camera and lens.

Sorry, but I don't think there is anything wrong with the camera or lens, but only with your expectations (and understanding of photography).

--
Regards,
JH
JH-Pphotography

 

[PicturePerfectPhotgraphy]

My original thread was an extreme case in something I would do. I understand completely how to move closer to my subject to frame in only the head. Just sometimes in post processing I see things that I didn't see at the time of the shoot. I don't understand everything about all the aspects of photography but I have trained eye and camera knowledge to back up all of my pro shots. As far as I know, noone knows everything.

 

[DNikonist]

I suggest you reduce zoom to 20-30 mm, take one step closer to the subject, use a monopod and raise ISO so that shutter is 1/80 - 1/100 sec. If you don't get sharp images doing this then it must be back focus of the lens or something else.

 

[HSway]

but doesn’t mean sharper.

AF.. is the focus somewhere else or it is not anywhere? Answers a lot. Under controlled assured condition to be checked.

Cropping.. not sure if I understand, but have to be sensible n based on full matter – tiff.

Lens/camera – get to know lens well (Dez), its sweet FL and f spot.

Assuming you use mirror lock making critical findings or other indirect shutter release on tripod to conclude the cam/lens has a flaw. And your technique – shutter speed is adequate to subject in motion (branch with bird e.g) even in low light.

You can also put more efforts into your description so that people I see desperate to help stand a chance; posting a shot with exif n description of a few circumstances is a better entry as mentioned right first from above.
Good luck, hope you solve it.
Best,
Hynek

--
http://www.sunwaysite.com

 

[lac111]

You always want to test using a tripod, which takes "you" out of the equation and just tests the camera and lens, in other words the equipment. If the images are sharp then you know it has something to do with your handholding technique or settings i.e too slow shutter speed, AF mode etc.
--
Lora

I've been on Dpreview since June 2006. Unfortunately, some posting history has been lost along the way...

 

[Island Golfer]

What several posts have pointed it out seems to be the answer to your concern. You are using one of the best lenses Nikon makes. Unless you have an AF-fine tuning problem (which I doubt) you have to look at the other issues raised. When you crop severly in order to issolate one area of an image, you are not going to get the same quality of sharpness that was once available to film camera users. Digital is rapidly approaching that level; but, it is not there, yet. The best you can hope for is to approach it by utilizing a tripod, a remote shutter release, very still subjects and accurate focus. Even then, if you crop too far, image sharpness is going to suffer. Therefore, as one post suggested, get closer to the "actual" portion of the image you want in critical focus; and start with a larger image of that area of your scene, in the first place.
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truview

 

[Richard_NC]

You always want to test using a tripod, which takes "you" out of the equation and just tests the camera and lens, in other words the equipment. If the images are sharp then you know it has something to do with your handholding technique or settings i.e too slow shutter speed, AF mode etc.
--
Lora

I've been on Dpreview since June 2006. Unfortunately, some posting history has been lost along the way...

Very good points. Being a computer systems analyst, I often have to isolate problems down to the source. The best thing for this is start with the best possible scenario. A tripod mounted pic of a still subject on a sunny day with the camera set to ISO 200, a middle aperture (F8-F11), a reasonably fast shutter (1/200+), and single mode focus with confirmation would produce the best possible result. Then you'll know if hand-held, shutter speed, or other camera settings cause the issue. Only then can you understand and correct the problem.

 

[RomanJohnston]

You need a tripod, a remote trigger release.

1. Put the camera on a tripod and take a picture in normal mode. (leave the tripod set up so you can take anothher shot later)

If sharp, your done. Your hand holding/knowledge of shutter speeds or lack of using a tripod is the problem area.

Still not sharp?

2. Put your camera in Tripod Mode Live View. Focus again using the contrast based (slower focus) in live view mode.

If sharp, your done. You need to buy a kit and do a bit of tuning of your lens with the cameras built in features.

Still not sharp?

You need some help with Nikon. Somthing is out of wack.

Roman

--

'To consult the rules of composition before making a picture is a little like consulting the law of gravitation before going for a walk'

• Edward Weston

http://www.pbase.com/romansphotos/

 

[GoldRingNikkor]

but I live in the gloomy UK and don't like to go much over base ISO so I don't get many sharp photos!

I'll take a noisy shot over a soft one any time. I think you might want to revise your shooting habits. This is not film anymore...

 

[arachnophilia]

You want to have a crisp head shot, then frame it that way before taking the picture. That's the way, and the only way, to get the best out of your camera and lens.

what do you mean, just hit that "enhance" button like they do on CSI all the time.