Fake Window

Jim Cassatt

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There are times when you want to pose a model against a window backlit by sunight, perhaps with a sheer curtain in front. I have also seen interesting pictures where the window is on the side and the light is coming through venetian blinds.

My problem is that my studio is in my windowless unfinished basement. In addition my wife tolerates my photography as long as models are confined to the basement and are not allowed to invade our living space :(

So my idea is to construct a frame for a double window and hang it from the rafters. I keep a roll of white seamless paper up semi permanently since the stuff is such a pain to roll and unroll (and hang other backcrops in front of it). For the backlit pictures, I would just use reflected light off the backdrop, just as I do for high key portraits. I could also move the window off to the side and light it through a large diffusion panel.

I was thinking of constructing the thing out of 2x4's, but decided against it because of the weight. So I think I will use 1x4's and trim it with 1x2's. This arrangement is inherently unstable, especially if you just nail it together, so I think I will use mortisse and tenon joinery for added stability (it helps to have a well-equipped woodworking shop although I don't have a dove-tail jig).

I guess my questions are, has anyone ever done something like this; am I missing something and am I doing a lot of work for nothing when there may be some sort of commercial product available?

Thanks
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Jim
http://www.pbase.com/jcassatt
 
I know a couple local studios with "fake" windows and draps/sheers
One has hers mounted on a base with rollers so she can "roll" it into position

The other has it suspended from an overhead wire so it can slide in/out of position

Both are "real" windows removed from "real" houses when replacement windows were installed, not something cobbled together out of scrap.

Both use a strobe and/or large softbox to provide the "light thru the window"
 
Thankis for the input. I had not thought about putting tghe contraption on rollers, but that would solve a whole host of problems, especially when you want to change sets quickly.

I don't think the trim is so important as I suspect the edges won't be visible if I make a double window. however, it is something worth considering, so i htink I will take a bit more time and run the 1x2's through the router to create some clamshell molding.

Thanks again

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Jim
http://www.pbase.com/jcassatt
 
Why not contact a few local building contractors and ask them to give you a window they remove from an old house?
 
Done it many times and worked on large room sets in the past. You'll need more than just a window, you'll need to build a small wall with a window in it. Sets are usually built light weight so they can be moved around, wheels would work if you never plan on seeing feet. Wall panels are usually 1/8" to 1/4" panel material either painted, papered, stuccoed or faux brick or wood.

As for lighting it, depending on if you want to see out the window, which adds complications of what is visible outside the window. You can sheet the outside frame in velum and use a strobe head for illumination or use a extra large soft box. However, don't discount the option of a bare light source throwing window frame shadows onto your subject. It this case no velum on the window.
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35 to 4 x 5 - NPS Member
 
Done it many times and worked on large room sets in the past. You'll need more than just a window, you'll need to build a small wall with a window in it. Sets are usually built light weight so they can be moved around, wheels would work if you never plan on seeing feet. Wall panels are usually 1/8" to 1/4" panel material either painted, papered, stuccoed or faux brick or wood.

As for lighting it, depending on if you want to see out the window, which adds complications of what is visible outside the window. You can sheet the outside frame in velum and use a strobe head for illumination or use a extra large soft box. However, don't discount the option of a bare light source throwing window frame shadows onto your subject. It this case no velum on the window.
Also [some additional lighting/"scenery" options]...

Rather than using the window frame itself to "throw shadows", you could use a projector/gobo [appropriately positioned] to throw the window-frame shadow pattern.

For viewing "scenery" through the faux window, you could use either a backlit printed "translite" [with the outside scene image]; or, you could use an appropriately illuminated "chromakey" [blue or green] backdrop behind the window that you can use to replace with an appropriate scenery image in Photoshop or other post-processing software. [Both of these methods are used extensively in cinematography.]
 
JPb and Garryare right on the money.
I worked as a set builder for commercial studios back in a day.
There are numerous solutions.

I think you might get away with a foamcore board window, for needs that you described.

Take 1 inch thick 4x8 foam board. Draw the window. (French , country , neo colonial-whatever you like.

Cut out the negative space (where the glass should be). So you will have something that visually looks like a wall with a window.

If covered with shier it will look like a real window. Also can be used as a gobo / cookie to project light. The window will weight a under a pound and can be held with a light stand.

You might like to take a look at this tutorial for projecting light:
http://www.learnmyshot.com/Projecting-Light-for-Creative-Effect

here is the image i dug out where I used foam board window (1 inch thick)
I used it for a lamp catalog shoot to suggest home environment.
good luck!





free resource to learn photography techniques: http://LearnMyShot.com
 
Finally built my fake window to be used in my windowless basement studio.

Although I am rather pleased with my initial results shown below, I still have a couple of issues to work out.







----
Jim
http://www.pbase.com/jcassatt
 
My problem is that my studio is in my windowless unfinished basement. In addition my wife tolerates my photography as long as models are confined to the basement and are not allowed to invade our living space :(
Wait, your wife lets you play with models in the basement?

Forget lighting and set building... "convincing the wife" is the most valuable technique you should be sharing.

Great results, btw :-)
 
Another tip for a portable window set- you can use wheels under it, and then hide them with removable base-molding, attaching it with Velcro.
 
I did use wheels. So far I have been just putting something if front of the gap, but I like your suggestion. I have some masonite left over that I can use for that.

Thanks
--
Jim
http://www.pbase.com/jcassatt
 
JPb and Garryare right on the money.
I worked as a set builder for commercial studios back in a day.
There are numerous solutions.

I think you might get away with a foamcore board window, for needs that you described.

Take 1 inch thick 4x8 foam board. Draw the window. (French , country , neo colonial-whatever you like.

Cut out the negative space (where the glass should be). So you will have something that visually looks like a wall with a window.

If covered with shier it will look like a real window. Also can be used as a gobo / cookie to project light. The window will weight a under a pound and can be held with a light stand.

You might like to take a look at this tutorial for projecting light:
http://www.learnmyshot.com/Projecting-Light-for-Creative-Effect

here is the image i dug out where I used foam board window (1 inch thick)
I used it for a lamp catalog shoot to suggest home environment.
good luck!





free resource to learn photography techniques: http://LearnMyShot.com
So the floor, wall, and window are all fake?

If the floor is fake. What kind is it? I am looking for a fake wood floor that can be put down and taken easily and quickly.

Is the wall and the window made out of 1 piece of foam core? Or is that separate pieces and the seam of the 2 pieces is hidden behind the curtain?

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Brook
 

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