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Yes exposure is pretty far off what the camera suggests - that's the way it is. I bracketed this and chose the -2½EV to work with. I had a -3½EV exposure with no blown highlight but it cost too much on the shadows. In a scene with extreme direct or reflected sun it's necessary to blow a few highlights.You indicated the shot was challenging DR-wise but still it seems the exposure is pretty far off, almost as if exposed to protect the specular highlight reflecting off the water. Perhaps I'm underestimating the DR of the scene?
Here I used LR recovery and the Adjustment Brush to select the areas I wanted to lift exposure for. I do use dodging sometimes. Or fill light (carefully). Or Photomatix (carefully).What did you have to do to bring the photo back? simple adjustment of levels or curve? an exotic "curve" adjustment? dodge the hot spot while bringing up the rest of the photo?
No camera can capture an image like the final one shown out of the box.Also, why isn't the camera taking a good photo in the field? Is it just the hot spot reflection that is throwing off the exposure?
The light was pretty much like you see in the final image.I'm also curious as to how dark it was out -- not that this info tells us anything photographically, but with just your eyss, was it bright enough to walk around without tripping on stuff? or was it so dark you needed a flashlight?
I wonder why there is not any complaint about vertical banding at low iso when people do this processing on Nikon,Just want to share and discuss.
Difficult light like this is quite common when you shoot landscape with UWA. In this example I had a slightly burned highlight and a pitch black background. I did bracket but I found the image was unclear when I used multiple exposures.
The final image will print A3 I think. But it's not a free lunch, it takes a lot of careful PP, and preserving detail and true color in the lifted shadows (at a fine art level) is not always possible.
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Nowith my D300?
No, but my intention was not to compare D700 to other cameras. I'd like to discuss D700 for landscape work.Just wondering....you found a decent way to get the DR back, but I do this even with D2X files....and with files like your example. I prefer to do a DR blend, but can easily do this with most any current camera.
--Nowith my D300?
No, but my intention was not to compare D700 to other cameras. I'd like to discuss D700 for landscape work.Just wondering....you found a decent way to get the DR back, but I do this even with D2X files....and with files like your example. I prefer to do a DR blend, but can easily do this with most any current camera.
No in fact old CCDs where very, very good at this. I'd not recommend a cropped CMOS for shadowlifting for someone who really needs it.Just making sure that people reading this don't think that their older camera is not capable of such Post Processing or good for landscape work.
I wouldn't hesitate lifting shadow detail with a d2x or d2xs. These two cameras were very capable and native iso 100 was excellent! Of course high iso lifted shadows would be noisy but who shoots high iso landscapes.No in fact old CCDs where very, very good at this. I'd not recommend a cropped CMOS for shadowlifting for someone who really needs it.Just making sure that people reading this don't think that their older camera is not capable of such Post Processing or good for landscape work.
Well, I have both the D700 and D300 and I see at least one more stop of info that you can pull out of shadows with the former. I had the D2x as well, and there was just no comparison to the D700 in what you could pull out of the shadows. I used to bracket all the time, and now I find I can get away with layer blending from a single raw or just use dodge/burn (which was all but useless in CS3).with my D300?