A550 raw noise vs A850 vs Canon 7D

OK, another dumb question. The IR RAW filenames end in NR1D, NR2, RESM, REST, RESW, VFATB and VFAWB. Is there someplace on the IR site where these are explained?

--
'Better' is the enemy of 'Good Enough'.
 
Printing is just too expensive and wasteful of the planets resources, IMO.
Well, a print is "on" 24/7, so I wonder how the resource drain equation works out if I were to display an image on a screen in the same fashion (assuming it were possible). Don't get me wrong, I think wall monitors displaying images in lieu of prints is a big part of the future of photography, but don't delude yourself into thinking that the world is better served by your use of electricity than it is by someone else's use of paper and ink. Ironically, more paper and ink is being used since the advent of computers than was being used before [not necessarily for photos, but true for other documents].
Quicker and more fun to look at them on a screen anyways!
They look better in print.
--
Anthony Beach
 
At ISO100 the total noise RMS value falls below the distance between the raw levels, i.e. - below one raw bit. That's noise-free by any sane measure. You even may then need to add some random noise to counter the quantization bit-aliasing if you raise the shadows too much.
That is true for a850/a900 and the a700 as well.
Spoken like a true geek who doesn't really do photography. Nonetheless, I challenge you to shoot a scene at ISO 100 underexposed by two stops and push the conversion to bring it back, and show me that it is "noise-free."
I speak as a physicist experimentalist. And I know enough of photography and of cameras in question here. Pushing ISO100 from those cams by two stops always produces perfectly clean images. It's quite strange that you don't know that... At 3 stops push there's some noise from bit-aliasing, but not really much more than normal noise at ISO800.
And no flash can save you from fill-light/DRO use when shooting contrasty sun-lit scene. And then it's quite easy to get shadows pushed by 3-4 stops.
Under those conditions, I'm not shooting ISO 3200. Again, this is precisely the kind of bogus analysis that diverges from real world photography. It is better to optimize exposure and augment lighting then to kludge your way to something remotely usable using crude post processing tools.
And nobody does shoot it at 3200. They shoot at 100/160 and then push the shadows way up till 800/3200. And even you should understand that it's normally quite impossible to light up huge open areas in order to just fill the shadows for your exposure.

It becomes quite obvious from your comments that you really know zilch of the stuff you're so ardently professing. No point in discussing it further with you, as that would be the third full round of all the same.

Now you'd better re-read our exchange from the beginning, and do so until you finally start to understand something.
 
Well, for giving an equal chance to A850, it must be better to use DxO.

Regards,
--
Michel J
 
He should because he is masquerading as an expert on that camera and apparently on others he has no direct experience with.
The one who's 'masquerading' here is exactly yourself.

I choose to have 'direct experience', like owning, only with the stuff that I liked during my personal testing of it and through the analysis of factual data. That is why I don't buy FF cameras. I neither need them, nor do I like them.

I own and use two a700's, an a500 and an Lx3. Last year I also gave away for free an a300, an E-420 and a G9. And though I never made a secret of it, it's still none of your business.

And I base my choices of equipment on hard experimental data, while you base your fervent gossip on hopelessly perverted delusions.
 
I speak as a physicist experimentalist. And I know enough of photography and of cameras in question here.
"Enough" as in that you actually use them for photography?
Pushing ISO100 from those cams by two stops always produces perfectly clean images. It's quite strange that you don't know that...
Haha:



Same EV, but one is taken at ISO 100 and the other at ISO 400. No noise?
And no flash can save you from fill-light/DRO use when shooting contrasty sun-lit scene. And then it's quite easy to get shadows pushed by 3-4 stops.
Under those conditions, I'm not shooting ISO 3200. Again, this is precisely the kind of bogus analysis that diverges from real world photography. It is better to optimize exposure and augment lighting then to kludge your way to something remotely usable using crude post processing tools.
And nobody does shoot it at 3200. They shoot at 100/160 and then push the shadows way up till 800/3200. And even you should understand that it's normally quite impossible to light up huge open areas in order to just fill the shadows for your exposure.
I would like to see one of these photos (if you can call them that) that you you took. For large areas I give up on deep shadows the same as I give up on spectral highlights. I take a different approach entirely to shooting landscapes than what I take when I need to push ISO values, which is why these sorts of ISO 3200 comparisons with cameras not up to the task are irrelevant to me.
It becomes quite obvious from your comments that you really know zilch of the stuff you're so ardently professing.
Lets go out and shoot sometime, and see who brings back the better photograph. I'm bringing my A850, what are you bringing?
No point in discussing it further with you, as that would be the third full round of all the same.
Yes, there is truly no point since you never addressed the points I raised in my first reply to you.
Now you'd better re-read our exchange from the beginning, and do so until you finally start to understand something.
What I understand is that you are full of yourself and have little else to offer.
--
Anthony Beach
 
You're such a jerk, it's laughable.
He should because he is masquerading as an expert on that camera and apparently on others he has no direct experience with.
The one who's 'masquerading' here is exactly yourself.
Right, as in I actually shoot with the A850.
And I base my choices of equipment on hard experimental data,
You mean such as what you get from Imaging Resource? Again, laughable.
while you base your fervent gossip on hopelessly perverted delusions.
No gossip required, I have the A850 in my hand and just went out and tested one of your bogus hypotheses. I'm not delusional about what I'm doing, and would happily take you on in the real world of photography -- my A850 against your A700 -- and we'll see who can get better resolution, more DR, or shoot under more adverse conditions.
--
Anthony Beach
 
Wow! you must have a huge amount of wall space, or shoot very few photos!

You are old school André. I recently read that less than 10% of digital images ever get printed. That means 90% of the time digital images are viewed on a screen. The only time I have large prints made is for something very special or if someone wants them printed. Printing is just too expensive and wasteful of the planets resources, IMO. Quicker and more fun to look at them on a screen anyways!
-Phil
I actually do have a lot of wall space, and I change the pictures all the time. I like to look at how the picture comes out when it is printed, it is very different to look at a big print compared to a smal screen. The impression of the picture changes with size, some get better - others just cant take that much size. And some pictures do not work at all alone, and needs other pictures to work out properly - like when the idea are of a more conseptual character, then using the screen just dont give me satisfying playroom.

My computer and printer is my modern darkroom, I dont think I would contiue to take pictures if I could not make prints. The screen just dont make it for me. I also print some for others.

If a picture is only to be shown on screen, I dont understand the fuss about pixel level pixel peeping. When do I need to crop a picture so bad I end up with a screensize 1:1 picture, never happened to me. The screen is only around 74 dpi after all.

Oviestly a lot of things I do not understand, I can live with that. I guess you are right, may be I am a bit old fashion. :-)

André
 
As for the bit about "ISO speed", it's been a while since I read their site. As I recall, they measure noise compared to actual ISO, which sounds like a good idea to me....
There's no such thing as 'actual ISO' in digital photography, there's only gain and quantization here. The camera manufacturers use the old (and only) definition taking into account the 18% grey exposure.

DxO invent some 'true ISO' to their liking that is often too far from standard, and then they use their 'ISO' in deriving their 'marks'. And those DxO idiots don't even take into account the fact that all sensors have some non-linearity in their response; a700 is a stark example of such non-linear sensor response - it's near-exponent.

It's obviously totally up to manufacturer as how to setup the ISO gauge in their cameras. The only thing a tester should do to correct the possible manufacturer calibration errors is to count in the AE compensation needed to normalize the physical exposure parameters across the cameras/lenses tested.
This was the hard thing for me to get my head around recently. I have a couple of cameras that give different exposure times even when set to the same ISO. I was (mistakingly) thinking it was due to sensor size. When I went back to do some more research, it seems that the manufacturers can set the gain to whatever they want. ISO means whatever they want it to mean!

So, unless two cameras were designed to give the same exposure for the same settings, you're not likely to get an exact 1:1 comparison.

In the end, the best thing is to do what you've done -- shoot some sample photos and just look at the noise.

But I don't think that the fact that ISOs can be set to, well, whatever, is obvious. Once you get past that, then the question to answer is how does camera A's noise compare to camera B, and if you can do such a comparison using the same exposure time, then maybe you'll have a fair comparison. (And I would have thought that DxO would base their "true ISO" off of the exposure time used, but that just is an assumption on my part...??)
--
Gary W.
 
André ,

So i am old fashioned also and so is Epson , Haghnemühle , Ilfiord , Harman etc...

I use the A900 only RAW so i have the choice or to downsize for screen (diamontage) , making an album printed by Apple iphoto or printing myself A2 on baryta paper .

As i have not the canon 7d or the sony 550 i can not compare . Why should i as i am very happy with the A900 up to 1600 iso . Note that for high quality prints i do not use high iso because the nature' of the subjects is not asking for high iso : landscape , architecure , model ....
Noise is not the only factor in image quality .
Guido
 
André ,

So i am old fashioned also and so is Epson , Haghnemühle , Ilfiord , Harman etc...
o my, Ilford, Hahnemühle... this IS old fashion. Imagin some of us more interested in paper quality than high iso nois at 1:1 peeping... What are we thinking of? ;-)
I use the A900 only RAW so i have the choice or to downsize for screen (diamontage) , making an album printed by Apple iphoto or printing myself A2 on baryta paper .

As i have not the canon 7d or the sony 550 i can not compare . Why should i as i am very happy with the A900 up to 1600 iso . Note that for high quality prints i do not use high iso because the nature' of the subjects is not asking for high iso : landscape , architecure , model ....
Noise is not the only factor in image quality .
Guido
Just as I suspected, there IS more than one factor... I cant help it, I do enjoy making pictures, quality really com out second or third. I hope you folks out there dont get lost in your pixels, try zooming out a bit, your pixels might make up an suprisingly nice picture.

André
 
Differences smaller than that are of only academic interest. Comparing nois only is not a basis for any conclusion.
Wrong. Small local differences get averaged over larger areas. If they average down to the same value as a noise-free image, then it may be OK under certain conditions. The real problem is that most kinds of digital image noise do not average down to zero - they average down to spatial patterns and level shifts.
I cant ague against this: There IS only ONE factor needed to make a solid conclusion. I wish the rest of the world was this simple. Imagine if you could go to the doctor and just show him the color of your toungue, and then be gruaranteed a 100% correct diagnosis! Great. :-D

André
 
Agorabasta has posted enough in the past to show that he knows his stuff too, but there are things that I would write off as a difference of opinion or of approach. Here's my thought -- I think DxO probably has a test procedure which tests what they want to test and isn't the same thing that Agorabasta wants to test or thinks is important.
Yes but Agorabasta is too dismissive and seems to see the world in B&W. As you say DxO test what they want to test (as most scientists do) but state what they do and it is replicateable...to dismiss it as unscientific makes me question Agorabasta's agenda.

I'd prefer him to substantiate the claim than you on his behalf, based on past experience of him. I'm not denying he has knowledge...but he seems too dismissive in a way that is frankly unscientific in itself (or per se as he would say).

I just want him to justify his rather glib throwaway comments
 
Haha:



Same EV, but one is taken at ISO 100 and the other at ISO 400. No noise?
What is the noise here?
Plenty of noise there, in both of them. Not that I would consider it objectionable in a print or reasonably sized for the web.
The patterns are absolutely identical in those 'images'.
Well, then so much for your hypothesis that ISO 100 would generate a "noise-free" file when underexposed by two stops, since it mostly has the same level of noise as the ISO 400 shot that was exposed at the same EV.
You're simply pathetic...
What is pathetic is someone who thinks they are getting optimum data for their photography by pixel peeping, and who evaluates cameras based on ISO 3200 shots taken by a third party over which said person has no control of the conditions under which those sample images were taken.
--
Anthony Beach
 
Printing is just too expensive and wasteful of the planets resources, IMO.
Well, a print is "on" 24/7, so I wonder how the resource drain equation works out if I were to display an image on a screen in the same fashion (assuming it were possible). Don't get me wrong, I think wall monitors displaying images in lieu of prints is a big part of the future of photography, but don't delude yourself into thinking that the world is better served by your use of electricity than it is by someone else's use of paper and ink. Ironically, more paper and ink is being used since the advent of computers than was being used before [not necessarily for photos, but true for other documents].
Quicker and more fun to look at them on a screen anyways!
They look better in print.
Not to me. Prints are totally dependant on reflected light of varying temperatures off of a very limited number of pigments and dyes on its surface which is very different then the way our eyes see real images. Prints are old technology. I much prefer looking at images on a quality monitor with a wide color gamut where I can zoom in on interesting features I had not noticed when I took the photo. It is like revisiting a location and more fun than a static print.
Images on good monitors just look better than prints.
-Phil
 

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