F505V : manual focus

[Andreas P.]

Hi,

For me the improved manual focus is one of the most useful progresses
of the F505V (compared to the F505). It seems that the distance specification
is accurate. So, especially in extreme low light conditions (where is no way to
lock for the autofocus) i set the distance, set an suitable shutter time and
the result is great!

Best regards,

Andreas

 

[Ulysses]

Hi there Andreas. I have a question for you and others who have more experience with this.

The user's guide says about the manual focus: "When recording still images, the LCD image is zoomed in 2x and the focus mode indicator is displayed. When a sharp focus is achieved, the image returns to normal and the (F> (manual focus) indicator changes from yellow to white. When recording moving images, the image is not zoomed. You can adjust the focus distance from 13/16 inches (2 cm) to infinite."

Now, my questions/assumptions are:

1. My (F> indicator changes initially from white when I am not touching the focus ring, to yellow as soon as I touch the focus ring and try to turn it. So the yellow color is simply to indicate that the focus is being changed. Is this correct?

2. The yellow focus indicator is NOT an indication that you have a good focus or even a bad focus, is that correct?

3. If the above is true, then how do you KNOW that you have a good focus? For example, if you are in a low-light situation, I would imagine that I'd have to simply try to guess the distance involved in terms of meters, correct? In this situation, you cannot tell even with the LCD zoomed in by 2x that the image is or is not in focus, is that your observation?

4. The F505 used to have the little Left and Right arrows on either side of the green dot. So the dot served as an indicator that the focus was achieved. This is not the case anymore. The green dot now lets you know that exposure information has been calculated, is that correct?

These questions are posted to Andreas, but any of the others are free to answer it. I am not disappointed in this mode of operation. I simply want to understand it better so that I get the best use out of it.

Thanks for any help you folks can provide.

Hi,

For me the improved manual focus is one of the most useful progresses
of the F505V (compared to the F505). It seems that the distance
specification
is accurate. So, especially in extreme low light conditions (where is no
way to
lock for the autofocus) i set the distance, set an suitable shutter time and
the result is great!

 

[Jacques D'Hondt]

Hi there Andreas. I have a question for you and others who have more
experience with this.

The user's guide says about the manual focus: "When recording still
images, the LCD image is zoomed in 2x and the focus mode indicator is
displayed. When a sharp focus is achieved, the image returns to normal
and the (F> (manual focus) indicator changes from yellow to white. When
recording moving images, the image is not zoomed. You can adjust the
focus distance from 13/16 inches (2 cm) to infinite."

Now, my questions/assumptions are:

1. My (F> indicator changes initially from white when I am not touching
the focus ring, to yellow as soon as I touch the focus ring and try to
turn it. So the yellow color is simply to indicate that the focus is
being changed. Is this correct?

Absolutely

2. The yellow focus indicator is NOT an indication that you have a good
focus or even a bad focus, is that correct?

Always right

3. If the above is true, then how do you KNOW that you have a good focus?
For example, if you are in a low-light situation, I would imagine that
I'd have to simply try to guess the distance involved in terms of meters,
correct? In this situation, you cannot tell even with the LCD zoomed in
by 2x that the image is or is not in focus, is that your observation?

Yes (reading my "505V distance indicator on manual focusing" post may help).

4. The F505 used to have the little Left and Right arrows on either side
of the green dot. So the dot served as an indicator that the focus was
achieved. This is not the case anymore. The green dot now lets you know
that exposure information has been calculated, is that correct?

I think so (but perhaps am I wrong)

These questions are posted to Andreas, but any of the others are free to
answer it. I am not disappointed in this mode of operation. I simply want
to understand it better so that I get the best use out of it.

Thanks for any help you folks can provide.

Hi,

For me the improved manual focus is one of the most useful progresses
of the F505V (compared to the F505). It seems that the distance
specification
is accurate. So, especially in extreme low light conditions (where is no
way to
lock for the autofocus) i set the distance, set an suitable shutter time and
the result is great!

 

[Ulysses]

Thank you Jacques.

Yes (reading my "505V distance indicator on manual focusing" post may help).

I read that post, and I have read it again. But the problem is not with the granularity of the focus. While the indicator may not always show the number that we need, it does seem that the focus is VERY finely attuned to the turning of the ring.

But my question is what about situations when the light is so dim that you cannot really see the subject on the LCD? I suppose we are then left to guessing or pulling out a tape measure.

 

[Jacques D'Hondt]

Yes (reading my "505V distance indicator on manual focusing" post may help).

I read that post, and I have read it again. But the problem is not with
the granularity of the focus. While the indicator may not always show the
number that we need, it does seem that the focus is VERY finely attuned
to the turning of the ring.

But my question is what about situations when the light is so dim that
you cannot really see the subject on the LCD? I suppose we are then left
to guessing or pulling out a tape measure.

Yes, I am afraid that's the only solution (and it seems that Andreas has had accurate results with).

Jacques D'Hondt

 

[Ulysses]

It's just that I'm fairly terrible at judging distances with the naked eye. U.S. or metric, it doesn't seem to matter.

I'll keep practicing.

Yes (reading my "505V distance indicator on manual focusing" post may help).

I read that post, and I have read it again. But the problem is not with
the granularity of the focus. While the indicator may not always show the
number that we need, it does seem that the focus is VERY finely attuned
to the turning of the ring.

But my question is what about situations when the light is so dim that
you cannot really see the subject on the LCD? I suppose we are then left
to guessing or pulling out a tape measure.

Yes, I am afraid that's the only solution (and it seems that Andreas has
had accurate results with).

Jacques D'Hondt

 

[Andreas P.]

Hi there Ulysses and Jacques,

Well i see you disscussed it thoroughly. (BTW: Jacques offered to write an
FAQ and i still think this would be very useful and would also touch the
DSC-S70).

Regarding the manual focus. I just did one test and i was really amazed by the result. The light situation was the natural light at 9:00 PM ( so nearly
dark). I put the cam on a tripod, estimated the distance and made a shot
of my Dieffenbachie. One in Auto mode which caused a dark frame and
one in shutter priority with 4 seconds shutter time and the result was great.

With this lightening the LCD display was absolutely useless.

Okay, this was just one distance, one lightening situation, but the result was amzingly good (in my opinion). If there is interest
i will investigate this more systematically and post the results.

Best regards,

Andreas

 

[Ulysses]

Andreas -

Please do post your results (hopefully unretouched). I look forward to your experiments.

One of my next purchases will be a tripod, probably an inexpensive one as it will not get a great amount of use. What do you think? Is it better to spend more money here?

Hi there Ulysses and Jacques,

Well i see you disscussed it thoroughly. (BTW: Jacques offered to write an
FAQ and i still think this would be very useful and would also touch the
DSC-S70).

Regarding the manual focus. I just did one test and i was really amazed
by the result. The light situation was the natural light at 9:00 PM ( so
nearly
dark). I put the cam on a tripod, estimated the distance and made a shot
of my Dieffenbachie. One in Auto mode which caused a dark frame and
one in shutter priority with 4 seconds shutter time and the result was
great.

With this lightening the LCD display was absolutely useless.

Okay, this was just one distance, one lightening situation, but the
result was amzingly good (in my opinion). If there is interest
i will investigate this more systematically and post the results.

Best regards,

Andreas

 

[Andreas P.]

Andreas -

Please do post your results (hopefully unretouched).

Okay, this will take a while (maybe someone is more quickly). I will upload
the original images.

I look forward to
your experiments.

One of my next purchases will be a tripod, probably an inexpensive one as
it will not get a great amount of use. What do you think? Is it better to
spend more money here?

Yes, definately. I have two tripods, one is a cheapo and you can see the

mechanical instability, the other is not a high end one but has a "spirit-level" and it still works good although i have taken it in the zoo or so a lot of times.
I think for 50-100 USD you should reach something okay.

Best regards,

Andreas