Advice on photo technique - sky blown out

[makenaiboy]

Hi all,

I finally got for 450D / xsi. I've taken a few photo's and am overall very happy with the performance. As this is my first SLR i'm still getting used to all of the settings and how things work.

Today I went for a bit of a walk and took these shots.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27970174@N06/

Notice that the sky is over exposed. It was cloudy and the sky was very bright. I'm pretty sure i set the wb to couldy. Also, I used Av mode as I wanted to change the depth of field. Is there anything I can do to take these photo's better?
Thanks

 

[Paul De Bra]

The sky is way brighter than the subjects that are really important in your pictures. No digital camera can cope with this difference because of lack of dynamic range. You could dial in -2EV exposure compensation and then just maybe the sky will be ok but the real subjects of your pictures will be near black.

What you could do is put the camera on tripod, set 2EV exposure bracketing, take 3 shots (one will be -2EV, one 0EV and one +2EV) and then create an HDR picture. This is a bit of work and you may still not like the outcome...

Don't get rid of the camera to try and find another one which will do just fine on scenes like these. No digital camera can do it. (The Fuji S5 comes closest though.)

Hi all,

I finally got for 450D / xsi. I've taken a few photo's and am overall
very happy with the performance. As this is my first SLR i'm still
getting used to all of the settings and how things work.

Today I went for a bit of a walk and took these shots.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27970174@N06/

Notice that the sky is over exposed. It was cloudy and the sky was
very bright. I'm pretty sure i set the wb to couldy. Also, I used Av
mode as I wanted to change the depth of field. Is there anything I
can do to take these photo's better?
Thanks

--
Slowly learning to use the 450D and and the Canon G6.
Public pictures at http://debra.zenfolio.com/ .

 

[brightcolours]

but what is wrong with your lens? What is the haze about? Are you using a cheap filter in front of the lens? or did you smear finger smudges all over the lens?

The auras around brighter areas are not normal, either they are on purpose in post processing (but then you should mention it) or a lens is very in need of a good clen with lens cleaning fluid.

 

[Tawcan]

That haze definitely doesn't look right. Did you post process it to get this effect?

--
http://tawcan.smugmug.com

 

[hopkinsg]

Use AEB and take several shots, then either turn them into a realistic looking HDR image, OR use layer masks and blend them together in Photoshop.

--
Gary Hopkins

 

[Blake Cook]

Partial metering will help. I frequently try to avoid blown bright areas by setting EV to +2/3 or +1 and metering the sky or bright area and then recompose on the scene. It reqires pp but the sky is not blown out.

--
Blake in Vancouver
http://flickr.com/photos/28305360@N00/
Panasonic FZ18x, Canon S70, Canon XTi, 70-200 f/4 IS, 17-55 f/2.8 IS, Tokina 11-
16, Canon 2x TC

 

[Gerrit Smit]

I love the effect / haze on your photos, but are you sure your lens isn't dirty? Fingerprints on the glass?

--
Gerrit

 

[apete2]

use a CPL

 

[Matt Trostel]

Before I'd do HDR, I'd try dialing in some -EV (might need a full 2 stops) and then pull up the shadows in PP. Keep the ISO low if possible to minimize noise in the shadows.

This is also where looking at the in-camera histogram can help. A big spike on the right shows you that you're likely blown the highlights. When you see that, take a couple extra shots, each with a little more -EV until you can move that spike off of the right axis.

 

[imqqmi]

What I usually do is shoot raw, iso 100, and expose for the sky in M mode, then try to darken the sky and brighten the shadows. You can do a quick mock up in photoshop using highlights/shadows (in menu image> adjustments). You can also use luminosity masks with curves to do the same but without the haloing effect.

If the shadows are too noisy, you can shoot 3 bracketed shots, take the +2 and -2 shots, then process the raws so that the +2 gets -2 exposure compensation and the -2 gets +2 EC. This will make them the same-ish. Then blend the shots and do the dynamic range adjustments.

As to the soft focus effect, did you use Vaseline on a uv filter? I don't think it's photoshop work. It can sometimes work but not always.

Hi all,

I finally got for 450D / xsi. I've taken a few photo's and am overall
very happy with the performance. As this is my first SLR i'm still
getting used to all of the settings and how things work.

Today I went for a bit of a walk and took these shots.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27970174@N06/

Notice that the sky is over exposed. It was cloudy and the sky was
very bright. I'm pretty sure i set the wb to couldy. Also, I used Av
mode as I wanted to change the depth of field. Is there anything I
can do to take these photo's better?
Thanks

--
Kind regards
Imqqmi



http://www.pbase.com/imqqmi

 

[makenaiboy]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate all of your comments. I'm not using any PP, probably just cleaner residue on lens. More info below:

What you could do is put the camera on tripod, set 2EV exposure bracketing, > take 3 shots (one will be -2EV, one 0EV and one +2EV) and then > create an > HDR picture. This is a bit of work and you may still not like the outcome...
Don't get rid of the camera to try and find another one which will do
just fine on scenes like these. No digital camera can do it. (The
Fuji S5 comes closest though.)

I was thinking HDR but was hoping not to carry the tripod around if I can avoid it but i can see the value in cases like this.

Not going to swap camera's. You are right though. It's easy to blame the camera. I did a lot of homework over the last couple of months and realise that a lot of these things are a lack of reading the manual (slowly working my way through) and experience.

but what is wrong with your lens? What is the haze about? Are you
using a cheap filter in front of the lens? or did you smear finger
smudges all over the lens?

The auras around brighter areas are not normal, either they are on
purpose in post processing (but then you should mention it) or a lens
is very in need of a good clen with lens cleaning fluid.

Good spot. They don't look right. What has happened is I cleaned my lenses before I went shooting yesterday but there is still residue of the lens cleaner that won't come off even if I wipe it with a piece of clean lens paper. I was planning on asking the question on how to clean them properly. The minimal instructions that came with the kit said to put one to two drops on the lens paper and wipe in a circular motion. Then use a clean lens paper to wipe off but it just doesn't seem to want to come off.

I do have a (cheap?) lens protector by Marumi. I think in this case it was my poor lens cleaning technique, but is it worth getting a better lens protector or taking it off altogether. I'm pretty careful with my gear and don't knock it around.

Partial metering will help. I frequently try to avoid blown bright
areas by setting EV to +2/3 or +1 and metering the sky or bright area
and then recompose on the scene. It reqires pp but the sky is not
blown out.

Do you have a preference on Which mode do you shoot in? Had a look in the manual about this. There doesn't appear to be much info on how to meter something and recompose. Are you able to let me know how you do this?

Before I'd do HDR, I'd try dialing in some -EV (might need a full 2
stops) and then pull up the shadows in PP. Keep the ISO low if
possible to minimize noise in the shadows.

I'll try this. Ta.

What I usually do is shoot raw, iso 100, and expose for the sky in M
mode, then try to darken the sky and brighten the shadows. You can do
a quick mock up in photoshop using highlights/shadows (in menu
image> adjustments). You can also use luminosity masks with curves to
do the same but without the haloing effect.

This a good tip. I will also try this. To make sure I understand this, basically I put the camera in M mode, then increase the shutter speed so the EV goes down a couple of steps and the sky is properly exposed?

P.S. Nice shots!

 

[Pedro Moreira]

Shoot RAW, use CPL and ND Grad and you´re done!
Check my landscape gallery at my web site and see what you can get doing that.

--
Pedro Moreira

http://www.pedroxmoreira.com

 

[makenaiboy]

Shoot RAW, use CPL and ND Grad and you´re done!
Check my landscape gallery at my web site and see what you can get
doing that.

If i use a CPL won't that underexpose the main subject (in this case the temple)?

 

[KS Chew]

Use exposure lock (EL). Please read the manual.

Alternatively, set to Av mode. Select whatever aperture you like. Half press the shutter and take note of the shutter speed the camera chooses for you.

Then, change to M mode. Set the aperture and shutter speed as in previous step. Recompose and shoot.

Partial metering will help. I frequently try to avoid blown bright
areas by setting EV to +2/3 or +1 and metering the sky or bright area
and then recompose on the scene. It reqires pp but the sky is not
blown out.

Do you have a preference on Which mode do you shoot in? Had a look in
the manual about this. There doesn't appear to be much info on how to
meter something and recompose. Are you able to let me know how you do
this?

 

[seri_art]

I do have a (cheap?) lens protector by Marumi.

Why put a cheap anything in front of your lens? If you must put a filter in front of your lens (I prefer to put nothing over my lens), get a good one that will degrade your image the least amount possible. Some searching will give you recommendations.

 

[Pedro Moreira]

No it wont, it will reduce reflections and increase color saturation, which would get a nicer sky with better contrast between the sky and the clouds

Shoot RAW, use CPL and ND Grad and you´re done!
Check my landscape gallery at my web site and see what you can get
doing that.

If i use a CPL won't that underexpose the main subject (in this case
the temple)?

--
Pedro Moreira

http://www.pedroxmoreira.com

 

[amar_pajero]

what i do in these situations is ISO200 + evaluative metering in TV mode.

Then try to focus on some medium dark area , keep the button half pressed and then compose the image and finally click..

always work for me.

Is it Japan....i could not find any quotes.

 

[imqqmi]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate all of your comments. I'm not using any
PP, probably just cleaner residue on lens. More info below:

Be careful with fluids and only use it when there's something really nasty stuck on the front lens element that won't budge with a micro fiber cleaning cloth. If you use the wrong fluids you risk damaging the coatings on the lens (which could explain the soft focus effect and the fact you can't wipe it off). I hope you didn't do any permanent damage.

I've noticed you used the kitlens wide open. It's better to stop down at least one stop for better dof and sharpness.

I do have a (cheap?) lens protector by Marumi. I think in this case
it was my poor lens cleaning technique, but is it worth getting a
better lens protector or taking it off altogether. I'm pretty careful
with my gear and don't knock it around.

You'd do better to buy a lens hood, that will protect the front element. Cheap UV filters introduce more flare, ghosting and sometimes ugly bokeh (background blur) and softness. Unless the conditions are particularly dusty or risk of sea spray, I'd remove any uv filters even on L glass (or rather especially).

What I usually do is shoot raw, iso 100, and expose for the sky in M
mode, then try to darken the sky and brighten the shadows. You can do
a quick mock up in photoshop using highlights/shadows (in menu
image> adjustments). You can also use luminosity masks with curves to
do the same but without the haloing effect.

This a good tip. I will also try this. To make sure I understand
this, basically I put the camera in M mode, then increase the shutter
speed so the EV goes down a couple of steps and the sky is properly
exposed?

It depends on how you want to meter for the sky. In M mode let the needle settle just below +2 by adjusting shutterspeed, iso and aperture.

You can do an exposure lock using Av mode, set ec to +2 while pointing the camera at the sky. It's basically the same thing. You'll need to do this for every consecutive shot. In M mode you can just keep shooting unless the light changes or you shoot something without the sky.

For bracketing shots, you can see 3 needles in the EC bar, try to set the lowest exposure so that the darkest frame is exposed for the sky usually below 0 EC when pointing/metering at the subject. The brightest frame will give a +4 overexposed sky and should contain enough detail in the shadows.

P.S. Nice shots!

Thanks!
--
Kind regards
Imqqmi



http://www.pbase.com/imqqmi

 

[Keithgg]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate all of your comments. I'm not using any
PP, probably just cleaner residue on lens. More info below:

Clipped

Good spot. They don't look right. What has happened is I cleaned my
lenses before I went shooting yesterday but there is still residue of
the lens cleaner that won't come off even if I wipe it with a piece
of clean lens paper. I was planning on asking the question on how to
clean them properly. The minimal instructions that came with the kit
said to put one to two drops on the lens paper and wipe in a circular
motion. Then use a clean lens paper to wipe off but it just doesn't
seem to want to come off.

I have never found a lens tissue that I have liked, for the above reasons.
They left residue on my lenses forty years ago, and they do now.

I used to use a well-boiled cotton handkerchief, but happily you can now buy a Microfibre Lens Cleaning Cloth.

I would recommend using a blower before wiping the lens in order to remove any loose particles that might scratch the coating.

If there are marks that won't come off easily then I breathe on the lens first, without actually wetting it. This is no different to taking my kit out on a damp day and getting condensation forming.

There are, of course, lots of other proprietary cleaning methods. Try your local photographic shop.

 

[Port Royal Dad]

A couple of thoughts-

1. Put your camera in Manual Mode

2. Think in terms of TWO planes of lighting...the foreground and the background.

Regarding the background, purposefully point your camera at the sky and meter for slightly underexposure. It's as simple as that...you'll get a blue sky. Keep your eye on the EC needle that'll be bouncing left and right!

Regarding the foreground, use the speedlight flash to highlite your subject. Ensure that you have the high speed sync turned on so that your cameras flash will sync at shutter speeds greater than 1/200 or 1/250... The flash adjustment is the FEC if you are in ETTL. If you don't use highspeed sync, your slow shutter speeds on a bright day will surely wash out the bright sky!

Here's a great explanation for using highspeed sync, and leaving it on...

http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/view.asp?articleID=1026

Anyway, what you want to do is very easy. Meter for the sky, and use your flash to highlite the subject.

Here's my example- 30D, 24-105L, 580EX. I purposefully metered the sky (setting the aperture and shutter manually) and then used my flash to just "kiss" the bride... the sun was an absolute killer over my left shoulder. Use my flash to fill in for shadows.



And here are two more examples regarding highspeed sync...

Highspeed sync on, metered on the sky



Highspeed sync off, sky over exposed...



Hope this helps some...my 2 cents worth...

r/Mike

--
B.R.A.S.S. (Breathe, Relax, Aim, Sight, Squeeze)