Is this dust?

lawmarks

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Hi all,

Do you all think the two large spots near the top of this pic are dust spots? If so, what can be done? If not, what do you think they are?

Thanks,

larry

 
Sorry, I meant to post this in the 350/400 forum since I took it with a 350 but any answers you all have would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Larry
 
You can fix this picture in your editing software.

However, you need to learn to clean your sensor. Google "Copperhill" for the complete story. It is really a pretty easy process, takes all of five minutes if you are mechanically inclined and have "good hands".

I only had to clean my 10D and 20D a couple of times a year (this all depends on how much you shoot, of course). I've had my 40D such a short time that I have no data on it.

Good luck!
--
Dale53
http://www.pbase.com/dale53
 
Sure it is dust. Clean your sensor! It is a minor chore that is as guaranteed as having to clean the toilet bowl in your home. How often? It depends. I just clean my sensors when they get spotty enough to annoy me. You sensor is ripe for cleaning. Just do it.

I use the Copperhill method, and cheap kits based upon the same logic. It works fine for me, but you have to be comfortable with your own choice.

One thing is certain though. You need to clean your sensor....

--
Voyager
 
Yes it looks like dust. Usually shows up at higher f stops. It may come off on its own over time, or you can go to the menu and find 'Sensor Cleaning', then 'Clean Now', it cleans longer than the auto clean performed on power up/down.

I have also seen ppl talk about spots from the lubricant off the mirror or shutter assembly. If this is the case, then the sensor may need to be cleaned. There was a link to a site that talked about methods to clean the sensor, but the search is down, couldn't find it.

--

Any man who brings a camera to a bachelor party may be legally killed and eaten by his fellow partygoers!

EdRubin
 
Another, easier method of ridding your sensor of dust is to use the Arctic Butterfly, by Visible Dust. It is a dry method, not quite as intimidating as some people find the Copperhill method, but it is quite costly. You can check it out at visibledust.com.

Bob N.
 
I guess if you have a 350D then your only option is to clean the sensor manually!!
--

Any man who brings a camera to a bachelor party may be legally killed and eaten by his fellow partygoers!

EdRubin
 
Yes, you can fix it in post processing depending on your program, by cloning or using the healing brush.

And/or you can clean the sensor. There are numerous threads and articles on the best way to do this. But it's generally agreed that before trying anything that involves touching the sensor (actually not the sensor but the low pass filter I think it's called); get a blower and gently blow while holding the camera upside down. Best to get a blower dedicated for the purpose, they don't cost much at any good photographic supply shop.

If that doesn't work, there are other 'dry' and 'wet' approaches eg Arctic Butterfly and Copperhill (?). I've read up on them but have never used them.

Alternatively you can get Canon to clean the sensor for you. But dust is a part of camera life and Canon do charge for this. From all reports you there is no guarantee the camera will come back a lot cleaner than when you left it with them, although bad reports are likely to have been exaggerated as always.
 
Thanks for all the answers. I don't exactly have the steadiest hands, and after reading that Copperhill page it sounds like I may not be a good candidate for self sensor cleaning.

Would the dust removal system on the 400D or 40d take care of problems like this or would the dust still need to be manually cleaned?

Thanks,

Larry
 
Don't be wetting up your sensor if there's no need too. Use a dry method of dust removal first. This is usally all it takes to remove dust bunnies.

I use an unconventional, and inexpensive, but effective method (for me at least), of dry dusting. You can research dry methods, or ask others what they prefer.

I'm sure there are plenty of overly priced sensor cleaning kits out there to spend money on that will get the job done. :)

--
bryan
--------
Oak & Acorn
http://www.flickr.com/photos/oakandacorns/sets/

G9 ISO 3200 Gallery: http://bryanw.zenfolio.com/p706413854/

New Zenfolio Gallery: http://bryanw.zenfolio.com/

Canon G9 Gallery: http://bryanw.zenfolio.com/f836894562/

 
Would the dust removal system on the 400D or 40d take care of
problems like this or would the dust still need to be manually
cleaned?
Some would say yes, others would say no. For me - it's debatable. I haven't seen any dust issues with my 40D so far, but then again, I'm not looking for any issues either. I don't think the dust removal system on either the XTi or 40D works as well as Canon would like people to believe. However, it's there though, so take it for what it's worth. Eventually, any of these cameras are going to require manual cleaning, there's no real way to get around it.

--
bryan
--------
Oak & Acorn
http://www.flickr.com/photos/oakandacorns/sets/

G9 ISO 3200 Gallery: http://bryanw.zenfolio.com/p706413854/

New Zenfolio Gallery: http://bryanw.zenfolio.com/

Canon G9 Gallery: http://bryanw.zenfolio.com/f836894562/

 
If you don't mind me asking, what dry method do you use? I have already tried blowing it out with a Giotto rocket, but apparently that did not do the trick.

Thanks!
 
I've read a lot in the past three weeks since getting my first DSLR, Canon 40D. I've read bits and pieces about the sensor cleaning process because I know it is inevitable. However, in my findings no one has ever said "DO NOT" use an aerosol can air cleaner, like the "Kensington Dust Blaster" made primarily for computers. Is there a reason aerosol compressed air cleaners should not be used?
 
Is there a
reason aerosol compressed air cleaners should not be used?
I wouldn't use it.
The air blast can lodge particles into hard, if not impossible, to clean places.

Also, IMO it is also possible that the compressed air's sudden drop in pressure may cool it down enough and possibly throw moisture into the camera (even if the aerosol is composed of very dry air, the ambient air does have some water vapor. The cool air coming out of the aerosol will cool down the uncontrolled-humidity air inside your camera, with possible condensation as a result).

A milder air source, like the "Rocket" blower, is a better choice IMO.

--
Best regards,

Bruno Lobo.



http://www.pbase.com/brunobl
 
I believe it says in the manual to NOT use any type of aerosol spray (even if it is only air) to clean the inside of the camera. I think it did give a reason, but I can't remember right now.

Bannor
 
Is there a reason aerosol compressed air cleaners should not be used?
The best reason is that aerosols will often "spit" a bit of propellant, especially if the can has been agitated or shaken at all, and this propellant may land on the sensor, creating a mess that may be difficult to clean up completely.

Bob N.
 
I've read a lot in the past three weeks since getting my first DSLR,
Canon 40D. I've read bits and pieces about the sensor cleaning
process because I know it is inevitable. However, in my findings no
one has ever said "DO NOT" use an aerosol can air cleaner, like the
"Kensington Dust Blaster" made primarily for computers. Is there a
reason aerosol compressed air cleaners should not be used?
Good grief!...don't even think about using compressed air or any gas! Like others mentioned, it's cold and condensation is a problem. Then, actual droplets of propellant can come flying out if you're not careful and then you have spots that are wicked tough to remove if ever. And as mentioned, dust can get thrown places where you'll never reach, worse yet, a big 'chunk' might lodge in a delicate hinge. Finally, those things spurt 'air' at a good speed. Believe it or not, there are delicate moving parts inside the camera. Do you want to risk throwing something out of alignment, even by a fraction of a millimeter? Admittedly this is all worse case scenario stuff but why risk it when there are so many good options. There is always the option too if you're squeemish about it, to send it to Canon for a good cleaning of the sensor and entire interior. Only send it to your local friendly camera shop if you really, really trust them. I prefer to trust Canon. They break it, they fix it.
--
I am as ignorant as ever, and wiser than I've ever been.
 
Another, easier method of ridding your sensor of dust is to use the
Arctic Butterfly, by Visible Dust. It is a dry method, not quite as
intimidating as some people find the Copperhill method, but it is
quite costly. You can check it out at visibledust.com.

Bob N.
That's what I use. I cleaned the sensor on my 40D for the first time the other day. (First time I had cleaned any sensor!!) It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. I've going to order the visibledust liquid stuff next and the magnifying glass.
 
Hi all,

Do you all think the two large spots near the top of this pic are
dust spots? If so, what can be done? If not, what do you think they
are?
Hello Larry,

I have a theory:

Shoot a couple of pictures of a white surface using the same lens, one with high f-value and one wide open.

If the dust specs are sharper at higher f-value then it is probalbly dust on your lens. Review this at full size on your computer. If the look of them remain the same it is likely on your sensor. Dust on the sensor should not be sharper or blurrier if I am correct.

Should my theory be off someone will probablly chime in!-) Let me know if you test this as it would be a nice way of testing how much dust is on the lens and how much is on the sensor. I'll test this weekend.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Knut
Thanks,

larry
 
I use a blower first, and if that doesn't work, I go in with a dry Q-tip.

First though, I shine a bright light into the chamber and try to see the offending dust. I can usually find it based on where it is in my images. If I don't see it I don't 'swipe' it, unless I have a REALLY good idea where it is, and it does take some looking to find it. But, a bright light and moving the camera around a bit at different angles will usually do the trick and reveal the dust.

I take a new, dry, sterile Q-tip, blow it off real good, and just barely brush at the dust, not really even touching the sensor, except with the fibers on the end of the Q-tip.

More often then not, if the blower doesn't work, the Q-tip does the trick.

Now, for a huge amount of dust, and for really stuck on particles, blowing and then ultimately a wet method might work better/faster. But the spots you've shown in your images don't appear to be that serious, and for me, would only warrant a dry method, unless they're stuck on.

Good luck, and sorry for late response. I just got up a bit ago. :)
If you don't mind me asking, what dry method do you use? I have
already tried blowing it out with a Giotto rocket, but apparently
that did not do the trick.

Thanks!
--
bryan
--------
Oak & Acorn
http://www.flickr.com/photos/oakandacorns/sets/

G9 ISO 3200 Gallery: http://bryanw.zenfolio.com/p706413854/

New Zenfolio Gallery: http://bryanw.zenfolio.com/

Canon G9 Gallery: http://bryanw.zenfolio.com/f836894562/

 

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