mono flash questions

mimbull

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Hello all

Would some one help me out with a couple of questions I have about mono flash units? What are the issues with trigger voltage? Can a camera be ruined trying to trigger a flash with the wrong trigger voltage?

Is it possible to get high sync speeds like 1/500 of a second with an older camera like a Canon 10D.
 
Hello all
Would some one help me out with a couple of questions I have about
mono flash units? What are the issues with trigger voltage? Can a
camera be ruined trying to trigger a flash with the wrong trigger
voltage?
Yes. However, most modern units have a sync voltage of 5 volts or so which is safe. Some older units you're talking hundreds of volts, not good!
Is it possible to get high sync speeds like 1/500 of a second with
an older camera like a Canon 10D.
No.
-Kent
 
What would be some options for getting a faster sync speed, other than switching to Nikon. Do some of the newer canon cameras support higher speeds.

Would a longer flash duration. Allow me to use a high shutter speed and open my aperture wider?
 
You've expressed a couple of misconceptions there.

An electronic flash is, practically speaking for most purposes, instantaneous.

First, the sync speed is dependent on the camera, not the flash (excepting certain proprietary small flash units that operate on a different principle). It's a matter of the highest speed at which the shutter of that camera exposes the entire sensor/film area at once to capture that (practically) instantaneous flash over the entire image.

For older 35mm film cameras with focal plane shutters, that speed was as low as 1/30 second (although most were 1/60 second). At higher shutter speeds, the focal plane shutter exposes the film/sensor as a slit moving across the film/sensor surface, exposing it piecemeal.

Larger format cameras with focal plane shutters had quite long sync speeds because the shutter curtains had to travel so much farther across the film. Smaller sensors allow for higher speeds simply because the shutter curtains have less distance to travel.

Cameras with leaf shutters expose the film/sensor all at once at any speed.

'Way back in the day of incandescent (foil-filled) flash bulbs, there were bulbs designed to burn a quite long time (as long as a 1/30 of a second), burning as long as it took a focal plane shutter to race across the film. Canon and Nikon have some relatively new small electronic flash units that do something similar, by "stuttering" the flash for a longer period of time.

Because the electronic flash commits all its exposure without regard to the actual speed of the shutter, the shutter speed has no role in controlling the exposure (as long as you use a speed long enough to expose the entire sensor/film when the flash makes its pulse). The only camera setting that matters for electronic flash exposure is the aperture. If you want to use a wider aperture, you must attenuate the flash power in some way--reduce the flash power setting, move the flash farther from the subject, place neutral density filtration in front of the flash, or bounce the flash off other surfaces. Most of these do, of course, change the quality of the light as well.

TANSTAAFL rules photography. There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch.
--
RDKirk
'TANSTAAFL: The only unbreakable rule in photography.'
 
Would some one help me out with a couple of questions I have about
mono flash units? What are the issues with trigger voltage? Can a
camera be ruined trying to trigger a flash with the wrong trigger
voltage?
Depends.... check your manual for your specific camera, to see what maximum flash sync voltage is permissible for it. My Nikon D70S manual says 250 volts maximum, but the Canons are said to say 6 volts maximum. Here is a web page about the subject, showing details for many old flash units.
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

Most modern flash units are in this acceptable range of around 5 volts, but many older flash units (20 years???) could be a couple hundred volts.

It is very simple to measure this with a voltmeter - just turn the flash on, and measure voltage at the shoe center contact to the metal flash foot.

Shorting the two points with a screw driver blade will fire the flash, as a way to confirm that you are measuring the correct two points. Shorting those two points is what the camera flash sync does to fire the flash, and this open circuit voltage is the voltage of concern.

If it is a high voltage flash on a low voltage camera, that is a problem which could damage the camera. But you can still add a shoe adapter, like the Wein SafeSync, which limits the voltage seen by the camera, to make the old flash be safe, if that adapter is used. However the money is likely better invested in a more modern flash.
 

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