The 5D does the Paria Plateau

I really think the 16-25 is a very strong lens. This is really
true from about 18mm and longer. At 16mm, it does very well if you
are willing to sacrifice a bit of center sharpness and stop down to
f18 or so. At that point, the corners really come into their own.

I am hoping the Mk II of this lens will make the difference and
allow f8-f11 shooting this would give sharp sharp images from 4'
to infinity.

Steven
Let me preface by saying that I feel intimidated by your reputation (heck, someone wants to take a master class from you) for the purposes of engaging you in the following conversation. So, please accept this in the spirit in which it was intended.

I don't use apertures past f11 which may be partially the cause of my opinions of certain Canon WA lenses. (A seemingly educated fellow in another thread helped me determine that the max aperture for the 5D before diffraction limiting is f12.64 for 13x19 prints. I suppose I could use f13 since the effects would be small. I hope he is still around when I step up to a 17" wide printer. :) ) At 13x19, I can see the difference between f11 & f16 whether or not any other person casually viewing the print can.

Where the subject matter in the frame is entirely at infinity (like at the Rim of the GC), and I don't see how I could avoid soft edges at f11 with a 16-35 (@ 20-24mm).

Having owned this lens & the 17-40, I know the 16-35 is the better of the two overall.

Believe me when I say that I am rooting for the very thing that you hope for.
 
'cos I will like to direct others to this thread whenever some clown decides to bring up the shortcomings of full frame. :)

-------------------------------------------
See the colors of my world in:
thw.smugmug.com
 
Thanks for the info above, Steven--very valuable in guiding attempts with the 16-35. And now two more questions, if you're willing. First, since you seem to have the 1Ds Mk II and were operating out of a vehicle, not carrying it long distances on your back, why did you prefer the 5D? And second, you wrote above of the technique of reducing contrast and boosting saturation in PP, and I wondered whether you actually shrank the histogram to something shorter than 0-255, or whether you simply did highlight recovery and reduction of blacks until there was no clipping, but still exploited the full range? And then I'm guessing that the saturation boost was fairly subtle: your colors are stunning and vivid but don't scream at all. They seem natural. What sorts of amounts?
--
Ellen Z
 
Thanks for the kind comments.
Steven,

1. Did you use any hyper-focal distance settings or Polarizer?
Yes (hyper-focal) and No (polarizer).
2. I live in Los Angeles and would go to Arizona to take a master
class from you, do you ever give workshops?
In time. Perhaps. I am still learning and have the good fortune to have renewed an old friendship with a very accomplished pro that takes me out to some great places. I learn allot when shooting with him.

Steven

--
---
Spring 2007 (Paria Plateau):
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/images_spring_2007

2006 White Sands and Bisti Workshop
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/white_sands_and_bisti

 
Thanks for the info above, Steven--very valuable in guiding
attempts with the 16-35. And now two more questions, if you're
willing. First, since you seem to have the 1Ds Mk II and were
I have a 1D Mk II:-)
operating out of a vehicle, not carrying it long distances on your
back, why did you prefer the 5D? And second, you wrote above of
The 5D simple has more of dem sweet pixels. If I had a 1Ds Mk II, the 5D wouldd have been in the bag:-)
the technique of reducing contrast and boosting saturation in PP,
and I wondered whether you actually shrank the histogram to
something shorter than 0-255, or whether you simply did highlight
recovery and reduction of blacks until there was no clipping, but
If you look at most HDR images, they do not exploit the full range and are infact, somewhat lacking in contrast. It is the nature of HDR. To pick up the needed contrast to make the image pop, however, you can boost the saturation of the image. This gives contrast between colors (meaning you have the colors there to start with. Sy magic minute or so at sunset/sunrise) and not the luminance channels.
still exploited the full range? And then I'm guessing that the
saturation boost was fairly subtle: your colors are stunning and
More than you might think:-)
vivid but don't scream at all. They seem natural. What sorts of
amounts?
40% or so. Butt the contrast was WAY down. They balance out. Remember, this is only on the one image:

http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/image/76404784



Steven

--
---
Spring 2007 (Paria Plateau):
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/images_spring_2007

2006 White Sands and Bisti Workshop
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/white_sands_and_bisti

 
Steven Noyes wrote:

I don't use apertures past f11 which may be partially the cause of
my opinions of certain Canon WA lenses. (A seemingly educated
fellow in another thread helped me determine that the max aperture
for the 5D before diffraction limiting is f12.64 for 13x19 prints.
I suppose I could use f13 since the effects would be small. I hope
he is still around when I step up to a 17" wide printer. :) ) At
13x19, I can see the difference between f11 & f16 whether or not
any other person casually viewing the print can.
I agree that diffraction does enter into things but so does DOF and corner sharpness. In an ideal world, I would be shooting at f8 but the DOF (even at 16mm) isn't great enough for many near/far subjects in landscape. This means I HAVE to go to f14 to f16. So in this case, I am willing to sacrifice a small amount (and it is a small amount given the weak AA filter of the 5D) of center sharpness to pick up substantial corner sharpness and DOF.
Where the subject matter in the frame is entirely at infinity (like
at the Rim of the GC), and I don't see how I could avoid soft edges
at f11 with a 16-35 (@ 20-24mm).
I don't tend to take those shots as much (and will be stitching with the 85mm anyway:-) unless the light is just screaming. You will still tend to have a foreground in most really good images. Since most of the soft-edge issue is simply flatness of focus, you can take multiple shots (focus bracket) at f8 and:

http://www.janrik.net/ptools/ExtendedFocusPano12/index.html

cool tricks available.
Having owned this lens & the 17-40, I know the 16-35 is the better
of the two overall.

Believe me when I say that I am rooting for the very thing that you
hope for.
I am hoping the 16-35mm Mk II will allow shooting 2 stops wider. That will be very worth it to me.

Steven

--
---
Spring 2007 (Paria Plateau):
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/images_spring_2007

2006 White Sands and Bisti Workshop
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/white_sands_and_bisti

 
Zounds! 40%, eh? Oh boy I'm going to crank up the saturation on all my pics and then they'll look like yours, right? Seriously, that image is the one I was squinting at, trying to figure out if it had the full dynamic range or not, not just out of curiosity but also because it is hauntingly beautiful--there's something remarkable about the light. I didn't import it and test it, but I imagined it did touch both ends of the full range, if only in the tiniest spots. You're saying it doesn't. This is fascinating. A lot to think about. Thank you, Steven.
If you look at most HDR images, they do not exploit the full range
and are infact, somewhat lacking in contrast. It is the nature of
HDR. To pick up the needed contrast to make the image pop,
however, you can boost the saturation of the image. This gives
contrast between colors (meaning you have the colors there to start
with. Sy magic minute or so at sunset/sunrise) and not the
luminance channels.
still exploited the full range? And then I'm guessing that the
saturation boost was fairly subtle: your colors are stunning and
More than you might think:-)
vivid but don't scream at all. They seem natural. What sorts of
amounts?
40% or so. Butt the contrast was WAY down. They balance out.
Remember, this is only on the one image:

http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/image/76404784



Steven
--
Ellen Z
 
Very nice images. I'm leaving for that area next week & plan to shoot for at least 2 weeks. I will be using my brand new 5D. Was glad to hear your take on light fall-off (or lack of same). Hope I do as well as you did.
 
Stephen, looking at your galleries over that last two years, I am ready to consider you as the "Digital Ansel Adams of the Southwest". Your galleries are awesome. You and Melanie should do a coffee table book together.

Do to your numerous threads and suggestions on the Canon 45TS and the 16-35, which I now have, on my next trip to Sturgis I will spend a week trying to get reasonably close to your work doing the Badlands.

Thanks for your contributions.
 
I will have a chance to shot them this spring if all goes as planned. I was there once but was clueless on what I was doing (back when I was still shooting film and not doing that well with it). I think I could improve on it this time.

Steven
Stephen, looking at your galleries over that last two years, I am
ready to consider you as the "Digital Ansel Adams of the
Southwest". Your galleries are awesome. You and Melanie should do
a coffee table book together.

Do to your numerous threads and suggestions on the Canon 45TS and
the 16-35, which I now have, on my next trip to Sturgis I will
spend a week trying to get reasonably close to your work doing the
Badlands.

Thanks for your contributions.
--
---
Spring 2007 (Paria Plateau):
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/images_spring_2007

2006 White Sands and Bisti Workshop
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/white_sands_and_bisti

 

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