100 person group shot..

triple

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I've done small groups before, maybe like 20 people. I did a couple 50 person groups, but that was in broad daylight.

This is indoors, big group, and I have 2 strobes to help me out.

Anything I should be aware of dealing with a group this size?
 
Im presuming they are adults!

Where are you taking them? A school hall? In an office?

If taking in a school hall or similar you could use benches or chair to get a formal look of evenly spaced people at say three diffferent heights (seated, standing and standing on bench/chair). If you want 'informal' then you need to have some way of getting high enough to see everyone.

With two strobes say shooting through white brollies you would need say Bowens 500 heads at least for each. Make sure you dont leave them too far apart to cover the whole group that you get a dark spot in the middle.

A formal group will need less depth of field than an informal group because of the greater distances.

Having said that i once created a group of 100 from two carefully shot groups of 50 and stitched them together (one set of 50 were unable to appear at the same time as the other).

Hope thats of some help! If you have more specific questions please post them.

Mike
 
I think 500 Ws is not enough. If you have a softbox use the edges of the light. That way you can give the whole group equal light. Use F11 at least for enough DOF.

--
Think Different!
 
Lots of good info already. Add this in.

Before you shoot, determine the print sizes you will need, and then shape the group to fit the frame.

TWO PROBLEMS...

1/ it makes no sense to have a couple of wide rows, and lots of enmpty space above3 the people, and in the foreground in front of them. But if the print is going to be, say, 4 x 12 inches, you'll be OK.

2/ with 35mm film and most digital SLR cameras, the full frame enlarges to 8x12, not 8x10. So if you want 8x10 prints, make sure there

's empty space at the sides of the frame, so you can cut off two inches when making 8x10 prints.

Another advantage of shooting from up high is that the angles of the flash mean that the front row and back row are closer to the flash than when the flash is lower.

This matters in regard to falloff of the light from the front row to the back row.

The farther the flash is from the group, the less the falloff is. But, of course, the less light hits the group, too. So with big groups, lots of power is important.

And, of course, do you just want to line these folks up, or do you want to arrange them in some form... old guys in a group and young women in a group, or gold-winners in a group and silver-winners in a group, etc., etc.

Outdoors, be really careful of overhangs. I once spent hours retouching a photo someone had taken with the back row in the shande of a tree and the front row out in the daylight.
 
Get up high. Use a ladder or somesuch. It makes composing a LOT
easier. I once did a group of 340 people from the top of a
forklift.
Only 340? :-)

Obviously, this was done outdoors, so the lighting was easy. I simply prayed for overcast. Big softbox. Indoors, it depends on the space... if possible, try bouncing the strobes off the ceiling, one on either side and to the front of the mob, er, group. As Lee suggested, consider renting more powerful lighting. Do some test shots at the location if you can. If you can pose them on bleachers, even lighting will be easier since the depth will be flatter. 100 people is probably towards the upper limit for a posed shot, but you can do it. The alternative is to define boundaries, and form a cluster. I used orange cones and removed them before the shot. I had four assistants, and radios. You won't need to go that far...

The collage that I created illustrates the aspect issues that BAK referred to.

 
Although I am not a pro, buy back in December, 2005 I did take a company portrait of my co-workers. I also had questions and got a lot of answers on this forum. We had 104 total. I was up an a scissor lift about 25 feet with a Canon 10D, 28-105 f1.3-5.6 at 35mm, f5.6, ISO 400 with a 550EX flash bouncing off the white ceiling, and 550EX slave shot a couple feet away directly at the group. I took 6 shots in succession, waiting for the flashes to re-charge. I only had 2-3 minutes to take the shot. I had taped a trapazoid shape on the floor for people to group in to.

It worked OK, but I really needed more power, flash wise. I also added 5 people afterward. Here is the shot:
Full-size: http://www.pbase.com/ericsorensen/image/55084803/original



I did it again back in Dember 2006. This time with a 5D, 24-70L and a 550EX on a flash bracket pointing directly at everyone. Manual, F9, 1/80s, ISO640, 28mm. Flash at almost full-power. Again, took 6-7 shots. Added 5 people afterward in photoshop and put in that cheesy background and stage. People were happy and I sold a bunch of copies of this one:

Full-size: http://www.pbase.com/image/75651239/original



Good luck! You will do better with more flash power. Remember to get up high and take several shots. Do test shots with people at each corner of your marked off area to see if they are in the DOF, too.

--



Bossier City, Louisiana
http://www.pbase.com/ericsorensen
 

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