Weak flash? Try the Sto-fen solution...

Brett St Pierre

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.. it occured to me that a number of (generally newer to Pentax, but not always) people are complaining of under exposure with their 360 and 540FGZ flashes, I don't but I use the Sigma EF 500 DG Super so assumed it was that. Then tonight I was reminded of the fact that I use a Sto-fen OmniBounce on my flash virtually 100% of the time - it has the effect of flooding more light around the room and when bouncing (use this position outdoors for fill flash) it at least partially fills in the shadows that would otherwise be effected from bouncing off a ceiling.

The other effect is it reduces the chance of under exposure, at least with the EF 500 DG Super. Why? I am not sure if it is affecting the Pentax P-TTL system to give a different reading or if its because the Sto-fen forces more flash power it throws light in other directions, filling the room - some of which is wasted.

I am not saying this is THE answer, just an idea people might like to try to get a different result from their P-TTL flash. http://www.stofen.com/

The following is not are (no kidding!) - just a couple of examples, one more extreme than the other (I can prove it over and over again but sometimes up close the Stofen gives over exposure - often I have to pull the exposure back a bit but that is easier then the opposite). See the way light is filling in under the toy garage with the Sto-fen even though it is bounced of the ceiling.

K10D + EF500 DG Super - Bounced but NO Sto-fen



With Sto-fen (arguably over exposed)



No Sto-fen (not bad?)



With Sto-fen (better?)



Regards,

--
Brett
http://www.pbase.com/shreder



The Journey is the Thing
 
G'day Brett

Is that anything like the Lumiquest Big bounce, if you know it?

andrew
 
Ooops. Sorry. Had a look at your link. I have one of what you have, and yes, they do a fantastic job of negating shadows. I've always found though, that it takes a little bit of fiddling with the angle of the dangle, so to speak, before you get the right exposure - but then it works a treat!

Thankyou digital

andrew
 
Ooops. Sorry. Had a look at your link. I have one of what you have,
and yes, they do a fantastic job of negating shadows. I've always
found though, that it takes a little bit of fiddling with the angle
of the dangle, so to speak, before you get the right exposure - but
then it works a treat!

Thankyou digital
Yes Andrew, digital is the best thing for flash photography due to the variable nature of results I have always experienced.

The aim of my post was for those who get consistent under-exposure with flash, MAY get some benefit form a Sto-Fen.

Most photojournalists use one for snapping people in non-studio situations as it gives them sof sill flash options. A Sto-fen is not designed to be used directly ona subject. Always bounced but even some pro photogs get it wrong.

--
Brett
http://www.pbase.com/shreder



The Journey is the Thing
 
Thats interesting that you say its not meant to be used in direct flash - why not? I would think it would soften the light a bit to not be so harsh in a direct flash situation.

I've been thinking of getting one for my 540 for exactly that purpose - maybe I need to do some more research into their purpose.

Thx
 
Thats interesting that you say its not meant to be used in direct
flash - why not? I would think it would soften the light a bit to
not be so harsh in a direct flash situation.

I've been thinking of getting one for my 540 for exactly that
purpose - maybe I need to do some more research into their purpose.
I didn't realise either until I started watching press photographers (a lot of whom use Sto-fen) and saw that many of them point the flash up at 90% or angle. So then I started checking around in the pro forum here a couple of years ago and found at that is certainly the usage. Sto-fen allude to it in their FAQ http://www.stofen.com/FAQ/index.htm

Remember though it can still be used outdoors like this as the idea of the Sto-fen is to throw the light in many directions, more flsh power will be used but outdoors some will go forward for fill flash. If you want to, shoot straight with the flash un-tilted. Break the 'rules' :-) The P-TTL system will work it out mostly and I said in the OP, you MAY get a better flash exposure as well.

Regards

--
Brett
http://www.pbase.com/shreder



The Journey is the Thing
 
Just checked the Sto-fen site and they are saying that the flash should be set at a 45 degree angle rather than straight on. The 45 degree angle they say wraps the subject in soft light and eliminates harsh shadows.

Thanks for reminding me that I want one for my Pentax 540 flash...a Sto-fen is much handier and lighter than the Gary Fong Lightsphere (looks like a piece of tupper ware) that I use when shooting portraits indoors. The Lightsphere does an even better job than the Sto-fen...more like a portrait lighting setup but it is really to big and heavy to carry around.

Best regards

Leo
--
Pentax K10D...JUST the very best!
mitch
 
The Sto-fen Omni Bounce is a great product.
I've been using them for years.

When used in the bounce position the underside of the Sto-fen throws light forward towards the subject and you get the effect of using two lights. (a soft direct and a broad fill). Been using them since my film days and love them.

Good advice!!

You do need a fairly powerful flash though, as you will lose a stop and a half of light.
--


Eli.

See Profile for Equipment.
 
I've always found that the Sto-fen on my Sigma flash with the DS results in about a 1 to 1.5 stop overexposure.

UNLESS I also flip down the wide-angle diffuser first!

Kind of annoying.... but I get around it. Yes, that first example does look a little bit overexposed and that has been my experience as well.

Once you adjust for the overexposure, though, the quality of the light IS better.

-Charles
 
Maybe it's time to upgrade from my rubber band and file card setup.

Does Stofen make one specificially for the Sigma flash? I asked and there wasnt one. What is the model no. of your omnibounce?
 
Maybe it's time to upgrade from my rubber band and file card setup.

Does Stofen make one specificially for the Sigma flash? I asked and
there wasnt one. What is the model no. of your omnibounce?
There is a "Fit Engine" on the website.
http://www.stofen.com/
Just put in the make and model of your flash.
--


Eli.

See Profile for Equipment.
 
I have been using the "Better Bounce Card" system by Peter Gregg and it has been wonderful. It works so much better than anything else I have tried. The link is here-with video included:
http://abetterbouncecard.com/

As I am too lazy to run around looking for parts and pieces, I just ordered a kit from him and, with a little practice, you can really do amazing things.
I have a Sto-Fen for my 540, but this works even better.
 
I have been using the "Better Bounce Card" system by Peter Gregg
and it has been wonderful. It works so much better than anything
else I have tried. The link is here-with video included:
http://abetterbouncecard.com/
As I am too lazy to run around looking for parts and pieces, I just
ordered a kit from him and, with a little practice, you can really
do amazing things.
I have a Sto-Fen for my 540, but this works even better.
Hey, interesting video! I used to use a bounce card up until a couple of years ago but always the card was a bit rigid, got knocked about in the camera bag and was all around a bit awkward so I changed to the Sto-fen. BUT, the material this guy uses seems very flexible and perhaps restists damage but gives some more flexible options..... I like it. Nice tip, thanks!

--
Brett
http://www.pbase.com/shreder



The Journey is the Thing
 
Just checked the Sto-fen site and they are saying that the flash
should be set at a 45 degree angle rather than straight on. The 45
degree angle they say wraps the subject in soft light and
eliminates harsh shadows.
Thanks for reminding me that I want one for my Pentax 540 flash...a
Sto-fen is much handier and lighter than the Gary Fong Lightsphere
(looks like a piece of tupper ware) that I use when shooting
portraits indoors. The Lightsphere does an even better job than the
Sto-fen...more like a portrait lighting setup but it is really to
big and heavy to carry around.
Lei, I also usually have a piece of card at the back inside of the Sto-fen to push light forward (rather than have it escape backwards) esp. when pointing it straight up at 90 degrees. The Lightsphere is indeed too large IMO so I have steered clear of it -- smae with the rigid card set ups I used to use

... but I like Michael's post with the Better Bounce card idea http://abetterbouncecard.com/ - the material is much more flexible than I thought to use previously and the video he goes through (it's quite a long video) some useage options i hadn't thought about before because of the flexibility of the card (cheap solution too)

--
Brett
http://www.pbase.com/shreder



The Journey is the Thing
 
Hi

For what it is worth I visited the better bounce card site and following a viewing of Peter's video I found the material he mentions here in Australia. Its a kids craft material. No name that I could see. About 2mm thick foam sheet. At AU$2.00 an A4 sheet it is a lot more economical that buying the prepared kits. I found the foam material at Riot Art Supplies. I assume it is available Australia wide. I found it works fantastically, particularly when used with the foam bounce material facing the subject as described by Peter - it gives very soft shadows.

Regards
--
Brian
 
The video does not compare itself to the Lumiquest 80-20 Pro-Max Kit when that is it's main competitor. The 80-20 does the nearly the same things and IMHO looks more professional :-)

I'd recommend the 80-20 instead since it is a US patented item rather than just a DIY project :-)

Calvin

--

 
Brett,

I have to agree with you, I use my Stofen on the AF540FGZ and rarely have an underexposure issue.

As you say, it is probably the fact that the room is more evenly lit up and also that direct flash is more likely to create hot spots for the P-TTL which would then cause underexposure. By hot spots I mean direct flash bouncing off bright metalic surfaces like picture frames, glassware, windows and the like, whereas a diffused and or bounced flash will have less impact on the surfaces.

A bounced and or diffused flash is less likely to cause hot spots and the P-TTL should compensate for the fact that it is bounced and diffused as long as there is enough power from the flash, ie that you are not asking the flash to do more coverage than the flash can handle.
--
Lance B

http://www.pbase.com/lance_b
GMT +10hours

 
Hi

For what it is worth I visited the better bounce card site and
following a viewing of Peter's video I found the material he
mentions here in Australia. Its a kids craft material. No name
that I could see. About 2mm thick foam sheet. At AU$2.00 an A4
sheet it is a lot more economical that buying the prepared kits. I
found the foam material at Riot Art Supplies. I assume it is
available Australia wide. I found it works fantastically,
particularly when used with the foam bounce material facing the
subject as described by Peter - it gives very soft shadows.
.. seems like it might be available at Riot Art & Craft - they have chains of stores across Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane (bit don't appear to be elsewhere)

Thanks for the tip!! - for such a cheap investment it is worth a look - better than the hard card mateiral I nused for years as it was too rigid - this looks like it will be alot better.

Cheers

--
Brett
http://www.pbase.com/shreder



The Journey is the Thing
 

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