External flash recommendation

[maynard001]

I'm looking for the cheapest, decent external flash that will work with a K100D. I'd like to be able to diffuse or bounce my flash and i just can't do it with the built-in flash.

Any recommendations would be appreciated...

thanks,
jason

 

[snostorm]

If the primary thing is cost, I'd look for a name brand non-dedicated Auto - Thyristor flash. Going super cheap isn't a good option as I've heard of disastrous failures like flash units blowing up and such.

Auto Thyristor flashes don't communicate with the camera for exposure, rather they have a sensor on the flash unit which sees the light reflected back towards the camera and shuts down the flash when it senses enough light. Not as sophisticated as those that meter through the lens, but before dedicated TTL, pros relied on this type of flash for years.

You do have to preset the aperture and ISO speed in the camera and match it with the setting on the flash, but you'll have a significant range of distances where the exposure will be pretty close or right on, so you won't have to constantly change settings as subject distance changes. Not as "automatic" as the newer flashes, but not that much of a hassle.

The most recommended model that comes to mind is the Sunpak 383 -- available new for @ $80.

Used flashes of this type are plentiful, but some have trigger voltages that might fry your camera -- a useful site is :

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

it also tells you how to measure the voltage if the flash you're considering is not listed. The accepted max voltage for Pentax DSLRs seems to be @ 30V -- to be safe, I'd go lower.

I'd also look at dedicated TTL flashes for and from any mfg that have an Auto mode. An example from Pentax is the AF280T. Though it's normally considered a dedicated TTL flash and won't work in TTL mode, it will in Auto, and I use it in that mode with my K10. I recently won one on ebay for @ $50 -- a very good flash at a very low price.

Hope that helps.

Scott

 

[sarpeco]

Hi

for my K100D I use an auto - photothyristor flashes and I am quite pleased. The name of my flash is Hanimex TZ328 ("metric" guide number 32), but the same device exists under a lot of other names. For the price of 5€ I bought it on ebay is really not bad at all. The exposure is accurate and the colours are natural. With my flash I have the possibility to set two values for the apperture for a given ISO (for example 1:4 and 1:5.6 @200ISO) but some other old models have more possibilities.

Regards,
Cristian

 

[davemdsn]

I just picked up a used Vivitar 285. It had not a scratch on it and was in the original box with all original contents. It cost me $40! The Vivitar 283/285 flashes were the most used flash on any camera back in the days before TTL flash control and are still available new for $100 or more.
--
David

Remember, the light at the end of the tunnel could be another train.

 

[gkreth]

I just picked up a used Vivitar 285. It had not a scratch on it
and was in the original box with all original contents. It cost me
$40! The Vivitar 283/285 flashes were the most used flash on any
camera back in the days before TTL flash control and are still
available new for $100 or more.

Used can be good deals, but be careful to check the model on Botzilla:
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

The Vivitar 285HV is usually pretty safe, but older 285s can have up to 350 volts! That's fry your camrea big time!

My old Vivitar 283 had 295 volts:



My Vivitar 285 was much safer,



A good alternative to the Sunpak 283 is the Sunpak 433D; it appears to be identical to the 283, just an older model. And it has a safe voltage:



HTH,

--Greg

 

[maynard001]

thanks for the advice everyone. sounds like i can get something decent for around $100. i'll do a little more research before I dive in to anything.

didn't realize there was so much to choose from on external flashes....

thanks,
jason

 

[maynard001]

Thanks again. Does "auto" mode mean I wouldn't have to mess with the settings on the back of the flash?

 

[davemdsn]

I have the 285HV and a pair of 283s. Sounds like it is a good thing I never use them on the camera. I used the PC socket on the *istD and got a cheap wireless unit for the K10.
--
David

Remember, the light at the end of the tunnel could be another train.

 

[snostorm]

The stuff on the back of the flash is usually a slider where you enter the ISO and the power setting of the flash (ie low med hi) it will then indicate the range of distances you can shoot with auto exposure and the aperture setting that you need to use. Because the flash is doing the sensing, you might have to make slight adjustments, but with digital, you can check image in review and make any adjustments needed on the fly.

Auto flashes also have the possible advantage of not using a preflash which sometimes causes people with quick blink reflexes to close their eyes.

Scott

 

[SteveB]

Here's a less common golden oldie flash that works great with my K100D, a Nissin 360TW



10 volt trigger voltage, guide no. 36, swivel 2 direction head, and something you don't see on many flashes, a second switchable fill-in flash which I have a bit of tissue paper taped over to dim it a bit when used. 3 power positions, fast recycling.

 

[maynard001]

Thanks...it sounds like i can get an aftermarket manual flash for around $100. I know it will be non-ttl...but that's OK. As someone said earlier, photographers have been using these types of flashes for years with excellent results.

Since I'm going manual, is there anything in particular that i should look for (or avoid)? My local Ritz camera has a Quantaray for $99 that looked OK.

-jason

 

[gkreth]

I have the 285HV and a pair of 283s. Sounds like it is a good
thing I never use them on the camera. I used the PC socket on the
*istD and got a cheap wireless unit for the K10.

Well, they may be OK, especuially the 285HV - I think all the "HV" versions were good. And some of the not-as-old Chinese versions of the 283 are good as well. (Mine was from 1983 or 1984).

The most important thing is to test them. Andy voltmeter will work, but the digital ones are more accurate. I think you can even take them to a Radio Shack, and they'll test them for you - it'd very quick and easy to do.

--Greg

 

[Rupert60]

I assume the 100D is Pttl? I have a Promaster 5750 DX that I use on my DS and I have been very well pleased. It fully swivels, is powerful, and has been very useful for me. One feature I really like is the small "Fill Flash" on the front that I often use for Macro work. If you turn the main head up and just use the small front flash for Macro, it won't blow out the highlights, yet it will provide nice even light. I bought mine at Wolfe's(not a Ritz affiliate) in Kansas by phone and talked with Tom Tweddell, a nice guy that was very helpful. When my first unit went bad, they were very quick to get me a new one, with no hassle whatsoever. 1-800-359-6533 or Google them for more info. Here's one where I used the little "fill flash".



--
'This is more serious than I thought.....but it is still fun!
http://www.pbase.com/rupertdog Take a look- It's Free!

 

[maynard001]

Very nice. Yes...I think the K100D is P-ttl. Does that mean I can't use aftermarket manual flashes with the sliders on the back?

 

[Rupert60]

Very nice. Yes...I think the K100D is P-ttl. Does that mean I
can't use aftermarket manual flashes with the sliders on the back?

If you are Pttl, then it is my understanding that you must use a Pttl flash. I am no flash expert, but you can search here and find lots on Pttl. BTW, the Promaster 5750DX is Pttl, one of the few third party flashes that is, and much cheaper in price, with nice build quality IMO.

'This is more serious than I thought.....but it is still fun!
http://www.pbase.com/rupertdog Take a look- It's Free!

 

[frustrated user]

You do not have to use a flash that is p-ttl compatable... This is only necessary if you wish for the camera to use "thorugh the lens" light metering.

The cheapest path is to find a good used thyristor controlled flash of the correct voltage.

P-ttl mode was completely useless for photographing my family because of problems with blinking fom the pre-flash.

Mark

 

[HMayling]

I have checked with Vivitar. The 283 models made in Hong Kong have a trigger voltage of 10v. The older ones made in Japan about 300v.

I use the hong kong model on my Nikon 990 and it works fine. I set off the other flashes with photo triggers.

--
Former Pentax owner

Minolta abandoned the market, and Sony hasn't done it well enough yet. Pentax here I come.

 

[Rupert60]

You do not have to use a flash that is p-ttl compatable... This is
only necessary if you wish for the camera to use "thorugh the lens"
light metering.

The cheapest path is to find a good used thyristor controlled flash
of the correct voltage.

P-ttl mode was completely useless for photographing my family
because of problems with blinking fom the pre-flash.

Mark

Have shot several hundred flash pttl shots, the auto metering is excellent, and I am still looking for my first blinkng eye problem. I don't want to figure out the metering for every shot I take, I just want to take the shot. Just like using a M lens, which I often do, but for most shooting I don't have time to calculate every setting so DA lenses are the choice for those situations.

'This is more serious than I thought.....but it is still fun!
http://www.pbase.com/rupertdog Take a look- It's Free!

 

[frustrated user]

Glad to hear p-ttl works well for you. It seems like a great deal of the population do not blink from the p-ttl pre-flash. My family is definitely not in this group.

P-ttl does meter very nicely, but perfectly exposed photos of my daughter with her eyes closed are not the sort of memorable moments we like to capture.

BTW, I just set the flash to "Auto mode", aperature = 8, asa = 400, camera to aperature priority, asa = 400, asa = 8 and fire away. Great photos every time and no blinking.

 

[maynard001]

Thanks for the replies. If you don't mind, can you tell me what sort of flash you use? I'd like to get some sort of a benchmark for the price on a non-pttl flash that will work with a K100D

thanks,
jason