Safari Lens Dilema

Kevin Johnson

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Hi,

I am trying to figure out what lens / lenses I am going to need when I go on safari this summer, and would like some opinons.

I currently have the Canon 20D with Grip, and 200mm is my max zoom with the Magic Drainpipe (80-200 2.8L).

I am currently considering either

Canon 35-350L
Canon 100-400L IS
Sigma 80-400 OS
Sigma 50-500

I looked at the Canon 28-300L but that is to expensive.

I have seen some wonderfull pictures on pbase taken around the 300 - 350mm mark, so am leaning towards the 350L, but is it any good at 350.

I am going to be in Kenya, and then tanzania in September, visiting most of the big parks, and will be in a vehicle, so weight isn't a major consideration in terms of carrying all day, but won't have a tripod / monopod so maybe IS / OS is best.

Thanks

Kevin
 
We just visited a "safari park" on Saturday. The difference with a real safari (as far as photography is concerned) is that the animals are generally closer than you can expect in the wild, most of the time. I was using the 70-300IS and in the park the 300mm was often already not long enough. When you have good light you might get away with 300m plus one or two TCs.
Hi,

I am trying to figure out what lens / lenses I am going to need
when I go on safari this summer, and would like some opinons.

I currently have the Canon 20D with Grip, and 200mm is my max zoom
with the Magic Drainpipe (80-200 2.8L).

I am currently considering either

Canon 35-350L
Canon 100-400L IS
Sigma 80-400 OS
Sigma 50-500

I looked at the Canon 28-300L but that is to expensive.

I have seen some wonderfull pictures on pbase taken around the 300
  • 350mm mark, so am leaning towards the 350L, but is it any good at
350.

I am going to be in Kenya, and then tanzania in September, visiting
most of the big parks, and will be in a vehicle, so weight isn't a
major consideration in terms of carrying all day, but won't have a
tripod / monopod so maybe IS / OS is best.

Thanks

Kevin
--

Slowly learning to use the DRebel (only around 20.000 shots) and now also the Fuji F11.
Public pictures at http://wwwis.win.tue.nl/~debra/photos/
 
After many years of saving up and lusting after the 100-400, I finally got one just in time for a trip up to Botswana over the Easter weekend.

I'm still sorting through pics, but I can tell you this lens is great, very sharp even wide open. The difference between pics from last week and pics from previous trip last Sept using a 75-300 are susbstantial.

I am really pleased and can now confirm what so many others have said that this is one of the best all round wildlife lenses you can get.

For Kenya and Tanzania, whilst you may often encounter wildlife very close, you'll also get a lot of good shots at a distance and the 400mm end on the 20D is great for all reasonable distances, especially in a vehicle.

I have a Land Rover Defender and take almost all of my pics from inside the vehicle. I've also been to Kenya and Tanzania and would never be without IS !!!

Don't forget a wide angle/normal lens too ! There's great scenery and people shots for the taking. I use a 17-85, which I also find very good.

By the way, plugs in Kenya are British type 13A "square" pin. Tanzania tends to be mostly European continental type.

The Canon CR-560 charger works off 12V, has a cigarette lighter plug and will charge two BP511/A batteries. I use one in my Land Rover.

I have a 20D and grip, as you do.

Regards,
Brian
 
I hadn't thought of this one.

I already have a 1.4x convertor, so could get to 400+ easily.
hmmm

only thing is, it doesn't have IS, do I really need it?

thanks for the comments so far
Sigma 120-300 f2.8
I would consider this one too. Works with the 1.4 and 2x converters.

Another possibility is the 400 f5.6 unless you prefer a zoom.

--
Thomas
http://thomasisler.members.winisp.net/
Canon 2oD, Canon 35oD
 
(You're not the same guy as on Fodor's are you? :-) )

Normally, a TC doesn't fit on zoom lenses starting lower as 100mm. But on this one it does! And you keep AF, as it starts at less than F4.

Your other lens options are either far more expensive (28-300L), or have slower AF (Sigma lenses) or don't take TC's that allow AF (100-400).

You can't have it all but the 35-350 + 1,4TC comes close. No IS is a downside, but luckily there's plenty of light and you can work with beanbag and/or monopod. 350mm x1,6 x1,4 is almost 800mm.

Just make sure you don't get one of the earlier copies of the 35-350. Those may have an interior coating fault. It's easy to spot though. Just search this forum for "35-350" and you'll find more info about it.

Two other things;
  • don't believe people who say "the more zoom, the better". Conditions in Africa are different. There's a limit in (African) nature; the dust, the hot moving air, the blue haze, etc... 400mm (not counting 1,6x crop factor) is all you need. Pics don't get better beyond that. Go for L quality. Not for zoom range.
  • a superzoom means changing lenses less often. With all the dust around, that's something worth thinking about. You only need a 17-40 to accompany a 35-350, for example. Also; near or far; you'll get the animal on CF. While others may miss it while changing lenses. ;-)
--
Ciao,

J.
 
ymmv but when I was in Tanzania I only saw british plugs.
After many years of saving up and lusting after the 100-400, I
finally got one just in time for a trip up to Botswana over the
Easter weekend.

I'm still sorting through pics, but I can tell you this lens is
great, very sharp even wide open. The difference between pics from
last week and pics from previous trip last Sept using a 75-300 are
susbstantial.

I am really pleased and can now confirm what so many others have
said that this is one of the best all round wildlife lenses you can
get.

For Kenya and Tanzania, whilst you may often encounter wildlife
very close, you'll also get a lot of good shots at a distance and
the 400mm end on the 20D is great for all reasonable distances,
especially in a vehicle.

I have a Land Rover Defender and take almost all of my pics from
inside the vehicle. I've also been to Kenya and Tanzania and would
never be without IS !!!

Don't forget a wide angle/normal lens too ! There's great scenery
and people shots for the taking. I use a 17-85, which I also find
very good.

By the way, plugs in Kenya are British type 13A "square" pin.
Tanzania tends to be mostly European continental type.

The Canon CR-560 charger works off 12V, has a cigarette lighter
plug and will charge two BP511/A batteries. I use one in my Land
Rover.

I have a 20D and grip, as you do.

Regards,
Brian
--

Slowly learning to use the DRebel (only around 20.000 shots) and now also the Fuji F11.
Public pictures at http://wwwis.win.tue.nl/~debra/photos/
 
Thanks for the tip.

the only thing stopping me about the 35-350, is the no IS.

Do you know what TC's will fit this lens (I have a Kenko Pro 300) at the moment, and already have a 20-35 2.8L as a wide angle lens, so think with that lens I may be sorted.

Now to try and find a decent one in Europe.

Do you have any pics from the 350 @ 350 with a TC by any chance.

rgds

Kev
 
Hi,

you will need something to help you out in low light as this is when you'll probably be out and about, fortunately the mammals don't tend to move quickly (unlike birds) so a slowish shutter speed is ok. Depending on how many people are in the vehicle with you a sand/bean bag may be useful (too many and this becomes difficult). I've used these in the past and some safari companies have them in the vehicles. However, I've been fortunate enough to go on safari 3 times and unfortunate enough to never take an IS lens ! Last time I really kicked myself for not getting one and bought the 70-300 IS a few months later. I am 100 % confident the IS would have gotten me shots I otherwise missed/messed up. So, although I cannot compare the lenses you mentioned for me IS would be a great advantage and I'd go for 100-400 if I had the cash simply because I prefer Canon and you see some greats shots taken with it.

Have a fantastic trip. If you haven't been before you'll be surprised at just how close you get to the wildlife.

Richard
 
IS is always welcome. At least for me. It's really helpful in low light situation where the subject is not moving. But it also helps if your hands are shaking.

All of my lenses have IS if available.
That's one of the reasons I don't own the Sigma 120-300 2.8.
Beautiful lens but no IS.
My colleague has it and he's VERY happy with it.
I hadn't thought of this one.

I already have a 1.4x convertor, so could get to 400+ easily.
hmmm

only thing is, it doesn't have IS, do I really need it?

thanks for the comments so far
 
I could suggest that you have a look at my gallery, put together from a trip to Kenya in February.
http://www.pbase.com/mikemccombie/kicheche06

Pbase seems a bit slow here at the moment, but that might be for some other reason.

On my trip, I took 5000 frames, two thirds on my 1d mk2 with 70-200 2.8L IS, and one third on a 20D with 300f4, much of the time with the 1.4xII as well. This was about what I had expected and planned for.

The idea is that you're in Africa, you want to get the being in Africa as well as the animal, and show the animal in its context. In a safari park or zoo, you're mostly trying to avoid fencing, building, masts etc., and will often be fascinated by close ups of the animals, so longer is better at home. I'd say my best shots were split along similar proportions, though I've not examined it in detail.

Much depends on exactly what vehicle type you will be in, and how good your driver/guide is in placing it. Most vehicles are in far too much of a hurry, spend far too little time with each subject, and get far too clsoe far too quickly. Picture of the tops of animals heads you can get almost anywhere.

All I would change is to take a second 1DmkII instead of the 20D. If I were dreaming, I'd like a 500f4 for the portait shots, and for more distant subjects. Again, in dream-land, I'd take a 300f2.8L IS instead of the f4. The 300f4 is a brilliant package, especially as it is so light, but the difference that a 2.8 makes was very noticable in the best shots. For pictures of Lions and Cheetah, the 70-200 does fine - it is a brilliant lens - and the 300f4 is good with the longer reach and 20D for shots more like portraits and closer crops of the subject.

I would say, you still have to be careful about things you don't want in the background, such as the ubiquitous white vans.

It is crucial, nothing less, to have the right guide. Not only for knowing where to look, when, and how, but for positioning the vehicle for good shots. Unusually, you are not really in control of this, and normally you would be. With the right guide, you will not find this a problem and will be as busy as you could ever hope to be. With the wrong guide, your frustration level will be quite high. You still get frustrated, but until you can hire the entire vehicle and guide yourself, you have to live with this!

Get out early. Half an hour before dawn. Get back late. Half an hour after sunset or more, depending upon whether you have good subjects close by your camp. Cheetah are pretty busy in the middle of the day, so you have to contend with amazing contrast in your shots - make sure you can deal with this.

I have a 100-400 as well, but I didn't take it. When it broke last year I got the 300f4, and can't bring myself to use the 100-400 again as it is just not as sharp. Perhaps with the amazing amount of light there is in Kenya in mid-day it would be ok, but again, my best shots are taken around dawn and at the end of the day. The best of all 1/60, f6.3 on the 300f4 with 1.4x, at ISO200 - you will not always have a lot of light! Would I have got that shot with the 100-400? It sounds like I might have been able to from the numbers, but as it was borderline in the end, I really don't think so. That's also why I'd have had the second body be a 1D2 before changing any lens - that would have helped a lot.

If you get to find leopards, they're likely to be in a tree, and in deep shade. Long fast lenses are best. You could also get lucky, and find them out in the open, in which case, it all depends, but you could find the 70-200 would be fine. The nice thing about that is you can always put the 1.4 on that too, which I did once or twice. Best not to be changing lenses though.
Whatever you choose to do, be ready, and be lucky!
--
Mike

http://www.pbase.com/mikemccombie/
 
I had not really considered this, but indeed you want to show context so you don't need that much of a long lens. If you want the best possible closeup of say a lion, go to a local safari park, not Africa.
I could suggest that you have a look at my gallery, put together
from a trip to Kenya in February.
http://www.pbase.com/mikemccombie/kicheche06

Pbase seems a bit slow here at the moment, but that might be for
some other reason.
On my trip, I took 5000 frames, two thirds on my 1d mk2 with 70-200
2.8L IS, and one third on a 20D with 300f4, much of the time with
the 1.4xII as well. This was about what I had expected and planned
for.
The idea is that you're in Africa, you want to get the being in
Africa as well as the animal, and show the animal in its context.
In a safari park or zoo, you're mostly trying to avoid fencing,
building, masts etc., and will often be fascinated by close ups of
the animals, so longer is better at home. I'd say my best shots
were split along similar proportions, though I've not examined it
in detail.
Much depends on exactly what vehicle type you will be in, and how
good your driver/guide is in placing it. Most vehicles are in far
too much of a hurry, spend far too little time with each subject,
and get far too clsoe far too quickly. Picture of the tops of
animals heads you can get almost anywhere.
All I would change is to take a second 1DmkII instead of the 20D.
If I were dreaming, I'd like a 500f4 for the portait shots, and for
more distant subjects. Again, in dream-land, I'd take a 300f2.8L
IS instead of the f4. The 300f4 is a brilliant package, especially
as it is so light, but the difference that a 2.8 makes was very
noticable in the best shots. For pictures of Lions and Cheetah,
the 70-200 does fine - it is a brilliant lens - and the 300f4 is
good with the longer reach and 20D for shots more like portraits
and closer crops of the subject.
I would say, you still have to be careful about things you don't
want in the background, such as the ubiquitous white vans.
It is crucial, nothing less, to have the right guide. Not only for
knowing where to look, when, and how, but for positioning the
vehicle for good shots. Unusually, you are not really in control
of this, and normally you would be. With the right guide, you will
not find this a problem and will be as busy as you could ever hope
to be. With the wrong guide, your frustration level will be quite
high. You still get frustrated, but until you can hire the entire
vehicle and guide yourself, you have to live with this!
Get out early. Half an hour before dawn. Get back late. Half an
hour after sunset or more, depending upon whether you have good
subjects close by your camp. Cheetah are pretty busy in the middle
of the day, so you have to contend with amazing contrast in your
shots - make sure you can deal with this.
I have a 100-400 as well, but I didn't take it. When it broke last
year I got the 300f4, and can't bring myself to use the 100-400
again as it is just not as sharp. Perhaps with the amazing amount
of light there is in Kenya in mid-day it would be ok, but again, my
best shots are taken around dawn and at the end of the day. The
best of all 1/60, f6.3 on the 300f4 with 1.4x, at ISO200 - you will
not always have a lot of light! Would I have got that shot with
the 100-400? It sounds like I might have been able to from the
numbers, but as it was borderline in the end, I really don't think
so. That's also why I'd have had the second body be a 1D2 before
changing any lens - that would have helped a lot.
If you get to find leopards, they're likely to be in a tree, and in
deep shade. Long fast lenses are best. You could also get lucky,
and find them out in the open, in which case, it all depends, but
you could find the 70-200 would be fine. The nice thing about that
is you can always put the 1.4 on that too, which I did once or
twice. Best not to be changing lenses though.
Whatever you choose to do, be ready, and be lucky!
--
Mike

http://www.pbase.com/mikemccombie/
--

Slowly learning to use the DRebel (only around 20.000 shots) and now also the Fuji F11.
Public pictures at http://wwwis.win.tue.nl/~debra/photos/
 
The need for these huge telephotos is a myth. We just returned from our second trip to East Africa. My longest lens was a 300 mm f4 used with a 1.4 tc for a total of 420 mm. This lens was on one camera and my 70-200 was on the other body. I can tell you that I got as many shots with the 70-200 as I did with the other combo. In most cases if you can't get the shot with 300 or 400 mm, it will not be that much better with a 500 or 600. There are a lot of other factors involved such as haze, etc but the biggest factor is luck. Here are a few samples with the focal lenght used:

85 mm



200 mm



153 mm



200 mm, 1/80 s



I was also able to capture about 80 to 100 different bird species as well with this combo. I think that what would probably be more valuable is a second body. Trust me when I say that unless you have been there you cannot possibly know how much dust there is. But hey, it's all part of the adventure.

To sum up, my advice would be to use you 80-200 on your current body and pick up either a 300 f4 with tc or a 400 5.6 and an XT as a second body.

Do you know which parks and reserves you will be visiting?

--
Richard300
 
my gess is if you have already 80-200 f2.8 , you can use it with 1.4tc very nice.

i would get canon 400mm f5.6 for longer distances , birds , also you can use this lens with 1.4tc very well , btw this is combo that i use:)

all best
kristian
Hi,

I am trying to figure out what lens / lenses I am going to need
when I go on safari this summer, and would like some opinons.

I currently have the Canon 20D with Grip, and 200mm is my max zoom
with the Magic Drainpipe (80-200 2.8L).

I am currently considering either

Canon 35-350L
Canon 100-400L IS
Sigma 80-400 OS
Sigma 50-500

I looked at the Canon 28-300L but that is to expensive.

I have seen some wonderfull pictures on pbase taken around the 300
  • 350mm mark, so am leaning towards the 350L, but is it any good at
350.

I am going to be in Kenya, and then tanzania in September, visiting
most of the big parks, and will be in a vehicle, so weight isn't a
major consideration in terms of carrying all day, but won't have a
tripod / monopod so maybe IS / OS is best.

Thanks

Kevin
 
What do I think I would do in your place? I can't say what you should do, I think that has to be your decision! What I would do is perhaps not the same, but here goes.

I think your budget isn't too bad, but stretch it a bit, and maybe recover it afterwards. Get a second body to mate with a longer lens. Get a good bean bag and fill it there, mainly for using with the 80-200 from lower in the vehicle, and for use with the longer lens out of the roof. Get the 300f4 (for the IS, rather than the 400f5.6) and also get the 1.4xII.

When you get back, sell the second body again. You should get a good enough price on resale that this doesn't cost you much.

It's not surprising that this is what I would do though, it's almost what I did. I do think you want a second body though, as you need a backup, and you want your long lens ready without swapping lenses.

What you may find is that you have plenty of time and are waiting for a good opportunity with a group of animals, or something turns up, you have to be instantly there with the longer lens. Don't be thinking in terms of cropping it later, only do that for the optimum composition. The shot should be as near as you can get to what you want out of the camera. Of course, you might still only post a cropped version to the web as it isn't always the best thing in that medium.

What I would do that I did not do on my trip, is take a light monopod. Sometimes, and this is where it can be frustrating, you're shooting from the wrong side of the vehicle, and to stay low, that means you're shooting though the open side on the other side - no chance to rest on anything unless the angle allows a shot thgrough the roof. I tend to avoid shots through the roof if I want to include some of the surrounding landscape, but it all depends. Best to try to be as near as possible to eye level with the subject. A few times I would have really wanted a monopod to help, and another time I would certainly take one, but only very light, as I'd only need it from a sitting position.
--
Mike

http://www.pbase.com/mikemccombie/
 
Hey Kevin

There have been tons of posts about this here, you can find a lot of information from a search. A lot of it depends on when and where you going and your shooting style. If the 35-350 had IS i think it would be a nobrainer, but i don't think you can overestimate the value of IS. most of the interesting shots are early morning or late evening. IS, low noise high ISO performance and fast lenses are all very important (in roughly that order). the animals usually move slowly so 2-3 stops with IS is more usefull then 1-2 extra stops in lens speed.

the 100-400L IS is a great lens. there are times when 100mm will be to long though, but just as many as when 400 will be too short. There are other options, but after having done it once with a 100-400 I wouldn't do it with anything else. (except maybe a second body with a 70-200 2.8 IS :)

other comments

Bring a Macro if you like bugs. there's tons of them there, and very different then the ones seen in the states.
Bring a wide angle lens for people, landscape, urban scenes.

Bring lots of memory, don't expect to find places to copy CF cards to a CD. best bet is bring some storage system (small laptop, nexto, (not ipod though!).

Bring lots of batteries, enough for a couple days of shooting and lots of options for charging

Don't expect to change lenses in the field. I am carefull with optics but managed to ruin a pair of 4 year old glasses in 2 weeks. There can be dust and dirt everywhere! (again depends on the season). Bring a good blower and ziplock bags for any lens cloths or dirt sensative items.

I was never in a position where a bean bag would have been usefull, but a monopod may have worked (only with a QR plate)

BrianSA has a lot of experience and good advice. This is the first post where i saw him recommend a 100-400L (since he just got one). Earlier i would have classified him as one of the people saying that 300mm is long enough. I think it really comes down to your style of shooting. do you take shots where the animal is 1/8 of the length of the entire photo? or do you try to fill the frame with the animal? (neither is right or wrong, but remember you can uasually zoom out, but you CAN NOT zoom in with your feet!)
 
Paul,

Good point ! There are lodges and camps that are run by Kenyan, British and South African companies, so you could add in the South African 15A round pin plgs too :-)

Anywhere up there it's best to take adapters for Europe, UK and SA, then you should be OK :-)

I realsied, as I read your post, at a South African run camp in Botswana last week, they only had SA plug sockets, despite Botswana standard being same as UK. It's Africa, expect anything :-)

Regards,
Brian
 
One of the biggest things you are going to have to face is how you are positioning yourself in the vehicle and if you will have room to have a second body which I would highly suggest. You really don't want to go changing lenses out there unless you have to. If you haven't chosen a company yet, I would look into getting one where you and your wife, girlfirend etc. are the only ones with you..............it makes things so much easier. And like some of the other posts said, a good driver is essential. There are companies operating out of Nairobi that ofer the type of service and they aren't that expensive...........the service is worth it. Now onto the equipment.............I took two bodies and an S70. Mounted a 400 L ( most of the time with a TC 1.4) on one and a 70-300 DO on the other. The combination worked out perfectly.
 
wow,

I am overwhelmed by all this advice, thanks guys it's really apreciated.

I have always gone for the fastest lens I could (2.8 is my slowest), and was a bit concerned about going for something slower (f4 or even slower).

looking around a concencous seems to be the 100-400L is the best safari lens out there for the money, and then maybe couple that with my 28-70 (for closer), or even look into something like a 10-22 for environmental shots.

Of the many pictures I see around, I find the close up ones to be the most striking, and have found this persons work exceptional.

http://www.pbase.com/alex_beb/africa_2005

he shot all of these with a D100, and I imagine something like an 80-400 lens. This was my first reason to be looking towards a 100-400L

The trip is a 3 week one visiting:

Sweetwater Reserve, Lake Baringo, Lake Nakuru N.P, Lake Victoria, Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater.

Also involved are 2 climbs, one up mount kenya, and one up kilimajaro (not all the way up, but day treks).

I will also be borrowing a sigma 18-200 for the day treks, for something light, but usefull.

I will keep on looking for a good 2nd hand 100-400 or see if I can borrow one from someone in my photo club. I'll also post some pictures on my return

Kevin
 
If you can borrow one, that's great. There has been discussion of other options, rental (rentglass.com i think), buying and selling on return. or making contact with someone incountry who would buy it when you leave (perhaps more applicable to south africa if i remember, they are suppose to be wicked expensive down there)

good luck and have fun! It sounds like a great trip! Don't forget to put the camera down once in a while :)
 

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