Shooting running dog tips?

alex_h

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Hi,

I need to take a picture of a runnig dog for a client. I do have pretty fast lens and AI Servo on my 300D camera. I have pretty general idea how to do it, but I never did shots of a running dogs and I assume there might be some tips or tricks to do it right. My all photo experience is mostly in people photography.

I would appreciate any advice.

Thank you.
--
Best regards,
Alex H.
Web: http://alexphotostudio.smugmug.com
 
A lot depends on the position of the dog relative the lens. Will they be running parallel so you can pan or toward or away from you?

Do you want to totally "stop action" or do you want the dog's body in focus with slight blur to imply motion?

The AI servo often misses focus on the first frame then has sufficient information to properly autofocus on subsequent frames. What focal length are you planning to use? If using a zoom lens, don't try to autofocus while zooming but rather lock the focal length first then frame and focus. Sometimes it's easier to use manual focus, especially if the animal is moving parallel and you are panning with the movement.

If you have decent lighting, it's often better to shoot at a bit higher ISO so you can set aperture to get sufficient DOF.

There are many variable so more information about your plans specific to the setup would be helpful.

Lin
 
I have been thinking about letting the dog run in parallel from left to right and panning while it is runnig. I have 24-70 2.8L lens. I have been thinking about renting 70-200 2.8L IS. Is it a good idea? I want to get the dog stending out from background and bg totally blured, so it give the better feeling for the speed. They are fast running hunting dogs and can run 30 ml/h.

We have to go to park early, otherwise it gets crowded with the dogs. We have decided about 8 am. Here at NW it is pretty dark at 7 am still.

--
Best regards,
Alex H.
Web: http://alexphotostudio.smugmug.com
 
I have been thinking about letting the dog run in parallel from
left to right and panning while it is runnig. I have 24-70 2.8L
lens. I have been thinking about renting 70-200 2.8L IS. Is it a
good idea? I want to get the dog stending out from background and
bg totally blured, so it give the better feeling for the speed.
They are fast running hunting dogs and can run 30 ml/h.
We have to go to park early, otherwise it gets crowded with the
dogs. We have decided about 8 am. Here at NW it is pretty dark at 7
am still.

--
Best regards,
Alex H.
Web: http://alexphotostudio.smugmug.com
The 70-200 would be ideal because with F2.8 you will be more likely to get a decent autofocus (as you know, the camera will always autofocus at wide open then stop down to the aperture setting you have chosen). There will be no need to use a wide aperture because the panning will totally blur the background and shooting at F8-F11 should get you crisp images with sufficient DOF. If possible shoot with the sun at your back which should make shadows pretty much a non issue. An overcast day would be ideal (not a big problem in the NW) for nice flat lighting.

I would try both autofocus and manual focus. I don't think you will need to use AI at all if panning with the dog. AI is best for subjects either approaching or moving away from the lens.

Best regards,

Lin
 
I have never been using image stabilizer before. How does it work with panning and a dog moving up and down?

I have been thinking to shoot some angle to the running dog and panning while it is moving, so I will have some toward movement. Something like this

dog ----------------------->
\ \ \
\ \ me

I guess, I have to try both modes and see how it works.

--
Best regards,
Alex H.
Web: http://alexphotostudio.smugmug.com
 
Just a quick mention, do take some of the dogs running straight towards you, once the servo focus has 'locked on' it should keep up no problem. When in close you can get some great shots, jowels bouncing, tongue lolling, ears all over the place, often all feet off the ground.

Ted.
 
You will need something for him to run for. Mine like to play fetch and 'chase me', it's easiest to get them while they are returning the object. As a pet owner, I like the shots where I can see their faces, too, so returning something works well. You have to be fast, tossing something and then get the camera in position quickly. Having a partner to do the tossing would help considerably.

Here are a couple of examples, you can see why I like 'fetch' better -

Fetch:





Chase me:





--
Theresa Kelly
http://theresak.smugmug.com/
Oly E-300, FL-36, 14-45, 40-150, 50-200

 
Dogs will only run for so long. You won't have a lot of time to practice your technique. Once the dog calls it quits, you aren't going to get any great shots no matter how good the incentive.
--
Theresa Kelly
http://theresak.smugmug.com/
Oly E-300, FL-36, 14-45, 40-150, 50-200

 
Maybe with little dogs, but fast hunting dogs? All day long I suspect.

My ones only small, but half border collie, half blue healer. I get bored long before she does! I agree about the assistant with some kind of toy to fetch, I tend to go away, then get item thrown toward me. That way the dog is in full flight, not ambling back.

 
Thank for the tips. The owner of this dogs going to be present and she can control them and she can predict in what direction they will run. I am planning to get some practice shooting cars before I go. :-))

--
Best regards,
Alex H.
Web: http://alexphotostudio.smugmug.com
 
Maybe with little dogs, but fast hunting dogs? All day long I suspect.
We have a boxer, they stay puppies for years, then turn into middle aged dogs overnight. Ours is five and when he's out of gas, he's done. Of course, playing with Riley does wear them both down.
--
Theresa Kelly
http://theresak.smugmug.com/
Oly E-300, FL-36, 14-45, 40-150, 50-200

 
One thing I found out after taking a lot of shots for fun in the park, was that I had to use much higher shutter speeds for hairy dogs to avoid their fur turning into mush in the final product, because as they jump it tends to "flow" fast in all directions. Maybe it looks better when they just run, I don't know. Just something to keep in mind.

For example, with this dog everything I took below 1/400 didn't look right. The picture below was taken at 1/400 (excuse the composition, I was just trying my hand at it):



I am not sure about IS. Looks to me that it could impede your panning movement.

--
-wotevah
 
Hugely challenging, hugely rewarding...
Two different approaches:

SURF'S UP!!



7.5fps on an old Minolta D7i.
(Planned. Frighteningly fast and you don't get re-takes).

3YRS LATER - STILL FLAT OUT!



(100%crop) Konica-Minolta Maxxum 5D
1/2000s f/11.0 at 70.0mm iso800
Single shot and Continuous Autofocus on a Konica Minolta 5D

Angel's 3 years older now and needs to get all the air she can for a sprint like this. (Not planned - she just decided to run on the beach today and the camera had to grab the shot almost instantly hence the high ISO and shutter speed. Much more challenging with dog running towards me though she isn't so fast these days.)

You'll have to get to know the dog and how it reacts; also get to know the owner and what things they're looking for (what impresses/what doesn't)

--
John.
Imagination knows no boundaries...

 
I don't think hairy dogs are your problem. The only crisp parts of this image is the dog's hair. This image suffers from motion blur -- even the frisbee and dog's feet are blurred, and they're not hairy. I'd suggest a higher ISO to bump up your shutter speed a little higher, and fix a location and wait for dog to jump rather than panning. What focal length was this lens?

Chris
One thing I found out after taking a lot of shots for fun in the
park, was that I had to use much higher shutter speeds for hairy
dogs to avoid their fur turning into mush in the final product,
because as they jump it tends to "flow" fast in all directions.
Maybe it looks better when they just run, I don't know. Just
something to keep in mind.

For example, with this dog everything I took below 1/400 didn't
look right. The picture below was taken at 1/400 (excuse the
composition, I was just trying my hand at it):
 
Yep, shoulda used higher shutter but I didn't realize until I got home and look at them on the LCD. Actually this was the gist of the information I was relaying, that otherwise good shots may get ruined by the lack of hair definition due to low shutter.

The hind legs and the frisbee were probably moving faster because of the jump moment, but the rest of the blur I think it's just OOF areas, as even with my smaller sensor, at that focal length the DOF tends to be quite narrow.

I cropped the pic and sharpened a bit, see if looks any better. I know it's not all that great but it was to illustrate the point. The other dogs that were not hairy, came out okay at lower shutter but I deleted them because the poses weren't good, so I can't show anything for comparsion.

The focal length on this one looks like it was 385mm equiv with IS on. Not the best but I was lazy to move from my shade spot.

--
-wotevah
I don't think hairy dogs are your problem. The only crisp parts of
this image is the dog's hair. This image suffers from motion blur
-- even the frisbee and dog's feet are blurred, and they're not
hairy. I'd suggest a higher ISO to bump up your shutter speed a
little higher, and fix a location and wait for dog to jump rather
than panning. What focal length was this lens?

Chris
 
thank you for the pictures, this is something I am planning to shoot.
I do own the owner and I am discussing all requirements with her.

The only issue I have right now that the dogs need to be in a fenced yard otherwise they will run away. The yard gets crowded during the day. We decided to do this in early morning, but at 8 am it's not so bright these days.

--
Best regards,
Alex H.
Web: http://alexphotostudio.smugmug.com
 

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