D2x and discipline for sharp images

[jfenton]

Doesn't exactly work real swell.....nor with race cars or anything else moving for that matter.

As Nikon touted the HSC mode as being wonderful for sports phtographers, something tells me that they didn't intend for us to have to use MLU for these types of shots.
--
Jim
D2X Shooter

 

[Zane Paxton]

I purchased "The Sharpest Image", which reports on a very detailed
set of tests done to determine the effect of various techniques and
gear on achieving critically sharp images. I found it quite
worthwhile. My images are sharper now.

http://www.diglloyd.com/diglloyd/infos/TheSharpestImage/TheSharpestImage-info.html

I ordered it to find out; I'll let you know

--
Zane
http://www.pbase.com/devonshire

Nikon D2x & Fuji S2

 

[jdyates51]

Doesn't exactly work real swell.....nor with race cars or anything
else moving for that matter.

Exactly...harkens back to the days of 4x5 view and waist-level medium format cameras with the "sports finder" attached to allow the photog to frame the subject as it drove/galloped/ran past.

As Nikon touted the HSC mode as being wonderful for sports
phtographers, something tells me that they didn't intend for us to
have to use MLU for these types of shots.

Hmmm...wonder if Nikon would consider delveloping a sports finder that would attach to the flash hot shoe and when connected would automatically put the camera into MLU...and then send all D2x owners one gratis after registering the serial number. Chances???

--
Jim
D2X Shooter

John
--
http://www.pbase.com/jdyates51

 

[Peter Bendheim]

Yes, I'm sure there are some people with valid focus issues, I don't want to minimise the problems they have had, but my own experiences would relate to my own user error.

It would be a pity if this whole thing got blown out of all proportion into some emotional thing which damaged the reputation of this excellent flagship camera.

12MP is hard to handle, and in my own case any focus issues have been related to camera movement. I don't do measurebatory tests, though, I just take pictures and usually ones in the field that are all handheld. When I'm not in a rigid frame of mind I do get issues..I've just taken to using ISO200 to get a bit more shutter speed which delivers great results. But I can get pretty poor results too if I'm not steady at ISO100 in the field.

Interestingly, I've noticed that the extreme right of my images are bit OOF with the 17-55mm even when focused on centre and not with other lenses. There must be some sort of lens QC issue which is evident at that resolution but it's not significant.

I think the camera requires discipline and excellent technique. That doesn't make it a camera with issues, however, it makes technique all the more impoertant, just as it should be.

Again not to minimise those who have had issues, but to hope that this doesn't become the sort of emotional issue it was with the D70 (backfocus), or the D100 (remember the soft images issues) the 10D (also focus) and to some extent the 20D.

It seems to me with every new DSLR there is a plethora of emotional stuff, that hopefully and usually disappears with time.

--
Peter Bendheim
http://www.imagessouthafrica.co.za

 

[Bernard Languillier]

Jim,

On the other hand, the shutter speed you'll need to use to shoot sports or birds should be fast enough that hand shake will become a lot less of an issue, won't it?

Regards,
Bernard

 

[Andy Warren]

Re Mirror lock up - How do you use this function via the menu? According to the manuall (page 211) this function is only available when EH6 is attached!

I would like a time delayed shutter release after mirror lock up.

 

[Zane Paxton]

Re Mirror lock up - How do you use this function via the menu?
According to the manuall (page 211) this function is only available
when EH6 is attached!

I would like a time delayed shutter release after mirror lock up.

I was thinking the same thing until further manual reading indicated that you turn the upper left top dial (the one for continuous shooting) and the last setting is the "M-up" setting.

The first shutter trip locks it up (notice how you can't see through the viewfinder) and the second shutter actuation trips the shutter.

Apparently, the second way of doing this is by manipulating the timer release menu settings; but that can only delay the time between the M-up and the shutter release by 0.4 seconds. Apparently, some tripods will require 2.5 seconds to quit shaking before you should optimally trip the shutter (that's for a Gitzo 1228 CF like mine with a 200mm zoom on it).

Cheers,

Zane
http://www.pbase.com/devonshire

Nikon D2x & Fuji S2

 

[PeterRH]

Turn the dial to mirror lock-up as you say. Compose the pic and press the shutter the first time.

Then....do nothing. After 30 secs the release will trip anyway as a default, so you get a timed release with MLU.

Another one up for Thom's great book.

--
http://peterrh.smugmug.com

 

[robbfromstoke]

Re Mirror lock up - How do you use this function via the menu? According > to the manuall (page 211) this function is only available when EH6 is > attached!
I would like a time delayed shutter release after mirror lock up.

heyho

that´s possible via custom function D3!!!

Just enable it and the D2X will rise up the mirror and after a short ( i don´t know the exact time) the picture will be taken!

Take care

Robert

 

[robbfromstoke]

i forgot

this D3 enables that you don´t have to press twice...

so it´s a neat function!

take care

Robert

 

[RAL131504]

If small pixel size made it hard to get good sharp pictures without super technique, how could the average joe out there with his 8mp wonder with a sensor 1/4 the size of d2x get a recognizable image at all.

 

[robbfromstoke]

For example

D2X + ol dirty Nikon AF300 F4 -> sharp as Hell
D2X + Nikon AF 85 1.8D -> sharp as above
D2X + Nikon AF 50 1.8D -> sharp under definite circumstances
D2X + Sigma AF 18-200 -> sharp as a walkaround lens for 299€ can be

D2X + Sigma AF 12-14 -> soft if you don´t use Mirror Lock Up and a tripod or very high shutter (what i havn´t checked completly yet...)
D2X + Simg AF 24-70 2.8 DF -> sharp (so will the Nikon AF 28-70..)

so, i think, 1/focal length =2xshutter is a good start

For really sharp pictures use tripod and/or MLU

Look at Thom´s book!

And hell, use good glass on this baby!!!

Take care

hoped i helped

Robert

 

[Zane Paxton]

If small pixel size made it hard to get good sharp pictures without
super technique, how could the average joe out there with his 8mp
wonder with a sensor 1/4 the size of d2x get a recognizable image
at all.

Because most of the point and shoot cameras max out at f/8; a good example is the Sony F717.
--
Zane
http://www.pbase.com/devonshire

Nikon D2x & Fuji S2

 

[jhein01]

I would emphasize to turn VR off while using a tripod . . .

 

[DPFranz]

But useful nonetheless, for when I'm too lazy to get out the remote.
--
Dana Paul Franz
[email protected]
http://dfranz.smugmug.com

'You are the master of the unspoken word; once it is out of your mouth, you are the slave.'

 

[PeterRH]

n/t

 

[dchphoto]

I have done over 300 weddings. My MO is to use an f100 camera with 24-85 lens set at f4.5 and use the sb800 at ttl. Shutter speed is at 90th of a sec. All the images are tack sharp. Even the ones of them running out the door with lots of movement shot at 85mm. A wedding photojournalist can't use mlu and do his job. And 2x focal length shutterspeed cuts too much ambient light from the background.

 

[glacierpete]

.....and point of shoot cameras don't have any vibration from a mirror.

Hope we see a mf sized digital rangefinder camera one day.

 

[rjbc]

I totally agree, the D2x is the most "sensitive" to camera-shake body I have ever used, I get the same inconsistent results. 1/2x focal length is a must for this camera.

 

[Frank Vigil]

Thank you Zane, I for one am looking forwar to your thoughts on his paper. Price seems a bit steep to me for buying what essentially is a "pig in a poke" (no disrespect intended, just not familar with his papers).

Frank

I purchased "The Sharpest Image", which reports on a very detailed
set of tests done to determine the effect of various techniques and
gear on achieving critically sharp images. I found it quite
worthwhile. My images are sharper now.

http://www.diglloyd.com/diglloyd/infos/TheSharpestImage/TheSharpestImage-info.html

I ordered it to find out; I'll let you know

--
Zane
http://www.pbase.com/devonshire

Nikon D2x & Fuji S2

--
Whimsy is salvation for a life taken too seriously.
http://www.pbase.com/frankvigil