S3 pro studio flash sync problem

[Etienne R. Werner]

Hi all,

I have recently noticed that when in studio with the S3 and studio flashes, using 180th of a sec, I am seeing that the top of the pix (horizontal) is very dark. If I change to 125th of a sec , this problem is no longer there. This, I believe, would indicate a sync problem. Is the 180th only available for hotshoe flash or does my camera have a problem? Using 125th in studio is not really a problem but am just interested to know. FYI I am using a radio controlled triggering device which may cause a delay..

Many thanks nd regards,

Etienne Werner

 

[Radu Grozescu]

FYI I am using a radio
controlled triggering device which may cause a delay..

Is that a Multiblitz radio device ???

If yes, be happy, I get reliable sync only at 1/60

To find out if the camerais causing problems just use the cable for sync and you will know for sure. I bet the camera is fine.

Radu Grozescu

http://www.RaduGrozescu.com
Corporate & Editorial Photography

 

[Etienne R. Werner]

Thanks Radu. I will try.
No, I am using a very cheap radio device from falconeyes.

Kind regards,

Etienne

FYI I am using a radio
controlled triggering device which may cause a delay..

Is that a Multiblitz radio device ???

If yes, be happy, I get reliable sync only at 1/60

To find out if the camerais causing problems just use the cable for
sync and you will know for sure. I bet the camera is fine.

Radu Grozescu

http://www.RaduGrozescu.com
Corporate & Editorial Photography

 

[Anthony32599]

I seem to recall a Thom Hogan post about the S2 shutter (which is probably identical to the S3 shutter) to the effect that the shutter accuracy is marginal at 1/180 and that in some instances, it's off enough to cause the shutter cut-off effect you're seeing.

At 1/125, because of the smaller sensor size, it doesn't show up.

To determine if you have a sync problem or if it's a problem with your radio slave delay, I'd try this:

1) take a picture with one of your studio lights connected directly via the PC connector at 1/180. See if the dark part is still there.

2) connect up the radio, take another pic. Does it look like the first one?

If you see the dark part in both photos, I'd have the camera adjusted. If it's only in the the second photo, it's your radio system and not the camera.

Anthony

Hi all,

I have recently noticed that when in studio with the S3 and studio
flashes, using 180th of a sec, I am seeing that the top of the pix
(horizontal) is very dark. If I change to 125th of a sec , this
problem is no longer there. This, I believe, would indicate a sync
problem. Is the 180th only available for hotshoe flash or does my
camera have a problem? Using 125th in studio is not really a
problem but am just interested to know. FYI I am using a radio
controlled triggering device which may cause a delay..

Many thanks nd regards,

Etienne Werner

 

[jean bernier]

Kind regards,

Etienne

FYI I am using a radio
controlled triggering device which may cause a delay..

Is that a Multiblitz radio device ???

If yes, be happy, I get reliable sync only at 1/60

To find out if the camerais causing problems just use the cable for
sync and you will know for sure. I bet the camera is fine.

Radu Grozescu

http://www.RaduGrozescu.com
Corporate & Editorial Photography

--
Jean Bernier

You're the first I know of who reports this...the S2 is based on the same nikon n-80, and while the official sync speed for the s2 is 1/125, many used 1/180 in certain conditions such as fill flash in daylight where the partial obscuring, while definetely there, was not readily noticeable, since the flash did not cover most of the background.

Studio photography on seamless background is another story...but now the s3 official sync speed is 1/180...try strobes with with cable connection and compare, but most likely, the 1/180 sync speed is optimistic...your input will be valuable to other members.JB

 

[jan]

saw the samething you have been describing Etienne.

The things I've been trying are:

radiotransmitter on hotshoe: Iso 100 F5.6 (metering with Minolta autometer IVF) and take a shot with 125 and 180 sec. In the last situation, you see a dark band in uppersite of the picture! When you use yhe pc-sync (got wired) then you can use 180 sec and get a good picture, at least I've got! When I'm correct this was the same as with the S2

with kind regards,

Jan

http://jamonadap.nl

 

[Chris Butler]

An old rule-of-thumb for studio flash is to stick to 1/125th and slower shutter speeds. Some studio strobes don't quench quickly at or near full power, so your camera's shutter curtain may have partially descended while the strobe was still firing, causing the upper portion of the frame to be a little darker.

If the upper portion is completely black, then you probably have a camera-based sync problem.

Hope that helps,

Chris Butler

 

[jean bernier]

An old rule-of-thumb for studio flash is to stick to 1/125th and
slower shutter speeds. Some studio strobes don't quench quickly at
or near full power, so your camera's shutter curtain may have
partially descended while the strobe was still firing, causing the
upper portion of the frame to be a little darker.

If the upper portion is completely black, then you probably have a
camera-based sync problem.

Hope that helps,

Chris Butler

--
Jean Bernier

This is true for high power studio flash: the higher the w/s, usually the longer the flash duration, sometimes in the order of 1/100 of a sec for 2000/3000w/s flashes. What happens is the flash triggers as soon as the shutter is fully open, but if the shutter is closed while the flash is still illuminating although on it's descending slope, then some uneveness is recorded, most apparent with focal plane (less disturbing with leaf shutters).

Flash bursts cannot be represented as a square wave, but rather as a hump with two smooth slopes.

 

[amcdonald]

I tried a remote control triggering device and its the only time my S3 has had exposure problems!

I metered off a flash meter, set my S3 to manual at 1/125 th a second and whatever the flash meter gave me at 1/125th and it underposed between 1-1 1/2 stops all the time.

No problems with SB-80 or Sb-800 on camera flash or metering with natural light.

Never thought about these remote control devices causing havoc, I'd assumed after the event that the extended dynamic range might be the metering culprit.