W1/P100 blurred poll: please tell your story!

Set the ISO to 200 and use it in full auto mode.

As much as I'd love to tweak my pictures in manual mode this camera
was purchased so that my wife could grab it and shoot when the kids
are having a moment, or to hand it to someone in a park to take a
picture of us etc. So manual adjustments are not an option.

I'm going to try ISO200 to see if that works. All in all I've been
pretty happy but there ARE blurry pictures which tend to be under
zoomed conditions in auto mode.
How do you set the ISO to 200 and use it in full auto mode at the
same time? There are no settings for ISO in auto mode. ?
 
Set the ISO to 200 and use it in full auto mode.

As much as I'd love to tweak my pictures in manual mode this camera
was purchased so that my wife could grab it and shoot when the kids
are having a moment, or to hand it to someone in a park to take a
picture of us etc. So manual adjustments are not an option.

I'm going to try ISO200 to see if that works. All in all I've been
pretty happy but there ARE blurry pictures which tend to be under
zoomed conditions in auto mode.
How do you set the ISO to 200 and use it in full auto mode at the
same time? There are no settings for ISO in auto mode. ?

You can't. You have to use it in P mode or something else.
 
Hi Andrei,

Your reply shows that in low-light cases you switch to
manual mode. I think the Full auto algorithm can handle
higher ISOs the same way we do in manual mode. In many
cases (fast response) and for many users, most photos will
be taken in Full auto mode and as you say, a sharp, under exposed
(and maybe even a little noisy) pic can be improved and can
still be enjoyed. A blurry one (if not intended to be) is irritating.

Thanks,

EAS
I do not feel that all is correct in this review:
  • In my experience (P100), the camera selects a range of ISO values
depending on the lighting conditions / shutter speed. I think I
have seen 100, 120, 160, 320 and 360 (max).

A lot has been set about Auto vs. P vs. M. I think it is not too
bad on full auto, that is until one faces 1/40 and below (good
thing is you can see it in auto mode). Then I switch to M and do
adjustments. One word of warning about P mode. Be careful to use it
as replacement for full auto without careful attention to the
shutter speed. In full auto, shutter speed will NOT go slower than
1/8, and ISO will be upped earlier (!). In P mode, shutter speed
goes as slow as 1 sec, and ISO will not be boosted (automatically,
it is) until slower shutter speeds.

My recommendations:
  • Shoot on auto if you like point and shoot, but pay attention to
the shutter speed (bottom of the screen). Also, know your limit - I
can now manage as slow as 1/30 while using viewfinder.
  • Use scene modes -at least beach and panoramic work OK in my
experience
  • If shutter speed gets too slow, switch to M and play with ISO /
shutter speed. Slightly under-exposed picture can be easily
improved in Photoshop, the blurry image is difficult to improve.
  • Speculation: The camera may have difficulty in focusing on moving
object (is it usual?) It can be seen in movie mode, and may be some
blurry shots are explained by this. Center focus appears to help
here, according to other posts (not personal experience).
  • Be aware about colour balance. WB is sometimes fooled in
multi-metering mode, spot metering remedies the situation.
  • One thing I miss is exposure braketing. Why is it not here?
Happy shooting,
Andrei
Hi,

Look at this link (if you can read german):

http://www.digitalkamera.de/Info/News/22/89.htm

I've used an auto translator and the website claims the following
regarding blurring (Some terms were not translated from german):

"...Zaround topic blurring of some the digitalkamera.de visitor,
which possess already a DSC-W1/12 or - in many points something
similar - the DSC-P100/120, come statements about sharpness lacking
with the pictures, which made them with their camera. The
photographs of the DSC-W1/12 are "soft" due to the reserved
camera-internal scharfzeichnung (see section "image quality")
anyway something, but with more exact view of the pictures the
Unschaerfe emerges often than direct consequence of blurring. This
provokes the camera in two different regard: First of all the
DSC-W1/12 seems to know only two stages during the automatic
attitude of the luminous sensivity stages (ISO 100 and ISO 320) and
switches to all weariness only with nearly total darkness on the
higher stage. That may be perhaps in the sense of the intoxication
liberty a wise decision of Sony. But above all inexperienced
photographers, whom Sony wants to actually address with the
DSC-W1/12, ignore gladly the blurring warning symbol on the LC
screen and photograph then with exposure times, which presuppose at
least a calm hand. (or better a stand) one needs if one switched
lightning on. Because Sony has the lightning synchronous time in
the mechanism mode on approx.. 1/40 second fixed, what u. And to
blurring to lead can. Also here Sony wanted to obviously do the
good one too much, because a relatively long lightning synchronous
time of 1/40 s is helpful to the picture tendency (with shorter
synchronous times lightning "kills" according to experience the
natural lighting effect),
however increases the blurring risk and/or the risk of smearing
effects. Here one can ask oneself whether the attitudes of the
DSC-W1/12 do not stand with the "all around Sorglos" mentality of
many a risers in the conflict. Who would like to get always sharp
pictures anyhow also under weak lighting conditions, should
absolutely pay attention if necessary to the blurring warning
symbol and the necessary precaution to meet (to keep calm, stand
use, synchronous time shorten or sensitivity stage raise camera)."

I hope zis kan explain ze problem!
 
ANOTHER thing I just noticed (P120)...

I noticed my camera was having trouble focusing in low lighting. It was taking time in a darkened office, and the focus type symbol would flash whilst the focus zones disappeared. I read the manual again to discover what this meant.

With the AF Illuminator set to auto, the camera will usually try to use it in low lighting. It then focuses on the illumination, OVERIDING the spot or multi-focus setting. I set the AF illuminator to OFF and the camera focuses on objects with less trouble and more speed. The test images I took seemed much clearer to me as well.

My theory is that the AF Assist makes the focusing worse unless the camera actually needs to use it. I have no time to test now, but I will leave the AF Illuminator off and see how the pictures turn out over the next few days.
 
Interesting, thanks for bringing this up. Let us know how it works out for you. The lack of an AF illuminator on my last camera was one of the things I hated about it -- it absolutely could not lock focus on anything in even moderately low light conditions. I've been pretty successful with my W1 so far by either going into P mode and forcing ISO to 200 or 400, going into M and setting the shutter/aperture myself, and/or using the spot focus. I've left the AF lamp to auto the whole time, and assumed it would result in a function roughly equivalent to spot focus.
ANOTHER thing I just noticed (P120)...

I noticed my camera was having trouble focusing in low lighting. It
was taking time in a darkened office, and the focus type symbol
would flash whilst the focus zones disappeared. I read the manual
again to discover what this meant.

With the AF Illuminator set to auto, the camera will usually try to
use it in low lighting. It then focuses on the illumination,
OVERIDING the spot or multi-focus setting. I set the AF illuminator
to OFF and the camera focuses on objects with less trouble and more
speed. The test images I took seemed much clearer to me as well.

My theory is that the AF Assist makes the focusing worse unless the
camera actually needs to use it. I have no time to test now, but I
will leave the AF Illuminator off and see how the pictures turn out
over the next few days.
 
My first W1 was bad. I was getting at least 20% out of focus shots with it. I replaced it and the new one works great except of course for the slow shutter with the flash on. Why they can't pull their heads out long enough to see what they are doing is a mistery to me.

Hal
 
-Type of camera: DSC-W1/12 or DSC-P100/120
P120 purchased in London England from ASK Electronics (good shop)
-Estimated camera temperature when blurred pictures occur: cold
(30°C), in between, or any temperature?
Good question! Unsure, but it has been fairly warm, but not extremely hot. IE, 21 (mid 70s)
-Subject's distance when most blurred pics happen: near (
far, any?
Portraits are a disaster. The subject is often blurred.

However, noise reduction makes all of the image slightly blurred.

Apple's iPhoto makes things worse by blurring ALL images and the only way to unblur them is to adjust the Brightness/Contrast controls, then return them to default. However, this is noting to do with the sony (effects any images in iPhoto), and I am only mentioning this so people do not judge the Sony W1/P100 just because iPhoto slightly blurrs their images. My P120 does it too, and iPhoto simply makes it worse, but it also blurrs my older Sony f717 images which were otherwise lovely and sharp.
-Zoom setting to get blurr: wide, tele, any?
Has little to do with zoom setting.
-Finally, estimated percentage of blurred pics you get under the
above described worst conditions: 20, 50, 80%?
All pictures are slightly blurred (I use photoshop to test not iPhoto) and about 20% are very blurred.

I must say that other than the blurring problem (which defeats what I am about to say), the P120 is well made, easy to use, fast, compact and otherwise perfect. But photography is all about capturing the moment. With the P120 I own, this is not possible as such pictures are blurred. The 'it's a small camera' issue doesn't wash. I owned a Sony P51 (2mp) and every shot was sharp, as per all other digicams (and 35mm) compact cameras I have owned. This is a W1/P100 series issue!

I rest my case

Sony? What's the plan?
 
Sounds like my first W1...which seemed to frequently short-focus. I exchanged it and the new one is fine. Sony seems to have had some manufacturing issues with this camera. See if your dealer will give you a new one. If cameras come back, Sony will get the message.

Having said that, I am now pleased with camera.
-Type of camera: DSC-W1/12 or DSC-P100/120
P120 purchased in London England from ASK Electronics (good shop)
-Estimated camera temperature when blurred pictures occur: cold
(30°C), in between, or any temperature?
Good question! Unsure, but it has been fairly warm, but not
extremely hot. IE, 21 (mid 70s)
-Subject's distance when most blurred pics happen: near (
far, any?
Portraits are a disaster. The subject is often blurred.

However, noise reduction makes all of the image slightly blurred.

Apple's iPhoto makes things worse by blurring ALL images and the
only way to unblur them is to adjust the Brightness/Contrast
controls, then return them to default. However, this is noting to
do with the sony (effects any images in iPhoto), and I am only
mentioning this so people do not judge the Sony W1/P100 just
because iPhoto slightly blurrs their images. My P120 does it too,
and iPhoto simply makes it worse, but it also blurrs my older Sony
f717 images which were otherwise lovely and sharp.
-Zoom setting to get blurr: wide, tele, any?
Has little to do with zoom setting.
-Finally, estimated percentage of blurred pics you get under the
above described worst conditions: 20, 50, 80%?
All pictures are slightly blurred (I use photoshop to test not
iPhoto) and about 20% are very blurred.

I must say that other than the blurring problem (which defeats what
I am about to say), the P120 is well made, easy to use, fast,
compact and otherwise perfect. But photography is all about
capturing the moment. With the P120 I own, this is not possible as
such pictures are blurred. The 'it's a small camera' issue doesn't
wash. I owned a Sony P51 (2mp) and every shot was sharp, as per all
other digicams (and 35mm) compact cameras I have owned. This is a
W1/P100 series issue!

I rest my case

Sony? What's the plan?
 
Hello dear STF members

Since I read a lot about blurred pics with W1/P100, I would like to
try and better understand under which circumstances this mostly
occurs. Doing statistics in other words.

If you are a lucky W1/P100 owner getting blurred pics that you are
pretty sure to be lens or AF related (not due to shake/long
exposure), would you be so nice and give a short reply to this post
answering these few questions:

-Type of camera: DSC-W1/12 or DSC-P100/120

-Estimated camera temperature when blurred pictures occur: cold
(30°C), in between, or any temperature?

-Subject's distance when most blurred pics happen: near (
far, any?

-Zoom setting to get blurr: wide, tele, any?

-Finally, estimated percentage of blurred pics you get under the
above described worst conditions: 20, 50, 80%?

Thank you for spending a minute telling your observations!

fr
--
DSC-V1, long exposures (night/astro), remote control by computer
(RM-VD1 modified)
 
I do not have blurry pics with my W1. Is it possible that some W1's are defective? Could this be a hardware issue? I also own a 717 and the pics are equal in every way. My only problem with the W1 is not having more manual controls.
 
I couldn't agree more! I have NEVER had a problem with blurriness unless I shook....and I knew when I did. It's a small, lightweight camera.....it's going to be susceptible to shaking. I usually use a tripod anyway, but using handheld it has always performed wonderfully in this area.

My problems have been, ironically, with overexposure......not under like the consensus seems to be. Other than that, I think this is the best point and shoot on the market.
 
And sometimes it doesn't matter what you do, but you're gonna get totally out of focus images if the camera's no good.

The first picture was shot manual at 1/125 and has nothing in focus in the picture. The second was very sharp and shot in P mode and camera chose 1/50. Shot seconds apart.





While some blurry shots may be due to camera shake it's important to diagnose it properly. I'd love to see samples of what people consider pictures ruined by shake.
My first W1 was bad. I was getting at least 20% out of focus shots
with it. I replaced it and the new one works great except of
course for the slow shutter with the flash on. Why they can't pull
their heads out long enough to see what they are doing is a mistery
to me.

Hal
--
  • Bob Redrock
http://www.pbase.com/plasma
 
I've had a few of these back-to-back oddities also. Are you using center or multi-focus? This camera is the little girl with the curl...when she's good, she's very good, when she's bad, she's awful.

The first almost looks like it was in macro.




While some blurry shots may be due to camera shake it's important
to diagnose it properly. I'd love to see samples of what people
consider pictures ruined by shake.
My first W1 was bad. I was getting at least 20% out of focus shots
with it. I replaced it and the new one works great except of
course for the slow shutter with the flash on. Why they can't pull
their heads out long enough to see what they are doing is a mistery
to me.

Hal
--
  • Bob Redrock
http://www.pbase.com/plasma
 
I'm pretty certain it wasn't on macro. I use center focus and spot metering for my shots. I also have set iso to 200. The problem with the blurry photo here is that you couldn't see that it was a stinker till viewed on the PC. It's not bad enough to notice on the camera LCD.

I had the camera in for service at a local shop and they took 10 pictures and found nothing wrong. I'm not getting that many bad ones lately (down to about 5%), but if it persists I guess I have to send it to Sony.
The first almost looks like it was in macro.




While some blurry shots may be due to camera shake it's important
to diagnose it properly. I'd love to see samples of what people
consider pictures ruined by shake.
My first W1 was bad. I was getting at least 20% out of focus shots
with it. I replaced it and the new one works great except of
course for the slow shutter with the flash on. Why they can't pull
their heads out long enough to see what they are doing is a mistery
to me.

Hal
--
  • Bob Redrock
http://www.pbase.com/plasma
--
  • Bob Redrock
http://www.pbase.com/plasma
 
Actually, 5% doesn't seem too bad. I can easily mess that much myself without help from Sony.

BTW- Keith1200 didn't get your joke on the other post yesterday, did he?




While some blurry shots may be due to camera shake it's important
to diagnose it properly. I'd love to see samples of what people
consider pictures ruined by shake.
My first W1 was bad. I was getting at least 20% out of focus shots
with it. I replaced it and the new one works great except of
course for the slow shutter with the flash on. Why they can't pull
their heads out long enough to see what they are doing is a mistery
to me.

Hal
--
  • Bob Redrock
http://www.pbase.com/plasma
 
I took eight similar pairs of pictures last night, each with and without AF assist. There was no tripod or any other settings change in P mode because I wanted to simulate normal hand-held use. I ensured that one of each pair used the assist - it was automatic on six shots but I had to recomposed the other two before it switched on. Each shot was allowed to focus before capture.

Without AF assist seven pictures were clear, whilst one focused on a background object, In fairness to the camera, I watched it do this and could have changed it. The same picture worked with AF assist though. One of the other seven AF assist picutes was not quite as clear as it's partner, and one was blurred. Six came out clear.

It's the blurred picture which I am interested in. I need to see if I can repeat the problem using a tripod so that I can eliminate hand shake. 1/40 with flash, f2.8, ISO 100, pattern metering and everything else was the same in both pictures. It looks as if the AF light illuminated a shiny and hard to focus on area. I can't tell from one picture, but it does make me wonder if this is a possible cause of out of focus exposures.

In all cases the focus was quicker without the AF Assist. I read somewhere that this camera focuses well in low light conditions without the AF Assit. I am going to leave it off and see what happens.

A point to note - the Exilim EX-Z30 uses a minimum of 1/60 with the flash, whilst the Sony sets 1/40. Why so different?
ANOTHER thing I just noticed (P120)...

I noticed my camera was having trouble focusing in low lighting. It
was taking time in a darkened office, and the focus type symbol
would flash whilst the focus zones disappeared. I read the manual
again to discover what this meant.

With the AF Illuminator set to auto, the camera will usually try to
use it in low lighting. It then focuses on the illumination,
OVERIDING the spot or multi-focus setting. I set the AF illuminator
to OFF and the camera focuses on objects with less trouble and more
speed. The test images I took seemed much clearer to me as well.

My theory is that the AF Assist makes the focusing worse unless the
camera actually needs to use it. I have no time to test now, but I
will leave the AF Illuminator off and see how the pictures turn out
over the next few days.
 
I read
somewhere that this camera focuses well in low light conditions
without the AF Assist.
It should do very well without the AF assist. I almost never use it. The only time I have used AF assist is 1 second at f2.8 at ISO 400 i.e. quite dark. Even then I cannot be sure I needed it on.

Keith.
 
You almost never use it and you never have blurred shots - maybe there is a link. You have it set to off usually, is that what you are saying?

I feel stupid to even suggest that the AF assist lamp is contributing to focus problems, but I should really try some tests on a tripod.
I read
somewhere that this camera focuses well in low light conditions
without the AF Assist.
It should do very well without the AF assist. I almost never use
it. The only time I have used AF assist is 1 second at f2.8 at ISO
400 i.e. quite dark. Even then I cannot be sure I needed it on.

Keith.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top